The Road to Diamond, Day 303: The (Rail)Road to Berlin

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September 26, 2025, Berlin- “Well now, that is certainly a rude awakening”, the burly leader of a group of German tourists huffed, as the news came over the loudspeaker that one of the cars on our train to Hamburg, from Kolding, DK, had broken down and that those of us (including me) who were scheduled to be on that train would now either have to ride in Standage or wait for a replacement car. He gathered the group, and held a brief consultation, while looking at me. A minute later, he told me that, as one of their group had dropped out of the trip, there was a seat in their cabin, and I was welcome to take it.

It turned out to be a most pleasant two hours. I even was offered, and accepted the no-show’s sandwich, which had been purchased, freshly made, from a delicatessen in the Aarhus area, earlier in the morning. Chicken salad with bacon is a favourite in Denmark and Germany. It was divine.

The day had started with my walking the .9 mile from Roberta’s Society Hostel to Aarhus Train Station. The challenge came onboard, when I had to remember how to call up the Rail Planner application on my phone, which contained my actual ticket to Berlin, with the seat reservations only supplementary. The conductor, at one point, wanted to see a QR code on the RP page, but was overruled by her supervisor, who saw that as a waste of time. Good thing, as Rail Planner doesn’t provide QR Codes for its Rail Pass system.

With that behind me, one of my seat mates on the first leg (Aarhus to Kolding) opined that she had never heard of a QR code for a train ticket. She was Gen Z, so that pretty much settled the matter. Kids can pretty much do any transaction on a phone that can be done.

Once in Hamburg, I bid farewell to the German tour group and settled in for a smooth, non-eventful final leg to Berlin Hauptbanhof (Central Station). It took my usual fussing at Spectrum’s stingy Internet service (non-existent outside North America) and scrambling to find a shop or cafe whose WiFi I could use to get directions to St. Christopher’s Hostel from Central Station, over a period of thirty-five minutes, before I settled on the S-bahn (Streetcars). I ended up at Alexanderplatz, where a Tourist Office worker gave me directions for walking the rest of the way. I found the hostel, which has a bar and grill attached, in short order (no pun intended, especially as John Belushi would have either groaned or thrown something at me). St,. Christopher’s and Belushi’s are teamed up in various cities around Europe. Chain hostels, including Generator (my Copenhagen digs), are quite the rage.

The Berlin hostel is in an old building, so it has its challenges, but I like the vibe here. The Rugby championships and various soccer matches are on the TV screens, so it wouldn’t be a dull 1 1/2 days, even if I opted to sit in the hostel all day. That is not happening. I will be out and about, exploring Berlin’s oldest neighbourhood and possibly seeking out remnants of the Berlin Wall-a reminder of what happens to attempts to separate people on artificial grounds.

Here’s the hostel.

St, Christopher’s Inn, Berlin

The Road to Diamond, Day 302: Denmark’s Second City

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September 25, 2025, Aarhus- The gathering was much larger than I had anticipated-and the kitchen manager apologetically told me there was no more room in the dining area during the Communal Dining session. I had come here to see how Danes manage their Slow Food movement.

Staying for the presentation afterward, all in Danish, of course, but worth watching for the dynamics, I enjoyed Miso Lasagna, with the healthful Japanese paste taking the place of cheese. There were organic ground beef and squash lasagna noodles, to round out the dish.

Here is a photo of one of the breakout groups, who discussed the benefits of communal food preparation and dining.

Communal Dining Presentation, at Roberta’s Society Hostel, Aarhus

We have similar gatherings, from time to time, in Prescott and this weekend, in Sacramento, there is a Slow Food Americas festival, with dozens of breakout groups and presentations, celebrating the benefits of healthful food production, sustainable agriculture and animal husbandry and careful composting.

Roberta’s Society Hostel, Aarhus

Roberta was not a person, as such, but a name attached to a concept: The Kalpin brothers, Danish entrepreneurs, established the hostel in a former library. The idea was to get away from the standard “locals shall not stay in hostels” policy that has been in place around the world for many decades, and bring people together in community, thus communal dining and other positive gatherings are regularly held at Roberta’s Society.

ARoS Aarhus Art Museum

The museum with a rainbow roof was designed by Danish/Icelandic artist, Olafur Eliasson. It is one of the reasons that Roberta’s is fairly easy to find, being just to the west of ARoS, near the northern portion of Aarhus’ tree-lined park. The city is fairly bustling,as any second-largest city would have to be, but Roberta’s is actually within walking distance of the train station.

I found that out, only after catching a bus and learning Aarhus’ unique phone-app based bus fare payment system. That involved going to three different 7-11 stores (The chain is big in Denmark) and finally getting a clerk to sell me a card that is affiliated with the phone app.

Walking close to Roberta’s, I captured a few of Aarhu’s older buildings, including this stately bank building.

Old Bank building, Central Aarhus

Aarhus embraces the new, in sculpture, as well as in cuisine. Here is Phil Price’s “Snake, Aarhus, 2253”.

Arhus is another fascinating place that would be worth 2-3 more days. Alas, I have promises to keep……..Next up, Berlin.

The Road to Diamond, Day 301, Part III: The King’s Garden of Roses

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September 24, 2025, Copenhagen- Kongen Have, the King’s Garden, was the third place where I experienced quiet today. It was certainly filled with people, but it was day’s end. People were quietly jogging, sitting on a blanket enjoying a picnic supper or closer to Rosenberg Palace, walking among the flowers for which the edifice is named.

Roses, near Rosenberg Palace
Rosenberg Palace-It was closed by the time I got here, but the grounds were well worth the walkabout. So, too, was the main section of this salubrious public space.
Foreground of King’s Garden
Fashioned boulders, arranged in a triangle
The garden runs the gamut, from wild….
to the sculpted and curated.

All was calm and bright, even in the gloaming.

Rosenberg Palace, across the moat. Ariel was a bit off my path, but she would feel right at home here, especially in the moat!

The mandarin ducks were certainly delighted!

With that came the realization that my Copenhagen visit is coming to a close. An all-too-brief visit to the “foodie city” of Aarhus is next, and a visit to Berlin will give me a sense of another of the world’s great cities. I am sure there will be some special moments in each. Stay tuned!

The Road to Diamond, Day 301: More Jewels of Kronen, Part II

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September 24, 2025, Copenhagen– The amazing thing about today was the three instances of almost total quiet that enveloped a place where I happened to be, even though there were large numbers of people about.

First was Kastellet, a one-time regal fortress that was totally given over to the Danish military, following World War II. It had been fortified after a Swedish siege of Copenhagen, in the Seventeenth Century, but proved an effective deterrent against the British, in 1704. Today, I was impressed with the intensity of Danish troops engaged in individual and group training. Kastellet’s archives detail the various occasions in which Denmark has contributed to peacekeeping activities, since World War Ii. The nation is a vital part of NATO, and of United Nations peacekeeping efforts. It behooves other nations to keep this in mind.

Moat at Kastellet, Copenhagen
Another visitor from North America-a Great Blue Heron!
Another view of the moat and ramparts, Kastellet
A view of the wall
Commander’s House
Barracks, Kastellet
Citadel Church
Dutch-style windmill-replaced an earlier mill that was destroyed in a storm.

After leaving Kastellet, I had only to walk a short distance before noticing a large dome. This turned out to be Frederiks Kirke, and it is the largest domed church in Scandinavia. Once inside, all are to maintain silence-and we all did. Soft, soothing music was the only sound. No loudly-clicking cameras or flash photography are permitted inside, either.About seventy of us were inside, and quiet.

Frederiks Kirke

After spending about twenty minutes in the great church, I went across the street to the large complex of palaces, which punctuate Frederikssgade. Below are the palaces, in a clockwise direction.

Amalianborg, on the left, with Christian VIII’s palace to the right.
Frederik VIII’s Palace
Christian IX’s palace

I left the quiet atmosphere of the royal courtyard, and went back to the bustle of Old Town, via the Yellow Palace, which now houses many offices of the Danish government.

Yellow Palace, Copenhagen

It was time to get a bit of supper, and reflect. Ironically, both would take me the third place of solitude- Kongen Have (King’s Garden) More on this bit of heaven, in the next post.

The Road to Diamond, Day 301: More Jewels of Kronen, Part I

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September 24, 2025, Copenhagen- Today started out as a minor shopping day: I had to replace lost sunglasses and a knot cap, as well as worn-out socks. So, a visit to Magasin du Nord, a major department store of Indre By (downtown) was the first order of business. MDN is a throwback to the great department stores of old. Department stores still mean something on this side of the Atlantic.

In the afternoon, I set out on another random stroll, heading west on Adelgade, towards a church that beckoned towards the midst of that street’s span. St. Petri Kirke’s conical spire calls out to the party animals at Generator. Being one to roam off the beaten path, I walked its way.

St.Petri Kirke, Frederiksstaden, Copenhagen

A block or so later, I came to Sankt Pauls Gade, the Nyboder district, built by King Christian IV for naval personnel and now preserved as a national treasure.

Nyboder, Sankt Pauls Gade (above and below)

It was another three blocks towards Osterport that I came upon a Swedish Church, close to the waterfront, and bordering a small marsh. Here is a view of Svenske Kirkes Julebasar.

Svenske Kirkes Julebasar (above and below)

Senske Kirkes Julebasar

The small marsh became a stream, which became a moat. The afternoon was about to show the majesty of Frederiksstaden, as Osterport swung towards the International Ferry Terminal.

Small marsh and pond, near Svenke Kirkes Julebasar

I am taking my time with this, so next up will feature Kastellet, Frederiks Kirke and Amalienborg, with Part III focused on Kongen Have (King’s Garden) and the exterior of Rosenberg Palace.

The Road to Diamond, Day 300: Kronborg and Kobenhavn

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September 23, 2025, Copenhagen- There is something fairy tale-like about Helsingor. Like a Danish version of Visby, it largely is filled with cobblestone streets. Unlike Visby, its Old Town is mostly a no-car zone. Here are some of the Old Town scenes I promised you last night.

Old Town street, Helsingor
Hamlet Hotel, Helsingor is across the street from Skandia, where I stayed last night.
St.Marie’s Church, Helsingor
Dom Church (Cathedral) of Helsingor

Now, here is the crown jewel of Old Elsinore: Kronborg Castle, which was William Shakespeare’s setting for Hamlet.

Denmark has been a country since the 11th Century. Around 1424, King Eric VII built the prototype of the fortress, overlooking Oresund, which separates Sjaelland (“SHEL-land) from the Swedish Peninsula, at its narrowest point, In 1585, King Frederick II expanded the fortress into a magnificent castle. The fortress burned down, in 1629, after which King Kristian IV had it rebuilt. In 1658, the fortress proved insufficient to withstand an attack by Sweden, during the war in which the latter seized control of Scandia, the southernmost part of the peninsula, from the Danes. In 1785, Kronborg became a military barracks, as the king had moved to Copenhagen. It was given to the Danish people, in the 1920s, as an historical treasure.

What a treasure it is! Here are seven photos of the grounds and the interior, including the extensive Casemates (the dungeons and underground refuge of the royals, during the war with Sweden.).

The Moat of Kronborg Castle
Cannons, facing north, from Kronborg Castle
Kronborg’s Cannon Tower, from the courtyard
The Chapel, which was the only area, not affected by the Fire of 1629.
Oresund, and other parts of Kronborg, from the Cannon Tower. This viewpoint is reached after climbing 145 steps. I still have it, even if it means taking 2 twenty-second breathers going up.
Holger the Dane, legendary protector of the nation, who awakens when Denmark has met its darkest hour. He otherwise sleeps in the Casemates.
In the Casemates-Is down up or is up, down?
A Word of Caution.
Queen Margrethe I, who ruled Denmark and all of Scandinavia.

No display of a castle is complete without a scene of the ballroom. So here is #8.

The Ballroom

With this lovely visit, I headed back to Skandia, retrieved my bags and headed across the street to the train station. I learned last night, from the ferry monitor, how to work a ticket machine, and so got my own ticket to Copenhagen. Sadly, the Baha’i National Centre turned out to be in a suburban location-so I missed seeing the friends there. I did speak with one on the phone and may be able to join a meeting at my next place of visitation.

Copenhagen, though, is exquisite. I will be here tomorrow and early Thursday. Let us close with this scene of Indre By, the “Old Town” of the Danish capital, of which more tomorrow.

Ornate small cafe, with Hotel D’Angleterre in the background. An enterprising young woman runs a small coffee shop here.

Rumour has it that Tivoli is temporarily closed. I will check that one out further, tomorrow. Even so, there is plenty of opportunity to keep occupied here.

The Road to Diamond, Day 299: Navigating the Bugs

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September 22, 2025, Helsingor, Sjaelland, Denmark- When I got to the Long-Distance trains, in Stockholm, accompanied by my friend from Nynashamn, two tings were obvious: The Rail App that I got for my iPhone, specifically to make catching trains easier, was not doing so AND I had oversimplified the booking process in my head. This led to learning curve #2 on this journey: Every leg of the process is different and every leg has to be set in motion, before showing up at the gate. I learned that it is best to go to the ticket office at the station, well before the desired time of departure-not 1/2 hour prior. The well-oiled team is what has got me this far, and given me a road map for the rest of the journey (no pun intended).

It all worked out; I got to say farewell to the kids and their father at the station in Nynasgard; I was able to purchase a ticket at the Central Station Billeting Office and friend was able to tend to an important matter of her own, after I boarded the train with time to spare, after all.

I found myself seated next to a very interesting person, who is writing historical novels, accenting the achievements of the Swedish people, rather than dwelling on the hardships and deprivations the country has faced, over the centuries. She is also a rather skilled photographer, and showed me some of her portfolio. I shared with her my philosophy of education and the basic teachings of Baha’i. After a time, we reverted to our own spaces and enjoyed the quiet ride through the heart of central and southern Sweden. When she met her partner, at Malmo, she told him of her interest in what I had shared. He seemed to be favourable to her comments.

With help from a train conductor in Malmo, I reverted to my initial plan of taking the train to Helsingborg, then the ferry to Helsingor-as opposed to following the Stockholm ticket agent’s idea of going to Copenhagen and then up to my destination. That would have likely added a good hour to the journey. I had just enough time in Helsingborg to take photos of the interesting Centrum.

Helsingborg Centrum from the Ferry terminal
Helsingborg Centrum (above and below)
South Side of Helsingborg
Old Harbour House, Helsingborg

We left Helsingborg, and Sweden, on time. My seatmate on the train from Stockholm to Malmo remarked that today was the first time she had seen that train leave on schedule, in nearly two years of back and forth. I have a different impression of Swedish punctuality, but maybe that is my luck-everything has been on the button, during my time here.

So far, I can only say I have experienced 90 % kindness, in both Iceland and Sweden. Certainly, the expectation is that the visitor will put forth effort to observe how things are done, and follow suit, but there is also a goodly measure of grace and forthright correction, when needed. I am used to taking life lessons in stride and not making the same mistake twice. This fits nicely with how people expect visitors to go about their time in both countries.

I expect it will be much the same in Denmark. Helsingor, for starters is compact. Hotel Skania, where I am tonight, is right across the tracks from the Train Station and Ferry Terminal. A short two blocks to the west and south is a row of restaurants and shops, with no cars allowed. Rib House, where I dined this evening, is a fun place, where each patron gets to check off the items chosen for the meal. There is a one-trip, or unlimited salad bar, in the style of American steak houses. How well meat is to be cooked is a choice item as are the type of potatoes one wants, and the sauces, if any, that are desired. Of course, one checks off what drink is desired.

Rib House, Helsingor Centrum

I will share more of Helsingor tomorrow. Now, it’s time for rest.

The Road to Diamond, Day 298: Views from A Tower, and from a Warm Kitchen

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September 21, 2025, Nynashamn- It was quite windy atop the water tower that served this small city on its own, for several decades-until a larger one was built across town. The tower on which my friend, Mattias, and I stood was had burned down in 2018 and was rebuilt as an observation point, a year later. The taller and larger tower that replaced it may be seen from the top, as may a large area of the southern Stockholm Archipelago, of which Nynashamn (NEE-nahs-hahmn) is an anchor.

Here are some scenes from that vantage point.

View of Stockholm Archipelago, and south side of Nynanshamn
View of Grondalsviken, to the southwest of Nynashamn.
View of Nynashamn Centrum (downtown)

On top of Trehorningen Water Tower

Afterward, we went back to find the rest of the crew, Sarah and the kids, at Nynashamn Harbour. We had begun the day with a satisfying breakfast and had gone over to Choklad Huset (Chocolate House), which serves up the finest of hot chocolate and a full variety of solid treats. This establishment provides dessert items for the Nobel Prize Dinner, among other accomplishments. We enjoyed our delights at a playground near the harbour (The “ship playground”, say the kids.

Choklad Huset

It was soon time to go back to the cozy apartment. I spent a blissful afternoon, just soaking in all that being with a little family entails. After a well-crafted dinner of “Fresh Rolls” (spring rolls, in clear rice wraps, with “Chinese Rice” (fried rice), I took in one more Nynashamn sunset.

Sunset from Grondalsviken

Tomorrow, I double back to Stockholm’s Central Station, and take the train southward to Helsingborg and over the water, to Helsingor-the site of Elsinore Castle. It has been a truly lovely visit with my Swedish family. Now, to make more friends, in Denmark.

The Road to Diamond, Day 297: Clear, with Still A Chance of Meatballs*

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September 20, 2025, Nynashamn- The ferry here from Visby left bright and early. I was the first one to order breakfast on board, and chose Swedish meatballs, which were served along with a bed of beet salad on French bread. It was a cold plate, but that was okay. I am used to cold meats in warm or mild weather, and it was not cold at all on the way to the ship.

I arrived in Nynashamn at 10:30 and made my way quickly to the train, which brought me to my friends’ house. I received a hero’s welcome from the kids and warm greeting from their parents. It was easy to hang out there until mid-afternoon, watching a K-Pop video that actually had a nice life lesson for the kids-and for the rest of us: “Rather than try to hide our flaws, gear ourselves to recognize them and work to transcend them. Hiding them just opens the door for manipulation by others.”

I went back to briefly get checked into First Camp, for a short rest, then returned to my friends’ place for a delightful dinner of….Swedish meatballs. This time, though, they were hot, with flavourful gravy and boiled potatoes. I can never get too much ground meat-so this was a welcome turn of events.

*The day reminded me of a children’s story,”Cloudy, With a Chance of Meatballs”, by Judi Barrett. It, too, offers a message: “Change, even drastic change, is not the end of the world.” I have experienced both having to recognize and work on my flaws-and to embrace change and build a new way of life.” There is also a use for sameness and routine, especially for toddlers, so I bid my friends good night, after dinner, and made plans to see them tomorrow.

The Road to Diamond, Day 296, Part II: Preserved Legacy

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September 19, 2025, Visby, Gotland- Three grand buildings, or the shells of them, still stand in the center of Visby. These are all former Catholic churches, closed by the Duke of Gotland in the middle of the 14th Century, after the Black Plague and attacks by Danish forces spurred an economic downturn on the island.

I started the day with the first of two visits to Cafe Amalia, one of two breakfast establishments, within the Ringmuren (city walls) in town, that open before 9 a.m. The energetic young couple who work this branch of Amalia open at 7 a.m. I enjoyed a heaping bowl of Grandma Grot (Grandma’s Porridge) and a tasty omelet, which sustained me until dinner time.

Cafe Amalia’s uptown branch

Then it was time to wander around a bit. I was surprised and delighted to find St. Karin’s Church. Karin, to Swedes, is a derivative of Katherine. What is left of St. Karin’s, and of two other churches that the Duke had closed, is protected by the Swedish government, as a matter of national heritage. So, here are some scenes of St. Karin’s.

Exterior of St. Karin’s Church (ruined)
Exterior wall of St. Karin’s Church
Interior of St. Karin’s Church
Interior of St. Karin’s Church
Interior dome, St. Karin’s Church
Church of the Holy Trinity (aka Drotten Church). This house of worship was built in the early 13th Century, for German residents of Visby. “Drotten” means “ruler”.

This church had an extension built on, before the Duke ordered it closed as well.

Church of the Holy Trinity (Drotten)
Interior of Holy Trinity Church (Drotten)
Interior of Holy Trinity Church (Drotten)

Next was St. Lars (Lawrence) Church, closed about the same time as St. Karin’s.

St. Lars Church-exterior
Interior of St. Lars Church

St.Lars is the only one of the ruins that has stairs which are not blocked off. The little boy in me wanted to go up. The grown man did not, and won out.

Stair well, interior of St.Lars Church
Dome of St. Lars Church

Modernity has its contribution to ecclesiastical wonders in Visby. Here is St. Maria’s Cathedral, built after Gotland had become part of the Kingdom of Sweden. Note that it has three spires.

Cathedral of St.Maria (Visby Cathedral)
Exterior of St. Maria’s Cathedral
Interior of St. Maria’s Cathedral (above and below)
Interior of St. Maria’s Cathedral
Altar of St. Maria’s Cathedral

Here is a view of all three spires of St. Maria’s.

East Wall . It was through this gate that farmers bringing their produce to market had to stop and pay tolls, or risk fines or being flogged.

We can look at, and admire, the beauty of what has been preserved for us, yet would do well to remember the excesses of government that led to things like Ringmur (surrounding wall) of Visby.