Tales from the 2016 Road: Midsouth Meanderings

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July 19, 2016, Nashville-  Brother had to shove off pretty early for work, so I headed out, northward, around the same time.  North Georgia passed by fairly quickly.  Since I was headed beyond Atlanta,  the traffic winked at me, going in the other direction.

I stopped briefly, outside Chattanooga (normally a destination worthy of 2-3 days, in its own right), and called an online friend, who lives outside Knoxville.  The message back was that he had time for coffee and catch-up, and would meet me in Lenoir City, east of Knoxville, in mid-afternoon.

I stopped in Ooltewah/ Collegedale, northeast of Chattanooga, and enjoyed a lovely lunch at  4 Corners Cafe, a gem that’s hidden in the Apison Center strip mall at the junction of TN Rtes 317 and 321.  The kids manning the place were in the last days of high school and university breaks, and were still most enthusiastic about 4 Corners’ fare.  They were especially delighted to learn that I was from Arizona, and had chosen their place as a lunch stop.  I’d go back there again.

Further along, on I-75, I took a brief drive through the small city of Cleveland, finding gracious people and a delightful ambiance.  The town would also be worth a day or so, on another journey.  I had to make the effort to get up to Lenoir, and as it happened, there was yet another accident, tying up northbound traffic.    I did make it to the Starbuck’s in Lenoir City, about 3:30.  My friend from Xanga days was there, with a few stories of his own meanderings in the general area of eastern Tennessee, northern Georgia and Alabama, and the beeline to New Orleans.  Some of you may remember that my last visit with him was in Ocean Springs, MS, in February, 2015.

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JR and I swapped yarns of the road, for about an hour.  Then, it was time for me to get eastbound, once again, with the goal of avoiding the worst of Nashville’s rush hour. With the aid of my Elantra’s GPS, I got to downtown Nashville, and to a cramped, but adequate parking garage.  I prefer garages, when in a large city, with the chance to walk about in the interesting downtown.  I’m still mastering the smart phone camera, so please excuse the photo quality.

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I chose Old Spaghetti Factory, in the Printers’ Alley district, for a satisfying meal of salad, along with spinach & cheese ravioli.  Jeremy was an enthusiastic waiter, and there were a couple of birthdays that night, so the atmosphere was most effervescent.  Nashville is always a fascinating place to stop.  I would like to spend 2-3 days there, sometime.

The schedule calls for me to be in Boulder, at 9 AM, Friday, so I drove on, past Clarksville, TN, the Land Between The Lakes, and Paducah, KY, each a worthy stopping place.  I chose Marion, IL, as my rest stop for the night, with a friendly couple greeting me at Airport Inn, on the road towards the university town of Carbondale.  I made good time today, in spite of the tie-up, and will head across southern Illinois, Missouri and at least part of Kansas, on Wednesday.

 

Tales of the 2016 Road: An Inland Beach House

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July 15-16,  2016, Hudson, FL-   I kind of flooped around, after a night’s rest at Patriot Inn, Register, GA, west of Statesboro.

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Patriot Inn, Register, GA- a gracious Mom & Pop hotel

 

I found my way to the Florida state line, pulling in front of a vehicle which was 800 yards away and which sped up, flashing his lights and whipping around me, like a refugee from the DC area, or Metro Phoenix.  A short time later, Bubba was behind me, tailing the Elantra carefully, for about a mile.  Since I was doing the speed limit, the Sheriff kept going straight, when I turned left.

I left Georgia behind, and continued onto I-10, west, to Lake City.  By then, I was fairly hungry, and found the Sonny’s BBQ, for an 11 A.M. lunch. A sweet young lady named Damara made sure I was fed and watered.  Sonny’s is a reliable chain, across Florida.

I got a couple of gift items for my in-law family, and drove down I-75, making good progress and arriving in Hudson in about 2 hours, after leaving Lake City.  There was no phone call waving me away, this time, and MIL was actually thrilled that I was there.  We spent Friday evening just going over old times, and there were no tears shed.  I know Penny and her father are on the other side of the veil, tending to peace and harmony. Her mother is definitely making an effort to enjoy her tenth decade, and keeping a sense of who matters in her life.

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Dinner time in Hudson.  She wasn’t alone for long.

The next day was largely spent at the house to which the family plans to move, in the near future.  It’s called The Beach House, but the Gulf is 15 minutes further west.  Well, it is closer to the beach than Prescott is.  The pool is a bit larger than the one at the Hudson house.

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Some of my Florida fam, at “The Beach House”

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The Beach House pool.

The above pool, and the one at the Hudson house, are good for Penny’s mom to do the aquatherapy she so enjoys.

The home, once it is finalized, will give the family more room- and is, yes, closer to the Gulf.  Travel around west Florida means crossing busy highways, without traffic lights, in many spots.  The key is patience, and I found most, in this area north of Tampa, just let those with right-of-way flow on by, even if there are 100 cars for which to wait.

I won’t get to the Panhandle this trip- north Georgia is a priority and schedules are tight.  Two years from now will likely mean another East Coast summer road trip, hopefully with no car woes.

NEXT UP:  A Grandnephew, A Pontoon Ride and Some Chauffeuring

Tales of the 2016 Road: Death of An Altima

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July 10-12, Bethel, CT-   I got up fairly early, Sunday morning, as usual.  Somehow, I was a bit like a caged cat, pacing about, doing small chores, none to the satisfaction of Mom, with her plaint of “typical man”, ever in the background. My restlessness, though, had nothing to do with that.  I had had a vision of this being my Altima’s last ride and its being replaced by a small white or gray sedan. Besides,  I am no longer put off by anyone’s criticism, preferring to keep at a task until it is done to my own satisfaction.

The plan was for me to make it to York, PA and there, try to connect with a young artist, who has made Cherokee crafts, for several years.  I bid Mother a loving farewell, after eating the brunch she prepared, and the rain had subsided to her satisfaction.

The drive out, along the Massachusetts Turnpike, to I-84, was uneventful.  I stopped, briefly, at Framingham Service Center, and had no problem continuing down the road.  After a slow, but steady, passage through Hartford and Waterbury, I decided to pull off at Newtown, and fill the Nissan up with gasoline.  I would then go over to Sandy Hook, and pray for the victims of the horrific shooting of 2012.

When I tried to start the Altima, though, smoke began to rise from under the hood.  A generous young man gave me a gallon of coolant, which he said had “been left” in his truck.  I gave him some money for that, and added a fair amount to the overflow tank.

The engine continued to smoke, and I noticed that the coolant tank, itself, was cracked and useless.  A trio of motorcyclists came over and helped me push Altima into a vacant parking space.  One of them cautioned me against trying to take the car any further.  The Altima, and I, found his advice was sound.  Car wasn’t going anywhere, without a tow.

The AAA tow took me to the Days Inn at Bethel, then took Altima to its resting place, Sugar Hill Auto Service Center, on the west side of Newtown.  By then, I had contacted my sister-in-law, in Florida and my brother in Georgia, letting them know of the situation.  Facebook also learned of my challenge.  An hour or so later, arrangements were made for my purchase of another car, by Wednesday, and I made myself at home, in the comfortable second floor room at Days Inn.  Three days of continental breakfast, a walk to/from Target, for a few odds and ends, and catching up on my reading and writing, hardly constituted suffering.

The 2005 Altima, though, had endured enough.  The litany of engine woes, first taught me by my father, when I was 13:  Head gasket leak, valves bent, rings broken, engine kaput swam out of the auto technician’s mouth, at various points along our phone conversation.  He had spent two hours in diagnosis, on Monday.  Tuesday morning, I told him not to do anything further.  I would pay him for his diagnostics and for disposal of the Nissan.

The rest was due diligence on several cars offered by Danbury Auto Group.  After looking at several vehicles, online, and discussing with my best friend, I settled on a 2013 Hyundai Elantra.  It would be ready on Wednesday, so my relaxation continued.

Nissan Altima required quite a bit of me, financially, but it also took me to Vancouver, BC, once, to Reno and Denver, both twice. and to Southern California, about five times.  For an old car, going to the East Coast proved to be the last straw, despite my having had it serviced, just before we left Prescott. Mechanics tended to blame the catalytic converter and a “bad sensor” for the occasional check engine light.  I know, now, that it has to be more than that.  I am glad for one thing:  Its last journey took me to the place of my birth, and at least got me far enough away, that I had to stand on my own two feet, and not place an undue burden on anyone.  BF helped, immeasurably, and I will repay him.  RIP, my gray vehicle.

NEXT:  No York, but Plenty of Martinsburg

Tales of the 2016 Road: My Eastern Anchor

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July 8-9, 2016, Saugus-  I’ve mentioned before about this town of 40,000 people having been the springboard for the American steel industry, as it was the site of the first fully-operating Ironworks in British North America.

For me, it was also a springboard.  Though I was nowhere near as polished or as strong as the iron that came out of Saugus Ironworks, I have thrived, because of what I learned here.

My mother grew up on a small farm, north, northwest of the Ironworks site.  When she was a child, there was no National Historical Park, such as exists today.  The place was unearthed in the early 1950’s, when lower Lynnhurst was being prepared for a housing scheme.  The town leaders were wise enough to see to its unearthing, and preservation- a chance to get some of the Boston-Salem-Gloucester tourism traffic.  This led to Route 1 becoming one of the roads designated “The Great White Way”, for all the neon that reminded visitors of New York’s Broadway, as restaurants sprang up from the Revere line  to Peabody, 8 miles further north.  Yet, I digress.

Mom was the main reason for my visit here.  I would still have spent time with my amazing brother, a legally-blind sailor and bon vivant.  Mom, though, is still a force of nature, in late octogenaresis.  She is actually feeling and doing better than when I saw her in December.  She has always been about independence. She let me know where I need to work on myself, and it’s true that I have slacked off a bit, exercise-wise.  Choosing to spend most of the past several days driving, and not getting out and walking much- except for Bushkill Falls, is a habit I tend to embrace when going cross-country.  Habits can be broken, though.

I, like most people, want to feel my mother’s approval.  She has held the bar relatively high, all these years, but not out of spitefulness or malice.  Had I not been encouraged, at times cajoled, I would not be standing here today as a man of 34 years’ sobriety, or as one who puts the good of the whole above my own comfort.  She is my anchor, on the East.

So, I spent a fair amount of time just being present, watching the same reassuring TV films we saw last December- a fact she found amusing- “Why can’t Lifetime be more ambitious than to recycle the same canned stories, over and over?”  When it came time for me to go back on the road, she was a bit somber-but life for Lila Mae Boivin will go on- and she’s determined it will have quality.  There is no finer example, even for a man in late middle age, than someone who embraces the place in life, at which she finds herself.

Her last words to me were “Drive safely”.  These words proved prescient.

NEXT:  The demise of Nissan Altima.

 

 

Tales of the 2016 Road: Bushkill Falls and Busted Pipes

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July 7, 2016, Middletown, NY-  This is another of those years when I could not be present for my son’s birthday.  He was at sea, anyway.  I rose early, at Glick’s Greenhouse compound, and bid Beth and Dave a fond adieu.  My goal was to reach Saugus in time to visit a bit with a nephew and his family, who were visiting from Indiana.   Some goals don’t get reached.

The day began nicely enough.  I made good time past the Lehigh Valley, and its tough, surviving cities of Allentown, Bethlehem and Easton, jumping on Rte. 209, past the Stroudsburgs, to Bushkill Falls, where my in-laws spent their honeymoon, and several subsequent wedding anniversaries.

The privately-owned park retains its magic, and offers a fairly extensive network of hiking trails, some of which are paved.  Families and single wanderers alike were having a fine time, this morning.  Here a few of the scenes I encountered, in this Pride of the Poconos.

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Entrance and concessions complex, Bushkill Falls, PA

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Approach to Main Falls, Bushkill Falls

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Main Falls, Bushkill

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Signs of a rain forest, Bushkill Falls

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Frontal view of Main Falls, Bushkill

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Nice picnic spot, near Bridal Veil Falls, Bushkill

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Bridal Veil Falls, Bushkill

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Cave, at foot of Bridesmaid Falls, Bushkill

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Bridesmaid Falls, Bushkill

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Pennell Falls, Bushkill

Pennsylvania has had copious rain, so far this summer.  Thus, the rain forest ambiance of Bushkill Falls, and other places in the Poconos, make for a lovely vacation stopover.  The sense of peace and tranquility I found there, sustained me through what followed, in the afternoon.

After stopping in Port Jervis, NY, in the Three Corners region of New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania, and enjoying a hearty lunch at Muller’s Diner, I sensed something was awry with Nissan.  Once on I-84, it was worse:  Lack of acceleration reduced my speed to 50.  It was fortunate that I made it up the road apiece, to Middletown, and found a Nissan dealership.  The men took two hours to find and fix what their diagnostics said was the problem:  A clogged front exhaust pipe.  Thanks to them, I was back on the road by 4:30.  It was too late to see nephew and his family, but I made it safely to my mother’s house by 10 PM.   Safety is always first.

Tales of the 2016 Road: Blessed the Family That Stays Together

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July 6, 2016, Oley, PA-  I can’t drive through these parts, without a stop at Glick’s Greenhouse.  It was getting near Dave’s birthday, and Beth was having the family over for dinner, so I got to be a part of the festivities.  Besides, the accommodations are the best in the area.

The day started with a lovely breakfast at Bedford Diner, which has become an instant favourite of mine- first and foremost because of the exquisite breakfast sausage.  The regulars and the waitresses bantering is always a delightful aspect of sitting at the counter, anywhere, and it certainly was there.

My only sightseeing of the day was at Leesport Farmers Market- one of the biggest in the Reading area. I picked up a few things for Beth, and enjoyed the bustling atmosphere.  This event only happens on Wednesdays, but I am sure the pavilions see plenty of use for other purposes.

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Leesport Farmers Market

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Leesport Farmers Market

I found my way to Oley, by the backroad, past the regional middle school, patting myself on the back for having done so.  I did have to get reassurance from Beth, though, that I was on the right track, heading past the one-lane covered bridge, which I’ve shown in previous posts on the Greenhouse.  We had a fine dinner, with a new addition, the Glicks’ youngest nephew has joined the brood, since I was last here, in 2013.  After dinner conversation centered around the stuff of country life- yes, that includes guns, which I regard as tools for hunting and target shooting, as well as for personal safety in an unsafe environment.  We all agreed that guns are not a means of showing off one’s power.  Baling hay also held center stage.

No family photos, this time.  It was a bit on the hot and sticky side.  Some enjoyed the rubber swimming pool, as a result.  The sunset, though, was vintage PA.

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An Oley Valley sunset

 

As I said earlier, the room is fabulous, and I got a fine sleep.  This proved to be fortuitously necessary, for what followed, the next day.

Tales of the 2016 Road: Hoosiers Are Creative

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July 5, 2016, Bedford, PA- I started the day, determined to give the Altima a bit more TLC-so I headed to Kokomo, one of the first automotive industry centers in the U.S., for a stop at the Advance Auto Center.  Just beforehand, I spotted the Seiberling Mansion, off to the west side of this still innovative city.

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Seiberling Mansion, Kokomo, IN

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Seiberling Mansion, Kokomo, IN

It was closed, of course, being very early in the morning.  I had much to do, though, so exterior views sufficed.   In the front, there was a bit of information about Mr.  Monroe Seiberling, one of the energy industry’s first entrepreneurs.

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Information about Seiberling Mansion

Closely associated with Mr. Seiberling was Elwood P. Haynes, who promoted the gasoline engine, and invented products from stainless steel to the first mass-produced automobile model.  Elwood was a true Renaissance man, even though much of what he ushered in has run its course, due to so many recent advances in technology.  Nonetheless, here he is, in front of Seiberling Mansion.

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One of Kokomo’s Renaissance men

I left the historic district of Kokomo, in search of Advance, got what I wanted for the car, then took care of breakfast, at a Kokomo institution:  The Waffle House (not to be confused with the pleasant chain of restaurants that is found nationwide.)  The Waffle House has a full complement of regulars, and portions large enough to suffice someone like me for an entire day.  After picking up a charging cord for my Android phone, at Target, to replace one I had left behind in Rolla, I headed towards Indianapolis.

A young friend, who had moved here from Kentucky, several months ago, contacted me and we set aside a couple of hours, for a Starbucks conversation. We talked at length of the education system, special needs populations and the level of care offered by government. She’s working hard, and I let it be known that I am proud of her efforts.  The little man to her right, below, is also a wonder.  He is intently into his Minecraft- and I admire that focus.

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Friends in Indianapolis

I look forward to visiting with them again, with husband and father present, as well, next time.

With rush hour approaching, I am headed towards I-70, through Ohio and as far into Pennsylvania as my energy level and prudence allow.  Indiana has provided me with a fair measure of re-assurance and homespun wisdom.

 

 

 

 

Interruption

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July 10, 2016, Newtown, CT-  In my subsequent posts, I will be doing a bit of time-reversal, focusing on stories of my journey, from last week.  Today, though, I found myself in the predicament of having to put my Nissan in the shop, here in this town that is associated with tragedy.  The engine was smoking, the radiator might have sprung a leak or two, and the coolant overflow tank definitely needs replacing.  I will deal with these things.  It may take two or three days, but I will handle it.

In the meantime, I will be in a hotel room, in nearby Bethel.  This will give me plenty of time to read and write.  I will reflect on the fact that, just three days ago, a mechanic at a Nissan dealership, in a town about 50 miles from here,  replaced the front exhaust pipe, which he said was clogged, with no mention of a radiator problem, or an oil leak. I will converse with one of my closest friends, about whatever cash flow system can be set up, to streamline the payment part of this whole process.  I will write about the things I’ve seen and people whose company I have enjoyed, up to this point.  I will catch up on my reading.

All the while, I will reflect on the lives of the 26 people who paid the ultimate sacrifice, four years ago, this December.  I might lose a car, and have to get another one, but it is a machine.  Most of those who died at Sandy Hook Elementary were just starting out in life.  Being actually killed was the furthest thing from their minds.  That is no longer the case, for many children and their loving adults- both familial and pedagogical.  They look over their shoulders, literally and figuratively, every day.

Ironically, I was going to stop at Sandy Hook, and pay my respects, after gassing up at the  Mobil station, in Newtown.  The consensus, while I was waiting for the tow truck, was that Nissan wasn’t going anywhere.  I, on the other hand, will go where this turn of events takes us;  Me, the car or its replacement, and any who appear in the meantime.

Tales from the 2016 Road: The Long Walk of 1864

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Entrance to Fort Sumner National Monument,NM

July 1, 2016, Fort Sumner, NM-  There are several places in the United States, that every citizen should see, if for no other reason than to know that unity is a delicate thing.  Fort Sumner, a place of captivity for thousands of people, in the 1860’s, is such a place.

I have known, and  worked with, Navajo (Dineh) and Hopi people, for several years.  The Dineh, along with the Mescalero Apache (Indeh) people, were forcibly removed from their ancestral lands, in 1864, by one of the most unfortunate edicts of President Lincoln, who had a blind spot, where Native Americans were concerned.  He never stopped being an Indian fighter.

The people endured the harsh life of captives, very similar to what the Japanese internees endured in the camps of World War II.  The difference was that the Dineh and Indeh people built the camps, including the quarters of their overseers.  Many died of disease and starvation, in this squalid place.

The people were released in 1868, on orders from President Andrew Johnson, who had no real axe to grind with the Navajos or Apaches.  They walked homeward, and the Navajo wept, when they spotted one of their sacred mountains, Mount Taylor, east of Albuquerque.

Here are some of the sights that presented themselves to me, during my visit here, this morning.  The first shows the pyramid-like structure that houses the museum displays and theater, that tells the story of the Long Walk.  The ranger initially interpreted my foregoing the film, as a sign of disinterest in the actual events.  A conversation, afterward, corrected that misconstruance.

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Monument Headquarters, Fort Sumner, NM

The second photo shows the area, as it might have appeared when the captives first arrived in Bosque Redondo, as the woods were called back then. The Commemoration Stone, first brought here by Navajo Nation President Peterson Zah, in 1994.

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Nature Trail, Fort Sumner, NM

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Commemoration Stone, Fort Sumner, AZ

The descendants of both Navajo and Mescalero Apache internees, and many others from various tribes, bring items of dedication to this memorial site.

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Memorial Site, Fort Sumner, NM

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Barracks for US Army troops, Fort Sumner National  Monument, NM

The above is an example of the structures which captives were forced to build, for the housing of their overseers.

Below is a flock of Churro Sheep, raised by Navajos and now viewed as an heirloom breed, for the quality of their wool and meat.

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Churro Sheep, Fort Sumner National Monument, NM

This visit, which I had planned for quite some time, was a sobering reminder of just how far we have come, and a caution of how far we can fall backwards, in our inter-human connections. Like Manzanar, and Berga, Germany, it is a place that the smug and self-assured would do well to see, as a wake-up call.

NEXT UP:  Return to Amarillo’s Happy Southwest 6th Street.

People of Value

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June 30, 2016, Prescott- I will leave here, in a few short minutes, to visit with several friends and family members, scattered as we all are, across the Great Plains, Midwest, Northeast and South.

Earlier today, though, I stopped by the town of Yarnell, so horribly hit, three years ago, by the fire which took the lives of 19 brave souls and upended countless others.  I was not there for the formal ceremony, which will be addressed by an old friend and co-worker, himself grandfather to one of the men who died that day.  My extended spiritual energy will need to suffice, but at 4:42 PM, wherever I am on the road, I will stop and observe silence, at the very time the lives of the Granite Mountain Hot Shots were snuffed out.

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Future site of Yarnell Hill Memorial Park

This brings me to the wider concept of value.  Recent discussions, in various forums, have raised the matter of how much do the lives and livelihoods of men matter, anymore.  I have been in the situation of feeling devalued, and know several men who feel likewise.  It is not hard to find such people.  All one need do is go to a busy street corner, and notice the person holding a plea-ridden sign.

Of course, homelessness is a far more complex issue than I will address in this particular post.  My wife, son and I were homeless, for a few months in 1992.  We worked our way out of it, and managed to keep a roof over our heads- which I still do.  No, I am concerned right at this moment, with placing value on the persons and souls of the human male- every bit as much as I do with our precious, much-loved female companions on this earthly plane.

I will address this topic in more depth, but for now:  Let each human being realize that his/her dreams, and what they have to offer, matter just as much as anyone else’s.  We do nothing to make the Earth a better place, by excluding anyone, of either gender, or of any given category of humanity, from their rightful place in the mix.  Advancing one group, at the expense of another, is short-sighted, and has always contributed to strife, in the long-run.  There is room, to spare, for both men and women to work, contrary to the ongoing myth of scarcity.