October 28, 2023, Manila- Although you didn’t ask, I will tell you anyway: With not much going on today, I busied myself in learning how to count by ones, then by tens and thousands,in Tagalog. Here is the chart for which you have all been waiting!
One Isa; Two Dalawa; Three Tatlo; Four Apat; Five Lihma;
Six Anim; Seven Pito; Eight Wahlo; Nine Seeyam; Ten Sampu
Hundred Isang Daan Thousand Isang Libo Ten Thousand Sampung Libo
Hundred Thousand Isang Daan Libo Million Isang Milyon Billion Isang Bilyon
Some other essentials: Hello is……Hello! Goodbye is Paalam. Please is Pakiusap. Thank you is Salamat po. Excuse me is Pasensya na po. Yes is Oo. No is Hindi. No thank you is Hindi salamat. How are you? is Kamusta? Pleased to meet you is Nagagalak ako na makilala kaed.
Of course, most Filipinos know at least a fair amount of English, but like people anywhere, they appreciate an effort by visitors to speak the language of their heart. It is unfortunate, in my view, that salamat is being replaced by Thank you, but that is the trend, here in Manila, at least.
To keep up a visual of the Baha’i National Center, here is the dignified Seat of the National Spiritual Assembly of the Baha’is of the Philippines.
Meeting Room of National Spiritual Assembly, Manila (Above and below)
October 27, 2023, Manila- A family of five came by, as we were resting from the previous task. Once it was determined that they needed about forty-minutes’ rest, before heading to a bus station to Rizal Province, northeast of here, a table was set and light refreshments were served. The great-grandparents, grandmother, mother and young daughter were just glad to get in out of the humidity.
I was determined to be more productive today, than yesterday. That wish was definitely fulfilled. I reminded Norlie that the National Spiritual Assembly member who was here until a few days ago had expressed a wish that the bookshelf be restocked, with more up-to-date publications. So, we set about removing the old books, many of them tattered, and thus in need of tender loving care-in the storage room.
Once the shelves were cleaned, it took about an hour to carefully restock them with study materials and more recent expository volumes. Thus was another goal of this visit achieved, and in short order.
BeforeAfter
The afternoon was broken up by the arrival of the family. After they had had a fairly good rest, it was time to escort them safely to a bus station on the other side of Makati. Thus came a short taxi ride, two jittney buses and a fair walk, with a few street crossings here and there. Philippine streets, as many of you know, are not always marked with crosswalks, let alone traffic signals. Stop signs are almost non-existent. Still and all, most drivers here know what they’re doing, as do most pedestrians. Honked horns are plentiful, but collisions are rare- at least from what I’ve seen and heard thus far.
My main tasks, as I understood them, were to carry the family’s food box and to make sure the grandfather was not left behind. His wife came to the back of the line, about 1/4 mile before we reached the bus terminal, and guided him past some dark areas, where slippery tree roots lurked. Evceryone made it to the outside waiting area, safe and sound. A vigilant station agent brought a portable bench and the family was able to sit comfortably, during the remaining fifteen minute wait for their van bus to Rizal Province.
With that, Norlie and I headed back towards the Center. After stopping for a split ear of corn, we crossed to catch a bus. In the full jittney back to Santa Ana district, there was room for me, in the aisle. I knelt, quite comfortably actually, for the fifteen- minute ride to Dian Street, from whence it was quite easy to walk back to our work station, which is also her residence. A couple of tasty muffins and a bottle of water intervened on our behalf, but she was safely escorted home and I was back in my hotel room, before 9 p.m.
October 26, 2023, Manila- I looked out the window of my 10th floor room, early this morning, and saw this:
Seen on top of a high rise condominium, Manila
What better way is there to start the day?
This was to be a day for security duty, so we will not be out and about much. We sat in the Center and studied a bit, but otherwise were still with our own thoughts, and watchful. It is a fairly quiet neighbourhood, by Filipino standards. That means that the motorcycles and tuk tuks still go back and forth, and toot for the fight of way, and people are constantly back and forth, on foot-but there is no drama and few people coming to the door, to ask for food or money.
I got fresh insight into my long-range guidance and the resultant plans, from now until 2030, with the primary notion that family needs trump even the most worthy of Baha’i-based travel or Home Base activities. That ought to be true, for everyone, everywhere, but this is not a perfect world. The news came, this morning, on a Baha’i Zoom call, that a gunman-apparently mentally ill, had killed 18 and wounded 13, in an enraged attack on bowling alley and bar, in the small city of Lewiston, Maine.
I have been through Lewiston, and neighbouring Auburn, several times, but have not stopped there for any length of time. Nonetheless, my heart melts at the horror the people there must be feeling. All of this is due, essentially, to the view that the mentally ill deserve to be able to defend themselves, under the Second Amendment to the United States Constitution. I beg to differ-in that a schizophrenic’s or manic depressive’s idea of self-defense is often based on delusional thinking. The attacker in today’s shootings told his family, not too long ago, that he was hearing voices in his head. In my family, the minute such a statement was made, there would be securing of weapons-not just firearms, but knives, nunchucks/stars,even 2 x 4s. The afflicted one would be kept as safe as possible, but not on his/her own. Those who insist otherwise, in the name of a conservative interpretation of freedom, are themselves engaged in delusional thinking.
There is no rest, in Lewiston, in Gaza, in southern Israel, in Darfur, or in any of two dozen other places where violence and rage are the norm. So, here we rest, and count our blessings.
October 25, 2023, Manila- The clerk smiled wanly, as he told my friend that the matter she is seeking to resolve can only be tended through making an appointment, and that appointment can only be made over the phone-on a Tuesday or on a Thursday. This is the legacy of the “State Department streamlining” that was in vogue, until a few years ago. While I can understand the reasoning behind it, there remain those, like my friend, whose anomalous issues merit rather urgent consideration, and thus are discomfited by what they can reasonably view as just another roadblock.
I will fortunately be around until Tuesday, so if she misses making the call tomorrow, there is always Hallowe’en morning, before I have to Alley-oop back to Airplane Village. This is one of the tasks that was before me, when I first arrived at the South Luzon Baha’i Center, so it is important to keep on top of it, at leas to the point that she feels encouraged and empowered. (It has nothing to do with immigration, just so we’re clear.)
The gatekeepers at the Embassy do have their work cut out for them, with many people who are looking to immigrate to the U.S., or at least obtain short-term work visas. The Filipinos who I have encountered in the U. S. are amazing workers and have a gentleness about how they go about their work. They keep their cool and try to work through any bureaucratic nonsense that arises, whether it is governmental or corporate. I noticed that the very people assigned to enforce bureaucratic rules-including the clerks at the Embassy gate, have a sense of humour about the scheduling and other small details. This does tend to set the visitors at ease.
She took her copy of the reminder to call, tomorrow, and we walked down the steps, past the vendors, touts and beggars, to the seaside park that was renovated and upgraded, during the last Presidential administration. That president, I recall, was all about the Philippines-and its people, being respected by the rest of the world. The current state of Manila Bay was one of his pet projects, and was done well.
View of Manila Bayside Park (Dolomite Beach) , from the overpass to U.S. EmbassySection of former sea wall, Dolomite Beach, Manila Bay
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A human, for scale, at sea wall section, Dolomite Beach
After returning from the seaside, we switched gears, and with a second friend, we headed towards the Scottsdale of the Philippines, aka Makati. Here, we met a third friend, for an afternoon and evening of pretend shopping and art appreciation.
It’s not just WalMart that is full on Christmas.
We met K, at Cash and Carry Mall (shown above), then went to Greenbelt, also known as Makati Glorietta Mall. Here, our first stop was Ayala Museum, where an exhibit of abstract art by young people from around the Philippines is on view.
Here is an example:
Vision from the eyes of the future.Avant garde art abounds at Glorietta.There are five Green Belts in Makati Glorietta. This is a scene from # 5.
We were all drawn to a loud presentation, which turned out to be an interpretive dance roll-up to the opening of a photography exhibition, also by young Manilenos, curated by Maria Ylona.
Interpretive Dancers leading up to a photography exhibit’s opening
This opening was a class act, with a dignified set of coccktails, softails and delectable hors my d’oeuvres. This was own first time eating caviar-not bad at all. Here is an example of the photographs which won awards from Ms. Ylona.
Team work, Filipino-styleCats earn their keep, at Makati’s malls. One does not see rats, anywhere.Is there any doubt, as to who’s boss?Green Belt #4’s “moat”Three fashionistas
As it was, after this last photograph, we looked upon the crowd that was queued up to head to the suburbs, and took it upon ourselves to sit in the garden’s twilight. An hour of nibbling on Starbucks flatbreads and enjoying the cooling air was a far more reasonable way to wait out the masses than standing on a curb and breathing fumes, though there was some of that, later.
There is ever something interesting, when one’s hosts are three amigas.
October 24, 2023, Manila- Today was a day of rest for my hosts. It began with another member of the community questioning my reasons for being here-indicating that I was limiting myself to an area where not all that much was going on. My response was to just sit tight and let the message process. After a while, I got further information from one of my hosts, that there was the initial expectation that I would be blazing about the country, with some days in one spot and some in another.
Now I could reply: . This is not my last visit to the Philippines. In fact, when honouring the end of World War II, (God willing, and provided WW III hasn’t started in the meantime), two years hence, it will make the most sense for me to go from Europe to east Asia, rather than returning to the U.S. and leaving again after only a month at Home Base. That will give more time for the provincial activities the community member wants to see.
My Korean friends were fond of saying “Rome wasn’t built in a day”, though their context was more along the lines of excusing an extended lack of effort. In my case, I would excuse being overextended, but there is no sense in making excuses. 2025 will be what it is, and I am just glad to be here to listen to my hosts and offer assistance where I can, in terms of encouraging healing where it is needed, and connecting friends who live in the same part of the country, but who did not know one another, until a day or two ago. Networking has always been important in my life, and is as much a reason why I have traveled almost incessantly, since I was seven years old. (Going to different areas of Saugus was as big a deal then, as going to different parts of North America, and beyond, is now). It is all about connections.
I am happy to report that the community member has come to understand my mindset and has adjusted expectations. I hope and trust that others will do the same, as this decade plays out-and if immediate family needs arise,those will always take precedence.
October 23, 2023, Manila- My hat came off, as soon as I came upon the jarring scene: A sculpted depiction of the execution of a nation’s hero.
As my hosts looked over at the edge of the park named in honour of the Philippines’ national hero, they somehow did not recognize the boundary with Intramuros and hailed a taxi to take us around to the west side of the park. I have made it my business not be the leader of the band, but in matters of scant consequence, to follow along.
Few matters are as consequential, however, as the attempt to silence those who love their country, their land, their fellow citizens. Jose A. Rizal, a polymath and patriot, gave his very life for the independence of the Philippine nation. He was accused-of treason to Spain, tried, found guilty, and executed, under duress, by a firing squad-of his countrymen, on December 30, 1896. Two years later, Spain lost possession of the Philippines to the United States. The American leadership, under Admiral George Dewey, assented to the proper burial of Dr. Rizal and his family was able to obtain closure.
The Philippine nation got its closure, fifty years later, when July 4, 1946 saw the birth of a unified and free archipelago. All this is commemorated, and the outcome celebrated, at Rizal Park. The sacrifice of Dr. Rizal, and countless members of his associates-both and after his killing, have brought about the ongoing emergence of a fine nation, which is the best anyone can say about any collective society of human beings.
Here are scenes of Rizal Park.
West entrance to Rizal Park, once known as Luneta. Memorial to Dr. Jose A. RizalFacts in the matter of Dr. Rizal’s executionDepiction of the execution of Dr. RizalThe Chinese and Japanese residents of Manila each have built a garden, in their traditional styles. Here is the gateway to the Chinese Garden.Central platform of Chinese GardenSerenity in the Chinese Garden
The light was getting too low, by the time we came to the Japanese Garden. It made a visit impractical. That was not so, with regard to the Dancing Waters, the celebratory element of Rizal Park. For them, darkness only made things better.
Dancing Waters, sans luminee.The show begins!Joy rises, along with expectations.All the players have taken the field!
This bustling day was a fine introduction to Manila proper and to the hearts of my three hosts. Most of all, it gave me an opportunity to honour Dr. Rizal. Long may his spirit guide the Filipino people forward!
October 23, 2023, Manila- The four of us arrived in “Old Manila”, by taxi, and by vote of 3-0, with this one abstaining, out of being totally at a loss, we headed to Manila Cathedral. En route, we were stopped, briefly, by an elderly beggar, who ended up going on to a group of men, who gave him two boiled eggs. That is something I will always gladly do, if I have food to share. Money? Nah.
Manila Cathedral has been visited by several Popes, most recently Francis I. We found it sparsely occupied, and in need of some repairs, but worth visiting, nonetheless, because of its historical value.
The Manila Cathedral, from the east.History of Manila Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of the Immaculate ConceptionFriezes of the Passion of Jesus the Christ, fronted by a sculpture of Mother MaryInterior of Manila Cathedral
Chinese merchants were allowed into Intramuros, during daylight hours. Spanish law required them to leave at sunset. One merchant left this inscription, just outside the gated heart of Intramuros.
Partial inscription at north door to IntramurosThe guided tour to the interior rooms of Intramuros is not offered on Mondays. The scene above does show the substance of this magnificent complex.Wrought iron gate, to inner garden of Intramuros.Peak inside a “closed” room of IntramurosInner garden of IntramurosFunction room at White Knight Hotel, IntramurosHallway of White Knight HotelFern and orchid garden, IntramurosMy three kind guides, and the moss-covered wellThe rainbow-stone interior of the well at IntramurosSilver Grand Mirror, outside Barbara’s Heritage Restaurant, IntramurosAfter innumerable selfies of my friends, we continued to San Agustin Church. Here is the patron of the church.Interior of San Agustin Church, IntramurosSanctuary and lectern, San Agustin ChurchHere are some views of the wall itself (above and following)Atop the wall around Old ManilaThe long rampartOutside the wallSet cannons, in wall portalsThe full tableau of Spanish defenses, atop the wall.
Once we left the wall’s ramparts, it was time to pay respects to the Philippine national hero.
October 22, 2023, Paranaque- Traffic in Manila, on Sunday, is about what one would expect: Vehicles can actually move at more than 23 kmh. I got to the Baha’i National Center, in the Santa Ana section of Manila, in less than an hour. I was the first visitor to arrive, and was again warmly greeted by the residents. After a fashion, nearly fifteen other people showed for the devotional, we shared prayers, news from around the Philippines and refreshments. A feisty child alternated between boisterousness and reverence. Several of the Regional Council members were in and out of their own meeting, to dovetail with participating in the devotional.
Gathering at Baha’i National Center of the Philippines, Santa Ana, Manila
It all felt like a gathering at Home Base. It felt like home, and so it will be for the week ahead, especially once I transfer to University College Residences, the redundantly-named, but compact and ecologically-state of the art accommodations, a stone’s-throw from the Center. The ladies who live at the Center, serving as hosts and caretakers, are like younger sisters. The young man who is serving in the Philippine Navy is a mirror of my Navy-veteran son. The parents of the rambunctious little boy could be one of my nephews and nieces-in-law, whose son has gone from unruliness to morphing into a sensitive little man, compassionate about animal welfare and the well-being of his grandfather. The universality of the Baha’i Faith is always borne out by its members, as ordinary, and as flawed, as we sometimes are. It is borne out, as well, by our adherence to the principle: The Oneness of Mankind.
There is something of that, too, in how I have come to see the little community of Airplane Village, the collection of shops, restaurants, small hotels and a bar, that sit opposite the huge operation that is Terminal One, the primary International Terminal of Ninoy Aquino International Airport. The terminal itself has the feel of a family operation. In going back and forth between hotel and the terminal’s ATM (the Philippines is largely, mostly, a cash economy) I have come to be a familiar face to the gate guards and security people-in a good way. They have shown me the shortcuts to and from AV, and are not concerned about checking my passport each and every time I enter the facility.
Going back and forth between Airplane Village and Santa Ana’s Barangay 176, the past few days, is also a mirror of my larger life-somehow managing to fit in at Home Base, with my biological family and with people who make up extended family-across North America and now, in a real sense, across the ocean.
October 21, 2023, Paranaque- The driver seemed near the end of his rope: “How can you be staying someplace, and not know the address?” The equally flustered passenger was asking self the same question, but all the e-mails from the hotel gave a phone number and e-mail address, but no physical location. The gate guard at the airport knew the answer-“Sir, the rider cannot know the street address, because there is only a general location. Kindly drive around the edge of the terminal and turn left. You will both see a familiar face: Colonel Sanders. There is where the hotel is.” Driver followed the directions, the passenger sighed to self, paid the driver and went off to enjoy an evening of professional karaoke singers, playing all the hits they knew. It was a fine Saturday night, after all.
I spent the better part of the day with three or four Filipino Baha’is, at the National Center/South Luzon Regional Office. We also scouted my residence for the coming week, which is close to the office and will allow me to establish the bonds that are as much my goal for this journey, as the visit, three days ago, with my sponsored youth was. I will thus have put a toe in the water, figuratively speaking. By the end of my time here, the Philippines will seem as much like home as Arizona, California, New Mexico, Colorado,Carson City, Texas, Pennsylvania, New England, Atlantic Canada, the Pacific Northwest, Brittany and South Korea. Home is definitely expanding.
I was not always certain that I would take to the tropics, the same way that my temperate mindset has reveled in lands with four seasons. It is, however, more a sense of the heart being touched by the gentleness, overall, of people here-much as the First Nations peoples and the farm folk around North America, and the Celts of Brittany, have won that heart. Truth be known, I barely feel the intense heat. Sunscreen and a good hat take care of the physical aspect. I am, otherwise, mainly attending to conversations, some of them fairly deep, with both the Baha’i friends and people I have met here and in Bicol.
What this means for the years immediately ahead remains to be seen. Family will always be my primary responsibility, after service to Baha’u’llah. Being told, though, that I am always welcome here, means a lot.
Philippine Baha’i National Center-Main LibraryEntrance to Baha’i National Center of the Philippines, Santa Ana District, near Manila
October 20, 2023, Paranaque- The lady busily puttered about the courtyard and small garden, seemingly unaware of anything other than what was in front of her. To me, watching from a third story window, with appreciation of her diligent work in the afternoon heat, it was reassuring. The people of this largely commercial neighbourhood still had residences scattered among the businesses, and they took care of these, with dignity and a goodly amount of pride. A humble, dignified, graceful woman was, at that point in time, the most beautiful person on Earth.
Four small boys scampered about, in and out of the parking lot, around the four restaurants, three car rental agencies, a bar and the hotel where I am staying. They split themselves up, each one stationed in front of a restaurant, steering clear of the hotel-and of the bar, where the bouncer would have gladly given them a forceful heave-ho. Some realities are understood, intuitively, even by the desperate- especially by the desperate. I sat in Pablo’s, enjoying the pipes of a group of four men who were engaged in karaoke. I was invited to join in, on the English-language songs, but spared them my croaking voice. Listening to their many tunes, in English and in Tagalog, was a splendid way to while away the evening-for me, and for the little one outside, whose nose was pressed to the window. The food was also good.
I do not give money to beggars, no matter how old or young. A few years ago, as you may recall, I tried supporting a man who I thought was an honest entrepreneur, only to have him rebuff my suggestions and up his monetary demands. Lesson learned, and cord cut. The kids are engaging, and appealing-but I know where the money ends up, and it’s not in their pockets. The minder, if he or she could even be called that, waits at a gathering point, collection bag in hand.
Here in the Manila Airport Hotel, there is a constant buzz of guests, hotel staff, cafe workers, travel agents, masseuses and car rental agents. Lines form at the hotel desk and at the cafe counter-and are diligently honoured. No one in the Philippines seems to vaunt self over those in front of the line. I have been in places where that is not the case, but in this country, there is a fair amount of decorum-even on the busy streets, few are they who throw their weight around in traffic-and they are put in their places very quickly, either by the police or by other drivers.
I like this tight little neighbourhood, and will miss it, at least a bit, when I transfer to Santa Ana, nearer to Manila Proper, next week.