June 25, 2014, Frankfurt-am-Main- Returning to Frankfurt, after nearly a month, I decided to walk north along the left bank of the Main (“Mine”) River and back south, along the right bank, noting some sights along the way.  So, after settling in at Pension Alpha, chosen for its proximity to the Train Station, and enjoying a fabulous meal of braised lamb at a Bosnian restaurant named Imbiss Sarajevo, I headed out to the river bank.

Frankfurters love their river.  I could see people celebrating their Wednesday evening, up and down both banks of the watercourse. Of course, this night featured Germany vs. USA, in a World Cup match, so the fact that all Frankfurt was out and about had even more cachet.

The first place I passed was Judisches Museum. (Photo courtesy of http://www.freizestars.de)  Although it was evening, and the Museum was closed, I was glad to see such a prominent place for Judaism and its heritage in German life.

The Left Bank in this area is called Untermainkai, or “lower quay of the Main”. (Photo courtesy of http://www.tripadvisor.com)

By the way, a frequent commentator on this site is constantly wondering why I don’t use canned article formats from Google.  The reason is simple, my posts need to reflect MY thoughts and MY style.  Instant doesn’t cut it; so, thanks but no thanks.

Back to lovely Frankfurt.  Karmeliter Kloster is basically what the name implies, a cloister for Carmelite monks, or it was,from 1246-1803.  Now, it is an institute for Urban History and an Archaeological Museum. (Both photos courtesy of http://www.frankfurt.de)

St. Leonhardskirche, a Catholic facility, offered services in English, for foreign residents and visitors.  It is closed for renovation, until 2016. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.org)

Alte Nikolaikirche is a Lutheran church, just east of Frankfurt City Hall, in Romerberg (City Hall Square). (Photo courtesy of de.wikipedia.org)

Romerberg itself is one area I would like to explore further, on another visit. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.org)

The Square was every bit as busy as the river banks, very similar to the scene in this file photo.

The Dom St. Bartholomaus, or Frankfurt Cathedral, lies “behind”, or north of, Romerberg.  The cathedral was closed also, but here is what I saw of the exterior. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.org)

About a block from the Dom, I crossed to the Right Bank, using Floesserbruecke. (Photo courtesy of http://www.holidaychecker.de).  The foot traffic was heavy, in both directions.

The Right Bank is largely a Museum District.  There is one Catholic church near the river:  Deutschordenskirche, or German Medal Church.

It is not far from there that there were sizable crowds gathered along the river bank, until twilight- which was still ten o’clock.  This is the area called Schaumainkai. (Photo courtesy of http://www.skyscrapercity.com)

The Flohmarkt (Flea Market)  is also here during the day on Friday and Saturday. (Photo courtesy of http://www.panoramio.com)

There are about five large museums in this district.  Here are views of two of those:  Museum der Weltkulturen (World Cultures). (Photo courtesy of en.wikipedia.org)

and Museum Giersch, which houses art and other cultural treasures of the Main River Valley. (Photo courtesy of http://www.lonelyplanetimages.com)

It was time for me to go back across to the Hauptbanhof area, and take in the rest of the World Cup match, being televised at a Brasserie patio.  So, Friedensbruecke provided the means. (Photo courtesy of http://www.panoramio-frankfurt.de)

Although it appears to lie in a wealthy financial district, Friedensbruecke has a lively and prolific underground arts scene. (Photo courtesy of jwmn.naxosban.de)

The patio was full for a while, when  I arrived, so I stood at the railing for about a half hour.  A seat opened up and it was my turn for coffee and ice cream, while watching Team Germany prevail, 1-0.  I did not call attention to my secret longing for an American victory, needless to say.  The gentleman sitting at my table left, as soon as the match ended, but his credit card fold did not.  So, after getting that bit of hardware to the Brasserie manager, I savoured the rest of a very delectable mocha ice cream “Decadence”, before calling it a night.

NEXT:  The Baha’i House of Worship at Langenhain

June 25, 2014, Heidelberg- It says quite a bit about a city, when one of its most celebrated citizens is a scientist and educator.  I decided to stop in Heidelberg, on the way from Strasbourg to Frankfurt, and spend time in the Universitat district.  Robert Bunsen, chemist and inventor, is the first prominent person identified with Heidelberg to be honoured with a statue. Although Ruprecht-Karls-Universitat was the first university in Germany, established in 1386, Dr. Bunsen,in his work at the University of Heidelberg, upgraded the institution to one of the top centers of scientific research in Europe.  Besides the Bunsen Burner, he achieved a wealth of success in electrolyte research, and in advancing the metallurgy of magnesium.  With Gustav Kirchhoff, he discovered cesium and rubidium. (Photo courtesy of de.academic.ru)

Today, the above statue faces the remaining hall of Ruprecht-Karls Universitat, also called Haus-zum-Riesen, still a center for Physical Sciences. (Photo courtesy of data: image/jpeg; base 64)

I debarked the train at Heidelberg Hauptbanhof, had lunch and gave myself three hours to meander around the university and walk a bit along the right bank of the Neckar River.  The train station is a fair distance from Altstadt, the Old City, with its narrow streets and energetic demeanor- which always comes with being near a university setting. So, I took the reliable and crowded, but pleasant, tram.

Here is the Hauptbanhof.  Although spare outside, I found it a relaxing enough place to enjoy a Wurttemburg-style bratwurst. (Photo courtesy of jaxstumpes.blogspot.com)

The tram deposits its passengers for Altstadt at Bismarckplatz. (Photo courtesy of stadtblatt-online, ww2.heidelberg.de)

The old campus of the University of Heidelberg is just off the Universitatplatz, where a group of British school girls were fawning over a bearded twentysomething German student, by the fountain seen below.  Some things are just universal. (Photo courtesy of  www.globopix.de)

Here is another view of the main building of Alte Universitat. (Photo courtesy of data/image; base 64)

After World War II, American philanthropists helped establish Neue Universitat, with its emphasis on the Humanities and the School of Medicine. (Photo courtesy of sccs 10.uni-hd.de)

Other sites of interest in the immediate university campus are its Library, or Bibliothek, a beehive of activity on the day I was there.  That’s not surprising,as it was a Wednesday, and summer session finals week. (Photo courtesy of http://www.reisdit.no)

Studentenkarzer was the place where unruly students were sent, if convicted of an offense, by the Student Court.  Eventually, it became a farcical place, given to partying.  The practice of incarceration was transferred elsewhere, but the building is preserved, as a reminder of how things were done in the 14th-18th Centuries. (Photo courtesy of media-cdn.tripadvisor.com)

You can see just how punitive things turned out to be, in the long run. (Photo courtesy of http://www.travelswith divya.com)

Hexenturm, or the Witch’s Tower, is so-named to commemorate the cruelty of the Heidelberg Witch Trials of the Fifteenth Century.  It was originally used, however, to incarcerate thieves.  Part of the old wall of Heidelberg, it now stands on the grounds of Neue Universitat. (Photo courtesy of http://www.pausanio.de)

Heidelberg honours its lesser lights, as well.  One of these was Friedrich Ebert, the first President of Germany, under the Weimar Republic, from 1919-1925.  He ruled largely in an autocratic manner, with a fair amount of help from the military.  This may well have made it easier for Hitler to rise to power, but to Heidelberg, Ebert is still a native son.  His life’s work is still examined at the Ebert Memorial Institute, just west of the University. (Photo courtesy of ww2.heidelberg.de)

Now, let’s have a look at three churches of Heidelberg.  The first is a Catholic church, St. Anna, also west of campus.  It was originally a hospital. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.org)

Somewhat larger, and to the south a bit, is Peterskirche, which is ecumenical.  This is the University Church, first built in 1192, even before the campus.  It was modernized in 1986. (Photo courtesy of ww2.heidelberg.de)

Below Photo courtesy of http://www.peterskirche.heidelberg.de)

Thirdly, here is Jesuitenkirche, or Church of the Holy Spirit and St. Ignatius, in the heart of the university campus.  This is the largest Catholic parish church in Heidelberg. (Photo courtesy of data:image/jpeg base 64)

Time was getting short, as my train to Frankfurt would arrive soon.  I ended this all-too-brief excursion to this regal little city, with a nod to the barons of Heidelberg, and a view of Kongreshaus, overlooking the Neckar. (Photo courtesy of web02.city-map.de_)

The barons who lived in Heidelbergschloss, the great castle, which I am determined to visit three years hence, built Alte Brucke, the oldest standing bridge over the Neckar, in this area, in 1788.  It is actually the ninth such bridge built on this spot- the first having been built in the 13th Century.  To the right, one may gaze at the tower of the Rathaus, or Town Hall. (Photo courtesy of image 1.masterfile.com/em)

Frankfurt, the majestic Lord of the Main, has its share of iconic sites, but no place has anything on Heidelberg. I have the sense that I have only scratched the surface on the land of my maternal ancestors, anyway.

Next up:  Playgrounds Along the Main.

June 24, 2014, Strasbourg- Of all the cities in France I visited this summer, Strasbourg presents itself in the most modern of lights, and, by a small margin, it is the cleanest.  There is not an appreciable difference in ethnic make-up, nor are there that many fewer apartment dwellers here.  Perhaps the presence of the European Parliament, on a day-to-day basis, leads to more social consciousness.  There is also a more Germanic sense of order here, than elsewhere in La Belle France. Strasbourg was ruled by German royalty, throughout the Middle Ages and again from 1871-1918.

The first signal that this city was going to be different came at Gare Centrale, the train station. It’s covered by a plexiglass dome, resembling a  crystal dirigible. (Photo courtesy of fr.wikipedia.org)

(Photo courtesy of http://www.geodruid.com)

I got directions to my hotel-LePetit Trianon.  It is not, outwardly, a palace.  It is on a narrow side street, though close to the commercial centre.  The manager is only 25, but has a very shrewd business acumen, and will no doubt rise quickly, in a keenly competitive market.  She looks like Keira Knightley, but talks like a kinder, gentler Leona Helmsley-nobody’s fool.  I like Le Petit Trianon. (Photo courtesy of Hotels.com)

I had limited time to explore Strasbourg, before attending a Baha’i spiritual gathering, similar to that which I attended in Rouen, earlier in my sojourn.  This was not hard, though, as the city centre is compact, and there is a reliable trolley.

First was the largest of Strasbourg’s many Calvinist churches:  St. Pierre Le Vieux. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.org)

Once again, I did not venture inside any  of the churches, save Cathedrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg.

The next stop was three bridges down the Lill Canal.  Here was Place de la Republique. (Photo courtesy of http://www.ratestogo.com)

This is a monument to Those Dead in Winter- an homage to all who died in the harsh and combative winter of 1944-45. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.org)

On the west side is Palais du Rhin, a structure built by Wilhelm I, after Germany seized Strasbourg during the Franco-Prussian War.  It is now a cultural center of Alsace.  It is the structure seen in the photo above.  On the east side of the park are two structures.  First is La Bibliotheque Nationale d’Alsace. (Photo courtesy of generys.services.com)

Adjacent to the Library is La Theatre Nationale d’Alsace. (Photo courtesy of http://www.en.strasbourg.eu)

I crossed the street, and the bridge, to L’Opera Nationale. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons. wikipedia.org) The statue of the golden horse attracted a few homeless people, but they didn’t hang around long. I saw fewer homeless here than elsewhere in Europe, in fact.

This area, Place Broglie, is bounded on the east by Strasbourg’s City Hall (Hotel de Ville).(Photo courtesy of http://www.prixfacone.com)

Strasbourg, like Metz, has a Temple Neuf.  This served as a hospital, in the early medieval period.  It lies at the south end of Place Broglie, directly west of Strasbourg Cathedral.(Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.org)

Notre Dame de Strasbourg casts a majestic air to what is otherwise a spare concrete desert.  This Gothic giant is the main remnant of Catholicism, in what is a largely Protestant enclave of Alsace. (Photos courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.com)

From here, I briefly visited Palais Rohan.  This has nothing to do with The Lord of the Rings.  It housed the Bourbon kings and queens, on their visits to Alsace.  Today, it houses Strasbourg’s major art museums. (Photo courtesy of http://www.visiterstrasbourg.com)

The entry way is framed by an arch, on the west flank.(Photo courtesy of francoisclaude.wordpress.com)

The courtyard evokes Versailles, sans gold. (Photo courtesy of http://www.commons.wikipedia.com)

Along the Canal de Lill, I came to Corbeau, and the old Customs House (Hotel de la Douane). (Photo courtesy of http://www.panoramie.com)  As you might guess, the canals take the place of parks, as the center of social life in Strasbourg.

Nowhere is more crucial to this than La Petite France, the area of three covered bridges, built by the edict of Louis XV. (Photo courtesy of http://www.shutterstock.com)  Then, as now, this was France’s window on the Rhine.

La Terrasse Panoramique was the Bourbons’ window on the great river, and was built by Sebastien de Vauban, the great military strategist. (Photo courtesy of JM Rauschenbach @ http://www.clipimage.net)

It was time for me to leave the crowds at La Petite France behind, and join my Baha’i friends at their centre, on Rue des Veaux.  It is in a densely-populated, but well-lit neighbourhood.  Alsace has been a forward-looking area, and I felt a welcoming spirit here.  (Photo courtesy of http://www.espaces-commerces.fr)

So, my time in France wound down on a very sweet note.  My thanks to all the Baha’i friends in Strasbourg for the uplifting Spiritual Feast, and to all, across the areas of Alsace and Lorraine who made these two days richer and more informative than I had anticipated. It would shortly be time to return to Germany, for four quick days.

June 23, 2014, Metz-  Metz on a work day is quieter along the river, but no less frenetic about the streets and alleys.  I was given to overthinking about certain directions I was given, before finding the store where I could get the laundry soap I so desperately needed, with eight days worth of dirty clothes.  It’d be the last chance I had to get the clothes done, before heading back to the States on Sunday, since Frankfurt’s laundries pretty much shut down at 8 PM, Friday night.  So, thanks to ResidHome, a big headache was made less.

Walking back along Avenue Foch, towards the University District, I saw more activity than on Sunday (Photo courtesy of marc.metz.moselle.eklablog.com)

You can see that this rather industrialized city goes to considerable lengths to maintain beauty.  Now, let’s look at Saint-Pierre aux Nonnaines, near the Water Park, which I visited on June 22.  The young lady minding the church waited for me to complete my meanderings, before closing up and heading for the rest of her day.  This never ceased to touch my heart- the way the students who kept watch over tourist sites went out of their way to accommodate.  At any rate, this edifice began life in 380 AD, as a Roman gymnasium.  It was converted into a church in the Seventh Century.  Since 1970, it has been Metz Water Park’s concert hall.(Photos, courtesy of en.wikipedia.org)

My next stop, in Coeur de Ville, the Heart of Old Metz, was Temple Neuf, which overlooks the Moselle. This German Lutheran church was built in 1904, while Lorraine was under German rule. (Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/wolfgangstaudt).

Having spent time around Metz Cathedral on Sunday evening, I focused the rest of my time in Coeur de Ville checking out L’Opera Theatre and reading my e-mails, courtesy of Nicolas, the kind clerk at Metz Tourist Office.  Below, is L’Opera Theatre. (Photo courtesy of tout-metz.com)

It was lunch time, as  I left Coeur de Ville, and headed into the University District.  “Boogie Burger”, a tiny, new emportee (take-out) establishment, fit my mood perfectly.  I selected my second, and last, American-style cheeseburger and frites of the trip, and found a nice picnic spot along the Moselle.  It was a bit of a challenge finding a spot that was not within eyesight of couples trying for a few minutes of mid-day privacy, but I did find it, and reveled in the quiet warmth.

Walking along the bridges and alley, west of the University of Lorraine au Metz, I came upon Le Pont des Morts, so named because it was built in the thick of Metz’s being ravaged by the Black Plague. You can spot Temple Neuf and Metz Cathedral, to the north and west, respectively. (Photo courtesy of http://www.metz.fr)

I made a brief visit to the campus of the University of Lorraine au Metz, just to get a feel for the ambiance of a collegiate setting in France.  Many people were about outside, as it seemed to be the tail-end of the lunch hour, which in France is still nearly two hours. (Photo courtesy of poncelet.sciences.univ-metz.fr)

The route to the great towers and ramparts of northwest Metz took me past three more houses of worship.

First was L’Eglise Saint-Vincent.  This Gothic church is, along with Metz Cathedral, a reminder of the three-hundred years when Metz was a Free City, within the German Confederation.(Photo courtesy of saintvincentmetz.wordpress.com)

The next house of worship was the Synagogue de Metz, built in 1609.  Louis XIV visited this temple, with his younger brother, in 1657. The future Louis XVIII would visit there as well, prior to the social conflagration which led to his brother’s and sister-in-law’s deaths.  (Photo courtesy of commons.wikimedia.org)

L’Eglise Sainte Segolene, named for an Albigensian Christian, Segolene, who preached a gospel of simplicity and fervour, in Metz, during the Thirteenth Century, was itself built in 1250, on the site of an earlier chapel.  (Photo courtesy of  edifices.religieux.free.fr)

As I did not enter any of these buildings, and want to keep this as authentic an account of my own sojourn, in the absence of my photos, let us continue onward, to Le Tour des Esprits, and the Ramparts.  Here, I encountered small groups of families, enjoying an early day of summer vacation. The largely Roma, North African and Congolese residents of this area, and of the apartments near Bellecroix, view outsiders with a fair amount of suspicion.  It was with surprise and relief, therefore, that a woman whose child had tossed a soccer ball outside the fenced play area, saw me waiting a safe distance away, while she went and retrieved the ball.

First, you see the Rampart Walk, along the moat built by the Council of Metz, to keep out raiding neighbours, in the chaotic Thirteenth Century. (Photo courtesy of marc.metz.moselle.eklablog.com) 

 The walls, of course, were more formidable.  This is Tour des Esprits. (Photos courtesy of commons.wikimedia.org)                      

Commons.wikimedia.org also offers this view of Pont des Griles de la Basse Seille, the bridge which connects Tour des Esprits with the rest of the fortress.

As you can imagine, I was one of five or six visitors who got up on the ramparts and followed the walkway, as well as going down and exploring the moat path, until it was blocked by a medieval wall.

Here is a view of Tour du Diable, the easternmost segment of this fortress.

I proceeded to Tour des Chandeliers, one of the towers built by guild members, to safeguard their trades.  The candlemakers put up this impressive fortification. (Photo courtesy of commons.wikipedia.org)

Now for the piece de resistance of the Metz Ramparts:  Le Port des Allemandes.  This magnificent structure was built by the Knights Teutonic, an order of health care providers, who offered a hospice nearby, as the area dealt with the aftermath of Black Plague.  The bridge spans the Seille River, which flows into the Moselle, a bit further to the south and west.  I was not permitted to enter the fortress, for safety reasons.  There seemed to be a fair amount of renovation going on. (Photo courtesy of commons.wikimedia.org)

After tooling around in the woods between east Metz’s business center and the apartments just north of Bellecroix, I got as close to the hilltop fortress, as current conditions allowed.  The stairs to the hilltop were broken, and a length of yellow “Interdit” tape stretched across the base.  So, here are some views of the wall’s base. (Photo courtesy of commons.wikimedia.com)

(Photo courtesy of stewdgm.wordpress.com)

(Photo courtesy of tout-metz.com)

This narrow portal connects the old road to Bellecroix with the housing schemes to the north and east.  It is the south gate of Double Couronne, the twin crowns, or fortresses of Moselle and Bellecroix. (Photo courtesy of structurae.net)

My visit to Metz was coming to an end, but, as you can see, it was a full one.  I will leave off with two final photos:  Place Saint-Louis, where the young and restless unwind, after a day or work or study, and a shot of one of the apartment megaplexes, where the poor and struggling look out towards Bellecroix, and wonder who would defend them, in time of danger.  It is in pondering these scenes, and being confronted briefly by some children who were wondering why I was in their neighbourhood, while en route to Bellecroix (“Monsieur, the other whites are not nice to us here.  We must be wary.”), that gave me pause to consider the depth of the camaraderie I saw in places like Paris and Rennes. (Photo below courtesy of commons.wikimedia.com)

(Photo courtesy of bellx-57070.skyrock.com)

I fully intend to return to Metz, and Strasbourg, take more photos and listen further to the voices of the dispossessed.  It is, after all, what Aimee Cesaire would want a world citizen to do.  Besides, American soldiers did stand for the people of Metz, in 1944.  They were the Iron Men of Metz, from the 95th Infantry Division. (Photo courtesy of en.tracesofwar.com)

June 22, 2014, Metz- Today is the 28th anniversary of my father’s passing.  I think he is pleased that I was able to visit the home city of his paternal ancestors:  Rouen.  He would also approve of my visit to Luxembourg, a small, hard-working city of unpretentious people. I started the day with another visit to Luxembourg’s Baha’i National Centre.  This time, I met the caretaker and was allowed to take some time to pray and meditate in the large meeting room, although it was officially closed.

He graciously took me over to the home of another Baha’i family, for a devotional gathering, followed by a delicious brunch. I was very much touched by the melodious voices of the Baha’i youth, who joyfully sang their prayers and devotional tunes.  We all joined in chanting “Allah’u’abha” (“God is the All-Glorious”),and several adults said prayers in French, Portuguese, Persian and Magyar.  Yes, I said a prayer in English, for the success of an upcoming gathering at the Baha’i House of Worship, in Frankfurt, which I would visit later in the week.  Here is the group, my finest Luxembourgian friends.

The chef, sixth from left, prepared an exquisite meal for us

So, my friends in Nashville, John and Mary, that is the REAL reason I went to Luxembourg 🙂

After the brunch, Madame showed me her prolific garden.  I gladly accepted a bag full of sour cherries, from this tree.

The back yards are long and narrow, but every centimeter is put to good use.

With this lovely send-off, I was driven back to Hotel Vauban, and made my way to the train station.  I was soon en-route to Metz, capital of Lorraine.  It did  not take more than an hour to get there. The train station in Metz is majestic. ( If you sense a difference in the quality of the photo, it’s unfortunately very simple.  My photos from Metz to my departure from Frankfurt were lost in a mishap with the computer.  I will be accrediting the photos that are not watermarked, as I am borrowing them from Google.)

(Above, courtesy of @ arielbravy.com.)

(Below,courtesy of ResidHome, LLC.)

I walked at a brisk pace down the road a bit, to ResidHome-Metz, a large, modern hotel, which seems to cater to single male workers.  The desk staff is courteous, but firm with the rules.  The young women who are chambermaids are attentive to their tasks, but want no contact with the male guests.  This could very well be the fruit of some rather nefarious acts, in times past.  All I wanted there was exactly what I received:  Professional courtesy.

I had lots of daylight left, so the destination was first Avenue Foch, named for the great French commander of World War I, then to the banks of the Moselle and its canals. Here are some of the row houses, which accommodate immigrant workers, along Avenue Foch.  (Photo courtesy of forum.skyscraperpage.com)

Metz Cathedral, by day and night, is a spectacle worthy of an hour or more.  I had the former, and again was most impressed. (Photo courtesy of panoramio.com.)

(Above photo, courtesy of hdrcreme.com.)    (Below, courtesy of en.wikipedia.com)

Let’s go down to the Citadelle, and along the banks of the Moselle and its network of barge canals.  It seemed much of Metz was there, on that bright, beautiful Sunday afternoon and evening.  I enjoyed a kebab sandwich, ice cream cone and mineral water, amusing the college-student servers with my earnest, but halting French.  The furtive young couples in the Citadelle did appreciate my quick exiting their little nooks. (Photo courtesy of fodors.com)

Fathers and sons were fishing.  Teen boys were pestering teen girls.  A toddler was in awe of the swans and ducks, which were prolific along the Moselle.  Bicyclists were also prolific and moving with a purpose that reminded me of Ghent and its jam-packed sidewalks.  The bridges were certainly jam-packed in Metz.

(Photo below, courtesy of flickr.com)

(Photo below, courtesy of indigoguide.com)

I made a  mental note to explore the university quarter and old city more thoroughly, as well as going up to Bellecroix, on Monday.  It would be one of my longest and most intense days of this journey.  Today, though, had been a pleasant day among many carefree Lorraignais.