From Home to Home, and Back, Day 3- Part 2: Van Buren is Not Boring

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I don’t know about President Van Buren, for whom the western Arkansas city is named, but there is little boring about this comfortable, welcoming and historic neighbour of Fort Smith.  After  a classic French dip lunch at Ed Walker’s, in FS,

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I made the short drive to Old Van Buren, and its Train Station Visitor Center.

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The premier collection in this small museum is of fine crystal glass.

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On July 21, 1985, Van Buren grabbed the attention of the world at large.  Let the National Transportation Safety Board tell the story:

“About 7:51 p.m. on June 21, 1985 a privately-owned, 70,000-pounnd tractor-semitrailer operating in interstate commerce under a trip-lease agreement with C. Maxwell Trucking Company, Inc., lost control while descending a steep 3,439-foot-grade on southbound State Route 59 in downtown Van Buren, Arkansas. The truck collided with the rear of, and overrode, a station wagon which was stopped at the bottom of the hill. The truck and the station wagon continued 84 feet forward, across an intersection, up a curb, and through a guardrail. They then traveled another 22 feet and struck two commercial buildings. A fire ensued and engulfed both vehicles and three buildings. Both occupants in the truck and the seven occupants in the station wagon were fatally injured.

The National Transportation Safety Board determines that the probable cause of this accident was the failure of the truckdriver to comply with regulatory signs and to properly use limited service brakes and transmission for speed control purposes, which permitted the tractor-semitrailer to accelerate to a high speed while descending the steep grade on State Route 59. Contributing to the accident were the improper adjustment of the vehicle’s service brakes due to inadequate vehicle maintenance; the truckdriver’s lack of experience, maturity, and training required for interstate truckdrivers; and the absence of an adequate surveillance and enforcement program for the trucking system. ”

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The community remembered the fallen, and moved on, while preserving the best of its past.

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It goes back to the old, one-room Pike School.

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It was sweet to cap this visit with a sweet, cool latte at Coffee and a Good Book.

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Finally, here’s a hint, that definitely did not come from Heloise (homemaker’s radio show, of the 1940’s).

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Next up:  Little Rock’s Riverfront

Pipestone, The Town

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I capped Monday, July 22, with a short tour of  the town of Pipestone, MN, a short three miles from the National Monument.  A tall iced tea helped me with the all-important message check, at this fine hotel, the Calumet.

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A drive around town showed some fine late 19th Century churches and civic buildings.

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This is no Lake Wobegon, though the women are strong, and lovely.

Home to Home, and Back, Day 3, Part 1: Fort Smith National Monument

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On Monday, August 26, I started the day with a couple of hours at the fort which established to stop fighting between  the indigenous Osage people and the Cherokee, who had been pushed into the area, by the policies of President Andrew Jackson.  Thus, Fort Smith is indelibly associated with the Trail of Tears.

The place is named for one Col. Thomas A. Smith, who commanded the fort at its establishment.  Another person by that name was a friend of mine, who recently passed on, so it was poignant to read of Col. Smith’s efforts at peacekeeping.

Here are some views of the grounds of this national monument, and of the River Trail, which follows the Arkansas River, along its path through western Arkansas’ commercial center.

We start with the Courthouse and Jails of the fort, now a museum.

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Here’s a view of one of the fortifications.

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Now, here’s a look at where bad actors spent their time, courtesy of Judge Isaac Parker.

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Here is a glimpse of Judge Parker’s dungeon,

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and one of his courtroom.

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The soldiers, then as now, had to parade in formation, before their superiors.

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The remnants of the original Fort Smith may be seen here and there.

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Here is the quartermaster’s store.

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Then we come to the gallows.

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The less said, the better about this place of ghoulish amusement.

My favourite section is the River Trail.  Oklahoma lies across the Arkansas River.

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At the end of River Trail lies Fort Smith Train Station.

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It does not take a train, though, to go the scant 17 miles to Van Buren, the next stop of mine on August 26.

Supplying the Spirit Quest, Part II: Pipestone, from Winniwissa Falls to the Quarries

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Several of you found Winniwissa Falls to be a delight, in your responses to my first post.  I did, as well, and in following the trail to the true treasure of Pipestone National Monument, learned of the value of this water, in softening the stone, so that it could be used for the ceremonial pipes that are so valued by Native Americans.

Here are scenes leading to the quarries, and the rock supplies themselves. Let’s start with the rim of Pipestone Canyon.

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Atop the rim, lies The Oracle.  Do not ask what it foretold!! 🙂

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We proceed from The Oracle to the quarries, some of which had catlinite.

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There are four main quarries at Pipestone, each serving a different grouping of tribes.

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Quartzite fixed quarry, the northernmost of the four quarries.

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Here is a view of the tallgrass prairie, which once covered most of the upper Midwest.

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Once one says farewell to Pipestone’s main section,

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it’s worthwhile to stop at Three Maidens, also a site sacred to the Sioux and other nations.

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This was also a point on the North American Spiritual Arc, as I have styled the points along my journey of late July.

Next: I ended July 22 with an hour or so in the town of Pipestone, a delight in itself.

Supplying the Spirit Quest, Part I: Pipestone, from the Visitor Center to Winniwissa Falls

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Coming into the grounds of Pipestone National Monument, MN, I had a sense of the importance of the stone from which ceremonial pipes were being made.  It is instructive to me that the Chippewa, Sac and Fox, Lakota Sioux and Yankton Sioux regularly quarry the stone, from three places on this site.

I toured the visitors center first, though quite frankly, I was not impressed with the staff, other than one of the young women rangers, who seemed genuinely glad I had stopped there.  The others were either perfunctory or rude, to varying degrees.  The natural area was much more satisfying, but then, that is why I came here in the first place.

Here are some scenes from the  trail network, which features a creekside walk, a clifftop view, and Winniwissa Falls.

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The place itself is fascinating, as is the concept of fashioning ceremonial pipe from cut quartz and catlinite.  More on the quarries will follow, in Part 2.

From Home to Home, and Back, Days 1 and 2: Prescott to Fort Smith

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I am going to post about my current trip, simultaneously with the remaining segments on my spiritual journey of last month.  The purpose of this long jaunt is more about specifically connecting with people- my family and my cyberfamily.  There were critical elements of that social connection in the last trip, also, but my struggle with myself took center stage.  There will be spiritual aspects on the current trip as well, especially when I stop for some hikes, on my way back west.

I had intended, on Saturday, August 24, to attend a picnic for my American Legion Post, until about 1 PM.  Rain intervened, and while I didn’t get out of town until 1, anyway, I drove as far as Santa Rosa, NM, before calling a halt to Day 1.  Here, I found a good motel, American Inn.

Santa Rosa and its sister city, Tucumcari, are good places to rest, going back and forth from Arizona to anywhere along the mid-southern corridor.

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There was someone waiting for me in Amarillo, though, so I did not avail myself of Santa Rosa’s blue lakes or Tucumcari’s dinosaur museum. I kept on, to the Blue Front Cafe, and an hour or two of banter with my old friend, Texas Tidbits, aka Wes H.

Once 2 PM rolled around, the cafe closed, Wes and I gabbed for about twenty more minutes outside, and I was on my way again.  After hearing from my Oklahoma City friends that everyone was either busy or sick, I rolled through the north Texas plains, which are rougher than you might think.  This is, after all Tejas, and nothing is all that easy, except the bantering.

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I stopped briefly at a Texas Travel Center, west of the hamlet of Alanreed, took the above two photos, and had a White Knight moment, helping a woman unlatch the hood of her Ford.  It took me about ten minutes of investigation before locating the latch release, but, one and done.  I was to cross the entire state of Oklahoma in one fell swoop, before landing for the night, at a Knight’s Inn, as luck would have it, in Fort Smith, AR.  One does, however, have to oblige the Sooner State with at least one photograph, however, so here is the Oklahoma Visitor Center, in Midwest City, where I stopped and said prayers for my sick Oklahoma friends, and for the people in Moore, who are still rebuilding.

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Next:  Fort Smith National Historic Site

Empty Spaces, Full Hearts

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Going across the length of South Dakota, one could easily get the impression there is a void, aching to be filled, either by hydraulic fracturing, as in its northern neighbour, or by patented corn, as in Nebraska, to the south.  In the midst of this seeming void, near the hamlet of Belvidere, I looked heavenward, and was answered by these:

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After a satisfying meal at JR’s Cafe, just off I-90, I drove on to Mitchell, best known as the hometown of the late Senator George McGovern.  I got a good night’s sleep and spent the first part of the morning looking around Mitchell’s downtown.  Here, one finds the Corn Palace, a favourite of families with school-age children.

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You can see, it’s impressive and kitschy at the same time.  Also impressive, at least to me, is the left-over steam pipe from an old school building, on the south edge of downtown.

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While I enjoyed a nice lunch at Grandma Max’s, in Sioux Falls, and enjoyed the banter of the truck drivers as they flirted with a pretty waitress, I did not have time to explore South Dakota’s largest city.  My destination on Monday, July 22 was Pipestone National Monument.  So, I drove over that way, via a back road that took me through Garretson, SD, and scenes like this;

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Something tells me that the farms, and their steadfast, hardworking adherents, will be back.  The good people of the soil have always ebbed and flowed like prairie grass.

Next:  Pipestone National Monument, MN