Northwest by North, Day 8: Slowing Down In Oregon

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The Oregon Coast is not to be taken lightly, or quickly.  Maybe that’s one reason for fog.  The meeting of cold and warm air forces one to pay attention, like no other force of nature. This is because fog doesn’t  slam into our lives, wreak havoc, and leave.  It rolls in, lingers and only leaves when the heat of the sun burns it off.

I began the day with a full breakfast at Mattie’s Pancake House, my first pancakes in six months being blueberry cakes- with large, freshly-picked Oregon berries.  These, and a large sausage patty, gave me yet another day of sustenance.

First up, once I got on the road, was Brookings’ own Azalea Park.

Here, the renowned director and producer Elmo Williams, who has given us “High Noon” and “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea”, built a capella for his beloved wife, Lorraine, with whom he raised three children, and who died in 2004.  This incomparable memorial is now shared with Elmo’s neighbours in the city of Brookings.  Here, the visitor may sit and reflect on the important themes of life, and on a clear day, look out at the Chetco River flowing into the blue Pacific.

The redwood tree does not stop at the California/Oregon line.  Southwest Oregon is graced by its share of the arboreal giants.  Here are some redwoods of Azalea Park, which also has a population of deer.

From there, it was three or four miles at a time up to Bandon.  Chetco Point, Harris Beach, the seven turn-offs of Boardman State Park, and beyond, serve up the legendary sights of this unique coast- the other O.C.

Sometime ago, I lost a walking stick, which had helped me on several trails.  This morning, while entering Chetco Point Park, I spotted a redwood walking stick leaning against a trash can.  The stick was left there for disposal, so I gratefully rescued it and now can take its place on my meanderings.

Another thing about Chetco Point: It reminds me of Cheju, the Korean island where Penny and I taught university-level  English for a few years, and where Aram was born.

Harris Beach, about a mile north of Brookings, was my third stop.  A common feature of this, and subsequent stops in Boardman State Park, is the presence of jagged rocks and islets, which are in turn a part of Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, and are off-limits to the lay visitor.

These scenes repeat themselves continuously along this fascinating coast.  One may either admire the scenery from the frequent overlooks, or take a trail down to the beach.  I did some of each, and one particularly scintillating and challenging place was the view of two natural bridges, on the northern end of Boardman State Park, just south of Gold Beach.

Many other great scenes presented themselves today, and will be organized in my Flickr account, when I get back to Prescott.  I was unable to visit the lighthouse at Cape Blanco, just north of Port Orford.  I was able to check out the headlands of that fine little town, themselves and had a delectable scallop dinner at Bonnie’s Grill, a fairly new establishment in Port Orford.  I know of a cousin-in-law of mine, named Bonnie, who lived in Orford, NH, the last time I heard, so it obliquely rang a bell to see the sign for this place; hence, the dinner stop.

Above is a view from the top of Port Orford Head.  Below, is Bonnie’s Grill, Port Orford.

Next up, more O.C.- Bandon to Tillamook, then on to Portland.

Northwest by North, Day 7: The Call of the Redwoods, Part 2

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My Wednesday was not quite over when I left the Lost Coast behind.  There is nothing “lost” about Eureka, the northernmost commercial hub on the California coast.  It is a rather bustling port, with a solid maritime past.

Above is a logging display, on the grounds of Fort Humboldt, which the U.S. Government established to keep peace between Gold Rush-era settlers and the Yurok people.  It is now a sparsely furnished state park.

Downtown Eureka is full of solid, late-19th Century buildings, and several which are not up to modern earthquake-proof standards, and are identified as such on their frontage.

Eureka has a promenade and marina, where the community may gather. Life seems pretty good here now, after a long economic downturn.  Crescent City, some fifty miles to the north, also is bouncing back, but from a tsunami  a year or two ago.  Fog kept me from seeing very much of Crescent.

In between the  two, lies Redwood National Park, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The redwoods here are younger than those in Humboldt State Park, which I featured in Part 1 of this post.  They have a different species of elk, called Roosevelt Elk. Two Roosevelt Elk were happily feeding, as I stopped for a traffic light just shy of Crescent City.

The fog and I continued on my way to Brookings, OR, where I spent a restful night.  Day 8 was to be equally as fulfilling.

Northwest by North, Day 7: The Call of the Redwoods, Part 1

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Jack London heard the call of the wild.  I heard the whisper of nature’s giants, the coastal redwoods, throughout the day on Wednesday.  I have been to all parts of California, and have several favourite spots in each area- San Diego, Palm Springs, South Lake Tahoe, Telegraph Hill, Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz.  The Redwood Country, though, speaks to me as a unit.  For my Tuesday night sleep-under-the tree canopy and stars experience, I chose Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area.  It is quiet and perhaps one of the area’s best kept secrets, being somewhat in the shadow of Humboldt Redwoods State Park and Richardson Grove, but certainly no less lovely than its bigger siblings.

The area even has its own gathering spot, run by some rather insular, but interesting characters.  It’s the Peg House, just across the road from the park.  The family does turn out some great sandwiches, including the Breakfast Burrito, which could probably have sustained me for the next week. Coffee is great as well, and they have Yerba Mate, for those who prefer.  There is a surprisingly good collection of books, on various subjects, for sale.  There is also “the sheriff”.

Heading north, I encountered the South Fork of the Eel River.

Then, the Redwood Show was on, throughout the Richardson Grove and Humboldt Redwoods, including the Avenue of the Giants, which I followed as far as the Honeydew turn-off.  Here are four shots; with the rest being saved in my Flickr account when I get back to Prescott:

This grove is just north of the little town of Miranda, at “Auto Stop # 2”.

Next is a loner, about four miles further north.

In Humboldt Redwoods State Park, on the Gould Grove Trail, lies this reminder that redwoods have shallow roots, but are durable, even in death.

Towards the west end of Humboldt, there rises the Rockefeller Forest.

Once out of the redwoods, one enters the King Range of the Coast Mountains.  This is the area often called The Lost Coast.  Much of it is accessible only on foot.  The towns are small, and don’t seem to get many visitors.  That’s a pity; this area has great beauty all its own.

This scene is east of the village of Honeydew.

Next is Mattole Beach, the north trailhead for a Lost Coast trek, which would last 3-6 days.

I enjoyed a cheeseburger made with local grass-fed beef, at the Yellow Rose, a bit up the road from Mattole Beach, in Petrolia.  Ironically, as I was driving out of Mattole Beach, I stopped as a large shape emerged from the roadside brush.  “It’s a boar!  It’s a bear! No, it’s an Angus!”  CaliMan behind me in a pickup, pulled out from the line and drove around me, yelling at the cow as he went on his way.  The RV driver approaching us gingerly made his way past the sizable beast.  Me?  I spoke words of farewell to Elsie, and went on to lunch.

After Petrolia, there is starkly exquisite Cape Mendocino.

The black rock beach speaks of ancient volcanic activity in the region.

The road from here leads back inland a bit, to Ferndale.  It is a steep route, with sheer drop-offs in a few places- so if you go, be alert for the cows, the CaliMen (they are still in a hurry, even on the curves) and the occasional slippery stretch of gravel.  I will write part 2 of this post tonight- concerning Eureka and Redwoods National Park.

Northwest by North, Day 6: Lively Elk and A Dead Camera

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Tuesday was one of those days when I had to make choices of elimination.  I could not get an Internet connection at the Abalone Inn on Tuesday morning, so I got packed up and went on with my day.

The itinerary called for spending the greater part of the day at Point Reyes, then going to the Heirloom Exposition at Sonoma County Fairgrounds, in Santa Rosa.  I found I was able to visit Tomales Bay State Park, Abbott’s Lagoon, Mc Clure Beach and Pierce Ranch, all on the northern side of Point Reyes National Seashore.  At Pierce Ranch, the battery went dead on my camera.  That killed going to Point Reyes itself; besides, it was getting past 1 PM and I had to consider traffic coming back to Santa Rosa from the Bay Area.

What I got from the day, though, was a greeting from a bull elk, high on a ridge, as I was in the canyon below, heading down to McClure Beach.  He bugled and whistled, several times, and stood watching, intently, as I kept on my way along the trail.

My buddy, the Bull Elk of McClure Ridge
McClure Beach
Heart’s Desire Beach, Tomales Bay

I also got a good introduction to some of the plants of Point Reyes, and how they were used by the Miwok people.  Here are three views along the trail from Heart’s Desire Beach to Indian Beach, in Tomales Bay State Park.

The trail shows how the Miwok used various plants found near the beach, for food, medicine and fabric.  An example would be the mountain blackberry, which has leaves similar to poison oak, but a rough-surfaced stem, as opposed to the toxic plant’s smooth stem.

Here are a scene of Indian Beach, and one of Miwok traditional housing.

Lunch was a new twist on clam chowder, Tomales Bay clam chowder, which has crisp bacon and a lemon-tinged broth, followed by dungeness crab cakes and a slice of Wild Huckleberry Upside-down Cake.   This got me through the rest of the day, and was served up at Nick’s Cove Restaurant, in the shoreline village of Marshall, northeast of Point Reyes.  I’m glad I opted to stay inside. A few others who went on the patio were being pestered by bees.  This seems to be a rather widespread issue along the northern California coast right now.  At any rate, my waitress brightened up, once she didn’t have to deal with the bees herself, as the outside guests came back in on their own.

I spent about forty minutes yesterday afternoon, at the Heirloom Festival, in Santa Rosa.  I got a couple of videos regarding soil and food production, from a natural foods perspective.  I also enjoyed speaking with various heirloom seed producers from northern California.  We have an heirloom seed distributor near my home.  He lives in Chino Valley, AZ.

I found few other campers, upon settling in for the night, at Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area, the southernmost park along the Redwoods Highway, between Santa Rosa and Crescent City.  A bonus was that I got to charge my camera battery, in the men’s restroom.

It was a fine end to a topsy-turvy day.

Northwest by North, Day 5: Three Sides of the Bay

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Today could be very neatly divided into three parts, so this post will be an overview of the day’s venues, and I will post more cogently on them, when I get to a slow point in my journey.

For now,  these are places I covered, with a photo or two of each.

Jack London Square, Old Oakland, Oakland Chinatown and Downtown.  There are lots of “theres”, there, unlike in the days of Gertrude Stein.

Above is Hotel Oakland, in the city’s downtown.

Next up, San Francisco’s Embarcadero, and Telegraph Hill, with its famous Coit Tower.

I felt I was getting sensory overload in the bay cities, so around 2 PM, it was farewell to this beautiful city and its underrated sister, Oakland.  I headed across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito and to the Golden Gate natural preserves.  Here are photos from Vista Point, Sausalito and Muir Woods National Monument.

Well, that’s it for tonight.  I will write more specific stuff about this fine day, tomorrow- if the Internet kicks in here at Abalone Inn Bed & Breakfast, near Point Reyes.

Northwest by North, Day 4: A Hundred Years of Spirit

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I drove into San Francisco this morning, so as to prepare for the first of this trip’s centerpiece activities.  A hundred years ago, this October 3, Abdu’l-Baha began a visit to the Bay Area.  Yesterday, many of us walked around Oakland’s Lake Merritt, to commemorate His visit there.  Today, two thousand people gathered at the San Francisco Opera House, now properly called War Memorial Performing Arts Center, in honour of the fallen in World War I.  My friends and I went in early, to ensure ourselves parking slots in the garage on Grove Street.  Below, is the Opera House:

After ascertaining the correct spot for our 1 PM entrance, we went photo- seeking around City Hall and the surrounding area, where we also were to find great San Francisco coffee and superb street food, in the Heart of the City Farmers’ Market.

This is a statue of Simon Bolivar, facing San Francisco City Hall.

We happened upon Celtic Coffee Company, about three blocks east of City Hall.  Great   coffee is one of three musts for me, in the Bay Area.  The others are good Asian cuisine, which I had last night and a fine Italian meal, still to come.  Celtic puts out some fine coffee.

Great cities always have open air markets, and SF is no exception.  Heart of the City is a place where I could happily hang out for days- Fresh fruits, vegetables, organic meat and fish are all there for people with coolers or insulated storage bags.  Trail mix and nuts are plentiful.

It’s the street food, though, that makes it happen.  I enjoyed a curried lentil wrap, with mango sauce and cilantro chutney, at this vendor’s booth:

Other possibilities were pupusas, which my friends enjoyed and sushi.  I also picked up some fresh trail mix and pizza bread, to replenish my road trip stock.

This foodie trek having worked out well, we headed over to our event venue, and were seated fairly quickly.  It’s a good thing, because the crowds of our fellows in Faith were quite awesome.

All aspects of Abdu’l-Baha’s time in the Bay Area were covered this afternoon, from His visits with Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, a Baha’i who was the mother of William Randolph Hearst, to his comforting of the poor in San Francisco and Oakland.  He was a strong advocate of establishing storehouses in each community, to fend off hunger and illness, in times of dire public need.  Three main speakers addressed aspects of Abdu’l-Baha’s work for world peace.  Actors portrayed Mrs. Hearst, her butler Robert Turner, who was the first African-American to become a Baha’i, Mrs. Helen Goodall (a friend of Mrs. Hearst and Abdu’l -Baha’s hostess in Oakland, Mrs. Ella Cooper ( Mrs. Goodall’s daughter), Thornton Chase ( the first American to become a Baha’i) and John Bosch, a vintner who was a business associate of Mr. Chase.  Lively music punctuated the presentation and we were all on our feet for the gospel-tinged final song.

The theme going out of this afternoon’s event was “Increase the Peace”- brought to us by young Baha’is between the ages of 9-14.

Later, at the elegant San Francisco Baha’i Center, about 300 people viewed segments of a documentary, entitled  “Luminous Journey:  Abdu’l-Baha in America, 1912”, which is being completed by Tim and Anne Perry, of the Dallas area.  This film will be ready sometime later this Fall,  and looks like a polished and fast-paced account of those momentous months.

Here is Anne Perry, moderating the presentation of segments from “Luminous Journey”.

This day will long live in my heart, as one of the more stellar events carried out by my fellow Baha’is.  The company of my friends brought back all the warmth I felt when Penny was with me at such gatherings.  Then again, I felt her there today, too.

“Increase the Peace!”

Northwest by North, Day 3: September 8, 2012

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I rose early, as usual, this morning in Reno, and just savoured the fresh air and calmness that accent a weekend morning on the still emerging East Side of the Biggest Little City in the World.  I made the mental adjustments needed for our trip to Oakland:  No Carson City, Virginia City or Lake Tahoe, this time around.  We would not stop at Donner Pass or in Sacramento, either.   The time we had available, four hours from Noon to 4 PM, would be needed to get straight to Oakland, give or take a few minutes for a potty break.

The occasion this afternoon was special.  Along Oakland’s Lake Merritt, between 100-200 Baha’is gathered to walk the shoreline, commemorating the visit and walk here by Abdu’l-Baha, the eldest son of Baha’ullah, the Founder of our Faith, and His immediate successor, 100 years ago this month.  Tomorrow, even more Baha’is will gather in San Francisco, to honour Abdu’l-Baha’s visit to that stately gem of a city, a day or so after His stay in Oakland.

We got to Oakland in plenty of time to join in the opening prayer, then walked a 3.2 mile course, around the beautiful lake.  I was quickly joined by a friend from several years ago, who is a Baha’i in Phoenix.  “C” shared his grief from a personal loss, and I am honoured to have been able to help him through it, just a small amount.  I think, more and more, that we are put in situations where we can be of assistance to those in need.  How we handle such situations determines our own self-worth.

My friends from Reno, Tom and Michele, took to the route like hiking masters, though they hadn’t been on the trail in quite some time.  We covered about 2.75 miles of the route, before prudence took charge, and “Mima” Michele declared victory.  It was time for dinner, anyway, being nearly 7 PM.

I was delighted to also meet up with another Baha’i friend from the Bay Area, Marta R., and take a couple of photos of her family, with “C” joining in one of the shots.

Marta R. and family, Lake Merritt

Here is Lake Merritt, and here are my friends and I, honouring Abdu’l-Baha’s vision.

After bidding adieu to Marta, “C” and the rest of the Baha’is, the three of us capped a wonderful day with a Thai dinner at this fine establishment.

Gertrude Stein would be pleasantly amazed.  There is a “there” in Oakland.  “Mima’s” family can also be proud of her, for this was no ordinary effort.

Northwest by North, Day 2: September 7, 2012

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I woke at my usual time, 6 A.M., in the Barbarella Room, at Atomic Inn.

While waiting for the coffee to be ready in the motel office, I took a stroll around downtown Beatty, and found these tidbits:

Downtown Beatty, NV

I moved on northward, about 10 A.M., and stopped periodically to look at the scenes of the Great Basin, and the mountains which hem this high desert in.

The small mining town of Goldfield lies about an hour north of Beatty.  It has public buildings of native stone, and businesses typical of a Western mining community of the early 20th Century.

Goldfield also has a fine public park, a bit off the beaten path, on the north side of town.  This was a fine place to have lunch and read today’s Las Vegas Sun.

Moving right along, I took this shot, just north of Scotty’s Junction, which leads to Death Valley National Park.  Notice the striations going  horizontally, across the mountain’s face.

My last stop, before Reno, was at Walker Lake, just north of Hawthorne, NV.  Here are two scenes without reflections, and one with the images of the surrounding terrain.

That was my journey for the day.  I arrived at the Smith residence in Reno, a little after 6 P.M., and spent a happy evening catching up on a dozen years of old times, since we had seen each other last.

Northwest by North, Day 1: September 6, 2012

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I left my humble den at 11:30 AM, after carefully pulling every last weed out of the back yard, cleaning the house and making triple sure I had everything I needed for the month ahead.  Then I went and had my mail held, from tomorrow on.  Today’s mail brought a bonus- my paycheck from Chino Valley Schools!  I celebrated that by having lunch at Bonn Fire, one of the town’s good restaurants.

Pit stops for ice in Ash Fork and an iced mocha, in Kingman, kept me going until it was scenic photo time- first overlooking the Colorado River, near Dolan Springs, AZ.

I drove the relatively short distance that remained, to Hoover Dam, and walked around for about thirty minutes, taking a few shots of the engineering marvel-

Hoover Dam

and the Eagle Men:

With miles to go before I was to sleep, I stopped ever so briefly at the Boulder Basin overlook of Lake Mead.  Note the two pyramid-shaped islands.  One of them is named- Pyramid Island!


Pyramid Island, Lake Mead

Feeling the heat (96 degrees), and not wanting to deal with traffic any longer than necessary, I drove through Las Vegas, without stopping.  I will spend a few days there next  President’s Day weekend (February), anyway- at Red Rock Canyon, Valley of Fire, etc.

My supper was stuff out of the cooler at a rest area in Amargosa Valley, and cold drinks from the Alien Cafe and Store, across the road.  The store clerk was facing an issue that hits a lot of us in rural areas:  Spotty cell phone service and bad customer service- Some of you might know the drill, “Want us to help?   You need to drive into town.”  (I have this issue with T-Mobile not being in Prescott, so Phoenix is the place to go for service.)  Her carrier is only available 56 miles away in Las Vegas.  Closer, though, is Area 51.

So, where do you suppose I headed next?

WRONG! 🙂

I am spending the night at Atomic Inn, Beatty, NV.  So, I still might end up glowing in the dark.

Labor Day of Love

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No, I’m not about to imitate Suggestive Tongue.  This Labor Day weekend was  platonic, and a fair amount spiritual.    Eros is on vacation elsewhere, as yet.

No matter, though; I spent Saturday cleaning up the front yard of my Phoenix property and making sure all was well with the house itself.  I also went around the Valley in pursuit of an item needed by  a friend.  It took until Monday morning, but the search ended successfully, online.  I also had lunch at one of my favourite spots en route to/from Phoenix- Rock Springs Cafe.  Like many restaurants, they were getting jammed up big time, with holiday travelers so abundant.  I took my spot at the counter, placed my order, drank my coffee from a disposable cup-it WAS that crowded, had my first order on burnt toast delivered by the food runner.   It was promptly taken back by the waitress, and a suitable sandwich came my way moments later.

Sunday started out, well and good.  I got to Mingus Mountain picnic area ten minutes  after the appointed meeting time.  This irritated the self-appointed time keeper, but everyone else was laid back.  We drove further in, about five miles on a rutted, four-wheel drive worthy road, to the trailhead for Jeronimo’s Cabin Trail.

A half hour later, up a moderately steep incline, we arrived at the abandoned gem.

We poked around the cabin for about twenty minutes, before heading back down.

The three dogs who were along also made the most of the occasion.

After this outing, we found the cool and restful patio of Alice’s Restaurant, in Jerome, AZ.  The celebrated Ms. Brock doesn’t own this one, but the owner IS named Alice, and the food is well worth the drive.

Here are the entrance, and the patio.

After a delicate and satisfying shrimp and crab flatbread, and a slice of chocolate cake, the latter shared by nine of us, I bid farewell to my hiking and dining friends, and took a three-hour break.

Sunday evening saw a birthday barbecue and jam session, in honour of a long- time friend, Marcia.

Her husband, Carl, is the consummate grill-master and a top-notch musician.  His band kept our feet tapping, and some of us accompanying on drums, for over an hour.

Today capped the weekend with relish, as I went to a noon barbecue at my American Legion Post, in Prescott, then cast a critical eye at the documentary, “2016:  Obama’s America”.  I march to my own drummer, politically, as in much else, so I came away not exactly overwhelmed by the film’s message.

Labor Day weekend’s most important events were those where we were able to bring joy to one another’s hearts.

* NOTE:  Photos of Alice’s Restaurant are from http://www.aliceinjerome.com.