October 9, 2019, Aneth, UT-
Any illusion that Native Americans are somehow all cut from the same cloth, or are otherwise a uniform group, was hopefully dispelled, some tome ago. This is as true, with regard to various aspects of culture, including architecture, as it is to language and physical appearance- just as it is with people of any large subgrouping.
Hovenweep, a Paiute name meaning “Deserted Valley”, is the site of a large number of mud brick structures, both atop and just below the rim of, Cahone Mesa, in southeast Utah-about 15 miles northwest of this small Dineh settlement.
I last visited this area in 1979, about a month after summer break began. There has been an expansion of the National Monument since that time. For this visit, though, I focused on the Main, or Square Tower, Group of structures. Outlying ruins will be the focus of a future visit.
The trail around the Main Group is 2 miles long. The terrain is similar to that of Natural Bridges and other nearby canyons. A short walk across the table of Cahone Mesa leads to a short, but rugged, canyon crossing, then around to Twin Towers and the Square Tower triad, before snaking back towards the Visitor Center.
As you will see, the Puebloan architects variously used square corners and round construction, depending on the function of the building. Squared structures appear to be more for dwellings and the rounded buildings either as kivas or as observation towers of some sort.
The descent and ascent of Little Ruin Canyon is the most rugged part of the hike around Square Tower Group. I would rate it as moderate, in difficulty.
A small heart-shaped rock is visible, towards the rear of this small cavelet.
Remains of several small homes, on the mesa top, precede one’s arrival at Twin Towers.
As I approached Twin Towers, a girl of about twelve passed by me, cheerfully in her own experience of the area. Her grandparents called her back, not so much out of fear, as to ask her to carefully pull a discarded plastic water bottle out of this crevice! She gingerly did as asked, and had no trouble getting out of the fissure.
Here are the remnants of Twin Towers.
Just a few paces from the round towers is another rectangular tower, likely an early apartment dwelling.
There were several people at Square Tower, as I approached, so care was taken to honour each one’s quiet investigation of this central area of Hovenweep.
Checkdam is a building where the caretaker of an earthen dam spent his duty hours.
These are the structures of Hovenweep House.
Square Tower is in the midst of the main kivas.
Below, is a small single family dwelling.
This is Eroded Boulder House, an example of the effects of the climate change of that era (1200-1300 A.D.)
There are four areas of Hovenweep National Monument that are accessible by high-clearance vehicles. One of these days, I will get to those outliers.
Today, though, I had two other visits to make. I headed out of Hovenweep and made it to this oil and gas-producing community, in Utah’s southeast corner. Here, I visited for about 1 1/2 hours, with two Dineh sisters, who are caretakers of this small Baha’i Center. Members of our Faith have lived in Aneth for about fifty years.
After visiting with the ladies, I am headed to The Farm Bistro, in Cortez, for an early dinner, then will likely drive back to Prescott. It’s been a fascinating Fall Break!