The Road to 65, Mile 198- Southeast IS Northwest, Day 7: On Sitka’s Pinnacle

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 22, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Personal goals

June 14, 2015, Sitka- The fast ferry from Juneau made it through some narrow channels, in five hours. Sitka is the premier site of preserved Russian influence in the United States. There are other such sites, most notably Fort Bragg, CA, but Sitka was Base Camp for Governor Baranof and the Czar’s forces of occupation. Only when financial matters took precedence, did Alaska pass out from under royal fiefdom.

I came here with a friend, met at the Juneau Hostel, and we determined to hike one of the island’s peaks, as the weather had returned to picture book perfection. The choice was Mt. Verstovia, two miles south southeast of town.

of course, we couldn’t start without first having a light lunch at a food truck.

A taxi took us the two miles to the trailhead.

Mt. Verstovia had significance to the early Russian colonists, who heated their simple homes with wood and used charcoal for cooking.

My young friend and her husband collect heart-shaped stones, so my penchant for coming across them piqued her interest. Of course, being in a national forest. this stayed put.

At the 1.2 mile mark, this was the view to the west.

Most of the trail involved steps and switchbacks. The moss made the descent a bit of a challenge- but what an unparalleled trail!

Mountaineers no doubt feel the call, when looking northward.

Once at the end of the maintained trail, the true peak of Mt. Verstovia called out, as well. A few young men headed over to check it out.

Most of us, though, were satisfied with Picnic Rock, and the 2480 foot ascent.

I have a long ways to go, in getting trim, but a few more like this will help greatly.

We spent about four hours on the mountain, including all the time spent gazing at the various surrounding sights.

The Road to 65, Mile 197: Southeast IS Northwest, Day 6 at Mendenhall Glacier

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 20, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 13, 2015, Juneau- I elected to spend this Saturday, as an extra day here, so as to spend several hours in the vicinity of Mendenhall, the nearest and most accessible glacier- as well as being a prime example of the changes which our Earth is undergoing.

The glacier’s stewards have carefully marked its retreat, and masses of people from all over the world come here to walk the Trail Through Time, on which a docent carefully points out the now solid ground that was covered by the Mendenhall, on given years in the not so distant past. Now, it, along with Le Conte and other glaciers in southeast Alaska, is calving icebergs constantly, each year.

Despite its retreat, Mendenhall remains a thing of wonder.

This is the closest that visitors can get to the great ice field.

The icebergs, in turn are feeding this glacial lake. Perhaps it, someday, will revert to ice.

Nugget Creek, and its great Falls, are new wonders, that have only recently been released from their prison of ice.

A random daredevil chose to test the temperature. A ranger was en route to check on his well-being, as I headed for East Glacier Loop trail.

Part of East Glacier Loop is contained within the Trail Through Time, which tracks the glacier at its peak and through its retreat, by showing where Mendenhall was, in what year.

This tree-hollow cavelet would have been far under ice, in 1950, for example.

So, too, would this rain forest floor.

As with all retreating glaciers, great boulders are left in Mendenhall’s wake.

East Glacier Trail offers a “top-down” perspective, on its creator.

AJ Falls, west of Nugget Creek, is the cascade of one of two tributaries of Nugget Creek.

Notice that ice is not the only expansive element in this area. Moss is everywhere, in the temperate rain forest.

The clarity of the Mendenhall’s ponds lends itself to some intrepid families allowing children to swim in them, provided there are no bears present.

Nugget Creek, compared to its Falls, is a modicum of serenity.

These are views from the crest of East Glacier Trail.

I spent some time at the crest, talking with a local tour guide. She has lived in Juneau for over 40 years, Steep Falls

and has, to her chagrin, watched Mendenhall shrink, inexorably. She, like many hikers, took a

counterclockwise approach to the trail. I hiked in a clockwise direction, as is my wont, and thus went down these stairs, instead of up.

Steep Falls, at the west end of the trail, is the second tributary cascade of Nugget Creek.

It remains to be seen, as to which direction the glaciers of southeast Alaska,and of the world, will go, as our planet’s history progresses. Mendenhall, Tracy Arm, LeConte Glacier and Glacier Bay, are all worth monitoring, and that’s just in the southeast. The rest of the Last Frontier more than hold sits own, in the ice field department-for now.

The Road to 65, Mile 195: Southeast IS Northwest, Day Four- Juneau

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 14, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 11, 2015, Juneau- There is no such thing as a wasted day, unless one revels in wastefulness. Rain fell, constantly, during my first full day in the Alaskan capital. One must take what is, however, and so I first headed over to the nearest coffee house: Heritage Coffee, in the heart of downtown. I had about 1 1/2 hours of wi fi, for the price of coffee and a scone, before whoever runs the wifi pulled the plug, and I moved on.

Thus, I took in the fullness of downtown Juneau, and gradually moved uphill.

St. Nicholas Orthodox Church became a refuge for the Tlingit people, in the 1880’s and ’90’s, when American Christian groups insisted they give up their language and customs. The Russian Orthodox missionaries made no such demand. Therefore, the community remains strong in Juneau.

The Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary has thrived, since the Catholics learned from the success of their Orthodox neighbours. In truth, the only way to really reach people, especially in spiritual matters, is through their hearts.

The Alaska State Capitol is under renovation now, so no one is allowed inside, as a visitor. It is one of the most utilitarian, and unadorned of the state capitols, which suits me, and most Alaskans, just fine.

All this going back and forth was leading me to check my watch, and, yes, it was lunch time. So, off to Rainbow Foods, the local natural foods market, I went. Some of my fellow hostelers were stunned, STUNNED, that I didn’t go to Fred Meyer or IGA. As capable as the chain stores may be, local has more of the ambiance I seek.

After the lunchtime interlude, I checked out Wickersham House, the early Twentieth Century home of a local judge, and his multi-talented second wife, who built strong, respectful relationships with the Tlingit and Haida people. The house is an Alaskan State Historic Site, and much of the judge’s native arts collection is preserved here. Note the basketry, figurines and scrimshawed whale bone, below.

Next up, was a ninety-minute spiritual study with some local friends, then it was off to the heights above Juneau, with the hardiest of their number.

Our goal was Ebner Falls, which can be seen from a distance, below.

Above Ebner Falls, there rises Mount Juneau, accessible by a muddy path.

The rain was our companion, all during this hike, but the falls are a greater attraction than the precipitation was a deterrent. I went with my friend, Dave P., to his boat, to prepare it for tomorrow’s expedition. After pizza and salad, with Dave and his wife, my evening was occupied with helping a young friend to heal herself, with the help of some essential oils.

The Road to 65, Mile 194: Southeast IS Northwest, Day 3, Wrangell to Juneau

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 13, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 10, 2015, Juneau- Today was a gray, overcast, thoroughly rainy day, headed north. It was alternately cold and mild, outside. The sea was alternately deep and black or shallow and emerald green. No worries here, though, as I was passing from one fabulous community to another.

The ferry this time was the Matsunaga, named for one of Alaska’s most famous valleys.

We passed by more exhilarating islands, coves and mountains, which I will let speak for themselves. It was a pensive and relaxing day.

Our only stop, en route, was the largely Norwegian-American community of Petersburg. I had scant time to leave the ship and explore, so I just stayed on board and was able to take these shots of the town, from deckside. Note that the homes closest to the harbour are on raised platforms. This feature reminded me of towns in Louisiana, or the coast of Guyana.

Patterson Glacier meets the sea, north of Petersburg. The much larger Le Conte Glacier is just south of Patterson.

This wispy cloud, in front of the mountain, cast a disconcerting countenance.

We arrived in Juneau around 6:15 P.M., and i was whisked to a local Baha’i gathering, where once again, I was welcomed as family.

After this hearty welcome, I headed to Juneau Hostel, where I will spend four nights. during three full days in Alaska’s capital.

The Road to 65, Mile 193: Southeast IS Northwest, Day Two in Wrangell

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 12, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 9, 2015, Wrangell- Baron Ferdinand’s little town has grown in my heart, already. The little family with whom I have been staying is engaging and solicitous. The community of Baha’i friends, likewise, has spared no warmth and consideration. That there is amazing scenery around every corner in southeast Alaska doesn’t hurt, either.

I spent the day alternating between hikes and community get-togethers. The morning began with a walk up to Rainbow Falls, a delectable slice of Tongass National Forest, four miles south of Wrangell.

The trail is .6 miles long, and features about 200 steps, mostly on a planked trail. Wrangell planks its trails, so as to avoid people having to hike in the mud.

The Tongass is Alaska’s primary temperate canopied rain forest.

As with any canopied forest, the importance of the forest floor is huge.

This is the first view of the creek that is fed by the Falls.

The hanging moss resembles a squirrel tail.

This moss-covered stump, on the other hand, resembles a woolly mammoth.

The first view of Rainbow Falls is the best.

Looking westward, from the trail’s end, gives one another spectacular view of Fool’s Inlet and Etolin Island, west of Wrangell.

After hiking down, I went downtown and purchased a freshly-made raspberry rhubarb pie, all the better to treat my host family, whilst helping another Baha’i family in its fundraiser for their daughter’s Homecoming Queen candidacy. Of course, the proceeds would help her with higher education expenses, after high school, as well. It looks like the pies, and their slices, were selling as fast as they were being delivered.

Following a brief after-lunch rest, I took in Wrangell’s Nolan Museum, devoted to island history, geology and artifacts.

This is a Tlingit orca mask.

I couldn’t decide whether this quartz crystal resembled a Sphinx, or Yoda.

Wrangell school children sometimes have garnet hunts, and sell the gems for fundraising.

This display shows a traditional Wrangell Island sein and fishing kayak.

Petroglyph Beach, north of Wrangell, was my last nature excursion of the day.

The basalt and shale along this rather temperate beach availed themselves to those wanting to carve messages, over the centuries.

This smooth slate has not, as yet, drawn a lot of attention.

I’m told that much of the rock art is on this area, and is only reachable at low tide.

True to form, i found a heart waiting for me, on Petroglyph Beach.

In the evening, I attended another Baha’i gathering, and met the Queen of the House.

Her entourage was also quite feisty.

So ended my two-day visit to an amazing little town. I get the sense that the next three towns on my itinerary will be equally special, in their way. Is there any such thing as a place that isn’t special?

The Road to 65, Day 192: Southeast IS Northwest, Day One In Wrangell

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 11, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 8, 2015, Wrangell- Baron Ferdinand von Wrangel has been honoured by two nations, Russia and the United States, with the town of Wrangell, which he served as both a Russian and an American governor, and Wrangel Island, in the Russian Arctic.

So, this small, but bustling town honours the entrepreneurial spirit of its namesake. Fishing is a huge enterprise, both from the bounty of the sea, and of the Stikine River, a few miles north of here- relatively speaking.

My first stop this morning was to the resting place of Chief Shakes V, a Tlingit leader who worked tirelessly for his people. The totems atop the fence are of orcas, which are honoured by the seafaring Tlingit.

Chief Shakes’ residence is preserved by the Tlingit Nation, and is available for viewing when tour ships come to town.

Wrangell, like other southeast Alaskan towns, has a Totem Pole Park.

In between visiting with some friends, at lunch and in the evening, I spent some time hiking up Mt. Dewey, a short urban parkland, atop which one may get a fine view of islands to the west of Wrangell. John Muir hiked Mt. Dewey, during his visit to Alaska.

I had a companion on my walk, for a short time.

A nearby mountain and a view of Wrangell Harbor, were prime views from atop Mt. Dewey.

Tomorrow is sure to bring yet more sights and sounds, on this marvelous island.

The Road to 65, Mile 191: Northwestward, Day 12- The Joy of Rain

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 9, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 7, 2015, Wrangell- We woke to rainwater, where my left-hand neighbour’s cot had been, with the spill headed down towards my area, and past it. None of my belongings were near the wall, so all was still well on my end. Poor neighbour, and her husband, survived the night, and vowed to be more circumspect about where they lodged, between Wrangell and Juneau.

We were in Canadian waters until 6:30 AM, or so, but being on Alaska Daylight Time already, we all had been up for at least an hour, when we crossed into the realm of the Last Frontier. Rain was still coming down, hard, as we pulled into Ketchikan, for the two hours that it would take to unload some vehicles and take on others. There were many relieved dogs and cats that had survived the two-day crossing, lodged on the car deck, and visited by their people four times a day, for fifteen minutes each.

This was our first view of Ketchikan, as the trusty vessel edged into harbor.

The low-hanging clouds did not obscure our temporary “rest-stop”.

Nor did the rain, hitting the window, keep anyone from getting off and stretching a bit.

I spent about an hour and ten minutes in the lobby of Best Western Plus, Landing Hotel, catching up on what had gone on in my wider world, during our time at sea.

Back on the ship, for the final leg of the day- to Wrangell, a kind man pointed out this misty splendour. While I was sitting in the observation deck, reading, another passenger came up, distraught, and asked whether I had seen a red i-pad. Shortly afterward, some teens who were headed back to Wrangell came around, apparently engaged in a makeshift scavenger hunt. Thirty minutes later, the kids found the i-pad, where the woman’s husband had left it- on a snack bar table. Their whole activity was oriented around finding this device.

The fog lifted a bit, heading northward, and toward mid-day.

Soon enough, there was Wrangell!

This windsock shows the captain and his navigator the direction of the wind.

I was met at the dock by my main correspondent in Wrangell, who brought me to the home in which I am staying here. My host is a high-powered Renaissance man, whose ideas and activities may well result in significant progress in areas from salmon conservation and wild stock replenishment to the fostering of intertribal unity across the State of Alaska. Here is a view of Wrangell’s harbor, from his home.

Southeast Alaska’s evergreen forests, like many elsewhere, suffer greatly, if there is scant rainfall.

This is the Wrangell City Dock. Even on a Sunday, there is much activity.

We made a visit up to Nemo Point, about five miles south of town, and spotted Alaska’s real state bird, the ptarmigan. I got this feeling that the bird was escorting us towards the fog-laden Point.

That other “state bird”, the mosquito, was nowhere to be found, on this still stormy day.

The Road to 65, Miles 188 & 189: Northwestward, Days 9 &10, Whatcom, What May

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 8, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 4-5, 2015, Bellingham- I have been here for nearly two days, and am amazed by the comprehensive effort that has gone into Whatcom Creek Trail, the Whatcom County Museum and the generality of Bellingham. There are more one-way streets in the center of this town, than any other town I’ve seen, of comparable size. This represented a pre-coffee wake-up call of short order, for me, this morning. The coffee part, though, was suitably addressed at Black Drop Coffee House. This is a congenial place-and seemingly many local residents’ ideal of a workplace.

The ceramic cups hold six ounces of “Joe”, so I got two refills, along with my cinnamon bun.

C3PO certainly approves.

The waterfront was my first order of business, yesterday, after enjoying the fruit of the bean at a fine west side coffee house, Lettered Streets, owned by two enterprising young ladies, and equally valued by the folks of that neighbourhood.

Here was my first glimpse of Bellingham Harbor.

Of course, this was at low tide.

Nonetheless, the harbor is a thriving place, and the second-busiest northern Washington port, after Everett.

My eastward path crossed by the Train Station.

The majesty of the orca is the subject of a mural, at the Parberry Building.

I enjoyed a late lunch at this cozy downtown grill. The bar tender/waitress was a cheerful, talkative lady, from New Orleans. She has grown a love for the Northwest, and its four seasons.

After lunch, it was time to enjoy the landmarks of uptown Bellingham. This is Mount Baker Theater, home of a local troupe.

The Whatcom County Museum is big on photographic exhibits, both at its main hall- the former Bellingham City Hall, and at Lightkeepers, a bright, multi-modal house, a bit further up the hill.

This is Old City Hall. I was captivated by the “Owl and Woodpecker” exhibit. “Woodies” are vital for the survival of many species, both avian and mammalian, through their excavation of domiciles, on trees both living and dead.

A Native Peoples arts and craft center next door was closed, but this mural tells of how fish are viewed, traditionally, by the Lummi and Nooksack people.

Here is a view of Bellingham’s bright Arts District.

Whatcom Creek Greenway tells many stories, both old and new.

The dead tree still reaches out to the birds and fish.

These old wharf poles used to support a fishing weir, on the lower creek.

A salmon-spawning fostering operation, is in full swing, on Whatcom Creek.

A friend in Wrangell, Alaska has designed some of the spawning boxes that help make this operation one of the largest in the American West.

The Whatcom is certainly a welcoming place for the noble fis

I could have sat for hours, contemplating the life-giving strength of the rapids, and there were many who were doing just that.

Here is the beginning of the salmon run.

These lilacs were the beginning of the comprehensive “Native Plants” promenade.

These Baldhip Roses are featured, just south of the creek.

Each of the nearly two-dozen plants shown along the trail has an accompanying sign, giving the plant’s names, in Lummi and in Nooksack, as well as the proper uses of the plant.

Beach strawberry is another valuable medicinal plant.

A ship’s bell is kept here, as a reminder of the strong tie between sea and mountain.

Read the fascinating story behind this totem pole, in the frame below.

I hope this can be enlarged on the reader’s screen.

So, Bellingham, in a limited time, reveals itself to be a far more important cornerstone of the Northwest, than a cursory ride north on I-5 would ever indicate. I’m glad to have come back down here and spent the extra hours.

The Road to 65, Mile 187: Vancouver, Part 2- Stanley Park

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 5, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 3, 2015, Vancouver- The western seaside of this fascinating city is, for many, the peak of their Vancouver experience. So it was for me, over a two-hour walkabout.

The Royal Vancouver Yacht Club borders the eastern approach to Stanley Park.

As elsewhere in Vancouver, side gardens abound here.

Even dead trees make their presence known!

Pisa has nothing on Stanley Park.

People the world over are welcomed.

Horses work hard in the park, but are treated well.

The Pavilion is a premier venue for gatherings.

One of my favourite aspects of the Northwest is the rain forest. This is the first time I’ve seen a black squirrel, though.

Ferns grow almost to Jurassic levels.

This is the Brockton Oval, home of many rugby matches.

This lady knows how to prance for the audience!

The Girl in the Wetsuit is a tribute to Vancouver’s relationship with the sea.

The dragon’s head is supposed to protect sea-going vessels.

This cormorant played hide and seek with me, for ten minutes.

Brockton Point Light House has been crucial to maritime safety for over 150 years.

The Memorial Totem Pole, seen above, honours one of the most influential First Nations elders of 20th Century Vancouver. Squamish people lived for centuries, near what is now Stanley Park. I will post a complete view of the Memorial Totems of the park, in a few days, when I get to Wrangell, AK.

“Shore to Shore” commemorates the story of a Portuguese emigre and his Salish wife.

The last corner of Stanley Park I visited was the Cricket Grounds, where two teams were hard at play.

Finally, an osprey was visible, in the reeds, as I was leaving Stanley Park.

This was easily well worth the hour’s drive from Blaine, and the refresher course in border crossing. It seems I have had quite a few refresher courses in life, over the past ten months.

My next few posts will be up, as WiFi connections allow, while on the Inland Passage.

The Road to 65, Mile 186: Northwestward, Day 7, Part 2- Everett and Blaine

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 3, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 2, 2015, Blaine, WA- As mentioned earlier, I drove the length of the Puget Sound metro area, stopping only in deference to my fellow travelers, as the rush hour, and a few accidents, dictated. I stopped in Everett, the northern anchor of the metro region, in search of at least one of the port city’s well-regarded botanical gardens.

Legion Park honours the American Legion, to which I belong. It was thus a logical place to stop and enjoy the interspersing of the great evergreens of this area, with the riot of colour that comes with every well-planned garden. Not being much of a floral authority, I nonetheless present several of the plants that stood out most prominently to me, on this drizzly but glorious afternoon, when I had the place virtually to myself.