September 23 took me through the rolling, forested hills of a far neighbour:  southwestern Kansas.  I find going through Dodge City, Garden City and their siblings to the west is the quickest way to get to Colorado from Oklahoma.  I drove up through the Cimarron Valley, out of Enid and into the Jayhawk State, rather than going through the Oklahoma Panhandle, as I did last time.  The Cimarron River was running a tad low.

Soon enough, I was marveling at the Red Hills of Kansas, south and east of Dodge City.

Medicine Lodge is the first community in a series of Kansas towns which figured large, in the story of the settlement of the West.

The centerpiece of this area, though, remains the domain  of Marshal Matt Dillon and Wyatt Earp:  Welcome to Dodge!

The Marshal was real,

and he had a little jail.

Everything else that is necessary to a viable community was also there- including school and church.

Old Dodge City’s commercial area was as lively as that of much larger towns back East.  The pharmacy had, relatively speaking, a selection reminiscent of WalMart or CVS.

The saloons and restaurants were numerous.

In addition to the lawmen, even animals found their way into Dodge City lore.

Dodge City had a small Town Green.

Today’s Dodge is as upbeat and modern as any place in the USA.  The philosophical mien of this town is self-reliance, as indicated by this meme on the wall of  a local coffee house, Cup of Jones.

I like to be nice to people, but there is something to be said for the person who wrote this.  I was soon to sit down with one of his/her kindred spirits, who is also one of my best friends.

Getting from Cleburne to Lake Texoma took much of the afternoon.  I spent an hour or so, driving around the northern and eastern edges of the man-made gem that lies along the state line of Texas and Oklahoma.  First stop was the Love County Courthouse, in Marietta, OK.

Next were the lake, and its awesome truss bridge.

A crane took a lazy wade in the lake’s northeastern corner.

In the midst of intense fishing and swimming activity, I managed some sanguine shots from the eastern shore.

The Roosevelt Memorial Bridge may not win any beauty contests, but it gets the job done well.

Here’s a final view, from the western edge.

I didn’t stop long in Oklahoma City, and got into Enid, and a cozy couch, at 8:30, so the photo day was done.

My Dallas visit covered the flashy downtown, Pioneer Park, with its cattle drive sculpture and Dealy Plaza.  There are other sections of Texas’ second-largest city, including the Heritage Center, that could be the focus of another visit, but my main concern was the heart of  Big D.

The area along the Trinity River, and its views of downtown, from the west, gave me a fine first impression of a city that had mainly been seen from the freeway, in years past.

Like San Antonio, Dallas has preserved its exposition-period tower.

It has also preserved the cabin built in 1841, by Dallas’ founder, John Neely Bryan.

In the same downtown park, Founders Plaza,  there is an homage to those who died in combat.

The most iconic building in downtown Dallas is the red sandstone Dallas County Courthouse, now known as the Old Red Museum.

Just north of the Big Red is the Purse Building, a preserved former government records office, now converted into shops and restaurants.

Here is the core of downtown Dallas.

After an hour in the Dallas Public Library, I found my way to Pioneer Park, and enjoyed the cow culture sculptures,  a small waterfall and a pina colada icy.

My final stop, in this 50th commemorative year of John F. Kennedy’s assassination, was Dealey Plaza.

As it was 6 PM, on that Saturday evening, and my heart was a bit achy, I headed on down to the Liberty Hotel, in Cleburne, TX, and pondered just how far we’ve come, as a nation, since 1963.  I’ve been in Cleburne, once before, in May, 2012, and my stay at the Liberty fulfilled a silent promise I made back then.  It’s a well-appointed business hotel, with a fine eatery, Caddo Street Grill, located just behind.  I enjoyed Saturday dinner and Sunday lunch there- courtesy of a feisty, but hard-working wait staff.

My journey was entering the home stretch, with a few stops remaining in the familiar turf of Oklahoma, Kansas and Colorado.  My biggest journey was to be the one I took inside myself.

Most of my Texas journeys have focused on the west and north of the Lone Star Empire.  I did head down the midsection, from Fort Worth to Brownsville, in May, 2012.  This time around, the journey was brief, from Texarkana, to Longview, and on to Dallas.  Longview was my rest stop on September 20.  My first taste of  the Piney Woods came at a rest stop, off I-20, halfway between Tyler and Terrell.  Here, next to a game farm, is a 1/2 mile nature trail.

Views of the game farm were abundant,

and I made a new friend.

The emu followed me along the fence, for pretty much the length of the trail.

When I detoured to Grand Saline, some friendly folks were giving away hot dogs and water, to promote their video store.

Their store is right next to the venerable Grand Saline Inn.

As elsewhere in Texas, the east has its share of “Old West”  structures.

Only Grand Saline, though, has the Salt Palace, actually an overhead to protect this lump of salt.  East Texas’ largest active salt mine is in operation, 5 miles south of Grand Saline.

The aviator Wiley Post is from this area, and is commemorated here.

I made a three hour visit to Dallas, that afternoon, so next up is Big D.

I spent a rather mild, but rainy and misty day, the last day of summer- September 20, taking in more of the loveliness along the Arkansas River, in the River Market area of Little Rock.   About an hour and thirty minutes were also spent reliving the Clinton years, at the 42nd President’s Library and Museum.  Those were fine years for my wife, son and me.  They were, like Bill himself, a mixed blessing for the country.

Little Rock sometimes gets a bad rap, but my two visits there were very pleasant, and I would like to see more mid-sized cities emulate a locale like the River Market.  I had a very cozy two hours, sitting in the warmth of Boulevard Bread Company.

Later in the afternoon, I enjoyed the larger food court.  It’s a mini- Quincy Market.

My first rainy day adventure was visiting the Central Arkansas Nature Center.

It has some things that could figure in one of my nightmares- if I ever have nightmares.

Still think turtles make cute pets?

I next took a walk along a section of the River Trail that I had missed last time.

At the eastern end of  this fine park, a small botanic garden separates it from the freeway.

Here is where I thought further of my Little Rock friend, Reilly.

The route to the William J. Clinton Presidential Center and Library follows this boardwalk.

The clean-up along the banks of the Arkansas River includes this unique device.

Many hard-working people of the soil have kept the faith, and kept places like Arkansas going.

Here are some scenes of the Clinton Presidential Center.  This is the table from the Cabinet Room.

Another table served dignitaries at State Dinners.

One such visitor presented the Clintons with this unique piece d’art.

Here is Mr. Clinton’s desk from the Oval Office.

The view from the third floor offers a new perspective on the timeline.

Inside looking out also gave me pause.

So, also, did looking back at the complex, afterward.

Little Rock is worth discovering.

So, too, is east Texas, and I found a bit of it to my liking, on the first day of autumn.

Ste. Genevieve, MO lies tight along the Mississippi, about two hours south of St. Louis.  It is Missouri’s Canadian connection, and having been founded in 1735, is the oldest permanent European settlement in the state.  I spent about 2 1/2 hours there, in the afternoon of September 19.  Here is a sampling of the town’s architecture, both of the 18th and 19th centuries.

Of course, I started at a 20th Century edifice:  Great River Road Visitor Center.

Then, it was time to revert to Les Bontemps Vieux.

The County Courthouse is typical of  the Midwest’s great structures.

The Cathedral of Ste. Genevieve is, by far, the signature piece of this lovely town, named in her honour.

This grand little settlement has its cheeky side, and here’s a nod to one of my online friends.

Day 29 was a misty, cool visit to another unexpected favourite- Little Rock.

I had interesting stops along the way, from Annapolis to Ste. Genevieve, MO.  Taking I-86, instead of I-70, took me through Hancock and Cumberland, MD, both small, but historically vital towns.  Hancock was my dinner stop, and has a couple of hiking trails that could occupy the time of furloughed Federal workers, should there be another “hiccup”.  It also has Weaver’s, a decent family restaurant in the downtown area.

I didn’t take the hiking trails, but in the off-chance I get back this way, Hancock is close to the AppalachianTrail.

One of the trails begins near this bridge, behind Main Street.

My stop in Cumberland was for dessert and Wifi.  There was the added bonus of this historic train station park, which has a European Desserts Cafe on its southern edge.

Day 26 ended at a Super 8, in Waynesburg, PA. This is the heart of a fracking area, so I was lucky to get a room, on that rainy night.

The next day was bright and sunny, and got me as far as Bloomington, IL.  I didn’t indulge in sightseeing, though Rudy’s, in Springfield, OH, has some worthwhile barbecue, at a rock-bottom price.  Richmond, IN, is worth a stop, if one wants to sample Amish goods.  I stopped there for about an hour, for Wifi.  Getting to Bloomington, IL around 8:30 P.M., I encountered a welcome sight, at Schooner’s.

Nataly was gracious and a fine conversationalist.  Since Bloomington has become a favoured stop of mine, in this part of Illinois, it was  doubly worth our two hour visit.  I stayed at America’s Best Value, for the second time in two months, and took care of “housekeeping” tasks the next morning.  Much of Day 28, though, was spent in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri’s oldest settlement.

The United States Naval Academy was an outgrowth of the War of 1812.  It had become evident that America would be subject to continued outside harassment, without a more systematic training of officers, especially for our Navy.  After years of debate (wonder of wonders), the Academy was founded in 1845, at what was then Fort Severn, near the waterfront of Annapolis.

Today, here are some scenes from this elegant and well- appointed institution of learning.  It must be remembered that the Academy is also an active military base, so the photographs are of public areas, only.

This entrance is for special events, only.

The north entrance is the main gate.

The Academy’s mission is clearly stated.

One clears security, in this building.

Admiral William F. Halsey,  a hero of World War II, is prominent in Academy lore.

Slogans from earlier times keep the cadets inspired.

Here is the Visitor Center, from the water’s edge.

As the residential areas and classroom buildings are off-limits to visitors, here is a reprise of the water, as seen from the Academy grounds.

It was, all too soon, time to head west, so I said farewell to my  childhood friend, the Atlantic  Ocean, and headed across Maryland, West Virginia, and Pennsylvania, before stopping for the night.

Upon arriving in downtown Annapolis, I meandered around the back streets a bit, before checking out the Visitor Center.

Of course, lunch was very much on the agenda, so I checked out a Baked Potato restaurant, of all things.  it was fabulous.

The decor inside was innovative and entertaining.

Annapolis being the state capital of Maryland, the government edifices were much in evidence.

One of Maryland’s great human treasures was the late former Supreme Court Justice, Thurgood Marshall- a paragon of jurisprudence.

Maryland’s Roman Catholic roots are celebrated throughout Annapolis.  Here is the Calvert House.

The Church of St. Ann is Annapolis’ premier Catholic edifice.

Moving away from the Capitol ^, we come upon the city’s historic watering holes.

Along with the rest of  the nation, Annapolis paid its respects to the Anacostia 12.

The events of the previous day just made my visit to the United States Naval Academy all the more poignant.

The right way, to me, to experience a town like Annapolis, MD, is from the water’s edge, on inland.  That was not exactly how I actually carried out my visit, because there was a rather important matter that attended my arrival there:

I was glad to spend an hour or so visiting with Christina Fullmer and her daughter.  I have known the family, online, for about 3 1/2 years now.  Real time just underscores my joy at feeling close to them.  Christina has a very good sense of things, and is an excellent parent.

Returning to the traveler’s Annapolis, my maritime roots were well-nourished here.  Some of these scenes were taken from the Town Dock, and some from the United States Naval Academy- more on that great institution, later.

Annapolis’ maritime history is part nefarious (It was a center of the slave trade), and part honorable (The American naval effort in the War of 1812 was, in good part, waged from here.)  It is all worthy of study.
There are two major African-American figures associated with Annapolis:  Alex Haley and Thurgood Marshall.  Mr. Haley’s ties to this city stem, as is well-known, from the documented arrival here, in 1767, of one Kunta Kinte (see Harold Courlander’s, The African), whom Alex Haley claimed as an ancestor, in his book, Roots.  Alex Haley, and his ancestors, are honoured at a dockside park.

Following, are some tablets, recapping some timeless quotes from “Roots”.

The full story of Annapolis is contained herein.

This edifice is, for me, something to be savoured another time.

In Part 2, I will focus on the center of historic Annapolis, from the Visitor Center, to the Capitol and on to Dock Street, gateway to the Naval Academy, which will itself be the focus of Part 3.