First Nations

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October 9, 2023- There once was a story, that when the People came across the ice and land bridge known as Beringia, they followed large, ferocious beasts, from mastodons and mammoths to smilodons (sabre-toothed cats) and short-faced bears. There was Megatherium, the larger, somewhat more irascible ancestor of today’s tree sloth. There were huge dire wolves and wild cattle, called aurochs. Some legends also say that the continent of North America was occupied by giant humans. There is evidence that some First Nations people also came by sea, from the western Pacific islands and from the Mediterranean region-and that even the Amazon Basin was peopled, before the Pacific Northwest.

Much of that lore remains to be proven. So, too, does much of the lore about who first settled what we call the Holy Land. The Old Testament recounts that the twelve tribes of Israel were led to the edge of that nation, and found Canaanites and Philistines already there. There was battle, and the Philistines were defeated. They went slightly north, became the Phoenicians , and contributed greatly to Western Civilization-as did the Jews.

People have always been on the move. Homo sapiens came out of Africa, spread throughout Eurasia, across the Pacific Islands, into Australia and to the Americas. Migrating peoples left the Eurasian steppes and Altai Mountains-some going east and becoming the Siberians and at least some of those we call First Nations peoples or Native Americans; others going west and becoming the Scythians, Kelts, Teutons, Slavs, Turks, Magyars (Huns) and Sami. Other migrating people left the Caucasus and became the Greeks, Etruscans, Latins and Illyrians of southern Europe, or, going eastward, the Persians and various peoples of north India.

African emigres sailed the Indian Ocean, and the eastern rim of Asia, to Australia, New Guinea and Melanesia. The true First Nations of the Philippines, Taiwan and Jeju (South Korea) were of African origin. In kind, Malays, who long ago left southern China and settled the Pacific Rim of southeast Asia-found their way westward, settling Madagascar, where they found and intermingled with Africans.

In Africa itself, the southern third of the continent was originally the domain of those who have been variously called Hottentots, Bushmen, Pygmies, or more recently by their own preferred name, San. Those known collectively as Bantu were migrants from western Africa, who spread across the continent, much as the First Nations peoples of the Americas spread through those continents.

The beat goes on-and still there is argument, as to who should be allowed to live where. Fighting over land is tantamount to self-defeatism. Untangling the ball of yarn will be a long, tortuous process, but can anyone really say the process of conflict and warfare is easier?

“The Earth is but one country, and Mankind its citizens”. – Baha’u’llah

Messages

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October 4, 2023- When I closed my eyes at this evening’s prayer meeting, I saw a cabin in the woods, with soft, multicoloured lighting outside. After a few more prayers were said, I closed my eyes in reverence again, and saw the dungeon where Baha’u’llah was imprisoned for four months, in 1852. The full meaning of these visions could play out, in terms of my being physically-present in those locations, at some point, or there could be some related meaning, that pertains to something else in my life.

Messages can have “one and seventy meanings”, according to any number of spiritual traditions, including the Teachings of Christ, and those of Baha’u’llah- Who goes further, ascribing such a distinction to every written word in Scripture. Indeed, any time I get an inspirational message about how to spend a day, where to work and where to visit, it takes some contemplation, beforehand and along the course of the day, to be sure that I am maintaining the intended course of action,

The message that came to me, three weeks ago, to accept this week’s work assignment, was very clear: “Do your level best for the two children who will be your primary focus, while also helping with anyone else who needs attention, especially if the classroom teacher is busy elsewhere or is overwhelmed.” This has prepared me for a few instances, such as lunch time, when there has been shortness of staff and I found myself serving as an adhoc monitor. It also falls into my long-held view that every educator in an institution of learning is responsible, to a degree, for the well-being of every student in that environment.

The message that came to me, back in May, regarding my journey to southeast Asia, was to focus strictly on the Philippines-that a longer journey to the region, involving more nations, would happen in a few years. Such guidance can always change, as situations evolve in various aspects of my life and in the wider world. Yes, the dynamics of aging and health are among those aspects-but for now, that part of my life is not fraught with issues. I have three focuses for the upcoming trip: Visiting a sponsored youth, connecting with the Baha’is and a few other friends, and paying homage to those who died at Bataan and Corregidor, as well as to Jose Rizal and,if time allows, Lapu-Lapu, whom I regard as a figure little known in the West-but every bit as important to history as the great chiefs of North America’s First Nations.

Over the next few days, I may receive further insight regarding the matter, but for now, the message is to focus on the children and correct an oversight on a financial matter, relative to health care I received one and two years ago.

The Burning Sands

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September 27, 2023- The scientist looked earnestly at the veteran politician, and bared his soul. He fretted about the destruction to which his work had contributed. For this, he was castigated, and thrown out of the politician’s office.

Historically accurate or not, this was the depiction of the interchange between J. Robert Oppenheimer and Harry S. Truman, in the film “Oppenheimer”. I came away from the film, which was in its final showing this evening, thinking “Well, that was certainly vintage Truman; ‘The buck stops here’ and all that.” It may have been typical of Oppenheimer, as well. He held a dim view of “Give ‘Em Hell Harry”, largely for the difference in worldview between the two of them.

There was, however, a firsthand view of the first atomic explosion that occurred in White Sands, that Oppenheimer had and Truman did not. The President had to weigh a lot of factors, in deciding to attack Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Chief among them was ‘saving American lives’, with the damage to Japan being secondary. There were calculations, though, that far more Japanese lives would be lost in a conventional war, than from one or two nuclear strikes. It was, in my 20/20 hindsight (I was born in 1950), a Hobson’s choice.

War, and conflict in general, brings out the worst in people. Its “solution” certainly caused no end of heartache and grief to the people of Kyushu and western Honshu. It left Oppenheimer, a reluctant recipient of both civic honour and political humiliation, a veritable wreck of a man. The subsequent research into the hydrogen bomb left “downwinders” in southern Nevada and Utah, northern Arizona and much of New Mexico, poisoned, debilitated shells of their more robust selves. Neutron bombs, which “kill people, but leave buildings intact” are perhaps the most cynical extension of this element of modern warfare, save the use of armed drones, launched a long distance away from the target.

The events that were fictionalized in “Oppenheimer” only reinforced my revulsion. Harry Truman probably would have wanted to kick my buttocks.

Another Journey, Another Wrap

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September 20, 2023- Several tree branches graced the highway, between Winslow and Strawberry, leading us to stop and wait for fifteen minutes at a stretch, as one lane was open, and we took turns with oncoming traffic. At least this time, no one jumped the gun and refused to wait-unlike last year on Cape Breton, when a pick-up coming towards our traffic line challenged the lead vehicle-a semi-trailer. Guess who backed up five hundred yards?

Today’s episode led to a pushed -back chiropractic adjustment-which was no big deal. The evening Zoom meeting, which was the other reason for making sure I was back at Home Base-Prescott by this evening, was lengthy, but well-organized. These next three weeks need to be similarly focused, on my end at least. A fair amount of work is on tap and renewed attention to weight reduction, though this journey has not been as hard on that part of my life as it might have been. Connecting a few more dots on the Philippines trip needs to happen-so long as the plug is not pulled on TSA and the air traffic controllers, come October 1.

Recapping, the four-day Colorado East Baha’i Summer School provided spiritual grounding before I headed north and east. Laying a wreath at the grave of a fallen police officer was the other side of the coin from George Floyd World Square, where I stopped in 2021. A corollary visit to Oheyaw Ahi, land sacred to the Dakota people, was an added blessing. Visiting the Baha’i House of Worship, Wilmette is essential to me, personally, in ensuring both physical and spiritual well-being on any cross-country jaunt. My mother’s 95th birthday, though rather low-key, was the centerpiece of the drive. The birth of a grand niece, though I did not hang around and witness it, was as good a reason as any to stop in the beloved climes of southeast Pennsylvania, spend time with my newly relocated brother and sister-in-law, and of course stop in at Glick’s Greenhouse. It was also a reason to make homage to a much-loved cousin, who spent her final years in York, a place of considerable historical importance-as is its namesake in England. Visits with old friends in Crossville, TN and Amarillo topped off this year’s cross-country.

Other old friends were welcoming, in Wilmette, IL; Saugus, Bedford and Wilkes-Barre, PA; and Moriarty, NM. There were new friends made-in Luverne, MN; Toledo; Kittery, ME; Harrisburg; Marion, VA; Atoka, OK-and Amarillo. The most important, enduring feature of any journey, though, is the connection with family. At journey’s end, I can say that it, almost alone, determines the success or failure of the effort.

Journey 3, Day 20: Meanders in Sooner Land

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September 19, 2023, Moriarty- The clerk in the spanking new service station regarded me curiously, as I was putting a lid on the soup bowl I had just filled-“You’re in the right place. If you’re ready, this way please.” She is one of the archetypal personages who show up, whenever I am starting to feel befuddled. There are the cheerful Irish girl or woman with long black hair and a crinkled smile, the concerned Black man or woman who sets me straight-often without saying a word, and the slender, no-nonsense woman or girl with an air of self-confidence. The clerk was one of the latter, her understated message being”You need not doubt yourself. Go forward with confidence”. These archetypal persons are all souls that I seem to have met before.

After checking out of Palace Motel, I crossed the state line into Oklahoma, and saw “Welcome to the Choctaw Nation”. As many are aware, the record of the Federal government, with regard to what is now Oklahoma, is rather shoddy. Native Americans were forcibly removed from their lands in the Southeast, brought to this area and given small segments of what was then viewed as marginal land. Once oil was discovered, there was a land rush and races were held, to see who would grab “newly-opened” parcels of land. The Oklahoma Territory took the western 2/3 of Indian Territory, and the two were again joined, to become the State of Oklahoma, in 1907. It was from the days of the land rush that the term “Sooners”, or claim jumpers, was bestowed upon the citizens of Oklahoma.

I entered the Sooner State fairly early, and drove through Broken Bow, Idabel, Hugo and Durant, before heading northward, towards Atoka. These towns are all in Choctaw jurisdiction, and variously show signs of prosperity and sections that could use some love. The Choctaw seem to have used their resources rather well: Oil and casino resorts draw other enterprises. Atoka, in particular, is making strides to increase its draw as a business location. Along with Durant, it has established the commercial strips common to most regional hubs in North America.

As I began to feel like I was aimlessly meandering, a check of the GPS revealed that I was not all that far from Oklahoma City. It was lunch time, and the Pilot station offered comforting hot soup, along with a chicken sandwich-plenty good enough for a road meal. The above-mentioned clerk summoned me to her station, and conveyed a message of confidence. From there, I spotted a sign directing me towards Ada, a town where Penny and I stayed with friends, while she was recuperating from an illness incurred while traveling, in 1984. I knew that from Ada, it would be an hour or so to Oklahoma City, and relaxed enough to just pull into Atoka City Park, enjoying lunch, while admiring the lake that the city has constructed.

Atoka Lake (above and below)

The sky looked a bit ominous, and I would later hear from a friend elsewhere in Oklahoma, that her area had experienced severe downpours, with thunder and lightning. My drive was briefly interrupted, near Shawnee, when I drove into a speed trap-55 down to 40, in a matter of seconds. I was given an oral warning and sent on my way, no worse for the wear. The officer did not seem to even agree with the posting, but was just another soul-dispatched to make sure I was in a good frame of mind. The weather, save a few sprinkles, near Weatherford (no pun, cosmic, or otherwise), was rather tame.

By dinner time, I was in Amarillo, and so headed to the Fun Zone, Georgia Street to 6th-9th Avenues. There was my pal, Wes, in his convertible, hood down and ready to make anew friend or two. At Smokey Joe’s, we were treated like royalty by a comely young woman named Ella, who brought out a fine basket of Southern style catfish-no hush puppies, but a modest portion of fries and a generous helping of cole slaw. Wes, being shy and retiring, was more concerned with speaking of his business’s progress and sharing pictures of his surrogate grand-niece than with eating. He did make a new friend, so the stop was a success.

I promised both of them that I would drive safely-and kept that promise, arriving here to a rather crowded town, many here for a Gun Show. There was a room for me, at a friend’s establishment, so I am happily ensconced at Lariat Motel.

Journey 3, Day 19: A Mississippi Horseshoe

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September 18, 2023, De Queen, AR- “Sit wherever you want, hun. What can I get you to drink, my love?” Each person who came into Huddle House, in Corinth, this morning was greeted thus endearingly by the lead server, Ryanne- and what better way is there to start a Monday morning? She recounted to me, at table, that her morning had not exactly been a time of sweetness and light. She was not, however, about to let before-work woes ruin her day at the diner, or anyone else’s. As she worked, calls came that conveyed the message that solutions to the mishaps were in progress. I get the sense that her attitude towards life generates such positive outcomes.

The next stop, on a horseshoe-shaped ramble, was Tupelo- birthplace of Elvis Presley. Though I did not make a stop at the King’s boyhood home, getting the ambiance of the place and a sense of how it affected his musical trajectory came from stops in downtown and at Ballard Park, in midtown Tupelo. There is a tolerance of individuality in Tupelo- borne out by the boutique, Main Attraction, where I purchased a latte from a flamboyant, but rather soft-spoken entrepreneur- whose main wares were women’s clothing and New Age items, such as Buddha tea mugs and incense burners. There was also this mural, honouring the spirit of the region’s indigenous Chickasaw people.

Mural in downtown Tupelo

There are scattered memorials to the area’s Confederate dead, but these are tempered by acknowledgement of the contributions of African-Americans, including this marker at Tupelo National Battlefield. The battle that took place there, in 1862, set the way for both the Federal occupation of Vicksburg and Sherman’s March to the Sea, by disrupting Confederate supply lines.

Honouring the brigade of United States Colored Troops, for its efforts at the Battle of Tupelo.

The Lee County Courthouse, like others in mid-sized southern towns, has its dome. This construction feature is designed to convey the majesty of law. That majesty has come hard, only gradually overcoming the resistance of many residents to a more inclusive community ethos.

Lee County Courthouse, Tupelo

The Deep South is changing, though, and I felt only welcome and conviviality on this initial swing through the heartland of the Civil Rights struggle. Ballard Park, where a lone Hispanic woman was jogging while pushing her infant in a stroller and feeding the gaggles of Canadian geese that dominate the south shore of the lake, is a case in point.

South Shore of Ballard Lake, Tupelo.

At some point in the not-too-distant future, I will make a music-centered return visit, and the actual Elvis Presley Lake, as well as his boyhood home, will be part of that itinerary. There is resistance in the Universe to my being on the road, though, epitomized by the current financial downturn, so I have to be patient and perhaps focus more on working, to rebuild my nest egg. A lot of people have goals that face similar straits; yet on we go.

Despite having those thoughts, the road continued-to Philadelphia, MS, scene of the murders of three Civil Rights activists, in the “Freedom Summer” of 1964. At that time in my life, a revulsion towards authoritarian Communism existed side by side with an equally strong conviction that African-Americans were being grossly denied full citizenship, especially in the South, but also in my hometown, north of Boston, where few Black people were allowed to live, at the time. Debates on the subject were civil, yet I was regarded as somewhat naive in “the way life really is”. How times have changed!

I felt a rather dark energy, approaching Philadelphia. It was almost as if the ghosts of the murdered were trying to communicate. When I got to downtown, and parked my vehicle, beginning a short stroll, I was greeted warmly by a well-dressed gentleman, who somehow recognized me from who knows where. He shortly went about his business, and I made note of Neshoba County Courthouse, and the water tower that draws from a reservoir near where the three men were buried. Downtown, for the most part, was quiet.

Downtown Philadelphia, MS
Neshoba County Courthouse, Philadelphia, MS.

Headed out of town, towards Jackson, I found myself behind several school buses. One of them led the way, for about eight miles, and I noticed rambunctious behaviour through the opaque rear window, similar to the shenanigans of countless children and youth, the world over.

It was also quitting time in the state capital, so when I got to the seat of Mississippi state government, I had a “state business only” streetside parking space to myself-for five minutes, under the watchful eye of a Capitol Police Officer. Here, then, are the Mississippi Capitol and a nearby First Baptist Church.

South side of Mississsippi State Capitol, Jackson
First Baptist Church, Capitol Hill, Jackson

The road west and north passed a sizable back-up, across I-20, near Tallulah, LA, where I stopped for dinner and heard details of the overturned truck, from another driver who witnessed the rollover. Leaving the Interstate, just shy of Shreveport, my memory of map study when I was a teenager and young adult came in handy-and up through Springhill, into Arkansas, it was. I passed through the place called Hope, in which Bill Clinton still believed, on the night of his election to the Presidency, in 1992. Respite, though, has come, at the Palace Hotel, in this little town of De Queen, just shy of the Oklahoma border. I was the last guest checked in for the night, before the clerk decided he’d had enough, and locked the office door.

The Universe may be resistant, in some ways, but there are plenty in it, who are looking out for me.

Journey 3, Day 16, Part II: York The Fortunate

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September 15, 2023, Marion, VA- In the small Korean market, the emphasis is on organic foods, combined with a standard American submarine sandwich shop menu. Besides that, there is a mash-up with convenience foods on the shelves. Green Foods Market is on the east end of downtown York, an area of unexpectedly broad streets, high traffic and seemingly prosperous residents.

York drew my late cousin, Linda, many years ago, during a time of uncertainty in her life. There was a farm and a sense of plenitude, a place where she could deal with matters that had inserted themselves into her previously serene life. Linda was like an angel, and was always helping others, especially us cousins. She was almost too good for this world.

I went there, on my way south, early this afternoon, stopping at the aforementioned Green Foods, for a seafood salad, which would become lunch and dinner, on my way southward along Virginia’s “spine”: I-81. I have long wanted to visit York and see what drew one of my favourite cousins. While not getting to the area where she lived, I did get a sense of the source of York’s good fortune. Here was where the United States of America came together, with the Articles of Confederation being ratified-away from the uncertainty of Philadelphia and the imminent threat of British occupation. Confederation Square remains the town’s centerpiece.

Enough rambling. Here are some scenes from downtown York.

A homeless man, sitting on a bench, pointed to this sign. It was, he said, a sign of the city’s commitment to public health. That he himself was well-groomed, wearing clean clothes, was proof of an effort being made in that regard.
York City Hall
Laurel Fire Station-one of the few I’ve seen with its original bell tower.
The blue-black bear image is quite common, in south central Pennsylvania.
York County Courthouse, with domes in the back.
In 1777, the seeds of a national culture were sown, from York.
For no reason, other than levity, Jack Haley’s Tin Woodman is presented as “The Tinker”.

With a favourable image of York, and satisfied that this town treated a beloved family member well, I headed southward, with relatively little trouble, save brief interludes of Washington area traffic headed out of town, briefly visited treasured Harrisonburg and arrived in Marion, on the south end of Appalachian Virginia, in time to tumble into bed.

May York long see good fortune.

Journey 3, Day 16, Part I: Pennsylvania’s Historical Core

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September 15, 2023, Marion, VA- Denim Coffee has a nondescript sign, and takes up a small storefront, across the street from the Pennsylvania State Capitol-and Strawberry Square. It also produces what, to me, is eastern Pennsylvania’s finest cup of coffee-and I know a thing or two about good java. The perky barista who greeted me this morning is another plus for the shop.

Harrisburg’s Best Little Coffee House

The coffee stop, and a walk through Strawberry Square-the delightful indoor mall that abuts the Capitol, on its southwest corner, are definite rewards for the visitor to Harrisburg, who will find a dignified, solidly-constructed complex, bordered to the north by Historic State Street, with its magnificent St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Grace Church. The Susquehanna River and its bridges add further luster to the community.

Harrisburg will see me again, but in the meantime, here are a few scenes of another part of the historical core of Keystone- which spreads from Gettysburg to Philadelphia’s Old City.

Pennyslvania State Capitol, from the north.
Capitol viewed from the east.
Capitol viewed from the west.
Majestic view of the Pennysylvania State Capitol, from the south.
Capitol Courtyard fountain
View of State Street Bridge, from Capitol Mall, Harrisburg
As Pennsylvania translated in English means “Penn’s woods”, a grove on the Capitol grounds is certainly in order.
Historic State Street, Harrisburg
St.Patrick’s Cathedral, Harrisburg
Interior of St. Patrick’s Cathedral

Grace Church, Harrisburg

I have, in a few cases, entered a state capitol building and enjoyed its interior. I hope to do so in this Capitol, next Spring, as well as to focus on the Susquehanna, and its role in Harrisburg’s, and the state’s, growth.

The barista at Denim reminded me, strikingly, of my late cousin, Linda, who spent her final years in York, to the south of Harrisburg. It was in Linda’s memory that I went to York, the subject of the next post.

Journey 3, Day 13: The Smaller Majesties

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September 12, 2023, Exton, PA- Bushnell Park is one of New England’s best kept secrets.

The park, designed according to the style used by Frederick Law Olmsted, in his construction of New York’s Central Park, was constructed, in 1861, by a Swiss-born landscape architect, Jacob Weidenmann, who came recommended by Olmsted. It is named for Dr. Horace Bushnell, a health-conscious minister and community activist, who recognized the benefits to the public weal, of urban green space, at a time when business leaders were more concerned with making money from tax rolls than with any government involvement in the health of the citizenry.

Bushnell Park is one of the crown jewels of Hartford. Connecticut’s capital city is known for its insurance corporate headquarters and, along with so many other northeastern cities, for its struggles to renew vitality. Hartford has a magnificent core. Stopping there today, on the way from Kittery to this small, and vibrant, western suburb of Philadelphia, I found these gems:

Statue of Apollo, near State Capitol, Hartford
East side view of State Capitol, Hartford

Horace Bushnell Theater, Hartford
Pond and fountains, Bushnell Park, Hartford
Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Arch, Hartford

The Pump House was built in 1947, as part of the Connecticut River Flood Control Project, after downtown Hartford suffered deluges in 1936 and 1938.

This last item hints at solutions that might be pertinent to resolving the woes of other flood-stricken communities. As I write this, two Massachusetts towns: Leominster and North Attleboro, are dealing with severe damage caused by flooding. Several Alaska towns had flood damage, earlier this year. Across the globe, fire in the Mediterranean region (Greece, Sicily, Algeria) has been followed by flooding (Libya). It is perhaps essential to more closely examine the role that wetlands might have, in mitigating both flood and fire, since one usually follows the other.,

It also helps, that the majesty of smaller cities be recognized, appreciated and celebrated.

Journey 3, Day 7: Three Homages

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September 6, 2023, Mauston, WI- The bison herd was spread out, mostly standing around, with some lying peacefully about and a few rolling in the dust. This was the order of the morning, at Blue Mounds State Park, just north of Luverne, MN. I had come here partly to walk along the pinkish-blue rocks and partly to sit and watch the bison, who were safely behind a fence, with a three-mile range in which to graze, wallow and just be bison, without any “intrepid” ( I think of another word that ends in -pid) tourists trying to get selfies with the beasts.

Bison herd at Blue Mounds State Park, Luverne, MN (above and below)

There was only respect for these magnificent animals, from those of us who stopped to see them today. A woman who had come with a friend, and her little dog, sat in the car with the pet, while her friend went to observe the herd.

The rocks on the cliffs to the north of the bison pasture were equally magnificent- in an understated way.

Blue and pink ledges, at Blue Mounds.
Top of north Blue Mound
Rolling prairie, along Blue Mound Loop Trail

Like Pipestone to the north, Luverne relied greatly on locally quarried stone to build its public structures.

Rock County Courthouse, Luverne, MN
Rock County Veterans Memorial, with front of Courthouse in view

After a three-hour drive, the second homage of the day was on a more somber note: Laying a wreath at the gravesite of Mendota Heights Police Officer Scott Patrick, slain in the line of duty, on July 30, 2014, at a traffic stop in nearby West St. Paul. He had been a partner to an extended family member; thus, the added impetus to pay my respects.

Let all know the value of a life cut short. It is gratifying that his killer was caught and brought to justice, serving a life sentence for first degree murder.

Adjacent to Acacia Park Cemetery, where Officer Patrick was laid to rest, is Oheyaw ahi, “A Place Much Visited”, in the Dakota language. It is also known as Pilot Knob. This is a site sacred to the Dakota people, who occupied the area, when Europeans first came there. The hill was a regular gathering place, as the name implies. Sacred ceremonies were commonly observed at Oheyaw ahi. After a treaty was signed, in 1851, giving control of the area to the U.S. government and land to white settlers, 1300 Dakota people were confined to a fenced camp on the opposite bank of the Minnesota River. Many died there, during the winter of 1851-52, and were buried at Oheyaw ahi. Thus, to this day, the site is hallowed ground and sacred to the Dakota Nation. I walked quietly, on established trails, and offered prayers for those who suffered then, and those who may be suffering now.

The north gathering place, on Oheyaw ahi, near Mendota Heights, MN.

After the full day, it took a while, but I found my rest stop for the night, at Quality Inn, Mauston.