The Road to 65, Mile 33, Part II: The Gate Stayed Open

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December 31, 2014, Prescott-  When I returned to North America, on 6/29/14, I had the pleasure of a long and varied conversation with a fascinating young lady from Montreal, who is a baker by trade.  The flight back was thus energizing, rather than draining.

July- I spent the first week of July visiting family in the Boston area.  My brother, SIL and I took in a Red Sox game on July 2, which was as marvelous an experience as the team itself was awful, in its play. Fenway Park and the surrounding area are old enough to be somewhat a cross, to me, between old Europe and the modern U.S.  Our fireworks, two days later, were rained out, but some local youths tried anyway- so we had some sky colours.  Going back to Phoenix was an experience.  I ended up staying overnight in Charlotte, as the plane out of Boston was delayed for six hours, due to some problem in Miami, of all places.  At least this way, I didn’t get to Phoenix at 1:30 A.M., so the Universe was looking out for me, in an oblique way.

August-  The interment of my father-in-law’s remains, in Arlington National Cemetery, brought me back to the East Coast, at the beginning of the month, for four days. This was the least a grateful nation could do for him.  I also visited several war-related places on the National Mall, and the 9/11 Memorial west of the Pentagon.

In a rustic camp, west of Prescott, a group of us formed a well-running team, serving Slow Food Prescott’s 50-Mile Dinner,consisting entirely of ingredients from within a fifty-mile radius of our town.

September- In the middle of the month, I drove from Prescott to Salt Lake City, for an annual convention.  Staying in a cheap, Baha’i-owned motel and scrimping where I could, got me through this time, and still I got a  lot out of the convention itself.  Driving all the way back home, in one fell swoop, though, is probably something I would prefer to avoid in the future.

October-  There is very little I won’t do for my son, the only responsibility I really still have, outside of self-care.  When he called, in July, and said I was on the list to take part in the ship’s return cruise, from Honolulu to San Diego, I got the paper work done, made flight arrangements to Honolulu, and enjoyed  1 1/2 days in that exquisite city.  Waikiki, Iolani Palace and Pearl Harbor were each every bit as fascinating as others had said.  The cruise itself was 6 1/2 days, and I learned much about day-to-day shipboard life and about the many hues of blue and aquamarine that are visible from the deck.  After a short few days in San Diego and Crystal Cove State Beach, I drove home, exhausted and just wanting to be in Prescott again.

November-  The month was quiet, until  Thanksgiving weekend.  I went back to San Diego, enjoyed the holiday with Aram and a friend, in Julian, and celebrated my 64th, in low-key fashion, visiting La Jolla and enjoying a Korean lunch.

December- Western New Mexico was where Penny and I first met, 34 years ago, in the Pueblo of Zuni.  I had a salubrious visit to some of our old favourite spots:  El Morro National Monument, with ancient Puebloan ruins and petroglyphs/inscriptions of several time periods and Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, with its myriad sandhill cranes and raptors.  The town of Truth or Consequences, named for a 1940’s and ’50’s radio/TV show, was a lovely revelation.  Its Old Town, centered around the original hot springs resorts, kept me fascinated to the point where my original plan, of visiting the Gila Cliff Dwellings, was put off until another date.  Paying respects to the Apache chief Cochise was accomplished, as was Christmas Eve and Day with some friends who had moved to the Tucson area, from Oklahoma.  The 30th annual Grand Canyon Baha’i Conference was a fitting end to this most filling of years. We got eight inches of snow, on New Year’s Eve.  I rang in the new, by watching Prescott’s midnight fireworks, from my front porch.

A Small Time Mariner’s Voyage, Days 2 &3, Part One: Amid Spouting Waters

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October 12 & 13, Honolulu-  In five hours’ time, I found myself having left behind the measured bustle and polyglot ambiance of San Diego for- the measured relaxation and polyglot ambiance of Honolulu.  Seated beside me on the flight was a quiet, demure and mildly cordial Native Hawaiian woman, headed home.  This brought to mind the warnings I had gotten from some in Arizona, that “Locals in Oahu don’t like haoles (Caucasians).”  I didn’t get the vibes from her, or any other person in Honolulu, that I was particularly disliked; then again, I rarely have gotten those vibes from any person of colour- save the occasional drunk.   I take each person as I would have him or her take me.  It works, by and large. Hawai’i ought to be seen, first and foremost, as the sacred land of a deeply cultured and spiritual people- just like anywhere in the Americas.

I met my son, Aram, at Honolulu International Airport.  We took a Honolulu city bus to my hotel in Waikiki, sharing stories with a Brazilian man who was in the midst of a round-the-world journey.  He had much to say about Korea, India, Turkey and the Iberian Peninsula, in particular, the last being an exercise in “whose Portuguese is the true language?” I checked into Hokele Suites, two blocks north of the beach and an equal distance south of Ala Wai Channel.  The medium high rise has all the amenities needed by a modest sojourner like myself, and is near enough to the beach that I could don a swimsuit and a pair of reef runners- and get my fill of sand and surf.  Watching out for me was this composed wahine.

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Aram and I headed out to Kimukatsu, a restaurant specializing in Japanese-style cutlet, usually pork.  The Japanese tend to regard veal as a waste of  a good animal that is better used to provide mature beef.  So, the hog is a useful substitute.  Katsu  (cutlets) establishments abound in Japan, and in Korea, Guam, Hawai’i and anywhere else with large Japanese communities.    Kimu offered gourmet toppings, such as those shown in the second photo below.

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We then walked about the Ala Wai area, along the south bank of the channel, taking in Honolulu’s encroaching dusk.

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Waikiki is inundated with high rises, both condominium and hotel, but the spirit of the place still reflects the spouting waters for which it is named.  Ala Wai is not the stinking mess I was told it had been in the ’80’s and 90’s.  It reminds me more of Riverwalk in San Antonio, or the paths along the Seine.  True, those places face the challenges of  being treasured by the masses, and I probably wouldn’t swim in Ala Wai, even if it were legal to do so.  There is, however, a growing civic sense that this is an area that is as much for year-round residents as it is for those who come and go.

The next morning, I saw the channel at sunrise.

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After joining a fair number of locals in an IHOP, for a breakfast of Belgian waffles and coffee, I headed for Pauahi Garden, near the Sheraton Waikiki.  (Sushi, the alternative, somehow escapes me as a breakfast item, though it is common enough fare for the Asian communities here.)  Bernice Pauhi Bishop was of the royalty of Maui and Moloka’i.  She was highly educated and was an astute businesswoman, eventually owning 9 % of the island of O’ahu.  She died at age 52, of breast cancer, and left no heirs.  The small gardens in the hotel district of Waikiki Beach,though, were established in her honour.

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The hearts I invariably encounter on my journeys were in abundance here, in the form of leaves.

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No visit to Honolulu is complete without time in the sand, and at least a nod to Diamond Head.

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Helumoa, the midst of Waikiki (“Spouting Waters”, in Hawaiian), was the favoured relaxation site of Kamehameha I and his successors.  When  American businessmen took control of Hawai’i in 1898, they, too, saw the salubrious nature of the spot.  Being entrepreneurs, they set in motion the process which gave us the Waikiki shorefront of today.  Hawaiians revered the shark, yet somehow I don’t think they were quite prepared for the human sharks who descended on them in the lattter third of the 19th Century.  Waikiki today is in the process of balancing itself, to be more in tune with the natural beauty it once had in abundance.

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We have reached the stage in Honolulu’s legacy where the first hotel in Waikiki, the Surfrider, is a genuine historic site.

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Later in the afternoon, before I headed to Pearl Harbor, and my son’s ship, another walk along the strand was in order.  The Wizard Stones, near Waikiki Police Substation, are held to have healing powers.  At the very least, they are reminders of nature’s power, having been sent here in a volcanic outburst, ages ago.  Lava also is used in the various breakwaters that line children’s pools and the boundaries of hotel properties along the strand.

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Sand, though, is the prime real estate.  Below, King David Kalakaua, who succeeded the Kamehameha line in an election, of all things, continued the royal promotion of  education for all Hawaiian children.

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Those who promote Hawaiian culture to the world are also honoured.  Don Ho is remembered for pop  and lounge renditions of Hawaiian songs, and is revered by many here on O’ahu.,

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With limited time in Honolulu, I chose to focus much of the rest of my day on the true legacy of the Native Hawaiian people, and one of its treasure troves:  Iolani Palace.

Stuff and Nonsense

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October 7, 2014, Prescott- Yes, I have caught up with all my travel and hiking posts, for a few days at least.  I have a few days with no work, due to Fall Break in the schools, so I am mostly listening to “imperative” podcasts that are “vital” to my well-being, shoring up various aspects of my essential oils training, working in my back yard and exercising at Planet Fitness.

Sometime on Friday, I will head out to San Diego, find a safe place for my vehicle on Saturday, fly to Honolulu on Sunday and next Tuesday will be on my son’s ship, joining the crew headed back to San Diego.  This will put me more or less incommunicado for six days or so.  That will be something of a relief to some of my extended family, who have been sick of me for a good long time.  Ditto for most of the American Legion post members, but after this Thursday night, the latter may be a moot point; we’ll see.

The bloom has been off my rose, to these people, for reasons I have yet to figure, for several weeks now. My father told us kids, years ago, that when people don’t like us, it’s their problem, not ours, and as long as we come from a place of truth, we don’t need our detractors and critics, no matter how “close” they are.  So, I will continue on, with the love I get from “those who care, and matter”, as one of my better friends here reminded me on FB recently.  I have support from my Baha’i community, from a handful of friends here in town and online, and from most of my family, including my son.

Once I get back from California, on Oct. 25, there won’t be much taking me out of the Southwest, until next May- barring any more deaths in the family.  2014 has been quite a clearing out process, for both family and friends.  I hope it’ll tone down a bit.  My main concern during that time period will be replenishing my coffers, with my own effort, thank you.  Hope all my well-wishers are doing okay this Fall.