The Road to 65, Mile 190: Northwestward, Day 11- In The Realm of The Spirit Bear

June 6, 2015, Princess Royal Island, BC- The ferry rocked us gently to sleep on the first night.  The second night, I decided to take my shower at night, around 11 P.M.  When I got back, a shift in the wind had brought rain onto the Solarium deck- and onto my left-hand neighbour’s cot.  So, she ended up in the closed, but warm and dry snack bar area, for the rest of the night.  My area, and her husband’s, remained dry.

This was the sole awful experience that seemed to have occurred on this leg of the trip.  The food was standard, but decently prepared.  There was rain, of course, throughout both days, but this is the upper northwest- and besides, it had been sunny up here for almost three weeks, even as it was raining and snowing in Arizona- and the rather paltry topsoil of the northwest coast was drying out.  So the rain is a blessing for the area’s people, and a minor inconvenience to us travelers.

Today would have been our thirty-third wedding anniversary.  Penny and I had sometimes spoken of heading up this way.  Neah Bay and Port Angeles, both of which I visited in 2012, Vancouver Island, Haida Gwaii and southeast Alaska were among the places in which we wanted to spend time.  My realization of these, going solo, is. like anything else worth doing, incremental.

My journeys need to result in heart connections and in the filtering out of my own barriers to growth.  These are sometimes things I can do alone, but other times are things that need to be pointed out to me by others- sometimes by friends and other times by less amiable people.  So far, this sojourn, even in tight quarters, with several rather surly people, has been peaceful.  I have made several friends, from among the passengers, and at least one crew member, who I helped bail out of what might have been a scalding hot mishap.

The mist-shrouded coast of Vancouver Island, and the smaller realms which bound the Canadian segment of the Inside Passage, were our guides for nearly two days.  Among them is Princess Royal Island, one of the homes of the Kermode, or Spirit, Bear- a white or blond Black Bear. Between 10-20% of all Black Bears are Kermodes. We did not see any Kermodes on this trip, but there is always my return trip, June 17-19.

We did see occasional humpback whales, dolphins and eagles, along this route.  Most of the time, though, it was the islands themselves which made the time interesting. So, from among the two-hundred or so photos I took yesterday afternoon and  today, here are some of the highlights.

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Meet the MV/Columbia, our home for the next two days.

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A look back at Fairhaven, the old port that was annexed by Bellingham.

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Mount Baker bids us farewell.

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Our ship’s wake lasts several hundred yards.

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My space, among the teeming masses.

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We passed through many ends, coves and fishing villages.

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Most other vessels were fishing-oriented.  This Holland America Ocean Liner was the only cruise vessel we saw, en route, whilst passing through Queen Charlotte Sound.

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British Columbia is blessed with seemingly endless coastal forests.

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Majestic bald eagles abound in B.C. and in Alaska.  This fellow had taken up residence, near a fisherman’s homestead.

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Coastal tribespeople extend a cautious welcome. Trust must always be earned, over time.

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The majestic Coast Ranges are a major reason why there is no direct highway between Vancouver and Prince Rupert.

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Timber, along with fish, is an economic mainstay of the far Pacific Northwest.  Both must be made sustainable.

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A river runs through Princess Royal Island, one of the two largest in the northern part of BC’s Inland Passage.

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It is here that Kermode Black Bears are most likely to be spotted.  None was visible here, when we passed by.

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The cleavage left by retreating glaciers resulted in magnificent scenery, but shallow topsoil.  The forests find a way to thrive.

So, I was able to mark yet another anniversary in a way which Penny would have loved.

4 thoughts on “The Road to 65, Mile 190: Northwestward, Day 11- In The Realm of The Spirit Bear

  1. Sorry it was so rainy — we’ve been reading about heat waves in Alaska! It’s beautiful, majestic country, and the animals match the majesty! When I worked at U of Washington, many of our students would earn their year’s tuition in a month or two by working the fisheries or lumber industries in Alaska. I understand that’s not as possible now, as timber has decreased and tuition has increased!

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  2. Rain is part of the experience, and the thing is- the soil is geologically young. It is, therefore, not deep, and so it dries out fast. The constant rain will be necessary for at least another 5,000 years, until the lichen and subsoil break down the rock.

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  3. These photos are just unreal. I think the cot looks like fun, but then I haven’t slept on it. I’m glad you could commemorate your anniversary in such a memorable way.

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