The Road to Diamond, Day 336: The Bright Lights

0

October 29. 2025- The longest journey I have ever undertaken, across the largest number of countries, would be meaningless, but for the people I met along the way, who made Europe in general feel like a giant Home Base and certain places feel as homey as Prescott, Oley or Grapevine.

Above all the rest was my Nynashamn family: Sarah, Matias and their children. First Camp was my lodging, and it is salubrious, the perfect blend of forest and sea. My heart’s home, though, was that little apartment on a hill, Home Base #4.

Not far behind were Boris, in Split, with his hospitality and knowledge of the Dalmatian coast and its antiquity; Adis, in Sarajevo and Srebrenica, bringing the struggles of the Bosnian people into stark relief, without vilifying the present Serbian people who live among them; Lisa, Pupak and Alan, in Findhorn, giving me Home Base # 5, with the energy and spirit of the northeastern Scottish coast, mixed with a sense of mysticism; Sian, in Fishguard & Goodwick, going out of her way to make sure I felt welcome; Badi, in Reykjavik, taking time form his schedule to welcome me to the Icelandic Baha’i Center; Sasha, in Vienna, guiding me around the Baha’i National Center and the volunteers at the Baha’i House of Worship, Langenhain. My gratitude also to the Baha’i friends of Dublin, for including me in the Twin Holy Day celebrations and to Carmel, who came from Derry and met me in mid-town Dublin, albeit for a short while.

People I met randomly, along the way, also stay in my heart: The concierge at START Hostel, Keflavik, who did my laundry on short notice and summoned a taxi driver, to guide me around Thingvellir (Junction of two tectonic plates) and the geysers that are continuously spewing forth, not far from there; the driver himself, with his deep knowledge of the Reykjanes Peninsula; servers who made me feel like family, at Gray Cat, Bao Bites, Reykjavik Fish (Reykjavik) Take Off Bistro(Keflavik); Brod & Salt; Grain Cafe, Meno Male, Mahalo and La Solo (Stockholm); Espresso House, and Taco Bar(Nynashamn); Wisby Hof, Cafe Amalia and Visby Ost (Visby); The Rib House (Helsingor); Mr. Pho (Copenhagen); St. Christopher’s Cafe (Berlin);Pryztanek Pierogarnia (Krakow); Chata na Zaborskiej (Oswiecim); Konoba Fratelli (Split); Restaurant Sebilj (Sarajevo); Station Bar and Cafe (Ljubljana); Stadtalm Naturfreund Restaurant (Salzburg); Eden Hotel Restaurant (Munich); Joe Molese Burgers and Sandwiches (Heidelberg); Main Kai (Frankfurt am Main); Hotel Strasbourg Dining Room (Strasbourg); The Coffee Shop (Metz); JOST Hostel Italian Cafe (Le Havre); IBIS Hotel Breakfast Bar (Portsmouth, UK); Cote French Cafe (Salisbury, UK); Rose and Crown Inn Dining Room (Goodwick, UK); Coast Hotel Dining Room (Rosslare, Ireland); La Rendezvous and Ne Zha (Dublin); NUVA and Burgers & Beers (Edinburgh); The Captain’s Table (Findhorn); The Pheasant Inn and The Flying Egg (Harlington). There were also the homeless couple on the train from Newhaven to Portsmouth, the tourist office clerk in Budapest,the souvenir vendor in Heidelberg and the admission clerk at Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin, who showed particular concern fro my well-being.

HI Loft (Reykjavik); First Camp (Nynashamn); Hotel Skandia (Helsingor); Generator Hostel (Copenhagen); St. Christopher’s Hostel (Berlin); Villa Centro (Oswiecim); Red Radisson (Vienna); Stadtalm Naturfreund (Salzburg); Alora Heart of Zagreb and Mickey Mouse Apartment (Zagreb); Hotel Pax (Split); Guest House Yildiz (Sarajevo); Lotte Backpackers Hostel (Heidelberg); Hotel Strasbourg Montagne Verte(Strasbourg); Hotel Escurial (Metz); Rose and Crown (Fishguard & Goodwick); Home from Home (Rosslare) and Argyle Backpackers Hostel (Edinburgh) were standout lodging facilities. While I had no substandard experience anywhere, those are places I would recommend to the adventurous soul.

There are seven weeks of gratitude, in a few long paragraphs. I have taken today off, pretty much, other than going through two boxes of mail and old newspapers (The delivery man and the front office at Gannett don’t seem to communicate much). Two months are left to me, at Home Base Prescott. More about what lies ahead in November, December and beyond, in the next post.

The Road to Diamond, Day 335: Westward Arc

2

October 28, 2025- I am back at Home Base I. The story of how I got back, after seven weeks on the continent of most of my forebears, is a reflection on our times.

Up early, and bidding farewell to Apple Guest House, I walked to Harlington Village and found Premier Laundry. The kind proprietor took in my dirty clothes and said he needed two hours to get the job done. It was 9 a.m., so I spent time in the village park, doing devotions and reflecting on the journey now coming to a close. Breakfast then came, at The Flying Egg Cafe, a “breakfast all day” establishment that is popular with locals. The owners, from Pakistan, did a fabulous job with my “Airport Breakfast”, a lighter version of such full English offerings as “Lumberjack” and “Builders” breakfasts. I relaxed for about 1 1/4 hours there. By the time I got back to Premier, the clothes were ready, and I took time to repack my backpack, in th estore’s foyer.

It took two buses to get from Harlington to Heathrow Terminal 5, but I was there in short order. Check-n and security were easy, and I was in the cavernous area near the gates, by noon. Giraffe World Kitchen was too enticing to pass up, so I ordered chicken quesadillas, as today was a Tuesday, and that usually means Mexican food. (I knew British Airways would give us two meals, but there was no telling, at this point, how long it would take to even board the plane.)

Once the flight was posted, I made my way to the proper gate. Then, the first announcement came-“flight delayed by ten minutes”. It is never ten minutes. Any reason to set back a flight means that either there is a mechanical issue, a software problem or something is amiss on the other end of the flight. Two hours later, the boarding process began. The overly officious young man at the desk, who had taken to snipping at various passengers, was sent somewhere else and a group of young ladies processed us with fair dispatch. I later learned that there had been a back-and-forth between Heathrow and those responsible for air traffic control assignments in Washington-with our British hosts insisting on knowing for certain that the plane would not have to circle around Phoenix or be directed elsewhere, once the plane was near destination. That is what took two extra hours.

The flight itself was lovely. I got four hours of sleep, watched three films and enjoyed both meals. My seatmate, from France, has a home near Phoenix and told of his enjoyment of the Arizona desert. The first film, “The Salt Path”, with Jason Isaacs and Gillian Anderson, told the story of a chronically ill man and his wife who lose their home to speculators, then embark on a trek along England’s South West Coast Path, starting at Poole and eventually making their way to Penzance, Cornwall. It is a story of a terminally ill man’s triumph, through both the love of his wife and his gradual recognition that he had the strength within him to overcome the hardest adversity.

Next was an Indian film, “Bramayugam”, (The Age of Madness), which told the story of a folk singer who wanders into a mana (mansion) that is inhabited by a master, his cook and a “trapped” goblin. The “master” is fact the goblin, who has trapped the real master and has him in chains. The cook is in fact the true master’s illicit son. The story is classic good vs. evil, with a twist at the end.

The third film that came my way was “Doctor Sleep”, the sequel to “The Shining”. It tells the story of adult Danny Torrance, who has grown up struggling to hold down a job and even to live a normal life, following the death of his mother by natural causes, when he was 20. He continues to exhibit the “shining” (extreme intuition), and becomes connected to a young girl, who has an even stronger version of the shining. They are targeted by a group of vampires, who seek to dominate through gradually killing off anyone with such abilities. The story follows a predictable path, but not without a great deal of loss on both sides.

After “Doctor Sleep” came sleep of my own, then “dinner” (at 6 p.m., MST, over the plains of North Dakota and eastern Montana). We landed around 8 p.m., gathered luggage,then went through a surprisingly easy inspection by ICE and walked back to Terminal 4. I caught the 9:20 p.m. shuttle, having missed the van on which I was originally supposed to ride. As luck would have it, there was one seat left on the 9:20, and the person who reserved it was himself on a delayed flight. Thus, I rode back to Prescott and was at Home Base I by 11:45.

“Every new beginning comes from some other beginning’s end”- Dan Wilson. “Closing Time”

The Road to Diamond, Day 334: Long Train Running

0

October 27, 2025, Harlington, England- “Wonder of wonders! We actually have a train that stopped in York!” The solid lady, nearly out of breath, had just raced across the station in the historic northern English city, after the earlier train that she and her husband were planning to board was canceled. She told me that only the train between Edinburgh and King’s Cross, London has York as one of its stops and not all the time.

I bid mar sin leat to Edinburgh, finding my way easily to Waverley Station from the Victoria Street bus stop. The train to King’s Cross was right on time for departure, with stops at several north English and eastern Midlands cities. There were no stops in the south of Scotland, so our first was at Newcastle-on-Tyne. The only things I knew about the now fairly updated city were that it was not the place to be shipping coals (Tyneside was a major producer of the mineral) and it is the home of Eric Burdon and the Animals, a well-known ’60s band. Newcastle became the only place where I snapped a photo, on this leg of the journey. Here is the River Tyne.

River Tyne, south of Newcastle

Most of the rest of the trip featured tracks with high berms, factory districts and tunnels. York might have been an exception, but I was engaged in concern for the hapless fellow passengers who were trying to catch their breath. By the time all were settled and happy, the great cathedral had long passed from view.

I have rekindled an appreciation for couples, along this 7-week journey. I find most Europeans along the way are quite happy in their relationships. This has been true across generations. It was nice to see a relationship form on this train, as a Mexican gentleman sat next to a Filipina woman and engaged her in a lengthy conversation. They left the train at King’s Cross, hand in hand.

Once at King’s Cross, I followed instructions and sought the Elizabeth Line. An older couple from the Midlands were headed in that general direction, so I tagged along with them, and got on the line to Reading, which let me off at Hayes-Harlington. From the bus stop, I joined a group of college students who were headed to a hostel, just not to Apple Guest House, my lodging for the night. My trusty locator got me to the front door of Apple, only to have no one answer the door bell, nor was there any message with a numerical code.

Piffle! The only thing to do was go to dinner. So, back I went, backpack, roller case and all, to The Pheasant Inn, just up the street. The host had seen this situation before, and calmly seated me at an inside table, I fetched an N/A and the counter attendant took my meal order. He also gave me the WiFi password, the subtle hint being that now I should call Apple’s contact number and leave a message, at least. Perfect! Within minutes, I had a message that served up the numerical code for the front door. Dinner was excellent and the ambiance of The Pheasant was as welcoming and relaxing as any place I’ve been, these seven weeks.

When I got back to Apple Guest House, the door was open, as a food delivery man, who also lives there, had just returned from a run. I made my way upstairs, and settled in for the last night in Europe. Apple’s rooms are small but comfortable, so I promptly left my initial annoyance in the dust bin.

Tomorrow, a long flight will take me back to the lovely Southwest.

The Road to Diamond, Day 330: A Grand Gallery and A Hidden Hotel

0

October 23, 2025, Dublin- The status of churches and cathedrals in Ireland, in terms of denomination, often needs a scorecard. Some great buildings are under the Church of Ireland. Others are under the Roman Catholic Church. One parish, St. Audoen’s, has one of each. (The Protestant building is under renovation.)

Into the morass of denominational turmoil, in the mid-19th Century, stepped the figures of al-Bab and Baha’ullah, Whose birthdays, close together on the Badi (Persian Lunar) calendar, we Baha’is celebrate in back-to-back Holy Days. The concept of Progressive Revelation explains the differences among the Faiths of the past and offers a way for those of all Faiths to reconcile.

Our observance of the Birth of Baha’ullah took place in the cafe of the National Gallery of Ireland. The arts are celebrated and honoured in the Baha’i traditions. So, in an environment of splendour, some 25 of us sat and discussed various topics of interest. Following the celebration, which of course included a slice of cake and beverage, of one’s choosing, some of us went to enjoy other rooms of the Gallery.

National Gallery of Ireland

The paintings I found of interest included John Lavery’s “Her First Communion”, Jan De Beer’s “The Flight Into Egypt”, Adam Pankraz Ferg’s “A Landscape with Figures and Horses”, Jack B. Yeats’ “Above the Fair”. None of these may be shown outside the Gallery, save on its website. Thus, there are no photos, even with watermarks.

Upon leaving the National Gallery, I headed to Dublinia, a museum dedicated to the interaction between Celts, Vikings and Norman French, over the centuries, in the development of the city.

Viking information, at Dublinia

As we learned in Reykjavik, and further in Stockholm, the word Viking most likely refers to one who lives near or comes from an area near, a vik– a bay or cove. Over time, it came to mean anyone who came to the British Isles or mainland Europe, from Scandinavia or Denmark.

Here is the basic truth about the founding of Dublin.

Origin of modern Dublin

The Vikings found two Celtic settlements in the area, one on each bank of the River Liffey.

Ath Cliath (u-thuh clee uh) and Duiblinn (dove-lin).
Interior of a simple peasant hut, during Viking rule
A street scene, in 14th Century Dublin
Looking down from the steps to St. Michael’s Tower, Dublinia

Looking at my watch, it did not seem wise to go up the steps to St. Michael’s Tower, as I normally would. There was a meeting with an old Baha’i friend, at a hotel across town, in a relatively short time. Iveah Gardens Hotel was shown to me as being at a major intersection in central Dublin, except that the people who worked at that location had never heard of it. They directed me westward, towards “a big building, that you can’t miss”. In other words, they couldn’t find it on their GPS, either.

I eventually did find an Iveah Court, an apartment building. The guard there thought it was back towards where I had just been, “but in any case, just walk straight, no turns”. Two inquiries later, I came upon Iveah Garden Hotel. It is indeed an elegant place, but is discretely signed. The young lady for whom Penny and I were mentors, in the 2000s, had grown into an elegant and well-spoken teacher of the French language, the promulgation of which was one of her principal reasons for being in Dublin. We got to catch up on the course of our respective lives, for twenty minutes in the hotel tea shop and fifteen minutes walking towards her work site.

Bidding farewell to C, I headed down Cameron Street, towards Temple Bar. I found Ne Zha, an intriguing Asian tapas cafe, which normally requires reservations. The owner found a stool, on which I could sit by the kitchen and observe the chefs at work. It was a fabulous small dinner that ensued.

Tomorrow, I bid farewell to Dublin and to Ireland, with its cousin to the northeast on my radar screen.

The Road to Diamond, Day 314: Back Across A Calm Border

0

October 7, 2025, Zagreb- The bus conductor pretended to be livid, shouting in Serbian: “Five minutes means five minutes!”, as I came back from seven minutes in a supermarket queue. Some things are more essential than others, and as he well knew, no one cuts in front of a mother and two children, with a modest basket of groceries. No one does that, anywhere in the world.

The driver shrugged his shoulders and made up the two lost minutes, once we were back on the highway. We didn’t stop again until the Croatian border. There, with two buses ahead of us, we sat for ten minutes. Then, we go out, and were exited by the Bosnian border police, got back on the bus, waited until our time to re-enter Croatia, and got back off the bus. We retrieved our luggage from the storage bins and fell in line again.

A pleasant, business-like young woman stamped everyone’s passport, checked to see that the bins were empty then joined her two colleagues in the baggage inspection room. We were especially selected for the spot check, because there were a few people on board from countries which were being watched by Europol. The U. S. is not among those countries, but I have nothing to hide, regardless. The passport stamper checked my bags, educating herself about American dietary supplements in the process. I was glad to oblige. I would proudly claim that woman as a daughter, the way she dove into her tasks and joined her teammates without being told.

The rest of the way was quiet, the conductor, who was now the driver, maneuvered his way through Zagreb’s rush hour traffic-hardly Los Angeles or Berlin, but a slowdown nonetheless. The first driver got off the bus at a truck stop and the rest of us went to the now familiar West Zagreb Terminal. From there, I caught a tram to near the Mickey Mouse Apartment-a variation on Alora-Heart of Zagreb, except the apartment was on the fourth floor, instead of in the basement. It was of similar size to Alora, and was across the hall from Mini-Suite, which had Madame Mouse on the front door. This start-up apartment business seems to be unique to Zagreb, but it’s a nice idea, even if it wouldn’t work for all travelers.

The day had started a bit less organized. Sarajevo is a larger city than one might think, and there is a world of difference between the Old Town and the modern downtown, which looks pretty standard. No one near the Miljacka River bank knew where the bus station was, but a bartender (open at 8:30 a.m.) said it was too far to walk. I caught a tram, advised by a university student, and a woman who had just taken her kids to school, that it was eight stops ahead. A young woman from Germany joined me in the luggage pile section, and we power-walked together to the bus terminal, doing a 10-minute walk in 7. She sat and waited for her bus, and I caught mine outside, leaving my Bosnian Mark coins with a destitute young man who stood, forlorn, on the platform.

Here are some scenes of the day.

Sacred Heart Cathedral, downtown Sarajevo
Miljacka River, Sarajevo
Outside Visoko, Bosnia
Bosna Bucha River, north of Visoko
Bosna Bucha River, near Zenica (Zeneesa). That town had the supermarket at the bus station.

Safely in Mickey Mouse Apartment, I bid all a good night. Tomorrow, it’s off to Salzburg, probably via Slovenia.

The Road to Diamond, Day 325, Part II: Robe and Town in Salisbury

0

October 18, 2025, Salisbury, England- I arrived at Victoria Lodge, on Salisbury’s north side, a little after 3. The kindly, proper host’s intel said that the last bus to Stonehenge would leave the train station at 4. She was going by the summer schedule, which ended on September 30.
I thanked her, and realized that the afternoon was meant for Salisbury Cathedral, a place that was set aside for special study by my Art History professor, in 1973.

The Cathedral Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary was originally at a site now called Old Sarum, as was the community of Salisbury. Old Sarum is now an English Heritage property, a recognized and well-preserved historical site. The community moved two miles south, to its present location, in the early 13th Century (1220) and the new cathedral was completed by 1330. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salisbury_Cathedral

I walked about the Cathedral Close (area outside the church) first, then took in the magnificence of the use of light, which so enthralled Dr. Eichholz, back in the 1970s, that we spent nearly two weeks on various aspects of Salisbury Cathedral.

Salisbury Cathedral, full exterior
“Walking Madonna”, by Dame Elisabeth Frink, north lawn of Salisbury Cathedral
North face of Salisbury Cathedral
Stained glass of North Side, Salisbury Cathedral
Transept, Salisbury Cathedral (above and below)
Nave, Salisbury Cathedral
Ceiling, Salisbury Cathedral
Chancel, with choir in practice, Salisbury Cathedral
Bumping Stone, Salisbury Cathedral-at which a new initiate into the choristry has his or her head bumped on the stone seven times, whilst the chorus sings.
Stained glass, above Baptismal Font, Salisbury Cathedral
Altar, Salisbury Cathedral
Explanation of Magna Carta, Chapter House, Salisbury Cathedral. The original was brought to Salisbury by Elias of Dereham, who had been at Runnymede, in 1215, and was now supervisor of the initial construction of the Cathedral.

The docent in Chapter House explained the course of the Magna Carta’s being first signed by King John, then repudiated by him, with the connivance of Pope Innocent IV. It was this papal duplicity that set the wheels in motion for the English Reformation, which took place 300 years later.

West Gate (Church Gate), Salisbury Town
River Avon, with Cathedral spire in background.
River Avon, serving as a canal, center Salisbury
Clock Tower, Salisbury City Centre

The center of Salisbury was packed with visitors, and many dining venues were expected to be packed. I had an early dinner at Cote, a French-style cafe, then walked back to Victoria Lodge, the day having been more than full-even without Stonehenge.

The Road to Diamond,Day 325, Part I: Portsmouth’s Daylight

2

October 18, 2025, Portsmouth, England- Dawn came, the ravers and revelers had gone home and it was time to ready for another train ride. So, after the morning routine, I headed down to breakfast-greeted cheerfully, with a bit of wariness, by the Scottish hostess. It was a lovely full English spread, with bacon, scrambled eggs, grilled tomatoes and baked beans-along with the buffet standards- fresh vegetables and fruit, croissants and toasting bread, a few pastries, hot and cold beverages. It looked to be the last such buffet on this journey, so I took my time and enjoyed.

After breakfast and devotions, it was time to see Portsmouth, on the morning after. There was no huge mess left over-the street crew had come early and was still out in force. I headed first, through the east end of Guildhall with the goal of the near waterfront.

Here are some scenes of a Portsmouth morning.

Triangular office building, Guildhall

Crossing the busy intersection, looking right, left and right again (It’s even written to do so, on the pavement), I walked past fields of young men practicing on the Rugby field-a Royal Navy facility. Portsmouth is RN headquarters, after all. At the end, there are the monuments to science and technology, with Spinnaker Tower to the right of the lower round building. Spinnaker is a place from which to get breathtaking views of Portsmouth, Southampton and the surrounding area. I had little time, though, before the scheduled train, so this was my look at the area.

Spinnaker Tower (center) and Science complex (round towers)
Street art (and “Sir Isaac Newton”) This rather offbeat focus on vision, and “sea aliens”, was at the entrance to the small wood that is in the background.

Heading back to IBIS, I retrieved my bags and started towards the train station. The majestic Guild Hall was no worse for the wear, after hosting many flirtatious youngsters and others, the previous night. It is now an event center, and does its job rather well.

Portsmouth Guildhall

Guildhall Square honours tradition.

Queen Victoria, Guildhall Square
Hampshire War Memorial

With that, I headed to the train station, expecting to board the train towards Salisbury. Yet, there was no train to Salisbury. Britrail has an occasional cancellation. This was one such. The Transit Officer explained what I would need to do to re-route, so about forty minutes later, I was on a train to Fareham, and from there to Southampton, where I changed trains again. The rigmarole meant that the train would arrive in Salisbury at 3 p.m. This meant that I would not be going to Stonehenge, as the last bus to that venerable site leaves at 2 p.m., during the “winter months”, which in tourism parlance include October.

This gave me more time to focus on Salisbury itself, and on its majestic Cathedral. More on them both, in the next post.

The Road to Diamond, Day 322: Still A Fine Metz

0

October 15, 2025, Metz- Stately Hotel Escurial is probably the easiest to find, of any hotel that hasn’t been right next to the Train Station (only the hotel in Helsingor, Denmark has fit that description). It is bordered by a health food grocer, with bright green lettering and the Hotel Cecil, which once catered to the British upper crust, is prominently to the west of Escurial. Besides, it has a regal Spanish ring to it.

I arrived here in mid-afternoon, the first stop of three, on a Strasbourg-Luxembourg route, which I last took in the opposite direction, in 2014. At that time, Metz was more a place for regrouping my energy, as Strasbourg was this time. Today was more about giving Metz the limelight.

I got my laundry done in Strasbourg, for the most part figuring out the instructions, which were in French, and managing to get the clothes washed and dried within the allotted time and walked back to Hotel Strasbourg, in plenty of time to return to the main train station. I even helped a college student and a disabled woman, just a little.

Once in Metz and settled in at Hotel Escurial, it was off to look at two different areas of the Old City. First, though, I had to get a new mouse for my computer. A shop was located about four blocks from Hotel Escurial, and the task was quickly done.

Hotel Escurial. Metz
Gare Centrale (Main Train Station), Metz
Gare Centrale (Main Train Station), Metz
Colour matters in Metz, the year round.
North Wall of Old City, with Water Tower in background
Old Water Tower, Metz
General Charles De Gaulle, at his square
Interior of Metz Cathedral (Above and below)
Stretching towards the sky, Metz Cathedral exterior (above and below)

Images of saints, Metz Cathedral
Spires on southwest corner of Metz Cathedral
Western side of Metz Cathedral
Abraham de Faubert, Marshal of France under Henry IV and Louis XIII. Marshal De Faubert established new methods of siegecraft, during the constant wars between England and France during the 17th Century. He is considered a key figure in the survival of the French State, in that uncertain period.
Arizona in Alsace-Lorraine
East Gate of Old City, Metz
Michel Ney, Napoleon’s sub-commander, who was from Lorraine. He was executed for treason, after Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo.

Three corkscrew spirals, Parc de Ney

My exploration of Metz was complete, for now. Dinner followed, being a simple toasted bagel with cream cheese and minced onion-at a small, cozy place named simply “The Coffee Shop”. It was a fitting end to a day devoted to a blend of simplicity and grandeur.

The Road to Diamond, Day 319: Gold at the Foot of the Schlosse

0

October 12, 2025, Frankfurt-am-Main- It was suggested by a fellow hosteler in Salzburg that I take dinner at Vetter’s, an authentic Bavarian establishment in Old Town Heidelberg. Apparently, a lot of Vetter’s fans were telling their friends the same thing. There was no room to be had there this evening. The reservation list stretched into next week.

I found another fabulous spot for dinner-Joe Molese Burgers and Sandwiches. More about Joe’s and its fabulous staff later. First off, though, some words about my stroll down the hill and around Old Town, in areas both full of my fellow travelers and others with only a few locals going about their affairs.

As I bid farewell to Schloss Heidelberg, it was the foliage that stood out.

Foliage at south end of Schlosse Heidelberg
Heiliggeistkirche (Holy Spirit Church), Heidelberger Alstadt

I continued looking for a place called the Red Church, wandering through the alleys near Heidelberg University.

University District
Rosenkirche, Heidelberg

I found the Red Church at the north end of Old Town.

Rosenkirche, Heidelberg
Heidelberg University, with Peterskirche in background
Peterskirche, Old Town Heidelberg

As I rounded a corner, there was an apartment courtyard, where a man was playing table tennis with his young daughter. Nearby was this gem of a mural.

Modernist mural, Old Town Heidelberg

and this:

Cubist leopard, Old Town Heidelberg

The girl’s favourites were these:

Pokemon characters, Old Town Heidelberg
Play space, Old Town Heidelberg
Bored face, Old Town Heidelberg
Guard tower, east end of Old Heidelberg
River Neckar, from Old Town Heidelberg (above and below)
Good luck Monkey, Old Bridge, Heidelberg

It’s said that to rub the gold orb will bring good fortune. many visitors were doing just that, before I took this photo.

Elector Karl-Theodor of Heidelberg

Karl-Theodor became Elector of the Palatinate in 1742 and united it with Bavaria in 1777, setting upon a program of economic modernization of this realm. He built the English garden in Munich and was an avid patron of the arts. In the long run, however, Karl-Theodor showed little interest in his realm, leaving it to Austrian and French invaders, in the 1790s. This statue shows that it was his earlier programs that matter most to posterity.

South Gate, Old Bridge, Heidelberg

Now, back to Joe Molese.

Joe Molese Burgers and Sandwiches, Old Town Heidelberg

This establishment provided the absolute best burger I have ever had-and that’s after a lot of hamburgers over 70 +years. It was not overly messy, such as I normally enjoy. It was simply flavourful and was not overshadowed by a mound of French fries. The lovely server and the effusive manager made everyone feels at home, despite the fact that the place was as packed as every other restaurant in Old Town, on Saturday night. When I went to pay, furthermore, it turned out that the young couple sitting to my right had already covered my tab! We had not spoken a word to one another, but there it was. I would go back to Joe Molese’s again, in a heartbeat.

Finally, this is the shop whose clerk helped me locate Lotte-The Backpackers Hostel. I bought a couple of items from her. It would be nice if more people patronized her little place.

My favourite souvenir shop, Old Town Heidelberg

It was not easy to say farewell to this enchanting place, but there was more joy waiting for me here in Frankfurt, and at the Baha’i House of Worship in Langenhain.

The Road to Diamond, Day 317: Double Tenth, Two Cities

0

October 10, 2025, Munich- I went down the 327 steps this time, bidding farewell to the paradise called Monchsberg and its shining star, Stadtalm Naturfreund. I would gladly walk up the steps again and stay there for three or four days.

It was time to have at least a brief look at Munich and see how that city is adapting to the changes that surely would have shocked the reactionary forces who caused such mayhem there, nearly one hundred years ago.

First, though, here is a bit more of Salzburg’s centrum.

Ancient German god of nature
Information about Gherkins sculpture (seen below)
Gherkins Sculpture, with Friedrich Schiller in the background. Schiller was one of Germany’s greatest Classical playwrights.

My breakfast companions had urged me to make mention of Sanktfranciskirche. It is the one church in Salzburg where anyone can find a safe haven, even if being pursued by police. It has not been put to the test recently, but there are many past examples of this.

Sankfranzikirche, Salzburg

Notice the open door below.

Salzburg Cathedral, my last stop before the Hauptbanhof and on to Munich.

The journey to the heart of Bavaria was uneventful. I had a bit of confusion, again because of WiFi loss, but finding The 4You Hostel was not hard, once I got bearings after stopping in a store for a couple of necessities. I even found a nice nearby hotel restaurant and enjoyed a good Bavarian dinner.

From what I have seen so far, Munich is every bit a multicultural and tolerant city-pretty much the opposite of what its leaders in the 1930s hoped to achieve. I will enjoy more of it tomorrow morning.