The Road to 65, Mile 235: Back to California, Day 5, Part 1- Santa Monica to Malibu

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July 21, 2015, Ojai-   My first shot, up Pacific Coast Highway, was rather fast- with only the usual five-minute slowdown around LAX to add some vintage Los Angeles to the mix.  Actually, because of advance planning, I haven’t encountered gridlock in the City of Angels, regardless of the route.  I-5, I-405 and I-10 have all been no worse, and usually better, than Phoenix, Denver, Atlanta, Chicago, Boston or New York.  I take that back:  Once, and only once, I spent an hour on the 91, from Anaheim to Riverside.

My first stop on this varied and fascinating day was at a Peet’s Coffee, in Santa Monica.  Main Street has dirt-cheap parking lots, and my spirits guided me to the one across from Peet’s, even before I spotted the coffee shop itself.  Good thing, this, as I arrived right at the appointed time to meet with a long-time Word Press friend.  Kate has been an inspiration to me, since 2012, when I first read her account of a road trip across the South.  Since then, she has focused on many aspects of life, not the least of which being establishing a home, with husband, Brian, and their adorable dog, Frank.

Our conversation lasted about an hour, running the gamut from “How I Met My Wife” to various aspects of our respective journeys- and, of course, Frank- her second-favourite being.  Life intervenes, though, and at noon, she was off to work and I, to Malibu.

At the Los Angeles area’s northernmost beach-meets-canyon wonderland, I was greeted by a sanguine presence.  Mr. Gull, of course, was at the Sport-Fishing Pier, calmly awaiting dropped bait and other delights.

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I wandered around the beach area, near the pier, for about forty minutes, just enjoying the sights and sounds of families, young adults, and the sea itself, at play.

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I’m not sure how I would do in a sea kayak, or on a boogie board.  Those days passed, with yours truly being only a marginal swimmer.

The City of Malibu has gone to great lengths to add flora to its roadsides, both along the highway and on its canyon feeder roads.  Some, like this palm, are native.

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Others, like bougainvillea, just make everything cheerful.

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No visit to this area, however short, is complete without a drive in the Santa Monica Mountains. I spent about an hour, here and there, spotting one actress known on television, standing in a driveway, apparently waiting for her ride and looking at me like I was a celebrity.   At another overlook, while I was sitting in my car, eating a muffin, another young lady, whom I recognized as a child star from the ’90’s, zipped into the lot and jumped out of her car, getting back into it, on the passenger side and sitting with the door open, gazing out at the luscious canyon. (Out of respect for these folks’ privacy, I do not identify them in my posts, nor do I approach them for conversation, especially when it’s just the two of us in an isolated area.)

Here are some shots of the exquisite mountains and canyons, which gaze down on the eternal sea.

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One could wander for days on end, along Mulholland, and its feeder roads, often without seeing a soul, even in these havens for the people of the entertainment community, and their looky-Lous.  I had a few other spots to catch, though, before the day was done.  One that I had considered, Neptune’s Net, a cafe on the Ventura County side of Malibu, found me there at 3 P.M., not my idea of meal time.  So, it was on to Point Mugu, and Ojai, which will be the foci of the next post.

The Road to 65, Mile 234: Back to California, Day 4

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July 20, 2015, Lomita, CA-  I bid farewell to my back-to-work son, around 8:15 this morning, and went back on the road apiece.  We agreed that my main focus, over at least the next five years, has to be my staying closer to base and building my stock back up. The rest of the world will be there, when I am 70, and beyond. Others have concurred with that, while acknowledging that jaunts around North America, and over to Europe, were a good thing for my soul.

I made my usual visit to Orange County, stopping in San Clemente, for time with a longtime friend, J.  We go for a short walk, take lunch and engage in about an hour’s worth of detailed conversation.  Today’s pier walk offered some good views of big waves, brought to SoCal by Hurricane Dolores, which also gave us two days of rain.

The waves, of course, attracted surfers, of various skill levels, up and down the coast.

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You see, above, the progressions of three waves, as they crest and break.

My friend and I went to lunch at Fisherman’s, on the pier’s edge, and each enjoyed salmon and chips.  Our server, R, was keeping a game face and tending to us very well, given the humidity.  We were inside, and I noticed the poor ladies out on the patio, looking as if they were about to keel over.  Tip your servers well, in this hot oven of a summer.

The bougainvillea, off to the north, added some festivity to the scene.  SoCal will surely enjoy at least a brief respite from July & August brownery, with the just passed storm.

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Bidding my friend farewell, I headed up the 405, past Long Beach, to the Pacific Coast Highway.  The Palos Verdes Peninsula was next on the agenda.  My friend, M, who lives not far away, calls this “his” peninsula. He and I had a long phone conversation, afterwards, though he was indisposed for a visit.

Anyway, the headlands are a natural preserve.  One may enjoy the view from above, and/or go down a formidable series of steps, to the beach itself.  As I had to call M, before he turned in, the upper view sufficed.

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A lovely day overall was capped by a gyro sandwich & rice, at Mr. Soulis, a Greek establishment, a bit up the road from Royal Inn, Lomita, where I was staying the night.  Another wonderful soul tended the counter and lit up the room with her smile and graceful demeanor.

Things are going well, and I must remain responsible.

The Road to 65, Mile 233: Back to California, Day 3

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July 19, 2015, Chula Vista- This was a rain-check, for much of the day.  That suits my heart just fine.  Nowhere is rain more needed than in the Golden State.  I was able to finish reading “Death and White Diamonds”, by Jeff Markowitz, and thus have my suspicions verified,as to the end.  Since Jeff is one of Word Press’s, and Xanga’s, own. several of you will surely wish to read this novel for yourselves.  Here are Laverne and Shirley, and the Rizzo family:  Izzy, Lizzy, Cissy and Missy, but not Ratso.  It also answers the question, “Why take the stairs, when you can just use the elevator?”, but that’s all I can say right now.

Aram and I had a tentative plan to visit the Japanese Garden, in Balboa Park, but the greater good intervened, and the rain was heavier today, than it was yesterday.  So, chill out indoors, we did.  I caught the most recent episode of “Wayward Pines”, on my laptop,  as well as read the aforementioned whodunit.

After Aram’s second straight successful dinner offering, I took advantage of a brief lull in the rain, to check out his new neighbourhood.  A YMCA Teen Center occupies an old and interesting building.

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Rice Canyon, seen from above, offers a four-mile walking, jogging and biking path, between Chula Vista and National City, to the north.

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I was content with keeping to the sidewalk overlook, especially as it was near twilight.  Still, it’s quite gratifying to have spotted what some call the South County’s best kept secret.  It’s been a restful and very gratifying weekend.

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The Road to 65, Mile 231: Back to California, Day 1

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July 17, 2015, Oak Grove, CA  “Don’t go telling people this is Aguanga.  We’re Oak Grove!  The sign even says so.”  Thus did a campground host admonish me, when I was describing my location to someone on the phone. This little village is darned proud of its identity, and never mind that the mail is addressed to Aguanga, six miles to the northeast. I stopped here for the night, at what has become my go-to campground, when en route to visiting my son, who is in the Navy, in the San Diego area.

My journey started in a more timely manner than previous SoCal trips, with my getting out the door by 9 A.M.  I was in Blythe by noon, affording me a nice lunch at Rebel BBQ, my favourite venue in Riverside County’s eastern gateway.  It offers south Texas-style barbecue fare, including brisket prepared with a Mexican-German sauce blend.  They offer something called vinegar slaw, which sounds like sauerkraut, but I opted for creamy slaw, with my meal.

It was 102 F, in Blythe, so I headed quickly uphill,  getting to Hemet, a higher desert town, by 3.  I spent a bit more time here than I have in the past, and for the first time, I checked out Hemet’s downtown, starting with its library, where I spent an hour or so.

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The town also has a lovely Children’s Museum, on the southern edge of downtown.  Not having a little one along, I didn’t go inside, but a local mother takes her children there, several times a year.  This speaks well of Hemet’s regard for its rising generation.

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The view towards Mount San Jacinto, 40 miles to the east, is spectacular.

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I headed out of town, along Juan Bautista de Anza Historical Trail, which is paved as far as the Conservation Camp, named in de Anza’s honour.  The route passes several orange groves, which remain a staple of Hemet’s economy, while having faded in other parts of southern California.

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Bautista Conservation Camp, run by the State of California, is used as a staging area for fire suppression efforts.  Painfully, not so far away, on the north side of San Bernardino County, a serious fire is wreaking havoc, destroying a small hamlet and threatening other areas.  I hope the hurricane remnants, that are forecast for tomorrow, bring soaking rain to the region.

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Between Bautista Camp and the Cahuila Indian Reservation, one goes along a narrow, unpaved road, and is treated to exquisite views like this:

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I can only imagine these will be even more gorgeous, once the rain comes.  Now, to sleep under the stars, before that happens.

The Road to 65, Mile 212: The Sierra’s Back Door

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June 28, 2015, Big Pine, CA-  I got my Nissan back in shape again, with a morning visit to Jiffy Lube.  Friends Wendy & Steve hosted a brunch, which was a group effort, and thoroughly enjoyed by all.  Then, I bid farewell to my Reno family.

Little did we know that, a scant thirty miles away, above Gardnerville, three vehicles, including an RV, had collided.  One of those involved was killed.  I was in the southbound five-mile line of cars.  Two hours later, I was in Topaz Lake.  While in the intermittently-moving line, I took these shots of the area.

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The scene at Topaz Lake was rather quiet, away from the bordertown casino anyway.

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Off to the west, the Sierra Nevada showed just a smidgen of snow, where there are normally several feet, even in late June.

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The first town I entered in California was Bridgeport, already set for Independence Day.

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I had a pleasant break and supper, at the lively Rhino’s Grill.  “Rhino” is the owner, not an item on the bill of fare.  Seeing so many families and couples enjoying the nation’s back roads does my heart good, as does being served by congenial folks, of all ages.

The last time I visited Mono Lake was in 1980.  It is about 1/3 smaller now.

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This saline lake is still a gem, but an endangered one.

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As I drove towards Big Pine, and my stop for the night, I caught a glimpse of a superb California sunset.

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Then, as is its wont, the sky went to bed.

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After all that waiting, and switchback-negotiating, the Nissan was just fine.  So was I, settled in at Bristlecone Motel, run by one of the town’s two mechanics.

The Road to 65, Mile 210: Oregon’s Multivariate “Big East”

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June 26, 2015, Lakeview, OR- This day started in the sere brownness of Ontario, in the heart of the Great Basin, above the Snake River.  It was not too hot, as I made my way over to Gandolfi’s New York-style Deli, the closest thing in the Riverside area of Ontario, to a coffee shop.  The fare was satisfying, though the atmosphere was more motel breakfast room than comfy cafe.

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The small village of Vale, southwest of Ontario, is the seat of Malheur County, of which Ontario is the commercial hub.  Vale has a small historical museum, which was not open when I passed through, but was worth a look at the exterior. Eastern Oregon still has an Old West ambiance, in many places.

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The Malheur River waters the area, gathering its tributaries, west of Vale, then heading towards the Snake River, south of Ontario.

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After going through a barren section, once past the Malheur, there is a scrub pine forest that leads the way south, towards Burns.  This area reminded me a lot of central Arizona, just as the Snake River near Ontario resembles the Colorado, in western Arizona.014

Burns, named for the great Scottish poet, Robert Burns, is a quiet, but charming little town, about two hours east of Bend. I was warmly welcomed at Broadway Deli, a bustling local hangout with freshly-made soups and sandwiches.  The ranchers also say it has great breakfasts.  All I know is, I could have stayed all day.

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Once south of Burns, and its smaller sister city, Hines, the desert takes over again.  Ninety minutes later, I was in awe of the sere beauty of shrinking Lake Abert.  This alkaline lake is inhabited mostly by brine shrimp.

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There are numerous iron-oxide infused basalt boulders on its eastern shore, which the Oregon Outback Highway passes.

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Just as Oregon and California meet, the Warner Mountains look over Lakeview.  As I was coming into town, I spotted an Arabian horse, at the roadside fence, nervously shuffling on his back right haunch. Fearing he might be stuck, I went back to the driveway, where the owner went with me over to the pasture, and determined it was the beast’s arthritis acting up.  He was grateful for my concern, and hopefully tended to the poor creature.

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A section of California took me through the rest of the afternoon.  Alturas is a small gateway community, with an Ag-Inspection Station, a dusty main street and Hotel Niles, an early 20th Century railroad stop.

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I continued on, getting gas at the village of Standish and settling in for the night in Susanville, so named for the nearby Susan River.  Both are named for Susan Roop, the daughter of an early settler.  “Susan” was fairly lively when I first got there, as there was a country music festival at Lassen County Fairgrounds.  It wrapped up at 9 P.M., though, and most of the people there were my age or older.  It had been a lengthy drive today, and the car needed a good rest, so before checking out the tail-end of the hoedown, I had some fish fry at Kopper Kettle and took a room at nearby Frontier Inn.  Tomorrow, I will head over to Reno, for a day or so, and catch up with the Nevada Family.

The Road to 65, Mile 209: A Triangle of Towns, Part 3- Lewiston and Its Two Rivers

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June 25, 2015, Lewiston, ID- This eastern half of the Lewis and Clark twin cities announces itself from a place at the foot of winding path, coming down a steep desert hillside.

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Like so many Inland Northwest towns, Lewiston presents a charming and arts-oriented downtown.  Named for Meriwether Lewis, it has, as a centerpiece, Lewis and Clark State College’s Center for Arts and History361

Revolving art exhibits take center stage, on the first floor.  On the day I visited, the Sandpoint-based artist, Kelly Price, offered an astonishing array of Sacred Circles, making a very strong case for the interconnectedness of all things in the Universe and the security which may be found within an orb. Ms. Price’s exhibit clearly shows the universality of the notion that the circle, symbol of completion, is universally held sacred.  (As is my practice, no photos were taken of her exhibit, nor of the presentation of Scott Kirby.)

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Scott Kirby, a pianist based in Boulder, CO, transitioned into painting scenes of the Great Plains, after an afternoon of drawing and painting with his daughter.  The flow of his art work certainly evoked a vibrant musical background.

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On the second floor of the Center, lies a tribute to suffering and perseverance:  Beuk Aie (“Buckeye”) Temple.

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The Temple was built by immigrants from Guangdong, China, who practiced a particular blend of animism and Buddhism, which called for this sort of temple to be used in worship.  It was housed in two consecutive structures, until 1959, when the second structure fell into disuse.  The sacred altar and relics were preserved by Mr. Ted Loy, a Lewiston businessman, until his death in 1981. They were then curated by his family and transferred to Lewis and Clark Community College, for safekeeping.

The Beuk Aie Temple also serves as a memorial to the 34 victims of one of the many shameful incidents of persecution aimed at Chinese residents in the Pacific Northwest:  The Deep Creek Massacre.  In May, 1887, the victims, all miners from Guangdong, were slaughtered by White miners in Wallowa County, OR, who then took the gold that the Chinese men had mined.  While the identities of those involved were determined by investigators from Lewiston, the State of Oregon, which had jurisdiction in the case, found no one guilty.  There is a memorial plaque on the Oregon side of Hells Canyon, but there the matter has rested.

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In fairness, the people of the Pacific Northwest have made enormous strides in White-Asian relations, and the major source of friction in the Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries was mainly economic.  Then again, isn’t it always?  Fighting over crumbs seems to be our wont, as a species.

My thoughts turned to the indigenous residents of this area:  The Nez Perce Nation, symbolized by their leader, Chief Joseph (“I will fight no more, forever”) and the Shoshone, symbolized by Sacagawea, the woman who guided Lewis and Clark through this then rough wilderness.

The confluence of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers has been a key resting and gathering place for humanity, for thousands of years.  Now, a bridge connects Lewiston with Clarkston, WA, which I did not visit this time, as a walk along the Idaho side’s Riverwalk captivated me for nearly an hour, before it seemed time to head down to Lapwai, Nez Perce Nation and further south.

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The people of this area feel a great connection to the Pacific, which both feeds, and receives from,these great rivers.

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The Lewis and Clark Pavilion, at the northwest corner of the Riverwalk, honours the explorers and Sacagawea.  A sculpture with her likeness graces the entrance to the small kiosk.

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I will come back through here, and spend more time in both Lewiston and Clarkston, as well as connecting with a Baha’i friend who I did not realize lives in Lewiston.

After having dinner at Donald’s Restaurant, in Lapwai, it was time to move through the salubrious mountains and canyons of western Idaho.  Hell’s Canyon would have made for some fine photos, but the traffic was horrible, so I went further, to Salmon River Canyon.

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This trestle is one of seven built between Lewiston and Grangeville, to help move gold and other goods.

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The area is among the most rugged parts of Idaho, which is saying quite alot.

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The rest of the day’s drive was through more sanguine territory, from Grangeville to Payette, then east to Ontario, OR, and a rest at the Oregon Trail Motel.  The Beaver State’s Big East awaited.

The Road to 65, Mile 209: A Triangle of Towns, Part 2- Pullman, WA and ITS University

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June 25, 2015, Pullman-  It’s hard to not crisscross between Idaho and Washington, when in this part of the Palouse.  Pullman, a scant eight miles from the University of Idaho, at Moscow, has the equally estimable Washington State University.  I parked in a two-hour spot, downtown, and used these steps to visit the University.

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The school was begun about the time that Washington became  a state, in 1889.  The Palouse was already drawing farmers from the Great Plains, and the small Midwestern colleges were models for the initial Normal School.

With many of the settlers being of Germanic or Scandinavian ancestry, the turreted structures found in universities in northern Europe found emulation here.

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The Clock Tower, a nearly-universal feature of institutions of higher learning, was also one of WSU’s early structures.

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The university library was quite busy, as summer session was still in full swing.  I noted that was true at UI, and, a year ago, at the University of Heidelberg, Germany.

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This touching memorial met me, along the South Fork Palouse Riverwalk, as I returned downtown from the hilltop University.

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Cities worldwide are embracing outdoor murals, and Pullman’s celebrates its railroad past.

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The town has a smaller art scene than Moscow, but young people here are every bit as proud of their joyful noises, as their counterparts to the east319

South Fork Palouse Riverwalk is heavily used by locals, though in the lunch hour, I had the path virtually to myself.

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The Nez Perce influence is still felt here, at the western edge of that great nation’s rangelands.323

I enjoyed a hearty lunch at Heroes and Sports, in the building on whose exterior the railroad mural is shown, above.  Two WSU ladies cheerfully welcomed about twelve of us in from the increasing heat, and I relished a Philly steak, before heading off, towards Lewiston, and points further south.

The Road to 65, Mile 209: A Triangle of Towns, Part One- Moscow, Idaho, and Its University

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June 25, 2015, Moscow, ID –  I have been intrigued by the Palouse region for quite some time now.  So, it was quite a treat to have ended up in Moscow,last night.  I had woken the owner-operator, at Royal Motor Lodge, so my reception  there was not the warmest.  This morning, though, she was a bit sad to see me check out so quickly- at 10 A.M.

I spent about an hour, walking about Moscow’s downtown area, and stopped in at the salubrious One World Coffee House, at the outset of that little jaunt.  With so many people, in and around the place, the only unobtrusive photo of One World was this coffee bean puzzle.300

Downtown and Fort Russell, about six blocks east, are Moscow’s two historical districts.  I found Fort Russell would be interesting for a post on historical houses, but this was the Palouse in June, after all, and it was already getting hot, at 9 AM. So, I kept myself downtown.

Moscow, rightfully, prides itself on being a premier arts venue.

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John’s Alley looks like it’d be a great place to sit and jam.

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Moscow does not ignore its Idaho-ness.  Hyperspuds is the local sporting goods and outfitting spot.

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This message, at the northern edge of downtown, evoked images of The Avengers.

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The McConnell Mansion was built in 1886, by Idaho Governor William J.McConnell.  It’s now the historical museum of Moscow, and Latah County.

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Stone is put to good use, in the Palouse Valley, as evidenced here, at the United Methodist Church.

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Moscow is hip, but that doesn’t mean it ignores its roots.  Farming here does not take a back seat.

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I spent about an hour at the University of Idaho, largely in its cool and impressive Charles E. Shattuck Arboretum.338

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Here is the Red Oak that is the centerpiece of the World War I Memorial Grove.

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The interior of the Arboretum offers trails that could keep one content for a few hours.

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As with other universities, this would mean buying a Parking Pass, as established by the Administration, housed here.

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The university has the good fortune to have a School of Music named for one of the greats.  Mr. Hampton worked with the University, from 1980, until the end of his life, to establish a home for jazz, in its School of Music.  in 1987, he had the honour of seeing the School bear his name.  A Jazz Festival has graced UI, since 1985.  Lionel Hampton is the only jazz musician, thus far, to be so honoured by a University.

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The University’s mascots are the Germanic tribe, the Vandals.

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Their facility is impressive in its length and utility.

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Moscow is a welcoming, and very comfortable town, and I would not be surprised to find myself passing through there, time and again.

The Road to 65, Mile 207: Queen of the Inland Northwest, Day 1

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June 23, Spokane- I woke up from a night of roughing it, on the ground at Country Corners RV Park, in Wilbur, WA, about ninety-minutes west of Spokane. I got dressed and off to breakfast, at Doxie’s Diner, one of those places where the cook is the waitress, and the regulars address her as “Mom”.  The coffee was on the main table, and I was invited to make myself at home.  Great place, Doxie’s, and I could easily have whiled away a good morning there, especially listening to everyone’s stories of the previous night’s aurora borealis, through which I slept, of course. It had appeared around 2 AM.

I had a feeling it was about time I got over to Spokane, to see what had changed since I was last there, in 1995. I stopped for a bit of reflection, at a Rest Area, off US 2. Greeting me was this intrepid little critter, who might be a tad uncomfortable on a leash.

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I got to Spokane, around 9 AM, and headed straight for Riverside Park, which was one of my fondest memories from 20 years ago.  The first sight was the salmon ladder.

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The Spokane Falls, though, are quite prominent, both at the north end of the park and towards the middle.

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After a couple hours of meandering around the park, I headed east a bit, to the old Flour Mill, now home to about a dozen shops.  One of these is Chocolate Apothecary, whose proprietor had sandwiches advertised, along with his main line of delectable chocolate.

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Alas, his sandwiches, prepared by Rocket Bakery, had not arrived.  At his suggestion, I headed across the parking lot, and up the street, to Stella’s Cafe. The Northwest is a fabulous place for cavernous, Steam Punk cafes and restaurants.

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Stella’s offered a lovely Roast Beef, au jus  and had some intriguing art work.  This woman had tied up her demon and her ego, and was ready to take on the world.

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After lunch, I checked out Spokane’s near north side, and its majestic County Courthouse.  This neo-Renaissance classic was built by W. A. Ritchie, and was open for business in November, 1895.  It is, arguably, one of Washington State’s finest buildings.

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Returning to Riverside Park, I found quite a flock of gulls, feasting on whatever they could find in the Spokane River.269

Anthony’s at Spokane Falls is another member, in that great chain of West Coast seafood establishments.  It is across the bridge from the hydroelectric power station.  It is notable that Spokane, using the force of its cascades, was the second community in the U.S., after New York City, to become electrified.271

It was starting to get pretty hot, in mid-afternoon, so this fountain was a big treat for the children who were at Riverside for the day.

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As for me, I went over to Atticus,  a lovely coffee, book and gift shop, across Spokane Falls Drive from Riverside Park, and got a refreshing, cool beverage.  After being there for an hour, catching up on my e-mails and correspondence, I noted the barrista’s consternation, and vowed to come back the next morning, sans laptop, and just savour the coffee.

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The evening was spent, between Downtowner Lodge, which at the time was the only motel in downtown Spokane with no WiFi, Spokane Public Library, and the Food Court in River Park Square, which offered connections to anyone eating supper there.  After satisfying myself that my friends and family were safe and well, I went back to the room and watched a bit of nondescript TV, then read for a while.  Day two would feature a gondola ride, more walking around Riverside Park, perhaps a visit with an online friend and an evening with some of the Baha’is of Spokane.