The Road to Diamond, Day 310: Journey to Pax

0

October 3, 2025, Split, Croatia- One of the key stops on this long journey through Europe is a meet-up with a long time online friend, in this seaside community. It isn’t hard to see why he is an avid booster of the place.

I found leaving Zagreb fairly easy, taking a tram for a short distance, then walking the rest of the way tot he Bus Terminal. The bus down to Split went through some lovely country.

Countryside between Zagreb and Split
There is already snow on top.
Glimpses of trapped inlets

.

A larger inlet, twenty Km from Split

It was a fairly uneventful ride, which suited me just fine. Tomorrow will be filled with Diocletian’s Palace, classic Croatian food, a nice little mountain hike, the company and the commentary of an old friend. Hotel Pax is a great break from start-up apartments and hostels, as joyful as they have been.

The Road to Diamond, Day 309: Silver at the End of a Dark Staircase

3

October 1, 2025, Zagreb- The two young men standing on the dark street corner were not at all menacing. Just two guys having come off work at a nearby nightclub. Seeing me trying to access a door code, they offered to call the building’s owner and find both the door code and the code for the key box that would get me into my room. (Start-ups like this in central Europe frequently have a building entry code and a key box. I found that out, too late, at the original venue in Vienna. Tonight was happily different.)

In the end, I had no luck finding a small memorial that was recommended to me by friends in Vienna. I have a Plan B to remedy that, next week. Vacating Radisson Red and getting to Vienna Hauptbanhof was not hard, though I had to book another train, as my quest for the memorial took longer than I thought it might. It was not hard to get on the second train, which was going through Budapest, instead of Graz. I had a nice seat, initially with one other person, a Hungarian man in his 40s. We exchanged views on a few matters of common import, before he was berated by a conductor for not having a proper ticket. At Gyor Station, a family of three and a woman in her 30s entered, and he exited, for Standage.

Fun part #2 took place at the station at which I planned to disembark. The conductor glanced quickly at my ticket and said that I should stay onboard, until the next station. Once we were underway again, something told him to look at my ticket again. To both of our chagrins, he had told me the wrong information! We got off at the second station, and he brought me to the Information Center. The lady in the info Center offered to put me on the same train, tomorrow evening. As that would have had a serious domino effect on my plans for visiting my friend in Split, Croatia and for the time I have scheduled to spend in Sarajevo and Srebrenica, Bosnia-Hercegovina, I asked her for information on getting to the International Bus Terminal. Budapest has an excellent tram system, so with the note in hand, I went to that terminal and got on a bus bound for Zagreb.

A few notes are in order: I have a Eurail Pass, good for a few more weeks, so the train snafus were minimal in cost. As for the Budapest train stations, there is Kelenfold, on the west side of town and Keleti, in the center. It was at Kelenfold, that my ticket said to switch to the Zagreb train. The conductor had me wait until Keleti. So, if you are ever taking a train and are going through Budapest, en route to somewhere south, mind the spelling of the station. Had I not already have made plans that were eight years in the making, it would have been a pleasure to spend a few days in Budapest. The lovely city will wait, until God knows when, but I am sure I will be back, at some point.

Here are a few scenes of my wanderings about Vienna.

Karlskirche, Karlsplatz, Vienna (above and below)
Statue of Johannes Brahms, Karlsplatz, Vienna
Wien River, central Vienna

In the evening, once truly underway from Budapest, the sight of the mighty Danube came into view.

Danube River, at Budapest

There would not be a train trip, without an attempt at a sunset photo. Here is a mysterious glow to the west of south Budapest.

Sunset near Budapest

As the evening winds down, I am in a comfortable little apartment, having not been put off by the “work in progress” as I entered, downstairs. This sort of thing is meant for those who can excuse a bit of dust and debris, before getting to a fine bit of silver upstairs: Alora Heart of Zagreb.

The Road to Diamond, Day 307: Auschwitz-Birkenau

0

September 30, 2025, Oswiecim, Poland Today would have been Penny’s 71st birthday. Each year since I first met her, including the fourteen years since her passing, the day always brings a special event, either Baha’i teaching or a visit of significance.

Entrance to Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum

Today, I had the opportunity to visit the sites of one of the darkest chapters in human history. Auschwitz and Birkenau were concentration camps, separated by 3 kilometers, but under the same commander: The infamous Rudolf Hoss (not to be confused with Deputy Fuhrer Rudolf Hess), implemented the use of Zyklon B, a pesticide that became the nerve agent which alone killed a million people. Hoss was tried, convicted and executed in Poland, in 1947. (Rudolf Hess, as is well-known, flew to Scotland, believing he could convince Scottish “opponents” of the War to hasten British withdrawal from World War II. The Scots were not amused, Hess was imprisoned and then transferred to Germany’s Spandau Prison, in 1947. He was the sole remaining prisoner there, when he committed suicide, in 1987, at age 93.)

My late father-in-law was a Jewish-American, served as a soldier in the final months of World War II, during which he was captured during the tail-end of the Battle of the Bulge, and was held in the POW camp at Berga, in eastern Germany. I have been to Berga and seen the V-2 Rocket Factory’s remains. Pop was sent to work the salt mines. When he was rescued by a unit of American soldiers, in June, 1945, he was nearly skeletal.

That was the fate of many, if not most, of the survivors of Auschwitz and Birkenau, as well. They numbered about 6200, out of over 1,100,000 who had been held in at the Auschwitz Complex. Jews, who Hitler and his henchmen wanted above all to exterminate, were the preponderance of victims. Men between the ages of 17-60 were made to work, usually until they were broken, physically and mentally. They were then executed. Women, children, the elderly and the infirm, including the mentally ill, were summarily gassed to death.

Besides the Jews, Romany, Russians, Poles, Czechs, Freemasons and the occasional Afro-Germans, were also sent to concentration camps, and executed by poison gas. Auschwitz and Birkenau were the two largest facilities for such hideous practices. in time, even Christian critics of Hitler found themselves in the gas chambers. Birkenau, being the larger camp, had 30 gas chambers. Auschwitz, with four sectors, had ten. As the Soviet forces closed in on Auschwitz, the fleeing German Army forced most of the remaining prisoners west, on a Death March to Germany and Austria. Thus did many die on their feet, though not as many as were gassed.

Here are five scenes that are here to remind us that the Holocaust was no Hologram.

“Barracks” # 1, Auschwitz
Torture House,, Auschwitz
Women and children victims, on their way to the gas chambers. (They had been told they were on their way to a glorious new life.)
Discarded children’s shoes and a father’s suitcase, with his son’s name written on it.
Hana Reiner would not let herself be forgotten. https://www.writeoutloud.net/public/blogentry.php?blogentryid=139212
The Nazis themselves destroyed this barracks, rather than allow it to be preserved by the Soviets and Poles,for what it had been,

I thought back to the early morning, when I boarded a train in Krakow, bound for the city of Oswiecim, (the Polish name which was translated into German as Auschwitz). A mentally disabled man chose to sit across from me. He was an Italian, who had little vocabulary, in any language. He knew “English” and “Deutsch”, as well as a few words in Italian and Spanish. While he was annoying to the young man sitting by the window and the well-dressed Italian man who sat across the aisle, I let him show me the soccer games on his phone. At the end of the one-hour trip, he cheerfully said “Grazie!” and went on his way.

That gentle man would not have had a chance to ride the rails, in Hitler’s Germany. He’d have ended up in the pile of corpses found by the Russians, or in one of the piles of ashes that were dumped in the Vistula River or behind the Subcommandant’s House at Birkenau. He can ride the rails, as he pleases, in today’s Europe, not being harmed and harming no one,

Auschwitz-Birkenau, and all places like it, are needed reminders of exactly what levels of depravity can come from a deluded pursuit of false perfection.

NEVER FORGET!

The Road to Diamond, Day 306: Overworked Treasure

0

September 29, 2025, Krakow- The guard was unequivocal: “No, this ticket is only for the tower. Cathedral is off limits.” I had read that Krakow, like Venice and Barcelona, was getting tired of the hordes of people streaming in and overwhelming the most popular sites. Here was very strong proof of the toll that being loved too much is taking on several places around the world, where each new face just wants one more selfie. Besides, the Cathedral is one of the world’s great religious art museums. I should have come here first.

I had already been in several historic sites in Krakow today, so not seeing Wawel Cathedral was not going to ruin my visit. The nearby castle had closed at 3, and the proprietors of Wawel complex are finding that the underground area is in need of a break from visitors. They put a cap on the number of people allowed down there, and had reached it, by the time I arrived.

I am determined, among other things, to be an ambassador for goodwill and to honour the work which people in the communities on my itinerary are doing, whether it is serving visitors or as part of the normal life of a community. The Wawel team is among those who have put up with a lot, especially in the travel explosion that has followed the 2020 Pandemic. I went with what the tired ticket clerk set for me-and indeed, there was nothing about going into the Cathedral. I walked around outside for several minutes, then left. It was getting towards evening, anyway.

The day started with my anticipated roommate finally showing up, at 7:20 a.m, after what sounded like an enervating train ride. I left him to get a good sleep, and had breakfast downstairs. The day outside began with a short walk from Meininger Hostel to Old Town Krakow. First stop was Corpus Christi Church, built on the orders of Polish King Kasimir III, in 1335. It is one of three impressive houses of worship in Old Town.

Corpus Christi Church, Kasimierz District of Krakow
Front of Corpus Christi Church, Kasimierz District, Krakow

The interior is meticulously maintained. There were a few ladies inside, engaged in their devotions, so I was careful in choosing places to share here. Kasimir III loved to showcase gold, so the most striking scenes of Corpus Christi are accented in the metal.

Interior of Corpus Christi Church, Old Town Krakow
Notice the light colours of the archways, contrasting with the darker wooden cabinets.
More gold, at the altar (above and below)
More of the golden altar
Monastery at Corpus Christi Church, Old Town Krakow. This was occupied by the Canons Regular of the Lateran, who King Kasimier had brought in from the older town of Klodzko.

I needed a little coffee break, so Green Times, just up the street from Corpus Christi, had a good organic brew.

Green Times Coffee House, Old Town Krakow

I didn’t need a hospital, but there is large one in Old Town.

Szipital Zakonu Bonifrarow SW Jana Grandego (Zakonu Hospital), Old Town Krakow

I came next to the divider and lifegiver: Beautiful Mother Vistula

Vistula River, Krakow

The fish look happy!

Vistula River, Krakow

An exercise yard for adults!

Public Park, near St. Rita’s Church, Old Town Krakow

The new part of town beckons.

Balon Krakow Widowky (Sightseeing Balloon of Krakow), across the Vistula
Church of St, Rita, Old Town Krakow

As Mass was being said, I did not go in.

Church of St, Michael the Archangel and St. Stanislaus, Old Town Krakow

This turned out to be my final church visit of the day. The structure was blessed, many times, by this man.

St. John Paul II
Interior, Church of St.Michael and St. Stanislaus, Old Town Krakow

Outside, there is a courtyard, where several bishops of the church are laid to rest and memorialized.

Courtyard Memorial Garden, Church of St. Michael and St. Stanislaus, Old Town Krakow

I came next to Rynek Glowny (Main Market Square), the heart of Old Town.

Rynek Glowny (Main Market Square), Old Town Krakow. Not a whole lot was going on today, it being Monday and a bit rainy.

After a bowl of oatmeal, at Krakow’s branch of Grain Cafe, I went back to Meininger and rested a bit. It was around three, that I got the urge to walk over to Wawek Castle. It was a pleasant walk of about 15 minutes. Here is a view of the castle, from the base of the hill.

Wawel Palace, Krakow

The place is an essential locus of Polish history, having been a fortress of the Vistulan tribe, as early as 800 A.D. It became the center of a Polish nation, in the Tenth Century. A castle was built in the heart of the earlier fortress, and several churches, those of St. Gereon, St. George, and another one of St,Michael, were built around the Cathedral. A large statue of a fire-breathing dragon is on the grounds, though I did not find it.

Vistula River, from the Tower, Wawel Palace

Here are a few photos of the fortress itself.

Watchtower, Wawel Royal Castle
View from Tower, Wawel Royal Castle, Krakow
View from tower, Wawel Royal Palace, Krakow

Once down from the Tower, and having been denied entry into the Cathedral, I at least got the outside of the edifice.

Wawel Cathedral, Krakow

Near the southeast area of the complex, the Great Wall safeguarded the place for a time, being eventually scaled by Swedish troops.

Wall around old town, Wawel Castle, Krakow

With that, I said farewell to Wawel Castle, and headed back to check on R and enjoy a restful evening, as tomorrow will not require an early departure, being an afternoon appointment at Auschwitz_Birkenau.

The Road to Diamond, Day 305: Standing Room Only

0

September 28, 2025, Krakow– “Where do I get the train to Krakow?”, I asked a conductor, after getting off the train that had brought me from Berlin to Poznan, in western Poland. “Go downstairs to Platform 10.”, was all she said. Many European train platforms have two tracks, which go in directions opposite each other. This reduces the need for multiple platforms, each with a track that only goes one way. I knew this, but looking at my watch, seeing it was close to departure for the Krakow train and seeing a train that lots of people were getting off and on, I put two and two together and got…five.

When I got to the cabin which had my seat number, I found it was occupied by a family of four, with the younger son in “my” seat. I went out of the cabin and was met by an older Polish woman, who “knew” that was my seat “by rights”. We got underway, with me in standage, where I was chatted up by a couple, who were happy that someone from Arizona was visiting Poland. The husband asked to look at my ticket, and gasped. “You go north now, instead of south! You must get off at next station, and catch train back to Poznan, then good luck getting to Krakow!” That explained the young boy sitting in his rightful seat.

I got off at the next station, reversed course, got on a Krakow-bound train from Poznan, and took my place among university students and poorer older adults, in Standage, all the way to Krakow, five hours south. Of course, I didn’t stand the whole way. I had my rolling suitcase, and a relatively clean section of floor on which to sit. When people needed to get on or off, at the ensuing stations, we in Standage had to make room for them. This made a few of the students quite surly-but surely they know this is part of the deal. Most, though, seemed concerned for one another, on a couple of occasions consoling those who were openly distraught. Not speaking Polish,I kept my mouth shut, the whole way, and was “welcomed” by the conductors, none of whom were concerned with why I was there.

I got to Krakow around 11 p.m. and caught a taxi to Meininger Hostel, part of a chain of hotels and hostels across central Europe. It is a lovely establishment, and while the city itself is rather tired of mass tourism, I was cheerfully welcomed by those I encountered on the street and at the hostel. I had the room to myself for the night, as the young man who was to be my roommate had his own tale of train woe and would not be arriving until early tomorrow morning. Thus, another decent end was found, to a strange day.

Meininger Hostel (above and below)

The Road to Diamond, Day 303: The (Rail)Road to Berlin

4

September 26, 2025, Berlin- “Well now, that is certainly a rude awakening”, the burly leader of a group of German tourists huffed, as the news came over the loudspeaker that one of the cars on our train to Hamburg, from Kolding, DK, had broken down and that those of us (including me) who were scheduled to be on that train would now either have to ride in Standage or wait for a replacement car. He gathered the group, and held a brief consultation, while looking at me. A minute later, he told me that, as one of their group had dropped out of the trip, there was a seat in their cabin, and I was welcome to take it.

It turned out to be a most pleasant two hours. I even was offered, and accepted the no-show’s sandwich, which had been purchased, freshly made, from a delicatessen in the Aarhus area, earlier in the morning. Chicken salad with bacon is a favourite in Denmark and Germany. It was divine.

The day had started with my walking the .9 mile from Roberta’s Society Hostel to Aarhus Train Station. The challenge came onboard, when I had to remember how to call up the Rail Planner application on my phone, which contained my actual ticket to Berlin, with the seat reservations only supplementary. The conductor, at one point, wanted to see a QR code on the RP page, but was overruled by her supervisor, who saw that as a waste of time. Good thing, as Rail Planner doesn’t provide QR Codes for its Rail Pass system.

With that behind me, one of my seat mates on the first leg (Aarhus to Kolding) opined that she had never heard of a QR code for a train ticket. She was Gen Z, so that pretty much settled the matter. Kids can pretty much do any transaction on a phone that can be done.

Once in Hamburg, I bid farewell to the German tour group and settled in for a smooth, non-eventful final leg to Berlin Hauptbanhof (Central Station). It took my usual fussing at Spectrum’s stingy Internet service (non-existent outside North America) and scrambling to find a shop or cafe whose WiFi I could use to get directions to St. Christopher’s Hostel from Central Station, over a period of thirty-five minutes, before I settled on the S-bahn (Streetcars). I ended up at Alexanderplatz, where a Tourist Office worker gave me directions for walking the rest of the way. I found the hostel, which has a bar and grill attached, in short order (no pun intended, especially as John Belushi would have either groaned or thrown something at me). St,. Christopher’s and Belushi’s are teamed up in various cities around Europe. Chain hostels, including Generator (my Copenhagen digs), are quite the rage.

The Berlin hostel is in an old building, so it has its challenges, but I like the vibe here. The Rugby championships and various soccer matches are on the TV screens, so it wouldn’t be a dull 1 1/2 days, even if I opted to sit in the hostel all day. That is not happening. I will be out and about, exploring Berlin’s oldest neighbourhood and possibly seeking out remnants of the Berlin Wall-a reminder of what happens to attempts to separate people on artificial grounds.

Here’s the hostel.

St, Christopher’s Inn, Berlin

The Road to Diamond, Day 302: Denmark’s Second City

3

September 25, 2025, Aarhus- The gathering was much larger than I had anticipated-and the kitchen manager apologetically told me there was no more room in the dining area during the Communal Dining session. I had come here to see how Danes manage their Slow Food movement.

Staying for the presentation afterward, all in Danish, of course, but worth watching for the dynamics, I enjoyed Miso Lasagna, with the healthful Japanese paste taking the place of cheese. There were organic ground beef and squash lasagna noodles, to round out the dish.

Here is a photo of one of the breakout groups, who discussed the benefits of communal food preparation and dining.

Communal Dining Presentation, at Roberta’s Society Hostel, Aarhus

We have similar gatherings, from time to time, in Prescott and this weekend, in Sacramento, there is a Slow Food Americas festival, with dozens of breakout groups and presentations, celebrating the benefits of healthful food production, sustainable agriculture and animal husbandry and careful composting.

Roberta’s Society Hostel, Aarhus

Roberta was not a person, as such, but a name attached to a concept: The Kalpin brothers, Danish entrepreneurs, established the hostel in a former library. The idea was to get away from the standard “locals shall not stay in hostels” policy that has been in place around the world for many decades, and bring people together in community, thus communal dining and other positive gatherings are regularly held at Roberta’s Society.

ARoS Aarhus Art Museum

The museum with a rainbow roof was designed by Danish/Icelandic artist, Olafur Eliasson. It is one of the reasons that Roberta’s is fairly easy to find, being just to the west of ARoS, near the northern portion of Aarhus’ tree-lined park. The city is fairly bustling,as any second-largest city would have to be, but Roberta’s is actually within walking distance of the train station.

I found that out, only after catching a bus and learning Aarhus’ unique phone-app based bus fare payment system. That involved going to three different 7-11 stores (The chain is big in Denmark) and finally getting a clerk to sell me a card that is affiliated with the phone app.

Walking close to Roberta’s, I captured a few of Aarhu’s older buildings, including this stately bank building.

Old Bank building, Central Aarhus

Aarhus embraces the new, in sculpture, as well as in cuisine. Here is Phil Price’s “Snake, Aarhus, 2253”.

Arhus is another fascinating place that would be worth 2-3 more days. Alas, I have promises to keep……..Next up, Berlin.

The Road to Diamond, Day 301: More Jewels of Kronen, Part II

4

September 24, 2025, Copenhagen– The amazing thing about today was the three instances of almost total quiet that enveloped a place where I happened to be, even though there were large numbers of people about.

First was Kastellet, a one-time regal fortress that was totally given over to the Danish military, following World War II. It had been fortified after a Swedish siege of Copenhagen, in the Seventeenth Century, but proved an effective deterrent against the British, in 1704. Today, I was impressed with the intensity of Danish troops engaged in individual and group training. Kastellet’s archives detail the various occasions in which Denmark has contributed to peacekeeping activities, since World War Ii. The nation is a vital part of NATO, and of United Nations peacekeeping efforts. It behooves other nations to keep this in mind.

Moat at Kastellet, Copenhagen
Another visitor from North America-a Great Blue Heron!
Another view of the moat and ramparts, Kastellet
A view of the wall
Commander’s House
Barracks, Kastellet
Citadel Church
Dutch-style windmill-replaced an earlier mill that was destroyed in a storm.

After leaving Kastellet, I had only to walk a short distance before noticing a large dome. This turned out to be Frederiks Kirke, and it is the largest domed church in Scandinavia. Once inside, all are to maintain silence-and we all did. Soft, soothing music was the only sound. No loudly-clicking cameras or flash photography are permitted inside, either.About seventy of us were inside, and quiet.

Frederiks Kirke

After spending about twenty minutes in the great church, I went across the street to the large complex of palaces, which punctuate Frederikssgade. Below are the palaces, in a clockwise direction.

Amalianborg, on the left, with Christian VIII’s palace to the right.
Frederik VIII’s Palace
Christian IX’s palace

I left the quiet atmosphere of the royal courtyard, and went back to the bustle of Old Town, via the Yellow Palace, which now houses many offices of the Danish government.

Yellow Palace, Copenhagen

It was time to get a bit of supper, and reflect. Ironically, both would take me the third place of solitude- Kongen Have (King’s Garden) More on this bit of heaven, in the next post.

The Road to Diamond, Day 300: Kronborg and Kobenhavn

0

September 23, 2025, Copenhagen- There is something fairy tale-like about Helsingor. Like a Danish version of Visby, it largely is filled with cobblestone streets. Unlike Visby, its Old Town is mostly a no-car zone. Here are some of the Old Town scenes I promised you last night.

Old Town street, Helsingor
Hamlet Hotel, Helsingor is across the street from Skandia, where I stayed last night.
St.Marie’s Church, Helsingor
Dom Church (Cathedral) of Helsingor

Now, here is the crown jewel of Old Elsinore: Kronborg Castle, which was William Shakespeare’s setting for Hamlet.

Denmark has been a country since the 11th Century. Around 1424, King Eric VII built the prototype of the fortress, overlooking Oresund, which separates Sjaelland (“SHEL-land) from the Swedish Peninsula, at its narrowest point, In 1585, King Frederick II expanded the fortress into a magnificent castle. The fortress burned down, in 1629, after which King Kristian IV had it rebuilt. In 1658, the fortress proved insufficient to withstand an attack by Sweden, during the war in which the latter seized control of Scandia, the southernmost part of the peninsula, from the Danes. In 1785, Kronborg became a military barracks, as the king had moved to Copenhagen. It was given to the Danish people, in the 1920s, as an historical treasure.

What a treasure it is! Here are seven photos of the grounds and the interior, including the extensive Casemates (the dungeons and underground refuge of the royals, during the war with Sweden.).

The Moat of Kronborg Castle
Cannons, facing north, from Kronborg Castle
Kronborg’s Cannon Tower, from the courtyard
The Chapel, which was the only area, not affected by the Fire of 1629.
Oresund, and other parts of Kronborg, from the Cannon Tower. This viewpoint is reached after climbing 145 steps. I still have it, even if it means taking 2 twenty-second breathers going up.
Holger the Dane, legendary protector of the nation, who awakens when Denmark has met its darkest hour. He otherwise sleeps in the Casemates.
In the Casemates-Is down up or is up, down?
A Word of Caution.
Queen Margrethe I, who ruled Denmark and all of Scandinavia.

No display of a castle is complete without a scene of the ballroom. So here is #8.

The Ballroom

With this lovely visit, I headed back to Skandia, retrieved my bags and headed across the street to the train station. I learned last night, from the ferry monitor, how to work a ticket machine, and so got my own ticket to Copenhagen. Sadly, the Baha’i National Centre turned out to be in a suburban location-so I missed seeing the friends there. I did speak with one on the phone and may be able to join a meeting at my next place of visitation.

Copenhagen, though, is exquisite. I will be here tomorrow and early Thursday. Let us close with this scene of Indre By, the “Old Town” of the Danish capital, of which more tomorrow.

Ornate small cafe, with Hotel D’Angleterre in the background. An enterprising young woman runs a small coffee shop here.

Rumour has it that Tivoli is temporarily closed. I will check that one out further, tomorrow. Even so, there is plenty of opportunity to keep occupied here.

The Road to Diamond, Day 299: Navigating the Bugs

0

September 22, 2025, Helsingor, Sjaelland, Denmark- When I got to the Long-Distance trains, in Stockholm, accompanied by my friend from Nynashamn, two tings were obvious: The Rail App that I got for my iPhone, specifically to make catching trains easier, was not doing so AND I had oversimplified the booking process in my head. This led to learning curve #2 on this journey: Every leg of the process is different and every leg has to be set in motion, before showing up at the gate. I learned that it is best to go to the ticket office at the station, well before the desired time of departure-not 1/2 hour prior. The well-oiled team is what has got me this far, and given me a road map for the rest of the journey (no pun intended).

It all worked out; I got to say farewell to the kids and their father at the station in Nynasgard; I was able to purchase a ticket at the Central Station Billeting Office and friend was able to tend to an important matter of her own, after I boarded the train with time to spare, after all.

I found myself seated next to a very interesting person, who is writing historical novels, accenting the achievements of the Swedish people, rather than dwelling on the hardships and deprivations the country has faced, over the centuries. She is also a rather skilled photographer, and showed me some of her portfolio. I shared with her my philosophy of education and the basic teachings of Baha’i. After a time, we reverted to our own spaces and enjoyed the quiet ride through the heart of central and southern Sweden. When she met her partner, at Malmo, she told him of her interest in what I had shared. He seemed to be favourable to her comments.

With help from a train conductor in Malmo, I reverted to my initial plan of taking the train to Helsingborg, then the ferry to Helsingor-as opposed to following the Stockholm ticket agent’s idea of going to Copenhagen and then up to my destination. That would have likely added a good hour to the journey. I had just enough time in Helsingborg to take photos of the interesting Centrum.

Helsingborg Centrum from the Ferry terminal
Helsingborg Centrum (above and below)
South Side of Helsingborg
Old Harbour House, Helsingborg

We left Helsingborg, and Sweden, on time. My seatmate on the train from Stockholm to Malmo remarked that today was the first time she had seen that train leave on schedule, in nearly two years of back and forth. I have a different impression of Swedish punctuality, but maybe that is my luck-everything has been on the button, during my time here.

So far, I can only say I have experienced 90 % kindness, in both Iceland and Sweden. Certainly, the expectation is that the visitor will put forth effort to observe how things are done, and follow suit, but there is also a goodly measure of grace and forthright correction, when needed. I am used to taking life lessons in stride and not making the same mistake twice. This fits nicely with how people expect visitors to go about their time in both countries.

I expect it will be much the same in Denmark. Helsingor, for starters is compact. Hotel Skania, where I am tonight, is right across the tracks from the Train Station and Ferry Terminal. A short two blocks to the west and south is a row of restaurants and shops, with no cars allowed. Rib House, where I dined this evening, is a fun place, where each patron gets to check off the items chosen for the meal. There is a one-trip, or unlimited salad bar, in the style of American steak houses. How well meat is to be cooked is a choice item as are the type of potatoes one wants, and the sauces, if any, that are desired. Of course, one checks off what drink is desired.

Rib House, Helsingor Centrum

I will share more of Helsingor tomorrow. Now, it’s time for rest.