Flamed Out

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July 27, 2024, Susanville, CA- The river that was named for Susan Roop is flowing nicely. The town that was named for the daughter of the area’s first settler is thriving, despite the fires that plague its surroundings. It is a sprawling, but comfortable town; auto-centered, but fairly easy to walk, as long as one doesn’t mind the 3/4 mile that exists between cross walks, along U.S. Highway 395, in the downtown sector.

I am comfortably ensconced in Apple Motel, with an appropriate scene outside my back window.

Chinese apple tree, Apple Inn, Susanville

The reserved, but kindly, couple were almost apologetic, but requested a cash payment for tonight’s lodging. A fire, started several days ago, by a deranged man who wanted to destroy the forest, is still far from here, but its smoke has limited visibility and activity, from just east of here, southwest to Quincy, and north to Bartle. It has rattled the residents of Paradise, which burned to the ground six years ago. It has closed Lassen Volcanic National Park and is threatening some iconic structures in that national treasure.

I was intending to re-visit Lassen today, along with several dozen other people, but a lunatic had other plans, and so we adjust. I was born under the fire sign, but have spent my life determined to use fire properly, as a tool and not as a weapon. The Wabenaki, from whom I am partially descended, employed fire carefully, to keep forests in order and in a state of health. I have taken that lesson seriously and have acted accordingly, in my own dealings with the element.

This area, from Mount Shasta to Pyramid Lake, strikes me as being sacred ground. It ought to be a place of reverence. Many of the people here in Susanville certainly feel this way-including the owners of this motel, the operators and wait staff at Kopper Kettle, the family restaurant where I got enough food to last me for three meals and the young people who were out and about, making the best of the slightly smoky downtown air. The sense of reverence was clear, in downtown Weed, from which Shasta may be seen, in its glory.

Mount Shasta, viewed from the north.

Reverence was ubiquitous in Old Station, a spot along the Pacific Crest Trail, where through hikers can get a good meal, shower and do laundry (I took advantage of that last one). It even showed in the confusion that a solitary driver expressed, when I signaled to him to turn back on the road to Lassen. It was most evident in the five wildland fire units that headed towards the national park, with the aim of defending places like Manzanita Lake and the Mineral Museum.

Lassen, Chico, Bartle and all threatened points in between, will rebuild from any fire damage-as communities most often do. Paradise has, and will again, if the Park Fire finds its way there. Lahaina is making steady progress, and so are the communities around the Mediterranean that have suffered great loss, in the wildfires of 2022-23. I am an eternal optimist and I am not alone.

The Road to 65, Mile 210: Oregon’s Multivariate “Big East”

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June 26, 2015, Lakeview, OR- This day started in the sere brownness of Ontario, in the heart of the Great Basin, above the Snake River.  It was not too hot, as I made my way over to Gandolfi’s New York-style Deli, the closest thing in the Riverside area of Ontario, to a coffee shop.  The fare was satisfying, though the atmosphere was more motel breakfast room than comfy cafe.

This is an irrigated agricultural area, and the landscape thus shows a striking contrast of colours.003 004

The small village of Vale, southwest of Ontario, is the seat of Malheur County, of which Ontario is the commercial hub.  Vale has a small historical museum, which was not open when I passed through, but was worth a look at the exterior. Eastern Oregon still has an Old West ambiance, in many places.

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The Malheur River waters the area, gathering its tributaries, west of Vale, then heading towards the Snake River, south of Ontario.

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After going through a barren section, once past the Malheur, there is a scrub pine forest that leads the way south, towards Burns.  This area reminded me a lot of central Arizona, just as the Snake River near Ontario resembles the Colorado, in western Arizona.014

Burns, named for the great Scottish poet, Robert Burns, is a quiet, but charming little town, about two hours east of Bend. I was warmly welcomed at Broadway Deli, a bustling local hangout with freshly-made soups and sandwiches.  The ranchers also say it has great breakfasts.  All I know is, I could have stayed all day.

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Once south of Burns, and its smaller sister city, Hines, the desert takes over again.  Ninety minutes later, I was in awe of the sere beauty of shrinking Lake Abert.  This alkaline lake is inhabited mostly by brine shrimp.

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There are numerous iron-oxide infused basalt boulders on its eastern shore, which the Oregon Outback Highway passes.

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Just as Oregon and California meet, the Warner Mountains look over Lakeview.  As I was coming into town, I spotted an Arabian horse, at the roadside fence, nervously shuffling on his back right haunch. Fearing he might be stuck, I went back to the driveway, where the owner went with me over to the pasture, and determined it was the beast’s arthritis acting up.  He was grateful for my concern, and hopefully tended to the poor creature.

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A section of California took me through the rest of the afternoon.  Alturas is a small gateway community, with an Ag-Inspection Station, a dusty main street and Hotel Niles, an early 20th Century railroad stop.

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I continued on, getting gas at the village of Standish and settling in for the night in Susanville, so named for the nearby Susan River.  Both are named for Susan Roop, the daughter of an early settler.  “Susan” was fairly lively when I first got there, as there was a country music festival at Lassen County Fairgrounds.  It wrapped up at 9 P.M., though, and most of the people there were my age or older.  It had been a lengthy drive today, and the car needed a good rest, so before checking out the tail-end of the hoedown, I had some fish fry at Kopper Kettle and took a room at nearby Frontier Inn.  Tomorrow, I will head over to Reno, for a day or so, and catch up with the Nevada Family.