Home to Home, and Back, Day 3, Part 1: Fort Smith National Monument

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On Monday, August 26, I started the day with a couple of hours at the fort which established to stop fighting between  the indigenous Osage people and the Cherokee, who had been pushed into the area, by the policies of President Andrew Jackson.  Thus, Fort Smith is indelibly associated with the Trail of Tears.

The place is named for one Col. Thomas A. Smith, who commanded the fort at its establishment.  Another person by that name was a friend of mine, who recently passed on, so it was poignant to read of Col. Smith’s efforts at peacekeeping.

Here are some views of the grounds of this national monument, and of the River Trail, which follows the Arkansas River, along its path through western Arkansas’ commercial center.

We start with the Courthouse and Jails of the fort, now a museum.

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Here’s a view of one of the fortifications.

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Now, here’s a look at where bad actors spent their time, courtesy of Judge Isaac Parker.

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Here is a glimpse of Judge Parker’s dungeon,

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and one of his courtroom.

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The soldiers, then as now, had to parade in formation, before their superiors.

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The remnants of the original Fort Smith may be seen here and there.

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Here is the quartermaster’s store.

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Then we come to the gallows.

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The less said, the better about this place of ghoulish amusement.

My favourite section is the River Trail.  Oklahoma lies across the Arkansas River.

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At the end of River Trail lies Fort Smith Train Station.

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It does not take a train, though, to go the scant 17 miles to Van Buren, the next stop of mine on August 26.

Supplying the Spirit Quest, Part II: Pipestone, from Winniwissa Falls to the Quarries

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Several of you found Winniwissa Falls to be a delight, in your responses to my first post.  I did, as well, and in following the trail to the true treasure of Pipestone National Monument, learned of the value of this water, in softening the stone, so that it could be used for the ceremonial pipes that are so valued by Native Americans.

Here are scenes leading to the quarries, and the rock supplies themselves. Let’s start with the rim of Pipestone Canyon.

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Atop the rim, lies The Oracle.  Do not ask what it foretold!! 🙂

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We proceed from The Oracle to the quarries, some of which had catlinite.

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There are four main quarries at Pipestone, each serving a different grouping of tribes.

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Quartzite fixed quarry, the northernmost of the four quarries.

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Here is a view of the tallgrass prairie, which once covered most of the upper Midwest.

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Once one says farewell to Pipestone’s main section,

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it’s worthwhile to stop at Three Maidens, also a site sacred to the Sioux and other nations.

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This was also a point on the North American Spiritual Arc, as I have styled the points along my journey of late July.

Next: I ended July 22 with an hour or so in the town of Pipestone, a delight in itself.

Supplying the Spirit Quest, Part I: Pipestone, from the Visitor Center to Winniwissa Falls

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Coming into the grounds of Pipestone National Monument, MN, I had a sense of the importance of the stone from which ceremonial pipes were being made.  It is instructive to me that the Chippewa, Sac and Fox, Lakota Sioux and Yankton Sioux regularly quarry the stone, from three places on this site.

I toured the visitors center first, though quite frankly, I was not impressed with the staff, other than one of the young women rangers, who seemed genuinely glad I had stopped there.  The others were either perfunctory or rude, to varying degrees.  The natural area was much more satisfying, but then, that is why I came here in the first place.

Here are some scenes from the  trail network, which features a creekside walk, a clifftop view, and Winniwissa Falls.

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The place itself is fascinating, as is the concept of fashioning ceremonial pipe from cut quartz and catlinite.  More on the quarries will follow, in Part 2.

From Home to Home, and Back, Days 1 and 2: Prescott to Fort Smith

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I am going to post about my current trip, simultaneously with the remaining segments on my spiritual journey of last month.  The purpose of this long jaunt is more about specifically connecting with people- my family and my cyberfamily.  There were critical elements of that social connection in the last trip, also, but my struggle with myself took center stage.  There will be spiritual aspects on the current trip as well, especially when I stop for some hikes, on my way back west.

I had intended, on Saturday, August 24, to attend a picnic for my American Legion Post, until about 1 PM.  Rain intervened, and while I didn’t get out of town until 1, anyway, I drove as far as Santa Rosa, NM, before calling a halt to Day 1.  Here, I found a good motel, American Inn.

Santa Rosa and its sister city, Tucumcari, are good places to rest, going back and forth from Arizona to anywhere along the mid-southern corridor.

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There was someone waiting for me in Amarillo, though, so I did not avail myself of Santa Rosa’s blue lakes or Tucumcari’s dinosaur museum. I kept on, to the Blue Front Cafe, and an hour or two of banter with my old friend, Texas Tidbits, aka Wes H.

Once 2 PM rolled around, the cafe closed, Wes and I gabbed for about twenty more minutes outside, and I was on my way again.  After hearing from my Oklahoma City friends that everyone was either busy or sick, I rolled through the north Texas plains, which are rougher than you might think.  This is, after all Tejas, and nothing is all that easy, except the bantering.

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I stopped briefly at a Texas Travel Center, west of the hamlet of Alanreed, took the above two photos, and had a White Knight moment, helping a woman unlatch the hood of her Ford.  It took me about ten minutes of investigation before locating the latch release, but, one and done.  I was to cross the entire state of Oklahoma in one fell swoop, before landing for the night, at a Knight’s Inn, as luck would have it, in Fort Smith, AR.  One does, however, have to oblige the Sooner State with at least one photograph, however, so here is the Oklahoma Visitor Center, in Midwest City, where I stopped and said prayers for my sick Oklahoma friends, and for the people in Moore, who are still rebuilding.

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Next:  Fort Smith National Historic Site

Empty Spaces, Full Hearts

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Going across the length of South Dakota, one could easily get the impression there is a void, aching to be filled, either by hydraulic fracturing, as in its northern neighbour, or by patented corn, as in Nebraska, to the south.  In the midst of this seeming void, near the hamlet of Belvidere, I looked heavenward, and was answered by these:

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After a satisfying meal at JR’s Cafe, just off I-90, I drove on to Mitchell, best known as the hometown of the late Senator George McGovern.  I got a good night’s sleep and spent the first part of the morning looking around Mitchell’s downtown.  Here, one finds the Corn Palace, a favourite of families with school-age children.

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You can see, it’s impressive and kitschy at the same time.  Also impressive, at least to me, is the left-over steam pipe from an old school building, on the south edge of downtown.

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While I enjoyed a nice lunch at Grandma Max’s, in Sioux Falls, and enjoyed the banter of the truck drivers as they flirted with a pretty waitress, I did not have time to explore South Dakota’s largest city.  My destination on Monday, July 22 was Pipestone National Monument.  So, I drove over that way, via a back road that took me through Garretson, SD, and scenes like this;

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Something tells me that the farms, and their steadfast, hardworking adherents, will be back.  The good people of the soil have always ebbed and flowed like prairie grass.

Next:  Pipestone National Monument, MN

Black Elk Peak, Segment III: Playtime on the Summit, then Back Down

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There were quite a few people on different parts of Black Elk Peak’s summit, on July 21:  The usual college-age guys posing for photos, on the most seemingly inaccessible rocks; the young ladies, sun-bathing, on their own “private” section of boulder, and folks like me, checking out pools of water in the area once used as a water-collection spot for the fire watch crew.

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Throughout nature, living creatures seek companionship.  Look closely, and you will see two butterflies.

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On the way down, along Trail # 9, I came across an injured man, whose party had already requested medical assistance.  The dangers of heat prostration cannot be minimized.  I was fortunate to have an abundance of water, on hand.  The Search and Rescue crew passed me, about a mile further down the trail.  They have some amazing equipment in this area.

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Passing the westernmost boulders, at the base of Black Elk Peak, I bid the fair mountain thanks and farewell.

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Thus ended this phase of my spiritual quest.  It brought me in touch with myself, forced me to confront my darker places, and helped cleanse those areas.  My focus now was on crossing the prairie, to Pipestone National Monument, in southwest Minnesota.

Black Elk Peak, Segment II: Cathedral Spires to the Summit

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Cathedral Spires is an area where I could camp for days on end, if it were permissible.

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Yet, there was something of grandeur lying ahead for me, on Sunday afternoon, July 21:  The summit of Black Elk Peak.

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The columbine were there to send me forward.

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As I ascended, the views of the surrounding Black Hills region underscored the uplifting air.

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While the haze was a small bit of a damper, one can look beyond it and be glad for such as this.

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The summit was now just a stone’s throw away, once past this little “tunnel”.

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Upon reaching the summit, I found several rather hazy views, but there was also this:

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and this,

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this,

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courtesy of this:

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It was a beautiful day, in the hawks’ neighbourhood.

Next:  Playtime at the summit and someone’s harrowing descent

A North American Spiritual Arc- Heart of the Black Hills, Part 4: Black Elk Peak, from Sylvan Lake to Cathedral Spires

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After spending about an hour at Crazy Horse Monument, I headed directly for Custer State Park, and Sylvan Lake.  From there, Trails 4 & 9 offer breathtaking choices, in heading for the summit of Black Elk Peak, another mountain that is sacred to indigenous people of the High Plains.    I will describe my hike of Sunday, July 21, in three segments.  Today,  I present the first half of the ascent:  Trail #4, from Sylvan Lake to Cathedral Spires.

The photos will tell the rest.  The approach to Custer State Park offers a hint of what lies ahead on Black Elk Peak.

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Next,we arrive at Sylvan Lake, a very popular fishing and swimming spot.

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Now, on to Trail # 4.

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The Black Hills remain heavily forested, yet have igneous, granite and limestone formations much like those of points further west.

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A spire, looking like a cave, got some new friends and I in the mood for further adventures, up trail.

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The trail itself is quite moderate, in terms of elevation gain, up to and including the turnoff to Little Spirit Tower (which I did not visit, this time) and Cathedral Spires.  It was worth noting, however, the effects of heat on the quartz which is also ubiquitous here.

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Now, back to the various and wondrous shapes, which the rocks present.

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Wildflowers get in their two cents, every now and then.

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Through it all, the rock guardians keep watch.

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Soon, again alone, I came to Cathedral Spires.

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From these majestic volcanic uplifts, I would continue on a somewhat steeper course, to the awe-inspiring summit of the highest mountain in the Great Plains region.

Heart of the Black Hills, Part 3: Custer City

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The first time I visited the Black Hills, with Penny, in 1984, we avoided Custer, SD, because we were both so disgusted about Little Big Horn.

I went there this time, because it had plenty of motel vacancies and I needed a shower.  The next day, July 21, I enjoyed breakfast at Baker’s Bakery, the food being far more imaginative than the establishment’s name.  A bustling, and engaging young man named Seth was my server, and applied himself very well to making his guests feel at home.  The chorizo  omelet was a sheer delight.

After breakfast, I walked around Custer.  Here are some things I noticed.  Below, is Custer County Courthouse.

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Next, one of the first settler’s homes in town.

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Local rocks are well-displayed at this shop, which was closed that Sunday morning.

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Custer’s downtown was just starting to stir.

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The town’s very own hill was clearly marked.

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Buckhorn Mountain was not marked, but rose prominently, to the northeast, nonetheless.

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Custer, the town, is a lovely, welcoming place- a far cry  from its namesake, the General.

Civility

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I am sharing this one on Facebook, as well.  I have many friends on that medium, and other sites, who are in a very tender emotional state, for reasons of their own.  When they take a risk and share their grief, which, by the way, they don’t have to do, they are sharing the most private areas of their life experiences.  I love a good many of these people, as if they are my own family.  I believe, to the core of my being,  that we each have a bounden duty to follow the Golden Rule, with regard to one another and with regard to our expectations of ourselves.  I have several snarky friends, who are mostly of good sense, in honouring people who are clearly in a dark place, emotionally.  If they can be civil, so can every one else.