The Road to 65, Day 192: Southeast IS Northwest, Day One In Wrangell

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 11, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 8, 2015, Wrangell- Baron Ferdinand von Wrangel has been honoured by two nations, Russia and the United States, with the town of Wrangell, which he served as both a Russian and an American governor, and Wrangel Island, in the Russian Arctic.

So, this small, but bustling town honours the entrepreneurial spirit of its namesake. Fishing is a huge enterprise, both from the bounty of the sea, and of the Stikine River, a few miles north of here- relatively speaking.

My first stop this morning was to the resting place of Chief Shakes V, a Tlingit leader who worked tirelessly for his people. The totems atop the fence are of orcas, which are honoured by the seafaring Tlingit.

Chief Shakes’ residence is preserved by the Tlingit Nation, and is available for viewing when tour ships come to town.

Wrangell, like other southeast Alaskan towns, has a Totem Pole Park.

In between visiting with some friends, at lunch and in the evening, I spent some time hiking up Mt. Dewey, a short urban parkland, atop which one may get a fine view of islands to the west of Wrangell. John Muir hiked Mt. Dewey, during his visit to Alaska.

I had a companion on my walk, for a short time.

A nearby mountain and a view of Wrangell Harbor, were prime views from atop Mt. Dewey.

Tomorrow is sure to bring yet more sights and sounds, on this marvelous island.

The Road to 65, Mile 191: Northwestward, Day 12- The Joy of Rain

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 9, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 7, 2015, Wrangell- We woke to rainwater, where my left-hand neighbour’s cot had been, with the spill headed down towards my area, and past it. None of my belongings were near the wall, so all was still well on my end. Poor neighbour, and her husband, survived the night, and vowed to be more circumspect about where they lodged, between Wrangell and Juneau.

We were in Canadian waters until 6:30 AM, or so, but being on Alaska Daylight Time already, we all had been up for at least an hour, when we crossed into the realm of the Last Frontier. Rain was still coming down, hard, as we pulled into Ketchikan, for the two hours that it would take to unload some vehicles and take on others. There were many relieved dogs and cats that had survived the two-day crossing, lodged on the car deck, and visited by their people four times a day, for fifteen minutes each.

This was our first view of Ketchikan, as the trusty vessel edged into harbor.

The low-hanging clouds did not obscure our temporary “rest-stop”.

Nor did the rain, hitting the window, keep anyone from getting off and stretching a bit.

I spent about an hour and ten minutes in the lobby of Best Western Plus, Landing Hotel, catching up on what had gone on in my wider world, during our time at sea.

Back on the ship, for the final leg of the day- to Wrangell, a kind man pointed out this misty splendour. While I was sitting in the observation deck, reading, another passenger came up, distraught, and asked whether I had seen a red i-pad. Shortly afterward, some teens who were headed back to Wrangell came around, apparently engaged in a makeshift scavenger hunt. Thirty minutes later, the kids found the i-pad, where the woman’s husband had left it- on a snack bar table. Their whole activity was oriented around finding this device.

The fog lifted a bit, heading northward, and toward mid-day.

Soon enough, there was Wrangell!

This windsock shows the captain and his navigator the direction of the wind.

I was met at the dock by my main correspondent in Wrangell, who brought me to the home in which I am staying here. My host is a high-powered Renaissance man, whose ideas and activities may well result in significant progress in areas from salmon conservation and wild stock replenishment to the fostering of intertribal unity across the State of Alaska. Here is a view of Wrangell’s harbor, from his home.

Southeast Alaska’s evergreen forests, like many elsewhere, suffer greatly, if there is scant rainfall.

This is the Wrangell City Dock. Even on a Sunday, there is much activity.

We made a visit up to Nemo Point, about five miles south of town, and spotted Alaska’s real state bird, the ptarmigan. I got this feeling that the bird was escorting us towards the fog-laden Point.

That other “state bird”, the mosquito, was nowhere to be found, on this still stormy day.

The Road to 65, Miles 188 & 189: Northwestward, Days 9 &10, Whatcom, What May

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 8, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 4-5, 2015, Bellingham- I have been here for nearly two days, and am amazed by the comprehensive effort that has gone into Whatcom Creek Trail, the Whatcom County Museum and the generality of Bellingham. There are more one-way streets in the center of this town, than any other town I’ve seen, of comparable size. This represented a pre-coffee wake-up call of short order, for me, this morning. The coffee part, though, was suitably addressed at Black Drop Coffee House. This is a congenial place-and seemingly many local residents’ ideal of a workplace.

The ceramic cups hold six ounces of “Joe”, so I got two refills, along with my cinnamon bun.

C3PO certainly approves.

The waterfront was my first order of business, yesterday, after enjoying the fruit of the bean at a fine west side coffee house, Lettered Streets, owned by two enterprising young ladies, and equally valued by the folks of that neighbourhood.

Here was my first glimpse of Bellingham Harbor.

Of course, this was at low tide.

Nonetheless, the harbor is a thriving place, and the second-busiest northern Washington port, after Everett.

My eastward path crossed by the Train Station.

The majesty of the orca is the subject of a mural, at the Parberry Building.

I enjoyed a late lunch at this cozy downtown grill. The bar tender/waitress was a cheerful, talkative lady, from New Orleans. She has grown a love for the Northwest, and its four seasons.

After lunch, it was time to enjoy the landmarks of uptown Bellingham. This is Mount Baker Theater, home of a local troupe.

The Whatcom County Museum is big on photographic exhibits, both at its main hall- the former Bellingham City Hall, and at Lightkeepers, a bright, multi-modal house, a bit further up the hill.

This is Old City Hall. I was captivated by the “Owl and Woodpecker” exhibit. “Woodies” are vital for the survival of many species, both avian and mammalian, through their excavation of domiciles, on trees both living and dead.

A Native Peoples arts and craft center next door was closed, but this mural tells of how fish are viewed, traditionally, by the Lummi and Nooksack people.

Here is a view of Bellingham’s bright Arts District.

Whatcom Creek Greenway tells many stories, both old and new.

The dead tree still reaches out to the birds and fish.

These old wharf poles used to support a fishing weir, on the lower creek.

A salmon-spawning fostering operation, is in full swing, on Whatcom Creek.

A friend in Wrangell, Alaska has designed some of the spawning boxes that help make this operation one of the largest in the American West.

The Whatcom is certainly a welcoming place for the noble fis

I could have sat for hours, contemplating the life-giving strength of the rapids, and there were many who were doing just that.

Here is the beginning of the salmon run.

These lilacs were the beginning of the comprehensive “Native Plants” promenade.

These Baldhip Roses are featured, just south of the creek.

Each of the nearly two-dozen plants shown along the trail has an accompanying sign, giving the plant’s names, in Lummi and in Nooksack, as well as the proper uses of the plant.

Beach strawberry is another valuable medicinal plant.

A ship’s bell is kept here, as a reminder of the strong tie between sea and mountain.

Read the fascinating story behind this totem pole, in the frame below.

I hope this can be enlarged on the reader’s screen.

So, Bellingham, in a limited time, reveals itself to be a far more important cornerstone of the Northwest, than a cursory ride north on I-5 would ever indicate. I’m glad to have come back down here and spent the extra hours.

The Road to 65, Mile 187: Vancouver, Part 2- Stanley Park

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 5, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 3, 2015, Vancouver- The western seaside of this fascinating city is, for many, the peak of their Vancouver experience. So it was for me, over a two-hour walkabout.

The Royal Vancouver Yacht Club borders the eastern approach to Stanley Park.

As elsewhere in Vancouver, side gardens abound here.

Even dead trees make their presence known!

Pisa has nothing on Stanley Park.

People the world over are welcomed.

Horses work hard in the park, but are treated well.

The Pavilion is a premier venue for gatherings.

One of my favourite aspects of the Northwest is the rain forest. This is the first time I’ve seen a black squirrel, though.

Ferns grow almost to Jurassic levels.

This is the Brockton Oval, home of many rugby matches.

This lady knows how to prance for the audience!

The Girl in the Wetsuit is a tribute to Vancouver’s relationship with the sea.

The dragon’s head is supposed to protect sea-going vessels.

This cormorant played hide and seek with me, for ten minutes.

Brockton Point Light House has been crucial to maritime safety for over 150 years.

The Memorial Totem Pole, seen above, honours one of the most influential First Nations elders of 20th Century Vancouver. Squamish people lived for centuries, near what is now Stanley Park. I will post a complete view of the Memorial Totems of the park, in a few days, when I get to Wrangell, AK.

“Shore to Shore” commemorates the story of a Portuguese emigre and his Salish wife.

The last corner of Stanley Park I visited was the Cricket Grounds, where two teams were hard at play.

Finally, an osprey was visible, in the reeds, as I was leaving Stanley Park.

This was easily well worth the hour’s drive from Blaine, and the refresher course in border crossing. It seems I have had quite a few refresher courses in life, over the past ten months.

My next few posts will be up, as WiFi connections allow, while on the Inland Passage.

The Road to 65, Mile 186: Northwestward, Day 7, Part 2- Everett and Blaine

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 3, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 2, 2015, Blaine, WA- As mentioned earlier, I drove the length of the Puget Sound metro area, stopping only in deference to my fellow travelers, as the rush hour, and a few accidents, dictated. I stopped in Everett, the northern anchor of the metro region, in search of at least one of the port city’s well-regarded botanical gardens.

Legion Park honours the American Legion, to which I belong. It was thus a logical place to stop and enjoy the interspersing of the great evergreens of this area, with the riot of colour that comes with every well-planned garden. Not being much of a floral authority, I nonetheless present several of the plants that stood out most prominently to me, on this drizzly but glorious afternoon, when I had the place virtually to myself.

Legion Park Memorial Plaque

The Douglas fir is the signature resident of Evergreen Arboretum.

There are seven distinct gardens, within this park.

Here is a Japanese White Pine.

Someone says “Peek-a-boo”.

The Asian ambiance of the garden is scintillating.

Purple and white hemlocks co-exist very well. Let that be a lesson!

Rain is helping the engineers who are healing this soil.

Various clever sculptures accent the flora.

This is my signal to move forward and achieve!

My mother always had forsythia, as ground cover, when we were kids.

Robin kept me company, near the Rock Garden.

The Northwest Native Trail gave me a feeling that I was back on the Olympic Peninsula.

No arboretum is complete, without Bonsai.

“Nanny, nanny, boo-boo!”

Even the frontage of the parking lot is well-flowered.

Here’s one last look back.

Port Gardner Bay, just west of the park, offers a fine view of north Puget Sound.

This bay has a huge osprey colony. The birds were busy fishing, though.

Moving northward, I opted to stay close to the Canadian border, and chose this fine little establishment.

A Korean woman owns the place, and the hospitality is very warm.

Next door, Ocean Bay Restaurant offers excellent Chinese cuisine. It draws regulars from White Rock, BC, a few miles away.

This section of a mural, inside Ocean Bay, brought to mind the victims of the recent Yangtze ferry disaster.

Penny was born in a Year of the Horse, so all her strength and beauty appeared to me, through these magnificent animals.

When I arrived at Bayside, this gull was begging a local woman for food. He obliged me for this profile, a bit later.

Looking northward, I spotted the community of White Rock. Borders may be seen as necessary right now, but they are still artificial.

Thus did my very full day end, in Blaine, Washington.

The Road to 65, Mile 185: Northwestward, Day 6- Portland’s Moveable Feast

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 2, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

June 1, 2015, Portland- The City of Roses is a foodie’s paradise. Between the food trucks, which are everywhere, and the great brick and mortar eateries, one could easily pack on 50-100 pounds, with a smile. Of course, the city is also a walker’s paradise- and the pounds would just as quickly melt away, if one were to indulge in the natural wealth of the hills above the Columbia River, at its confluence with the Willamette.

I took a light breakfast at Econolodge, this morning. That’s a good thing, as one of my Portland favourites, Laughing Planet Cafe, is cattycorner from that motel. The White Bean soup hit the spot at lunchtime, on this most typically Northwestern, drizzly day.

Afternoon brought me back to Washington Park, for a few reprise shots of, what else, roses.

These exuberant specimens show that the Experimental Rose Garden should have a banner year.

I visited the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, in Hoyt Arboretum, as well. It is a pristine and dignified tribute to those contemporaries of mine who did not make it back alive, and those whose remains lie there, still.

The path spirals to the top of a small ridge, from whence to more completely appreciate this serene memorial.

After reflecting some on the basic goodness that my generation still manages to show, for the most part, I took the Wildwood Trail, to the park’s southwestern corner, before ambling back to the Rose Garden.

This is the area that Lewis and Clark trod, looking much as they probably found it.

I also managed a downtown walkabout, from Pioneer Square to the Pearl District. Here is Old Chinatown.

The lions are said to make troublemakers think twice about entering.

Pioneer Square is well-festooned with roses, and other flora.

After my photo shoots, two things remained. Dinner at Pastini brought me their vegetable barley soup and baked manicotti. No Tiramisu, this time, though; I want to refrain from capsizing the ferry from Bellingham to Wrangell, a few days hence. 😛

I spent about a half hour at Powell’s City of Books. It is a given that I must make a pilgrimage there, much as I go to Boulder Books, when in the Front Range. The little novel for which I looked was not there- it’s been distributed independently. I can scarcely imagine a book not being in Powell’s, but there you have it.

The rain came down in buckets, as I headed out of town, and crossed the great Columbia, into Vancouver, WA. With heavy traffic headed into that historic city, I kept to the left and drove on to Chehalis, a gateway to Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens, neither of which I will be seeing up close, on this journey.

My Alaska ferry ticket is purchased, and on Friday, I will be beginning two weeks on the Marine Highway.

The Road to 65, Mile 184: Northwestward, Day 5: Mount Shasta to Portland

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on June 1, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Social, Travel

May 31, 2015, Portland- This is my third visit to the Rose City. I got here around 8:30 PM, after a marathon drive up I-5, from Mount Shasta. The day started with a light breakfast at Seven Suns Cafe, and a brisk walk. I headed north, a little after 11 A.M., after my usual reflections and writing.

My first stop was about thirty miles up the road, in the intriguing town of Yreka (wy-REE-kuh). The pronunciation is intended to distinguish this old mining town from Eureka, the former whaling port on the Lost Coast, about 100 miles west southwest and over the Coast Range.

The origins of Yreka, thus described.

Downtown Yreka, CA

Near this spot, I took a call from my former client, who was delighted to report that all was well in his new environment. This helped further set the tone for my own fine day.

This is the Franco-American Hotel Building. There was no one about, of whom I could inquire as to the flags. I imagine they may be left from Memorial Day.

Just up the street is MacGregor’s, a book and gift emporium.

Closed on Sunday, yet worthy of the title “emporium”.

Most Western towns have their Garden Club.

Yreka’s favourite son promoted freeways across California.

From his point of view, connectedness meant roads.

Two churches in the heart of downtown, are diagonal to one another.

St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church

St. Mark’s Episcopal Church

I bid farewell to Yreka, and to California itself, shortly thereafter. My friends in Ashland, OR were waiting.

Mount Ashland, from the the east.

I enjoyed a lovely lunch, and a two-hour conversation, with my friends, the Weahs, at their lovely garden home.

The freeway took me through plenty of beautiful mountains and valleys, past great owns like Grants Pass, Roseburg, Eugene, Corvallis and Salem. I did stop in Eugene for dinner at Empire Chinese Buffet, which I would recommend for variety and quality of the food. Nothing was overly heat-lamped, and the attendants were constantly replacing the empty pans.

Portland, though, was my destination, and having connected with one of my friends here, I settled in for the night at the downtown EconoLodge.

The Road to 65, Mile 183: Northwestward, Resumed, Day 4- Reno to Mount Shasta

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on May 31, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Travel

May 30, 2015, Mount Shasta- I am at the base of northern California’s most sacred peak,

in a town where Black Bear Diner came into existence, some twenty years ago. The little eatery is still here, and in several other locations, across eight states. So, I had dinner there this evening.

More about that, in a bit. The day started with my little “grand-niece’s” blanket tent being carefully honoured by everyone, including she. After my usual breakfast of cereal and coffee, I bid my Reno family farewell and headed west. The first stop was the Sierra Nevada town of Truckee, both for a bite of lunch, (leftover from last night’s dinner at Pho, in south Reno). and to check out the neat little spot.

Sierra Inn is one of Truckee’s signature hotels.

Truckee Hotel is the other.

The main street was just starting to stir, on this bright Saturday morning.

On the north back street, there is a cute Arts Center: Kindred Art and Folk Institute

Having been to the performing arts center in Carson City, a few days ago, I am more inclined to notice these places, further along the road.

On the south side of town, across the tracks, runs the Truckee River.

It is about as low here, as it was in Reno, on Thursday.

The grass and meadow flowers are doing okay, though.

I drove on, across the Sierra Nevada, skirting Donner Pass- the site of infamy, in the mid-1860’s, and over to I-5, stopping briefly at Panera Bread, in Sacramento, for a power smoothie. The Sacramento River, seen from the highway, appeared to be running a tad higher than the Truckee.

I made it to Mount Shasta, the city of a few thousand artists, ranchers and dreamers, around 5:30. Finlandia Motel, on the west end of town, was my choice of rest stop for the night. It has a small spa, which gave me a much-appreciated soak, after checking out the town by car and on foot.

The office and lodgings have a fairy tale ambiance about them.

I got to play with my zoom lens a bit, over the past few days. The peaks to the west of Shasta (southern Cascades) loom larger.

The town has a fine natural foods market, Berrydale.

A barefoot young man, seemingly in a state of befuddlement, asked where he could get espresso. Berrydale has a small deli counter, but it was 7:30, and even natural foods grocers have to go home at night.

Seven Suns, though, is the main spot in town for fine coffee and tea.

Has Beans is the preferred coffee source in this part of California.

Back to my dinner: I sat at the counter, and was served by an attentive, mature lady. Nearby, a local man was working a crossword puzzle. I was able to give him one of the words, and a man in the booth behind us, gave another. Our conversation ranged from the arcane (He: “Different species of people can interbreed very easily”. I: “That’s because we are all the same species”) to the edifying (He: “I save all my paperwork. When the government came after me, I won.” I: “That’s good to know.”) I learn something new from everyone I meet, it seems.

The Road to 65, Mile 180: Two Gardens, Two Riverwalks- Part 1

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on May 28, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Social, Travel

May 27, 2015, Reno- The sodden ground of Texas has been much on my mind, in this strange, beautiful and terrible end of May. The Red Cross has issued a call for volunteers, both general and specific. Once again, here I am, far afield from the disaster area, wrestling with a measure of guilt and facing my own challenge. Such is the cost of marching to one’s own drumbeat. There will come a time, again, when I will find myself in a disaster area, and will be all-in with the recovery work. For now, that work falls to others.

So, on I go- being here, in The Biggest Little City in the World, for some people who I have known, seemingly forever, and they for me. It will take another day or so for my vehicle to be refitted; then I will take my leave. I hope that, in some way, I will have refitted my friends to address their individual pain-fields, and to be more equipped to cast that pain aside.

Most cities have at least one public garden, where flora of all kinds are celebrated and allowed to flourish. One of Reno’s is the Wilbur D. May Arboretum and Botanical Garden, named in honour of a local philanthropist and rancher, who was a scion of the May Department Store’s founder. It is part of the larger Rancho San Rafael Regional Park. Our visit there, yesterday, took place under partly cloudy skies, in comfortable conditions. Here are a few scenes.

The Duck Pond had two intrepid mallards in it. The often ubiquitous Canadian geese were nowhere to be seen. It being a strange year, that is somehow not surprising.

After stopping by the Visitor’s Center, and confirming as to the reason for the dearth of waterfowl, we continued to the Arboretum and Botanical Garden, proper. St. Patrick’s Grove greets the visitor, and extends along the sidewalk.

The stone shamrock reflects, with its cracks, the experience of Ireland.

The Labyrinth Garden is small, and mainly features ground cover, around the intriguing maze-like circle.

Passing into the Arboretum, we came first to the Kleiner Grove, featuring oaks of the East Coast.

A small area is set aside, in honour of Wilbur May’s mother.

The bridge, and adjacent waterfalls, express Mrs. May’s tastes.

This waterfall was available for photographing. The other was the focus of another patron’s deep meditation.

This abandoned water slide lies just east of the park.

The Songbird Garden was rather quiet, but then, it was mid-afternoon.

These fountain stones evoked Carnac, for me.

Light and shadow have a reassuring effect.

While finishing up our visit, I thought of Blucher Park, Corpus Christi’s downtown nature walk, which feature’s that area’s native plants. It was lovely, this time of year, in 2012. I wonder about its condition now, after the tribulations of last weekend. Corpus saw its record for wettest month broken, this past weekend. It apparently did not suffer as much as places further north and east, but the pain is there, and the community lost one of its own, in floodwaters near the town of Uvalde, west of San Antonio.

We continued on, this afternoon, to Reno’s Riverwalk and downtown. More about these, in Part 2.

The Road to 65, Mile 177: Northwestward, Day 3

Posted by Sagittarian Seeker on May 25, 2015 in Hiking and Nature, Social, Travel

May 24, 2015, Carson City- When I have been rendered less mobile by circumstance, and it is a weekend, my tendency has been to go with whatever flow that presents itself. Memorial Day weekend is not time for automotive shops, or many other business establishments, to carry on business as usual. Besides, the weather, almost nationwide, is pretty horrific right now.

We had a beautiful morning in the Reno area. The plan for today was to visit with other friends in Carson City, Nevada’s capital, some twenty-eight miles south of Reno. It was not a heavy schedule, but a picnic lunch and some playtime for a three-year-old, at a park on Carson’s north side. Here are two scenes of the park, with children and families left to their own devices.

Our little friend had a great time, going up and down a couple of slides, and around other parts of the playground. She was very much interested in the mushrooms which were growing near our picnic table, though not to the extent that lunch was ignored, especially with the doughnut dessert waiting after bites of cold cuts and cheese.

As an afternoon storm began rolling in, we went back to Carson friends’ house, kibbitzed a little about a cheesy, semi-adult cable TV show featuring robots trading barbs with a guy in a Starship Troopers get-up, and headed back towards Reno, using Hwy. 395.

The route took us past Beagle Rock.

We checked out Big and Little Washoe Lakes. The former was little more than a puddle and in fact, Little Washoe is, at present, the larger of the two.

“Big” Washoe Lake

Little Washoe Lake

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A Sagittarian Seeker

Sharing a life of inner and outer journeys

Category Archives: Hiking and Nature

The Road to 65, Day 192: Southeast IS Northwest, Day One In Wrangell

The Road to 65, Mile 191: Northwestward, Day 12- The Joy of Rain

The Road to 65, Miles 188 & 189: Northwestward, Days 9 &10, Whatcom, What May

The Road to 65, Mile 187: Vancouver, Part 2- Stanley Park

The Road to 65, Mile 186: Northwestward, Day 7, Part 2- Everett and Blaine

The Road to 65, Mile 185: Northwestward, Day 6- Portland’s Moveable Feast

The Road to 65, Mile 183: Northwestward, Resumed, Day 4- Reno to Mount Shasta

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