July 16, 2013- Boulder Canyon

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Now it’s time to focus on all I have seen, since I left the blessed Front Range two weeks ago.  I headed for Glenwood Springs, where my friend Mitchell Silas works during the week.  After driving through Boulder Canyon, from Longmont, where I had spent the night after visiting my uncle and a friend, I stopped for lunch at Nederland, enjoying the fine buffet at Kathmandu Restaurant.  Here are some scenes of Boulder Canyon, below the Falls.

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Atop the canyon lies Nederland, a delightful town with several shops and restaurants, and Barker Meadow Reservoir.

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Once well-fed at Kathmandu, with plentiful North Indian and Nepalese cuisine, I headed towards Central City, Black Hawk and Glenwood Springs.

A Benign Bastille Day

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Yesterday, the bunch of us piled into several cars, and headed first to The Delectable Egg, in Westminster, CO.  This was our Birthday Brunch for the twin ladies.  Melissa took excellent care of our large group, and we continued the fine conversations from last night.

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Afterwards, five of us headed to Boulder, where we first went up to the Flatiron area, on Flagstaff Mountain.  We got a fine view of UC- Boulder, below.

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The twins and their men are thoroughly impressed with the view.

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Our next stop was Boulder Canyon.  The falls trail was closed, but we got some nice views from the fence, anyway.

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The imp in me was sorely tempted to hop the fence and be photo’d inside the hole in the rock!

We capped a perfect outing with a visit to Pearl Street Mall, for ice cream, hot Puer tea, and an hour’s worth of browsing.  A didgereedoo player added to the festivities, as did a bubble man and a violinist.

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There is something for everyone in Boulder.

July 12-13, 2013

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I found my old friends’ homestead with relative ease, on Friday morning.  I had not been out to the community of Dinnebito (“Peoples’ Water”) in 21 years.  It was therefore a blessing, when I received instructions on using a back way, that did not require going up and down what is little more than a jeep track over rocks.  I stayed for two hours, enjoying talk on a variety of topics, from life in the South (First daughter is married and lives most of the year in Alabama) to the unruliness of some sheep.

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After a simple, well-prepared lunch, courtesy of a visiting family from Oklahoma, I left my friends and headed northeast.  The terrain of the Colorado Plateau, on the Navajo nation varies from sage and juniper-covered mountains to red sandstone formations, such as Round Rock and Castle Rock.

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I made it past Four Corners, where Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico meet at a single point.  Just on the New Mexico side of the line, an oil tanker truck had overturned, leading to a serious mess.  Fortunately, it seemed the driver had escaped serious injury.

I stopped at Mancos, having dinner at Grand Cafe, and photographing a double rainbow.                                                               SAM_5194SAM_5192           SAM_5194

After a much-needed night’s sleep, I got up at 5:30 AM, learned a friend’s situation that had been causing me consternation had been eased somewhat, and headed on up the road.  A good breakfast at Junction Restaurant, in Pagosa Springs, CO led me to reflect that our young waitresses do try hard to make their patrons’ meals worthwhile.  Both Brier, at Grand Cafe, Mancos and Kayla at the Junction were attentive and a joy to be around.  I think I will continue “shoutouts” to people who work hard at this job that is not always so rewarding.

I had a pleasant drive through the spine of the Rockies, over Wolf Creek Pass, to Del Norte and then up Rte. 285, the “Gunshot”, which connects southern Colorado most directly with Denver.  As today, I was able to enjoy relatively clear skies, I got some views of La Garita Range and the Collegiate Peaks, near Buena (pronounced “Beoona”) Vista.

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I arrived in Northglenn in plenty of time to rest before my sisters-in-law were guests of honour at their *** birthday party.  About twenty five guests made it a lively and enjoyable evening.  Now, it’s time for bed, just about.

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Missing Their Water

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There was an old country song that went “You don’t miss your water ’til your well runs dry.”  This was a reference to the end of a love affair, but it is now being experienced in a literal sense.

I learned, while having breakfast at Eagle Guest Ranch, Datil, NM, last Tuesday morning, that the village of Magdalena, twenty miles or so further east, had indeed used the last of the water in its well.  Emergency rations were being trucked in from Socorro, by the New Mexico National Guard.

This will threaten the old village’s very existence, so I went there to have a look at Magdalena, and say prayers for the resolution of this matter.  Magdalena is the harbinger of what could become a widespread phenomenon, throughout the arid West, and Plains region.

Here are some scenes of the small town itself.  On the left, is the old train depot and on the right is the Ilfeld General Store, now used as residential and office space.

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These, and some thriving motels and restaurants, will be the immediate victims of the impending dry-out.  The schools and medical clinic will be next, impacting both Magdalena and the Alamo Navajo Community, twenty miles north.

All New Mexico is embracing this small community, and nowhere is the action more intense, though quiet, than at New Mexico Mining and Technical Institute, in nearby Socorro.  The biggest issue, immediately, is to find a drill which can penetrate the unique rock of the Magdalena area.  It is apparently just the right mix of igneous and sedimentary rock that has defied conventional well-drilling equipment, up to now.  The greater issue, long-term, is a water replenishment plan that will require drastic rethinking of settlement patterns and conservation strategies.  The main center for this research, then, is here:

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Magdalena, then, is Ground Zero for the Quiet Crisis that faces us all in the arid regions, the world over. (Think the Middle East is unsettled now?  Wait until the battle for the Euphrates and Tigris heats up.)

Here is the latest on the situation in Magdalena.  Stay tuned.

“APD collects water for dry Magdalena, NM

Water shortage in small town has prompted drive

Updated: Friday, 21 Jun 2013, 7:59 AM MDT
Published : Friday, 21 Jun 2013, 7:59 AM MDT

ALBUQUERQUE (KRQE) – Operation Hope, the water collection drive headed up by the Albuquerque Police Department has collected six moving trucks worth of water which will be shipped to Magdalena, New Mexico.

Water in the town of Magdalena started running dry in the wells a few weeks ago. Since then, tanker trucks have been bringing in water from nearby towns.

As a result of the water shortage, the town has also had to resort to using port-a-pottys in some places as an alternative to toilets.

APD says they will continue to collect bottled water to take to Magdalena in the coming weeks.”- Courtesy of KOAT-TV,Albuquerque, June 21, 2013.

The Land of Elfego Baca

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Those of us who grew up in the ’60’s and watched The Wonderful World of Walt Disney will remember Elfego Baca, a legend in New Mexico history, who resisted the outlaws and cattle rustlers of the late 19th Century.  He was equal parts famous and infamous, though the latter has come to be in question.

In 1885, what is now Reserve, NM, the seat of Catron County, was the scene of a massive gunbattle.  Over 4,000 shots were fired by a posse that had been sent by John Slaughter to arrest Elfego for allegedly killing “Texas John’s” ranch foreman.  Elfego was taken into custody, then acquitted when the door which shielded him from the posse’s bullets was presented as evidence, and there was nothing tying Elfego to the death of the foreman.

His fame came from serving as sheriff of Socorro County, NM, about 60 miles northeast of Reserve.  When I stopped for a while in Socorro, last Tuesday, while en route to Palo Duro Canyon, TX, these pleasant sites caught my eye.  My first stop on a walking tour was San Miguel Catholic Church, the main parish in Socorro.

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Elfego Baca is honoured by Socorrenos at this Heritage Park, on the north end of the Central Plaza.

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Across from Baca Park is one of Socorro’s largest remaining structures from the land-grant period:  Juan Nepomucero Garcia House, now a real estate office.

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South of Baca Park lies another small public space, L.W. Kittrel Park, named for a civic leader who worked to establish it, in the early 20th Century.  It  also serves today as a Memorial to those from Socorro County who served in our nation’s Armed Forces.

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Socorro County Courthouse is the city’s largest building, of soothing creme-colored adobe.

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West of the Central Plaza, and a bit to the south, lies El Torreon, a home built, in the style of the Spanish torreon fortresses, around 1816.  A  Navajo man, who lives in the area, happened by as I was taking the photo, chuckled to himself and remarked that maybe I wasn’t busy enough, taking photos of old shacks.  It’s universal how we often overlook what is right in front of us.  No problem, shi ki’is (Navajo for “my friend”).

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Lastly, my self-guided walk went past Jesus Maria Torres House (1914), built with an amalgam of materials.

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Socorro is a business hub for west-central New Mexico, drawing its life from the Rio Grande.  In my next post, we look at the case of Socorro’s neighbour to the west:  Magdalena, and how closely-tied are the fates of these two communities.

Catron County, NM

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For the past several years, the area between the Arizona/New Mexico state line and the small, struggling village of Magdalena, NM has seen me and mine pass through about four times.  Catron County is one of the Land of Enchantment’s sparsely populated areas, at least in terms of humans.  I seem to encounter more mule deer, elk, raccoons and coyotes here than anywhere else I’ve been in New Mexico.  Then again, most of my journeys there have been in Navajo country, Albuquerque or eastward along I-40 or I-10.

Catron is known for its embrace of the Sagebrush Rebellion, not so many years back, but I’ve yet to meet an ignorant, unmannerly or hot-tempered soul here.  I can camp at Jackson Park, in Pie Town, sleep in at Largo Motel, and get a wholesome meal either at the Largo Cafe, both in Quemado, or at Eagle Guest Ranch, about twenty miles further east, in Datil.

The Eagle is shown above.  For equity’s sake, let’s look at the Largo and at Jackson Park.

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Excuse the small cameos of Largo, I extrapolated them from flickr, which does not lend itself to exporting photos very well, to other media .

One other vignette about Catron folks.  On my way back down to Arizona, coming as I was to help with the Prescott Red Cross Evacuation Shelter, I needed gas, and badly.  With only loose change and trusted plastic in my pocket, it was rather disconcerting to find all electronic services were out of commission, county-wide, due to some problem or another with an accident in Red Hill, Catron’s westernmost town along US 60.

After several attempts at jump-starting her computer, the lady at Rico of Quemado let me gas up, in return for which I was to mail her a check from Prescott.  Of course, the sheriffs of Catron and Yavapai would have seen to it that I kept my word, but it wasn’t necessary.  That’s not who I am, and the check went out two days later.

The point is, one doesn’t come across a more civilized place than the next door neighbour to our White Mountain region, itself quite a neighbourly area.  I will always feel there are friends in Catron.

Full-On, and All-In

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I left home on Monday evening, fully intending to visit friends in Oklahoma and Texas, over the next few weeks.  Late Monday night,   I got as far as Pie Town, NM, before fatigue ran its course, and I slept under the stars at Jackson Park- a community camping area.

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Pie Town actually does have a restaurant, which opens around 9 AM.

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It also honors its Native American neighbours- the Navajo and Zuni.

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I ended up having breakfast in Datil, several miles further east, at Eagle Guest Ranch Cafe,  Penny and I had had dinner there, on our last cross-country journey together      SAM_5014               SAM_5015

Tuesday was spent driving across New Mexico. I stopped for several minutes in Magdalena, a town suffering from TOTAL lapse in its  water supply.  There, I said several prayers.

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I next took several photos of Socorro’s historic district, and spent time in the library of new Mexico Mining and Technological Institute, before moving along through the middle of LOE.  The library is named for the late Congressman, Joseph Skeen, who worked hard to advance Socorro’s educational resources.

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Here is San Miguel Catholic Church, at the north end of Socorro’s downtown.

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The plaza and several adobe buildings add a  pleasant air to the place.

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I  later passed a closed Fort Sumner National Historic Site,  drove up through Texas’ Feedlot Alley and across to Palo Duro Canyon, where I put up my tent. Just before making camp, though, I got a call from Prescott Red Cross.  A fire had broken out and a shelter was being opened.  I told the team of my whereabouts and promised to keep close watch, via the Internet.  

At 3:45 AM, I awoke to the tent crumbling down around me.  The rest of the slumber fest was spent in my car, and I organized the mess in the light of day.  Nothing is broken or ripped, so it will be just put up more sturdily, next time.  The skies over Palo Duro looked a bit threatening, so I focused on checking the Web for news of the fire.  Needless to say, I did not hike to the Lighthouse yesterday.

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In my head, I could hear the slightly annoyed voice of a treasured new friend from one of the organizations with which I volunteer:  “It’s YOUR community that’s in trouble!  Are you sure you want to keep on your merry way?”  I knew the answer to that- even without her prompting:  I was determined to head back, and after breakfast at Blue Corner Cafe, my standard stop in Amarillo, I did just that.  After driving for eleven hours, I was back in my house.  Today, I went in and helped at the Red Cross shelter, and will later go and visit some other friends in Chino Valley, which is the area most affected by the smoke.

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I am just ready, for whatever and whoever, comes into my life, full-on and all-in.

The Fauna of Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

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There are now two main sections of the Arizona- Sonora Desert Museum where animals are prominent.  As with any zoological park, the venomous reptiles and arachnids are kept in displays that are apart from other areas of the zoological segment.  Large predators are likewise kept in areas appropriate for their safety and well-being, and those of all other living creatures, including us.   The new addition to the museum is Warden Aquarium, which focuses on the Sonoran Desert’s rivers, particularly the Colorado, and on the Gulf of California/Sea of Cortez.

Let me start with my greeter, a small lizard.      

Immediately to the right of the lizard’s lair is Warden Aquarium.  You may recognize the animals who greeted me there, as relatives of those featured at the Birch Aquarium, in La Jolla.

Yes, sea horses from the Sea of Cortez!

Moving on, we find more curious animals sticking out of the sand.

                        

These are garden eels, saying “Welcome!” to one and all.

Do you think all minnows are small?

Psych!  These are pike minnows.  They are among the largest members of the minnow family, and are carnivorous, sometimes eating kangaroo rats and small birds, which may get too close to the water’s edge.

I visited this cave, but no bats were around.  Actually, the bat area is off limits, as they transmit fungal and other diseases to humans.

Of the larger predators, the Mexican gray wolves were out and about.  The mountain lions are arthritic and have been sent to Mountain Lion Assisted Living.  A new mountain lion is being sought.  The sea otter is also being replaced.  The coyotes and javelinas  were in hiding, as it was afternoon when I got to their area.

Prairie Dog Town was lively, as always.  Prairie dogs don’t take well to strangers, be they big animals or other prairie dogs from outside the family.

                                                 

A Great Blue Heron was ruling the roost on this fine spring afternoon, near the lagoon.

Finally, the Desert Bighorn Sheep were ranging about their enclosure.  Arizona has some of these great creatures in an area called Palm Canyon, north of Yuma.

There were no sheeple here today.  Everyone was rather animated and engaged in the magnificent surroundings.

 

The Flora of Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

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In 1952, desert afficionados William Carr and Arthur Pack began this center for the extensive study of the Sonoran Desert and its surrounding geological areas.  It was named for both Arizona and the neighbouring Mexican state of Sonora, to lend credence to the view of the desert as a biological zone which transcends national and state boundaries.  This was one of the first international biological preservation efforts.

I was delighted to be able to visit this beautiful site, 12 miles west of Tucson, on the afternoon of May 5.  Here are several scenes of its botanical and zoological treasures.  In this post, the plant life takes center stage.                         

Cacti and succulents, including spurge, are brought here from around the world, just as they are at Phoenix’s Desert Botanical Garden.  The spurge species below are from Ecuador and from Madagascar.

                               

Flora in the Sonoran Desert can be lush,

or sparse.

A single plant may resemble a colony.

A colony may look like a single plant.

A garden may be in its first stages,

just as a nearby plot is in full bloom.

Some gardens fulfill an ecological role.

                                      

Others are more spiritual in purpose.

                                         

The Labyrinth Garden, above, is arranged to allow the visitor to experience it, while walking in meditation.  The three plots shown immediately above it are intended to attract hummingbirds, butterflies and bees.

As plants set the stage for animal life, so the next post will give a few glimpses of Arizona-Sonora’s fauna.

 

The Mission Church at San Xavier del Wa:K

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It is visible from Interstate Highway 19, which links Tucson with the Mexican border:  The gleaming white dome shimmers off to the west.  Upon arrival at Mission San Xavier del Wa:K, one encounters a vibrant little community of Tohono O’Odham people, offering basketry and ceramics- and love for their Creator.  They, and the Akimel (Pima) followed the teachings of a Messenger they called I’itoi (“Elder Brother”), so it was easy for them to embrace Christ, when the Spanish brought His teachings.

The mission is among the most active in the Southwest, with several services on Sunday and Wednesday.

As I approached the church, the outside  balconies were striking.  They were built to replicate Christ’s Mount at Capernaum, when He delivered the Beatitudes.

The mission bells struck twice while I was there.

While waiting for Mass to finish, so my photo shoot inside the  church could commence, I wandered over to the west chapel, and noted this fresco of the Madonna.

While entering the church, I noticed the foyer’s ceiling is similar to that of other Franciscan missions in the area-ocotillo lashings, supported by mesquite beams.

At 10:10, the scrum of photographers were able to enter the sanctuary.  I captured these fine features:

                                                      

 

 

                                                       

                                                        

With St. Kateri as witness, the choir is in full voice, each Sunday, from this loft:

A soloist frequently rings forth, from this dais on the side of the nave:

Although I am not a Roman Catholic, I find the efforts made by this faith community are laudable and uplifting. The mission is sure to be the subject of further visits.