The Road to Diamond, Day 313, Part I: The Cost of Jingoism

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October 6, 2025, Sarajevo- Once again, I found myself looking at piles of children’s shoes, mounds of abandoned luggage, faces of frightened families being herded onto to trucks-instead of train cars, with the same promise of “a better life”. I looked into hundreds of pairs of eyes, of men of various ages; indeed, some of the “men” were only 14 or 15. Every last one of the more than 8,000 male human beings killed in July, 1995, in and around Srebrenica, Bosnia& Hercegovina was “guilty” of only one thing-being a Muslim in what their captors conceived to be a pure, Christian, Serbian nation of Yugoslavia.

The Srebrenica Memorial Center sits in what is styled the Republic of Srpska (Serp-ska), its existence and its mission protected by the overarching government of Bosnia i Hercegovina, under the Dayton Accords, which ended the war in Bosnia, in 1996. The Bosnian Serbs make no pretense of liking the message the Museum offers, but they abide its presence. In that sense, it is no different from, say, the Civil Rights Museum in Montgomery, AL or the Sand Creek Massacre National Monument, in southern Colorado. Those who view things only one way cannot easily accept even established fact, when it disrupts their world view.

Three of us were taken to this Museum, by a man named Adis. He is a veteran of the Bosnian War for Independence. He is also an accomplished de-mining technician, and has helped remove mines in over two dozen countries, since 1998. Adis is a Bosnian Muslim. He told us of the background of the horrors that nearly tore his country apart, in the years 1992-96. He told us, as did staff members at the Museum, of the unreliability of United Nations Peacekeepers, held back by the envoy of the U.N. to Yugoslavia and by their own commanders. These men told us what was the result of overemphasis on preserving the status quo. The Big Picture fell on top of the people who only wanted to live their lives in peace.

Here are some of the scenes presented us at the Museum, in Srebrenica itself and at the Memorial Cemetery, down the street from this powerful institution.

Srebrenica Memorial Center, Polocari, Bosnia i Hercegovina
Rijad Fejzic’s story

Riki was 18 when he died, probably alongside his father and most likely not when engaged in combat. He had no training, no weapon, only his faith and love for his family. Riki’s story is a recurring presence in the 26 rooms, in which the story of this conflict unfolds in the Memorial Center. His remains were only identified after the war had ended. His father’s have never been found. Riki was beaten to death.

Presentation at Memorial Center, Polocari

This man’s father was a Bosnian Army soldier. He himself has been a presenter at the Memorial Center, for almost fifteen years. He is showing the course of the attacks on Srebrenica, which had been deemed a protected zone of the United Nations. Bosnian Serb forces, aided by the Serbian regulars, decided to ignore the UN’s presence in the area, and marched on the town, on July 11, 1995. The UN’s troops, a Dutch battalion, were under-equipped and outnumbered. It could have been different, but those in control of the situation simply had other priorities.

A relative few of the abandoned shoes left by fleeing children, in July, 2011.
A mother’s sorrow
Taking a page from Nazi Germany, the Bosnian Serb and Serbian commanders overruled even the misgivings of their own rank and file soldiers, many of whom had known the Bosnian Muslims as neighbours- for decades.
Some of the 8,000 men and boys killed in July, 2011.
Survivors gathered at the site of a mass grave, in 1996.
The city of Srebrenica is a shell of its old self, but its young people still hold it close.
The city from a former healing spa, high above. The spires are those of two mosques.
Peace Monument in the central square of Srebrenica.
An estimate of the total number of Bosnian men and boys killed in July, 1995. Posted at Memorial Cemetery.
Row upon row of Muslim graves, all from that fateful day in July, 1995.

No one should condemn the Serbian people for what happened, any more than one could condemn the German nation for the Nazi reign of terror or the average Southern white male for the horrors of slavery and Jim Crow, or the majority of Hutu farmers for the slaughter of the Tutsi, in Rwanda. Adis put it clearly: “Most people just want to live their lives in peace and provide for their families. It’s as true of the Serbs around us as it is of we Bosniaks.”

The lesson of Srebrenica, of Auschwitz-Birkenau, of Rwanda, of Cambodia, of the oppression of Indigenous peoples the world over, is that the people of any given community cannot just leave the affairs of a community, state/province or nation to the ambitious and those with an agenda. Each of us has a say in what goes on around us. This is one of the keys to peace-It starts within and radiates outward, lest it die on its own vine.

The Road to Diamond, Day 311: Split, The Unified

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October 4, 2025, Split, Croatia- Boris met me at the designated spot, which I found only by happenstance. This was another of those “We can’t help you because you have no Internet connection” catch-22s that Spectrum/Safari plays with abandon. (They are the ones denying Internet service, btw). I went to Pazar 1’s gate and waited just a bit-and there he was, telling me that I looked more like a Croatian local than he would have imagined. That felt good.

Pazar 1, Split

Our game plan was a full one: We walked through Pazar (the city market since Ottoman times, or longer.) The south and east areas of Diocletian’s Palace were next on the agenda. Diocletian was a native of this area, an Illyrian, born and raised in Salona, over the mountain, from what is now Split. He rose through the ranks of the Roman Army and became co-Emperor, at first along with Maximian in 286 AD/CE. This started the process of the Empire being divided into East and West. Diocletian built his palace at Spalatum, claiming the East for himself. Although he was an autocrat, Diocletian went along with Maximius’ plan to further divide the Empire, this time into four units, with Galerius and Constantius as junior co-Emperors. This arrangement actually helped the Romans defeat Persia, in 200, with the sacking of the Persian capital, Ctesiphon.

Diocletian carried out a bloody, but unsuccessful campaign to eradicate Christianity in the Empire. When the campaign failed, Diocletian retired from imperial duties, in 305. Co-Emperor Constantine, son of Constantius, recognized it as the official religion of the Roman Empire in 324. He lived out his days at this palace of Spalatum, now known as Split.

Pazar 1, east gate of Diocletian’s Palace and the Church of St,, Domnius

Domnius was sent, by the Apostle Paul to Dalmatia, the region that encompasses Croatia’s coast and the immediate interior, to preach the Gospel to the Illyrian people. Despite Diocletian’s imprisonment and execution of Domnius, in 304, Dalmatia became a steadfast Catholic region, under the encouragement of Constantine. Croatia is still a largely Roman Catholic country, as is neighbouring Slovenia.

Church of St. Domnius, Split
Original paving stones from the time of Diocletian

Here is a more complete view of the east and south areas of Diocletian’s Palace.

South courtyard of Diocletian’s Palace, Split

Diocletian’s Palace is the only place, outside ot Rome and Gizeh, that still has sphinxes (There are two here).

One of the two Sphinxes of Diocletian’s Palace, Split

We left this part of the palace, heading toward Marjan (marYAN) Hill. To get there, we had to pass through the “Street that can fit only one at a time”. Here I am, having gotten through it.

“The street that can fit only only at a time”.

The next photo shows the melange of architectural styles that can be found in Split’s oldest neighbourhood. These are Roman, Venetian,Ottoman, and Austrian.

Four styles of architecture, in one neighbourhood
The place to be seen in the Split of the mid-Twentieth Century.
A martyr for freedom from Fascism-and a Dalmatian

Vahida Magajlic was a Croatian Muslim, who fought the puppet regime that was installed by the Nazis in Croatia. She gave her life for the freedom of Croatia-and of all Yugoslavia.

We took many steps up Marjan Hill. (Mar YAN).
View from first overlook, Marjan Hill

Boris enjoys coming up here, when he needs peace and quiet.

Boris at Marjan Hill’s Botanical Garden
The Adriatic, from atop Marjan Hill

Orofessor Humbert Girometta was the man who spearheaded both this park and the promotion of hiking and wilderness training in the Split area. He was a mentor of Boris’ mentor.

Memorial to Dr. Humbert Girometta, Marjan Hill, Split
The Adriatic, from the third vantage point on Marjan Hill, Spli
Jewish Cemetery of Marjan Hill. Jews have been in Dalmatia since shortly after the destruction of the temple in Jerusalem, by the Romans.

We next had a delectable Croatian lunch, of beef in marinade, with a side of gnocchi and beet salad. Ice cream, dipped in chocolate, at Split’s oldest ice cream parlour, followed.

Next were the northern and western sides of Diocletian’s Palace

The exterior of the north side of Diocletian’s Palace
Archway, north side of Diocletian’s Palace
Entrance to North Courtyard
Again, three styles of architecture in one building.
The grand north courtyard, Diocletian’s Palace

Here is the most astonishing view: The vestibule of Diocletian’s Palace, which once led to his living quarters.

Vestibule, Diocletian’s Palace
Underneath the palace

We closed out this extraordinary day with a visit to Split’s Athletes’ Walk of Fame. Many of Croatia’s stellar athletes came from Split.

Toni Kukoc, “The Croatian Sensation” of NBA fame
Goran Ivanesevic, a great tennis player

With a few more views of the Walk of Fame, I bid farewell to my friend, Boris and headed back towards Hotel Pax, and a restful night, before the next leg of the journey: Bosnia and Hercegovina. Split will long shine in my heart.

The Road to Diamond, Day 307: Auschwitz-Birkenau

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September 30, 2025, Oswiecim, Poland Today would have been Penny’s 71st birthday. Each year since I first met her, including the fourteen years since her passing, the day always brings a special event, either Baha’i teaching or a visit of significance.

Entrance to Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum

Today, I had the opportunity to visit the sites of one of the darkest chapters in human history. Auschwitz and Birkenau were concentration camps, separated by 3 kilometers, but under the same commander: The infamous Rudolf Hoss (not to be confused with Deputy Fuhrer Rudolf Hess), implemented the use of Zyklon B, a pesticide that became the nerve agent which alone killed a million people. Hoss was tried, convicted and executed in Poland, in 1947. (Rudolf Hess, as is well-known, flew to Scotland, believing he could convince Scottish “opponents” of the War to hasten British withdrawal from World War II. The Scots were not amused, Hess was imprisoned and then transferred to Germany’s Spandau Prison, in 1947. He was the sole remaining prisoner there, when he committed suicide, in 1987, at age 93.)

My late father-in-law was a Jewish-American, served as a soldier in the final months of World War II, during which he was captured during the tail-end of the Battle of the Bulge, and was held in the POW camp at Berga, in eastern Germany. I have been to Berga and seen the V-2 Rocket Factory’s remains. Pop was sent to work the salt mines. When he was rescued by a unit of American soldiers, in June, 1945, he was nearly skeletal.

That was the fate of many, if not most, of the survivors of Auschwitz and Birkenau, as well. They numbered about 6200, out of over 1,100,000 who had been held in at the Auschwitz Complex. Jews, who Hitler and his henchmen wanted above all to exterminate, were the preponderance of victims. Men between the ages of 17-60 were made to work, usually until they were broken, physically and mentally. They were then executed. Women, children, the elderly and the infirm, including the mentally ill, were summarily gassed to death.

Besides the Jews, Romany, Russians, Poles, Czechs, Freemasons and the occasional Afro-Germans, were also sent to concentration camps, and executed by poison gas. Auschwitz and Birkenau were the two largest facilities for such hideous practices. in time, even Christian critics of Hitler found themselves in the gas chambers. Birkenau, being the larger camp, had 30 gas chambers. Auschwitz, with four sectors, had ten. As the Soviet forces closed in on Auschwitz, the fleeing German Army forced most of the remaining prisoners west, on a Death March to Germany and Austria. Thus did many die on their feet, though not as many as were gassed.

Here are five scenes that are here to remind us that the Holocaust was no Hologram.

“Barracks” # 1, Auschwitz
Torture House,, Auschwitz
Women and children victims, on their way to the gas chambers. (They had been told they were on their way to a glorious new life.)
Discarded children’s shoes and a father’s suitcase, with his son’s name written on it.
Hana Reiner would not let herself be forgotten. https://www.writeoutloud.net/public/blogentry.php?blogentryid=139212
The Nazis themselves destroyed this barracks, rather than allow it to be preserved by the Soviets and Poles,for what it had been,

I thought back to the early morning, when I boarded a train in Krakow, bound for the city of Oswiecim, (the Polish name which was translated into German as Auschwitz). A mentally disabled man chose to sit across from me. He was an Italian, who had little vocabulary, in any language. He knew “English” and “Deutsch”, as well as a few words in Italian and Spanish. While he was annoying to the young man sitting by the window and the well-dressed Italian man who sat across the aisle, I let him show me the soccer games on his phone. At the end of the one-hour trip, he cheerfully said “Grazie!” and went on his way.

That gentle man would not have had a chance to ride the rails, in Hitler’s Germany. He’d have ended up in the pile of corpses found by the Russians, or in one of the piles of ashes that were dumped in the Vistula River or behind the Subcommandant’s House at Birkenau. He can ride the rails, as he pleases, in today’s Europe, not being harmed and harming no one,

Auschwitz-Birkenau, and all places like it, are needed reminders of exactly what levels of depravity can come from a deluded pursuit of false perfection.

NEVER FORGET!

The Road to Diamond, Day 306: Overworked Treasure

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September 29, 2025, Krakow- The guard was unequivocal: “No, this ticket is only for the tower. Cathedral is off limits.” I had read that Krakow, like Venice and Barcelona, was getting tired of the hordes of people streaming in and overwhelming the most popular sites. Here was very strong proof of the toll that being loved too much is taking on several places around the world, where each new face just wants one more selfie. Besides, the Cathedral is one of the world’s great religious art museums. I should have come here first.

I had already been in several historic sites in Krakow today, so not seeing Wawel Cathedral was not going to ruin my visit. The nearby castle had closed at 3, and the proprietors of Wawel complex are finding that the underground area is in need of a break from visitors. They put a cap on the number of people allowed down there, and had reached it, by the time I arrived.

I am determined, among other things, to be an ambassador for goodwill and to honour the work which people in the communities on my itinerary are doing, whether it is serving visitors or as part of the normal life of a community. The Wawel team is among those who have put up with a lot, especially in the travel explosion that has followed the 2020 Pandemic. I went with what the tired ticket clerk set for me-and indeed, there was nothing about going into the Cathedral. I walked around outside for several minutes, then left. It was getting towards evening, anyway.

The day started with my anticipated roommate finally showing up, at 7:20 a.m, after what sounded like an enervating train ride. I left him to get a good sleep, and had breakfast downstairs. The day outside began with a short walk from Meininger Hostel to Old Town Krakow. First stop was Corpus Christi Church, built on the orders of Polish King Kasimir III, in 1335. It is one of three impressive houses of worship in Old Town.

Corpus Christi Church, Kasimierz District of Krakow
Front of Corpus Christi Church, Kasimierz District, Krakow

The interior is meticulously maintained. There were a few ladies inside, engaged in their devotions, so I was careful in choosing places to share here. Kasimir III loved to showcase gold, so the most striking scenes of Corpus Christi are accented in the metal.

Interior of Corpus Christi Church, Old Town Krakow
Notice the light colours of the archways, contrasting with the darker wooden cabinets.
More gold, at the altar (above and below)
More of the golden altar
Monastery at Corpus Christi Church, Old Town Krakow. This was occupied by the Canons Regular of the Lateran, who King Kasimier had brought in from the older town of Klodzko.

I needed a little coffee break, so Green Times, just up the street from Corpus Christi, had a good organic brew.

Green Times Coffee House, Old Town Krakow

I didn’t need a hospital, but there is large one in Old Town.

Szipital Zakonu Bonifrarow SW Jana Grandego (Zakonu Hospital), Old Town Krakow

I came next to the divider and lifegiver: Beautiful Mother Vistula

Vistula River, Krakow

The fish look happy!

Vistula River, Krakow

An exercise yard for adults!

Public Park, near St. Rita’s Church, Old Town Krakow

The new part of town beckons.

Balon Krakow Widowky (Sightseeing Balloon of Krakow), across the Vistula
Church of St, Rita, Old Town Krakow

As Mass was being said, I did not go in.

Church of St, Michael the Archangel and St. Stanislaus, Old Town Krakow

This turned out to be my final church visit of the day. The structure was blessed, many times, by this man.

St. John Paul II
Interior, Church of St.Michael and St. Stanislaus, Old Town Krakow

Outside, there is a courtyard, where several bishops of the church are laid to rest and memorialized.

Courtyard Memorial Garden, Church of St. Michael and St. Stanislaus, Old Town Krakow

I came next to Rynek Glowny (Main Market Square), the heart of Old Town.

Rynek Glowny (Main Market Square), Old Town Krakow. Not a whole lot was going on today, it being Monday and a bit rainy.

After a bowl of oatmeal, at Krakow’s branch of Grain Cafe, I went back to Meininger and rested a bit. It was around three, that I got the urge to walk over to Wawek Castle. It was a pleasant walk of about 15 minutes. Here is a view of the castle, from the base of the hill.

Wawel Palace, Krakow

The place is an essential locus of Polish history, having been a fortress of the Vistulan tribe, as early as 800 A.D. It became the center of a Polish nation, in the Tenth Century. A castle was built in the heart of the earlier fortress, and several churches, those of St. Gereon, St. George, and another one of St,Michael, were built around the Cathedral. A large statue of a fire-breathing dragon is on the grounds, though I did not find it.

Vistula River, from the Tower, Wawel Palace

Here are a few photos of the fortress itself.

Watchtower, Wawel Royal Castle
View from Tower, Wawel Royal Castle, Krakow
View from tower, Wawel Royal Palace, Krakow

Once down from the Tower, and having been denied entry into the Cathedral, I at least got the outside of the edifice.

Wawel Cathedral, Krakow

Near the southeast area of the complex, the Great Wall safeguarded the place for a time, being eventually scaled by Swedish troops.

Wall around old town, Wawel Castle, Krakow

With that, I said farewell to Wawel Castle, and headed back to check on R and enjoy a restful evening, as tomorrow will not require an early departure, being an afternoon appointment at Auschwitz_Birkenau.

The Road to Diamond, Day 305: Standing Room Only

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September 28, 2025, Krakow– “Where do I get the train to Krakow?”, I asked a conductor, after getting off the train that had brought me from Berlin to Poznan, in western Poland. “Go downstairs to Platform 10.”, was all she said. Many European train platforms have two tracks, which go in directions opposite each other. This reduces the need for multiple platforms, each with a track that only goes one way. I knew this, but looking at my watch, seeing it was close to departure for the Krakow train and seeing a train that lots of people were getting off and on, I put two and two together and got…five.

When I got to the cabin which had my seat number, I found it was occupied by a family of four, with the younger son in “my” seat. I went out of the cabin and was met by an older Polish woman, who “knew” that was my seat “by rights”. We got underway, with me in standage, where I was chatted up by a couple, who were happy that someone from Arizona was visiting Poland. The husband asked to look at my ticket, and gasped. “You go north now, instead of south! You must get off at next station, and catch train back to Poznan, then good luck getting to Krakow!” That explained the young boy sitting in his rightful seat.

I got off at the next station, reversed course, got on a Krakow-bound train from Poznan, and took my place among university students and poorer older adults, in Standage, all the way to Krakow, five hours south. Of course, I didn’t stand the whole way. I had my rolling suitcase, and a relatively clean section of floor on which to sit. When people needed to get on or off, at the ensuing stations, we in Standage had to make room for them. This made a few of the students quite surly-but surely they know this is part of the deal. Most, though, seemed concerned for one another, on a couple of occasions consoling those who were openly distraught. Not speaking Polish,I kept my mouth shut, the whole way, and was “welcomed” by the conductors, none of whom were concerned with why I was there.

I got to Krakow around 11 p.m. and caught a taxi to Meininger Hostel, part of a chain of hotels and hostels across central Europe. It is a lovely establishment, and while the city itself is rather tired of mass tourism, I was cheerfully welcomed by those I encountered on the street and at the hostel. I had the room to myself for the night, as the young man who was to be my roommate had his own tale of train woe and would not be arriving until early tomorrow morning. Thus, another decent end was found, to a strange day.

Meininger Hostel (above and below)

The Road to Diamond, Day 304: The Streets of Berlin

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September 27, 2025, Berlin- Today was a momentous day, for both me and for Berlin itself. After breakfast at St. Christopher’s, I headed over to Berlin TV Tower. From the observation deck, on the 21st floor, I had a panoramic view of about half of Brandenburg. The great city never should have been divided, but since it was, there are remnants of the Wall barely visible from this vantage point. Brandenburg Gate is also discernible, to say nothing of the prominent buildings, like Berlin Cathedral (I saw the exterior), St. Nikolai Kirke (also could only view outside) and the Bundestag (off-limits, for the reason I will mention in a bit).

Once down from the tower, I headed to Berlin’s oldest neighbourhood, Nikolai Platz. I spotted the original spelling of the name of some extended family members, attached to the name of a museum, in what is described as Berlin’s oldest standing house, built between 1759-1761. Knoblauchhaus, the creation of Johann Kristian Knoblauch, a merchant of hooks and sockets, and of his builder sons, Carl and Christian. The family business continued, and thrived, under Carl’s watchful eyes. He became friends with several other prominent Berliners, including the brothers Wilhelm and Alexander von Humboldt, whose surname graces the city’s prominent university.

View of Berlin TV Tower, from St. Christopher’s Inn
View of Old Berlin, from Observation Deck, Berlin TV Tower
View of River Spree, from Observation Deck, Berlin TV Tower

I was able to spend time in Marienkerke(St. Mary’s Church), as the planned demonstrations had not begun to form.

Marienkirche (St, Mary’s Church), Berlin
Interior of Marienkerke, Berlin (above and below)
Statue of Martin Luther, near St. Mary’s Church
Rotes Rathaus (Berlin City Hall), about a block south of Marienkerke
St. Nicholas’ Church, in Nikolaiplatz (Oldest Berlin neighbourhood). You can barely see the guard at the door to St. Nikolai’s. He was there to turn away visitors.

I could not enter St. Nikolaikerke. I was able to visit Museum Knoblauchhaus. I got a lot of insight into one of Berlin’s oldest families, who were merchants, builders and patrons of art and science. They knew the brothers Wilhelm and Alexander von Humboldt, for whom Berlin’s great university is named. (Carl Heinrich) Eduard Knoblauch was an eminent builder in Berlin, in the mid-19th Century, designing and initiating the building of Berlin Synagogue, along with dozens of family homes.

One of the branches of my extended family has a variation of the name, Knoblauch.

Museum Knoblauchaus (Oldest house still standing in Berlin)

I also could not enter the great cathedral, nor could I visit the greater portion of the Museum of German History, because of this: 50,000 people, give or take, were taking part in the largest protest march I have ever witnessed.

Berlin speaks out

The focus was on Gaza and the ongoing military operation there. Yes, I stayed on the sidelines and minded my business. Besides,the Berlin police were there, peacefully, in force. It remained a peaceful event, from all accounts, but I focused on making my way back to the hostel, after an insightful two hours at two special exhibits of the Museum of German History.

Berlin Cathedral, on River Spree

The first exhibit pondered the question, “What if things had turned out differently, in the decades leading up to and during, World War II? ” It presented the causes of the Fascist takeover, and the various events that occurred under Hitler, as well as the long aftermath, up to German reunification. It asked several questions: “Suppose someone other than von Hindenburg had led Germany after the Versailles Treaty was signed? ” “What if Hitler HAD been assassinated?” “What if Patton HAD gone all the way to Moscow?” “What if there had been no policy of Ostpolitik, in the 1970s and early ’80s?”

The second exhibit showed various aspects of the Nazi occupation in Europe, with a particular focus on Poland, the former Czechoslovakia and France. There was no sugar-coating of what was done, so this exhibit made for a tough, but well-crated, prelude to my coming visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Back at St.Christopher’s, there was little talk of the march downtown. The focus was all on soccer and rugby finals. I enclosed myself in my own world, and focused on this blog-and on my e-mails. Those were enough, after a momentous day.

The Road to Diamond, Day 303: The (Rail)Road to Berlin

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September 26, 2025, Berlin- “Well now, that is certainly a rude awakening”, the burly leader of a group of German tourists huffed, as the news came over the loudspeaker that one of the cars on our train to Hamburg, from Kolding, DK, had broken down and that those of us (including me) who were scheduled to be on that train would now either have to ride in Standage or wait for a replacement car. He gathered the group, and held a brief consultation, while looking at me. A minute later, he told me that, as one of their group had dropped out of the trip, there was a seat in their cabin, and I was welcome to take it.

It turned out to be a most pleasant two hours. I even was offered, and accepted the no-show’s sandwich, which had been purchased, freshly made, from a delicatessen in the Aarhus area, earlier in the morning. Chicken salad with bacon is a favourite in Denmark and Germany. It was divine.

The day had started with my walking the .9 mile from Roberta’s Society Hostel to Aarhus Train Station. The challenge came onboard, when I had to remember how to call up the Rail Planner application on my phone, which contained my actual ticket to Berlin, with the seat reservations only supplementary. The conductor, at one point, wanted to see a QR code on the RP page, but was overruled by her supervisor, who saw that as a waste of time. Good thing, as Rail Planner doesn’t provide QR Codes for its Rail Pass system.

With that behind me, one of my seat mates on the first leg (Aarhus to Kolding) opined that she had never heard of a QR code for a train ticket. She was Gen Z, so that pretty much settled the matter. Kids can pretty much do any transaction on a phone that can be done.

Once in Hamburg, I bid farewell to the German tour group and settled in for a smooth, non-eventful final leg to Berlin Hauptbanhof (Central Station). It took my usual fussing at Spectrum’s stingy Internet service (non-existent outside North America) and scrambling to find a shop or cafe whose WiFi I could use to get directions to St. Christopher’s Hostel from Central Station, over a period of thirty-five minutes, before I settled on the S-bahn (Streetcars). I ended up at Alexanderplatz, where a Tourist Office worker gave me directions for walking the rest of the way. I found the hostel, which has a bar and grill attached, in short order (no pun intended, especially as John Belushi would have either groaned or thrown something at me). St,. Christopher’s and Belushi’s are teamed up in various cities around Europe. Chain hostels, including Generator (my Copenhagen digs), are quite the rage.

The Berlin hostel is in an old building, so it has its challenges, but I like the vibe here. The Rugby championships and various soccer matches are on the TV screens, so it wouldn’t be a dull 1 1/2 days, even if I opted to sit in the hostel all day. That is not happening. I will be out and about, exploring Berlin’s oldest neighbourhood and possibly seeking out remnants of the Berlin Wall-a reminder of what happens to attempts to separate people on artificial grounds.

Here’s the hostel.

St, Christopher’s Inn, Berlin

The Road to Diamond, Day 302: Denmark’s Second City

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September 25, 2025, Aarhus- The gathering was much larger than I had anticipated-and the kitchen manager apologetically told me there was no more room in the dining area during the Communal Dining session. I had come here to see how Danes manage their Slow Food movement.

Staying for the presentation afterward, all in Danish, of course, but worth watching for the dynamics, I enjoyed Miso Lasagna, with the healthful Japanese paste taking the place of cheese. There were organic ground beef and squash lasagna noodles, to round out the dish.

Here is a photo of one of the breakout groups, who discussed the benefits of communal food preparation and dining.

Communal Dining Presentation, at Roberta’s Society Hostel, Aarhus

We have similar gatherings, from time to time, in Prescott and this weekend, in Sacramento, there is a Slow Food Americas festival, with dozens of breakout groups and presentations, celebrating the benefits of healthful food production, sustainable agriculture and animal husbandry and careful composting.

Roberta’s Society Hostel, Aarhus

Roberta was not a person, as such, but a name attached to a concept: The Kalpin brothers, Danish entrepreneurs, established the hostel in a former library. The idea was to get away from the standard “locals shall not stay in hostels” policy that has been in place around the world for many decades, and bring people together in community, thus communal dining and other positive gatherings are regularly held at Roberta’s Society.

ARoS Aarhus Art Museum

The museum with a rainbow roof was designed by Danish/Icelandic artist, Olafur Eliasson. It is one of the reasons that Roberta’s is fairly easy to find, being just to the west of ARoS, near the northern portion of Aarhus’ tree-lined park. The city is fairly bustling,as any second-largest city would have to be, but Roberta’s is actually within walking distance of the train station.

I found that out, only after catching a bus and learning Aarhus’ unique phone-app based bus fare payment system. That involved going to three different 7-11 stores (The chain is big in Denmark) and finally getting a clerk to sell me a card that is affiliated with the phone app.

Walking close to Roberta’s, I captured a few of Aarhu’s older buildings, including this stately bank building.

Old Bank building, Central Aarhus

Aarhus embraces the new, in sculpture, as well as in cuisine. Here is Phil Price’s “Snake, Aarhus, 2253”.

Arhus is another fascinating place that would be worth 2-3 more days. Alas, I have promises to keep……..Next up, Berlin.

The Road to Diamond, Day 301, Part III: The King’s Garden of Roses

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September 24, 2025, Copenhagen- Kongen Have, the King’s Garden, was the third place where I experienced quiet today. It was certainly filled with people, but it was day’s end. People were quietly jogging, sitting on a blanket enjoying a picnic supper or closer to Rosenberg Palace, walking among the flowers for which the edifice is named.

Roses, near Rosenberg Palace
Rosenberg Palace-It was closed by the time I got here, but the grounds were well worth the walkabout. So, too, was the main section of this salubrious public space.
Foreground of King’s Garden
Fashioned boulders, arranged in a triangle
The garden runs the gamut, from wild….
to the sculpted and curated.

All was calm and bright, even in the gloaming.

Rosenberg Palace, across the moat. Ariel was a bit off my path, but she would feel right at home here, especially in the moat!

The mandarin ducks were certainly delighted!

With that came the realization that my Copenhagen visit is coming to a close. An all-too-brief visit to the “foodie city” of Aarhus is next, and a visit to Berlin will give me a sense of another of the world’s great cities. I am sure there will be some special moments in each. Stay tuned!

The Road to Diamond, Day 301: More Jewels of Kronen, Part II

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September 24, 2025, Copenhagen– The amazing thing about today was the three instances of almost total quiet that enveloped a place where I happened to be, even though there were large numbers of people about.

First was Kastellet, a one-time regal fortress that was totally given over to the Danish military, following World War II. It had been fortified after a Swedish siege of Copenhagen, in the Seventeenth Century, but proved an effective deterrent against the British, in 1704. Today, I was impressed with the intensity of Danish troops engaged in individual and group training. Kastellet’s archives detail the various occasions in which Denmark has contributed to peacekeeping activities, since World War Ii. The nation is a vital part of NATO, and of United Nations peacekeeping efforts. It behooves other nations to keep this in mind.

Moat at Kastellet, Copenhagen
Another visitor from North America-a Great Blue Heron!
Another view of the moat and ramparts, Kastellet
A view of the wall
Commander’s House
Barracks, Kastellet
Citadel Church
Dutch-style windmill-replaced an earlier mill that was destroyed in a storm.

After leaving Kastellet, I had only to walk a short distance before noticing a large dome. This turned out to be Frederiks Kirke, and it is the largest domed church in Scandinavia. Once inside, all are to maintain silence-and we all did. Soft, soothing music was the only sound. No loudly-clicking cameras or flash photography are permitted inside, either.About seventy of us were inside, and quiet.

Frederiks Kirke

After spending about twenty minutes in the great church, I went across the street to the large complex of palaces, which punctuate Frederikssgade. Below are the palaces, in a clockwise direction.

Amalianborg, on the left, with Christian VIII’s palace to the right.
Frederik VIII’s Palace
Christian IX’s palace

I left the quiet atmosphere of the royal courtyard, and went back to the bustle of Old Town, via the Yellow Palace, which now houses many offices of the Danish government.

Yellow Palace, Copenhagen

It was time to get a bit of supper, and reflect. Ironically, both would take me the third place of solitude- Kongen Have (King’s Garden) More on this bit of heaven, in the next post.