An Eastward Homage, Day 8: Versailles, Part 3- The Town

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Mesmerized as I was by the gold, marble and extraordinary spread of the chateau and its grounds and grand canal, finding the town that had both pre-dated the palace, and grown up around it, was a perfect finish to the day.

Versailles is not anywhere near the grey, troubled suburbs that I am told ring Ile de France.  It stands quite proudly on its own.

Here are some scenes from this marvelous little city.

First, here is Grande Ecurie du Roi (the King’s Stables), the first site I encountered, upon leaving the palace ground

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Next came the east end of the District of Notre Dame, named for- you guessed it, the cathedral. Every major city in France has a cathedral, or a parish church, named Notre Dame. The cathedral in Versailles could stand proudly next to any given counterpart in France.

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We will see the cathedral in a bit, but first, making my way westward, I found Eglise Protestante Unie de France. The Huguenots were terribly repressed by the House of Bourbon, making their presence in this town especially meaningful.

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Next to the Protestant church is Place Hoche. Louis Lazare Hoche was the commander of the Revolutionary Army. Louis Philippe I authorized statues of Hoche, as a token of national unity.

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It was then time for me to visit Cathedrale Notre Dame de Versailles. Here is a view of the heart of Distrite Notre Dame, followed by the cathedral itself.

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I could look at stained glass all day long, contemplating the interplay of light and colour. Here are a few of Versailles Cathedral’s offerings.

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Paintings and statuary interplay here as well.

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One noticeable difference between French churches and those in the U.S, is the seating arrangement.  many cathedrals in France have rows of small individual wooden chairs Some have seats of wicker.

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Upon bidding this fine little cathedral farewell, I came upon a pigeon which was quite different in colour from the rest of the considerable flock, along Rue Rameau.

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Next, slightly to the north, was Distrite des Antiquaires (Old City). Old Versailles is not as ancient as some of the other cities I visited, but the streets are quite narrow.

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Hotel du Bailliage was used as a prison by the Bourbons. Just behind it, to the east, is Little Italy, Versailles-style.

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Hotel Cheval Rouge was built in 1676, and remains one of Versailles’ premier establishments.

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Also in Distrite des Antiquaires is Hopital Olivie, a key facility during the 19th Century.

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I stopped at an old dairy, Goutte du Lait, only to have a rather stern father tell me this was his daughter’s pre-school. I was allowed one photograph.

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Child safety always being one of my own passions, I headed towards Distrite d’Hotel de Ville.  City Hall stands, proud and imposing, in the center of it all.

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Here is a view of Hesperides des Les Maneges, a prime apartment complex.

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Cathedral de Saint-Louis, across town from Notre Dame, is also quite impressive. I joined a laid-back pair of artistes for a short tour, whilst waiting for the train back to Paris. This cathedral seemed somewhat lighter and airier than Notre Dame de Versailles. It is named in honour of St. Louis the King.

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Thus, my very full day in Versailles came to a happy close. To celebrate, I had a fine dinner near my hotel. If you are ever on Rue de Faubourg Montmartre, I recommend Restaurant Sizin, a full-service Turkish establishment. This is a cut above the ubiquitous kebab shops, which I also frequented during my journey. (“Eat Me” is a different establishment, and my curiosity didn’t get the better of me.)

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NEXT: Day 9, Part 1: A Visit to La Louvre.

An Eastward Homage, Day 8: Versailles, Part 1- The Chateau

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Be forewarned, this post is heavy on photos, and tends towards gaudiness, but that is Chateau de Versailles- and those were the Bourbons.  It is an exhausting place to visit, but I am glad to have gone through the chateau first.  The gardens, and the town of Versailles, are most refreshing.

I am glad to have gone through all the chambers, and great halls, as they tell the story of  several men’s excesses, on the backs of their fellows, as well as any other great monument around the world.  If you are put off by all the gold and finery, you are in a good place.  We all know to what this excess led.

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We start in the front courtyard, where one gets a sense of the enormity of the completed palace. Know that this chateau was intended as a place of refuge for Louis XIV and his successors. Versailles, from the 16th-19th centuries, was very much a country town. Paris, then as now, was lovely, exciting- and exhausting, for the royals as for everyone else.

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The first gilded gate, the detail of the front entry point and the ceiling of the antechamber follow. Creation and classical mythology are themes covered over and over by the architects and landscapers of Versailles: Andre Le Notre, Charles Le Brun, Jules Hardouin-Mansart and, under Louis-Philippe I, Frederic Nepven.

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Next, two mythological characters, depicted in statuary, greet visitors as we go through a series of halls that tell the history of the chateau, from Louis XIV to the time of Louis-Philippe I, who bestowed this magnificent place upon the people of France, as THEIR treasure.  The gold, the marble and the enormity thus reverted to their truly rightful owners. These are followed by “Tres Casques”, great gold pieces, representing helmets.

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Moving along, we see a portrait of Marie Antoinette, her son, the Dauphin, and his attendant, Madame Royale. Next is Louis-Philippe, mounted on horseback, followed by his architect, Frederic Nepven.

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Up the staircase, and down another long hall we go, to the salons. A series of halls, each named for a particular Roman god or goddess, were used by Louis XIV for regular audiences. Salon de Diane, for example, was used as a buffet room. Salon d”Apollon was a concert hall. Salon de Mars was the ballroom.

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Three scenes from the Hall of Mirrors are next,(photos 22-24). This great hall was constructed under the supervision of Louis XIV’s crafty Treasure, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, who brought in several Venetian mirror craftsmen, at great peril to themselves, to fashion this great hall. It links the King’s bed chamber with that of the Queen. Louis had himself as the focus of the portraits and statuary.

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Views of the Queen’s bedchamber follow, with the famed portrait of Napoleon I, crowning first Empress Josephine, then himself, as a later addition to Court de la Reine.

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A view of the Inner Courtyard is next, and we finished our tour of the Chateau with visits to the apartments of Louis XV’s spinster daughters, Madame Victoire and Madame Adelaide. These ladies had little use for Marie Antoinette, their niece-in-law, and heeded the warnings by the peasant women who marched on Versailles, in 1789, leaving the Chateau for Italy, then for Greece, where they lived out the rest of their lives together.

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The story of the Bourbons is a hard one, in the end, and fully illustrates how it is that we all have to hang together in this life, not vaunt ourselves over one another.

NEXT:  The Palace Gardens