The Road to 65, Mile 75: Florida’s Overlooked Story

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February 11, 2015, Tallahassee-  Many people come to the Sunshine State for its modernities and for-sunshine. This time of year, there is plenty of sunshine, though Florida can’t entirely escape the cold that plagues the rest of the continent.  There will be two cold snaps, before the region reverts to its signature mildness.  When it’s like this, I focus on the inside scoop- What do a region’s historical treasures have to tell us about the area as it is today?

Most people are aware that Florida was ruled by the Spanish, for about 200 years.  They are also aware that there are Indigenous people, called Seminoles, who had a wise and clever leader named Osceola and that these people fought three wars with the U.S. Government.  Some will know that there are a different group of Indigenous people, called Miccosukee, who are descended from the Calusa and Mayaimi nations, who lived in South Florida, prior to the Spanish arrival.

Few know, however, that the Calusa, and the Apalachee of the northwest, were powerful and well-organized nations.  The Apalachee chiefs recognized that the Spanish had strong medicine to fight the diseases against which Indigenous North Americans had no immunity.  So, they invited the Spanish to teach their people about Christianity and to use European medicine to fight the new afflictions.  They also wanted the Spanish to help defend them against British and Creek warriors, invading from the north.  The British and Creeks won, though, and the Creeks became Seminoles, living around Lake Okeechobee.

The Calusa, though, became suspicious of the Spanish, when a 16th Century rendition of the Mariel Boatlift arrived on their shores, near today’s Fort Myers.  The Taino people fled wholesale slaughter by the Spanish in Cuba and came, in hundreds of dugout canoes, to the land otaf the Calusa. The Calusa never really warmed to Europeans, as you might imagine.

These are a couple of Florida tidbits, revealed at the Florida Museum of Natural History, which I visited on Tuesday, at the Museum of Florida History, which I toured this afternoon- and Mission San Luis de Talimali, where I spent the morning and early afternoon.  The latter two are both in Tallahassee, and are part of a renewed push by the state to focus on its rich heritage.

Here are several photos which will give you an idea of the marvels that await at Mission San Luis- a true Living History facility.  It offers classes in metallurgy, tool-making, Spanish and Apalachee cooking, and foraging for plants in the moss-laden forest.

We start with the relatively new Visitor Center, which replaced the early 20th Century Messer House, now a costume-making center and office building, in 1983.

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This is one of the depictions of a Crucified Christ that was presented to the Apalachee converts, by the Franciscan friars who established Mission San Luis.

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Here is an outside view of the Mission Church.  Note the roof thatch, which is the same material as covers the Council House of the Apalachee.

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The inside is quite spare, with no semblance of ornate flooring. The floor is sand, as is the case in the friary, the kitchen and the Council House.  Woven mats were used to keep the dust down, with varying degrees of success.

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Like the Church, the Friary had a window in the attic, for heat release.  The inside temperature reflected the seasons. Today, all the preserved mission buildings were cold inside.

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This was the friary kitchen.

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Cooking was done with this charcoal oven.

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Spanish Moss covers many of the evergreens and laurels, throughout the Southeastern  states.

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Two journeyman blacksmiths were breakng down their shop for the day, but graciously answered my questions, as to the nature of their work at the Mission, which is primarily tool-making, as opposed to farriership.  The Master Blacksmith does repair munitions, though.

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This blacksmith shows two pot hooks, with grooved grips that allow the cooks to lift the pot off the stove or out of the cookfire, in the absence of hot pads.  The heat does not conduct through the grooves.SAM_3958

This is Fort San Luis, where a garrison of Spanish and Apalachee troops were housed and trained.

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The men slept on mats, atop platforms, in the style of the Apalachee people.  It is said that the Apalachee figured fleas could not jump higher than five feet.  This is quite debatable, as fleas have been observed in labs, jumping ten feet or more.

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Note the points on the fence poles.

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This alligator skull graces the northwest corner of the fort grounds.

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A nature trail borders the southern edge of the Mission grounds.

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This spring house was built by American planters, and abandoned in the 1930’s.SAM_3983

The house of the Deputy Governor houses His Excellency, his wife and at least five of their ten children, at any given time.  The two adults slept in the tiny bed, the baby in a cradle and the older children on floor mats. A cook was on hand today, to explain the  extensive use of herbs, both for cooking and to rid the house of odors.  She also showed the carpentry area, where wooden spoons, as well as furniture, were produced.  Ceramics of the Apalachee were rounded; those of the Spanish were flat.SAM_3992

Here is the Apalachee Council House.  Like public buildings today, it was a regular gathering place for the community, and could hold as many as 2,000 people.

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There was one entrance, warriors checked their weapons at the door, greeted the Chief, who sat on the highest platform, and sat either on lower platforms or on the floor.

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Deer skins were used to cover the Chief’s and Elders’ platforms.

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For contrast, here are the Florida State Capitol and Supreme Court buildings.

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There is a lot about the early peoples of Florida that we have yet to decipher, and from which we could still learn.

The Road to 65, Mile 74: Reversing Course and Meeting Butterflies

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February 10, 2015, Gainesville, FL-This has been one of those days when I am reminded that deeds done by others, with the best of intentions, can backfire and take innocent people down with them.  It just makes me weigh my own words and deeds that much more carefully. In a nutshell, my mother-in-law said she didn’t want any visitors, including me.

I was ten miles away, at that point, and so turned around, in south Ocala, feeling quite calm, actually.  I think my angel was carrying me through the rest of the day.  I had two confirmations:  One was stopping at Jim’s BBQ Pit, in Reddick, just north of Ocala.  A bubbly, very pretty young lady served me as if she were serving her father, or a favourite uncle.  The food was comfort, also:  Smoked chicken, barbecued beans and slaw, with a fabulous house barbecue sauce.

The second stop of the afternoon was Florida Museum of Natural History, on the campus of the University of Florida, at Gainesville.  The institution traces the state’s varied conditions and changes, focusing on the Pleistocene and on some of the Indigenous peoples, who pre-dated the Seminole and were ancestors of the Miccosukee.  The icing on the cake, for me this afternoon, was the Butterfly Rain Forest.

The Pleistocene exhibit’s star is the Colombian mammoth skeleton.  Colombian mammoths ranged south of their woolly cousins, and had finer hair.

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A Mastodon was featured next to the shovel-tusker, for comparison.  Mastodons ranged in north Florida, as well.

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A family of Paleo-Indians was shown in the next hall. Florida’s indigenous people had a very rich culture and system of governance, well before Europeans arrived here.  The Apalachee, of the northwest, and the Calusa, of the southwest, were powerful, savvy and industrious people, pre-dating the great council-oriented Creeks, who became Seminoles, once they came down to Florida, with the British, in the 1700’s.

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My attention was spotty at this point, so while I read and absorbed some of the remaining information about the Native Peoples, I needed nature.  So, off to the Butterfly Rain Forest it was.  The following pictures, presented without comment, represent a cross-section of the Lapidoptera and their surroundings.  See how many butterflies you can spot.

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Butterflies are vital, in a variety of ways.  There is some attention here to Monarchs, but also to Swallowtails and Blues.  I recommend this to all residents and visitors to the Gainesville-Ocala area.  After such a rejuvenating afternoon, I headed north and spent a restful night in Bainbridge, GA, north of Tallahassee.  Glen Oaks Motel and a salad from Zaxby’s, served by another pretty, congenial young lady, capped the day.  Actually, a Zalad can make three meals, for someone like me.