Black Canyon National Recreation Trail: Part 1, Big Bug sector

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Black Canyon National Recreation Trail is one of several such trails, for multiple non-motorized use, set aside by the Bureau of Land Management.  It runs about 85 miles, south to north, from Lake Pleasant Road, in north Phoenix, to an area north of Mayer, AZ.

I plan to explore the trail, a sector at a time, during the course of this year.  Careful following of a recent map led me to the south trailhead of Big Bug sector, west of the small community of Spring Valley, twenty-five miles southeast of Prescott.  The sector is 2.5 miles, one way, from Antelope Creek Road to Highway 69.

This sector is an easy hike, going through range land and some mild desert badlands, before crossing through an underpass at Hwy 69, and continuing on north, for a few miles.  I include all sectors in this series of hikes.  Some will be rather barren; others will bring out the grandeur of the Bradshaw Mountains, whose base the Trail navigates.

Here is Big Bug sector.  All trails start at the parking area, these days.  This one is about two miles west of Spring Valley, on Antelope Creek Road.  It’s a rather busy road, popular with ATV enthusiasts and those headed up into the Bradshaws.

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The Black Canyon Trail, though, is sparsely used, at least on this end.  I only saw three other hikers, with their dogs.

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I did have other company, though, on the rangeland.

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Once past the herds, though, one could see forever.

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The BLM restricts cattle to a point south of this gate.

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When vegetation is sparse, one’s attention is caught by features such as lichen- which here is yellow.

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Some rocks have a glossy cover.

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Others are heart-shaped, letting me know I am being remembered in the Spirit World.

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Up here, the village of Spring Valley is put into better perspective.

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Big Bug Creek meanders in and out of the area, over five miles, east to west.  The creek bed has been dry since October.

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I feel comforted by cairns.  Besides providing direction, they hearken back to roots which I sometimes overlook, in my day-to-day progress.  This one was carefully placed, resembling a saucy cat.

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Where the water is not far underground, the chaparral and other bushes keep a green eminence.

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Early wildflowers have started to grace the land.

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Underpass tunnels always cast an eerie glow.

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This one took me under Highway 69, to the beginning of the Old Sycamore sector, which I will more properly investigate, soon.

An early dinner, at LeffT’s, one of my favourite spots in the Dewey-Humboldt area, also proferred some wisdom to me.  “Old Men Rule” shared this:  “The older I get, the better I was.”  Of course, this was right next to a sign offering Fireball Cinnamon Whiskey.  That’d be quite a taste test, were I still the imbibing sort.

Hope this week turns out a sight better for all up north and east- not to mention the Deep South, which doesn’t seem either deep, or south, right around now.

Cave Creek 101

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I made my first visit to the wilderness, northwest of Scottsdale, AZ, known as Cave Creek Regional Park, on Saturday.  Actually, the park is the southern tip of a region which will be featured frequently in my posts this year.  I began my exploration of the Cave Creek area by hiking Go John Trail, a loop which takes in the eastern two-thirds of the park.

No one seems to know the origin of the name “GoJohn”, but my guess is that it had something to do with the gold miners who thronged in this area, during the 1870’s.  At any rate, GoJohn Trail goes from the Cave Creek Nature Center’s picnic grounds, north as far as the boundary with a parcel of State Trust Land, then loops around to the east, goes  around  GoJohn Mountain ( a mild ascent) and down through a canyon, cut by a branch of Cave Creek, and southward, back to the parking lot.

Here are some views of the trail.

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Once at the junction with Overton Trail, which straddles the west side of the park, GoJohn heads north to the State Trust Land, which will lead any hiker with a permit to Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area, a distance of 4.3 miles.

 

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From a ridge on the northeast end of GoJohn, one spots Elephant Mountain, the centerpiece of Spur Cross Ranch.

 

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The granite and basalt of Cave Creek Regional Park are most prominent on the east side of GoJohn.

 

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The riparian character of the area is most pronounced, as the GoJohn heads back southward.

 

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Heart rocks greet me everywhere, and this trail is no exception.

 

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The trail turns into a Pink Carpet, of sorts, as the homestretch begins.

 

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GoJohn meets up with two eastward-bound trails, the Quartz and the Jasper, along its last mile.

 

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Lastly, the sunsets in the area do not disappoint.

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Much more remains to be seen, in the area drained by Cave Creek.

Big Bug Canyon

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The past two hiking excursions have been to the Big Bug Canyon area, between Mayer and Spring Valley, AZ.  It is drained and informed by Big Bug Wash, which flows out of the Bradshaw Mountains, southeast of Prescott.  I have been in search of the most ill-defined section of Black Canyon National Recreation Trail, which starts in north Phoenix and goes to Big Bug Canyon- a distance of some 85 miles.  This section is the trail from the crags on the north side of Big Bug Canyon to Dripping Snake Spring.  I focused, the past two hikes, on  Big Bug Wash and on the ridge which is cut by Old Sycamore Road, north of the wash.

I may well have found the elusive, and seldom-used, trail sector.  Here is the creekbed of Big Bug Wash, just below the remnants of Granite Dells Trading Post.

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At the end of this segment of wash, lies Big Bug Dam, now little more than a retaining wall.

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This was the scene last Tuesday, at what had been Granite Dells Trading Post.

 

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This afternoon, I set out in search of the actual trailhead.  Walking along the north rim of Big Bug Canyon was one ploy.

 

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The rim road goes as far as this ranch, whose owner may or may not let hikers on the premises.

 

 

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This road has lots of heart-shaped rocks, including  this little pink granite.

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Here is the apparent trail, between Old Sycamore Road and the tunnel under Highway 69.

 

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Here is the tunnel.

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On the south side of the tunnel, the climb down to, and past, the meandering Big Bug Wash awaits, for another day.

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On the other side of the canyon, the ridges to the north are yet another beckoning site.

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Next up:  A day in Cave Creek.

More than Man Caves

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I have wanted to visit Arizona’s largest known publicly-accessible caverns, located nine miles south of Benson, for several years now.  A few days ago, tickets to the two tour routes were purchased and I set aside Saturday, Jan. 4, as my Cave Man day.

After a pleasant night’s rest at Quarterhorse Motel, and a hearty breakfast at the Farm House Restaurant, I headed down the short stretch of U.S. 83.

I pulled into the gate, showed my ticket receipt and went to the Discovery Center, to get my actual tickets, which are collected by the tour guide and reused by many visitors.  I was unable to take my camera or cell phone with me, into the caverns, so my own photos are of the Whetstone Mountains, which serve as the roof of  Kartchner Caverns.

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To the east, one can see the San Pedro River valley, southern Arizona’s most active riparian system.

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While I wasn’t able to take my own photos of the caverns, the Park itself graciously posts several, on Google.  Here are three  representative scenes.

Soda Straw Stalactites are made from the mineral deposits of  a single drop of water, suspending over time.

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^ @Copyright Arizona State Parks

Below is a drapery, which is a horizontal, rectangular mineral deposit.  This is called bacon drapery, for obvious reasons.

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Finally, we see Kublai Khan, a stalagmite, named for the Mongol Emperor of China, celebrated in verse by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.  This formation, found in the Throne Room, is the centerpiece of a delightful laser-light show, at the end of the Throne Room tour.

Kartchner Caverns

^ @ Copyright Arizona State Parks

I also toured the Big Room, in the afternoon.  This room is closed, from May-October, as large colonies of bats roost here then, whilst giving birth and nursing their young.

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^ @ Copyright, GoCalifornia.com

The staff goes to great lengths to keep human oils, peeling skin and hair, as well as clothing lint, from getting in the cavern formations.  Visitors stay on a paved pathway, there are drain cups all along the paths in the caves and no animals are allowed in the caverns.

Ironically, the first exhibit that greets us, in the Discovery Center, is that of a Shasta Ground Sloth, one of the smaller ground sloths of Pleistocene North America.  The remains of one such sloth were found inside Kartchner, when the first two known explorers, Gary Tenen and Randy Tufts entered the caverns, in 1974.  A dead coyote was later found in the caverns.  These finds suggest an earlier passageway into the caverns, perhaps from Guindani Wash, which flows through the area, seasonally.

The Caverns, as mentioned earlier, are surrounded by the Whetstone Mountains, largely comprised of gray chert, which resembles the stone used in sharpening blades.  These small mountains may be explored further, by way of Foothills Loop Trail (2.5 miles) and the Guindani Trail (4.2 miles).  These two trails may be areas I explore later.  For Saturday, the caverns were more than enough to occupy my attention.

Tucson’s Seven Falls- Part 3

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Reaching the turning point of any journey is nearly always fulfilling- and last Friday’s arrival at the Falls was no exception.  Getting up and in there is ALL the fun.

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There are three falls that are accessible to the casual hiker.  I imagine the rock climbers could manage to get permits to go down to the upper four cascades, but I was glad just to have a bear’s eye view to the top.

I spent about ten minutes examining the first cascade, and its pools- both the feeder and receiver.

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Climbing up a short ledge to Cascade # 2, we find this:

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Going up to Falls # 3 is a slight alley-oop, through a safe rock ledge, to the left of the creek flow.

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There is a small beach here, at the hiker’s terminus.  I always count myself fortunate to find others at these sorts of places, so that I may take a photo of them as a couple or, as with the other day, a group of three.  I’m always glad to get a record of my own visit, in kind.

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Looking backwards, I feel blessed by the power of water.  For me, a child of fire, that’s huge.

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Going down the trail, back towards Sabino Visitor Center, I was  always reminded that it has been a work in progress to keep this sacred spot in the state that it was known to the ancient Sonorans.

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The first people here made their marks, but no doubt found the passage to the top of the ridge as formidable as we do.

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I got a nice warning from Mr. Sun that our time together in this breathtaking canyon was getting short.  The flashlight in my day pack wasn’t too fazed.

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Besides, this is another place where I was being closely watched and guided.

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These Seven Falls, in a dryer climate and lower in elevation than their Colorado counterparts, nonetheless inspire, comfort and reassure- just as much as the falls to the north.

Tucson’s Seven Falls- Part 2, Upper Bear Canyon

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The upper part of Bear Canyon features the last two creek crossings, then takes one up a moderate switchback and along a ledge trail, for the 2/3 mile remaining to Seven Falls themselves.  I found a few families returning from the Falls and at least one hiker looking exhausted.  Somehow, though, I did not get the feeling I was about to share his fate.

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The striations on the boulders increase with the level of water activity, indicating heavier mineral deposits upstream.

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Here is a look westward, back at Bear Canyon.

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The wispy cloud rising up reminded me of Penny.  There has not been a time that she has been more missed than right now.

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Heart-shaped rocks always seem to pop up, when I start to get a bit down-hearted.  Guess it’s a message that I can get  over whatever is weighing me down.  This lovely canyon was just the right place, on that day.

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Next:  Seven Falls themselves

Tucson’s Seven Falls- Part 1, Lower Bear Canyon

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I had the pleasure, on Friday of  this past week, of hiking the eight mile round trip, between Sabino Canyon Visitor Center and Seven Falls, in the Santa Catalina Range, northeast of Tucson.  Bear Canyon Trail provides a generally easy path, for the first 2.5 miles,then  7 crossings of Bear Canyon Creek, which are quite straightforward, and have MOSTLY stable steppingstones.  A walking stick, or two, are advisable for the stream crossings, though.  Here are some views of the first 2.5 miles, including a heart-shaped rock.

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Bridge crossing Sabino Creek.

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The trail to Bear Canyon diverges from Phone Line Trail here.

 

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Note the striations on the rocks, which result from centuries of hard water activity.

 

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Here are several shots of Bear Canyon Creek.

 

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There are some interesting rock overhangs, and the long view to the canyon rim, along the way.

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Next, Upper Bear Canyon

Sedona’s Chuckwagon Trail

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As with all things Sedona, this aptly-named trail, opened a few months ago, is a feast for the eyes.  The “Chuck” is a loop trail, of about 3 miles.  Yesterday, I took the segment that links with Devil’s Bridge Trail, so as to go up to Vultee Arch and get up close to that marvel of nature, also called Devil’s Bridge.

It is a moderate hike, in my estimation, not requiring much effort for most of the way- but asking the hiker to use caution on the final ascent to the Arch, as well as on the descent.  Along the way, much attention was focused on three rock climbers , perched on the south face of Mescal Mountain, across the canyon to the north.

Here are several shots of the Chuck, and of Vultee Arch.  First, is the Dry Creek Road Parking area.

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I took the segment of Chuckwagon that went towards the Bridge.

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The route to the Bridge goes east, through the scrub of the southern Great Basin, across Dry Creek (which actually had pockets of water, here and there) and back south a bit, to the Devils Bridge parking area ( a small dirt lot), off the four-wheel drive-only road.

Here, we can see the north section of Capitol Butte, which is home to the arch.

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Mescal Mountain and Doe Mountain are visible to the north.

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The trail is very easy here.

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True to form, I found not one, but three, heart-shaped rocks along the trail.

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There are riparian pockets along the way.

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One can see the arch from a fair distance, once on the Devils Bridge Trail.  That trail is about a mile long.

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The view from the sandstone bench, southwest of the bridge, is also worth the short climb.

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Here is an interesting sandstone “slice”, near the Devils Bridge Trailhead parking lot.

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Finally, on the bridge itself, is an example of “Boys will be boys”.

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I find myself feeling best, when on the trail, whether surrounded by throngs or in isolation.  Hiking is one of the few things I haven’t messed up.  Besides, it keeps me healthy.

OC’s Wild Side

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Saturday, November 30 led me up the coast to Orange County, as has been my wont, over the past several Southern California visits.  I’ve been to all but two of the OC beaches, and elected to return to San Clemente Beach, for a short while on Saturday morning, so as to enjoy an early lunch and breathe a bit of salt air.

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Not knowing what the traffic situation would bring, I headed north a bit, along the coastal highway.  Glancing over at I-5, I spied, with my little eye, a line of traffic inching its way towards the Capistrano Beach exit.  So, the coastal drive continued, as far as just north of Dana Point.  I was able to easily cut over at Crown Valley, and followed the various highways up to Brea, leaving me plenty of time to enjoy Carbon Canyon, home to Orange County’s only remaining grove of Coastal Redwoods.  The area is in what was once the oil-producing town of Olinda, now submerged by a reservoir that was created by the Carbon Canyon Dam.

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The first part of the regional park is standard SoCal wilderness, with a fledgling botanic garden, for effect.  The dam has left two small reservoir ponds that are linked.  Standard SoCal means plenty of manzanitas and California Live Oaks, but there is the promise- of redwoods.

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After a mile or so, there they are.  No, it’s not a Christmas tree farm. These are for posterity, and new trees are growing!

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The ponds are also a source of enjoyment to the people of Brea and Yorba Linda.  There were almost as many people along the shore as there were enjoying the redwoods.

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On the way back, one is reminded that this is still an extension of the Sonoran Desert.

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Immediately to the east of Carbon Canyon lies Chino Hills State Park, with several gems of its own, extending from Olinda to the town of Chino Hills, nearly 20 miles eastward.  This is a place to explore another time, but for now, here is the west end of Telegraph Canyon.

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Doubling back through Carbon Canyon park, on my way back out, I spotted a bit of tree hugging.

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It was a good point in time for time travel, of sorts, so I went to downtown Brea, and found some blasts from the past.  Next post:  Back to the seventies.

A San Diego Thanksgiving, 2013.

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Thursday, November 28 was:  Thanksgiving, the first day of Chanukah, the anniversary of the Ascension of ‘Abdu’l-Baha, another day in the dissolution of the comet that was challenging the Sun’s atmosphere.  It was also my 63rd birthday.  As such, all made for a perfect opportunity to spend a couple of days with my son, Aram, at and near his naval base, in San Diego.  We shared things of which we are mutually passionate:  Julian, CA and a couple of hiking trails, the latest installments of “The Hunger Games” and “Thor”,  dinner at Applebee’s and DVD’s of the first season of “Game of Thrones”.  He also introduced me to Zorba’s, a Greek-buffet.  I sat out his Black Friday excursion, merely helping to transport the loot from my room at Navy Lodge, which is near the Navy Exchange, to his room, across base.  He didn’t go to excess, for which I feel validated as a father.

Here is a photo-based chronology of November 27-28.

I left Prescott around 10 AM, on 11/27.  Lunch consisted of superb shrimp tacos, at Nichols West, in Congress, AZ.

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The owner said there is a Nichols East, somewhere in Long Island, NY.  That’s as good a reason as any to explore Long Island.  If the restaurant is closed, there are always Amagansett, Sag Harbor and Montauk, on which to fall back.

I continued on, after lunch, through Arizona’s Outback- only to read what I’ve often thought:

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My inner Grammar Nazi got me through this one, just fine.  It’s their Beyond Hope, not mine- LOL.

I arrived in San Diego around 6, courtesy of a couple of serious high-speed-induced crashes that led to traffic tie-ups for the rest of us. We got MOI settled into a cozy room at the Navy Lodge, and drove to Applebee’s in Plaza Bonita, near Chula Vista, on the south end of Metro.  Afterwards, I joyously crashed and Aram went back to his barracks.

Thursday, Thanksgiving et al, was spent on the trail.  The venue was Cuyamaca Park, a section of Anza-Borrego State Park, in the foothills of the Laguna Mountains, east of San Diego.  There was a serious forest fire here, about three years ago.  We were  just happy to get out and enjoy the modest trails, even in the charred surroundings.

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We continued back towards Julian, after an hour or so of hiking.  It’s good to give a nod or two to Lake Cuyamaca.

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Julian offered a few options for Thanksgiving Dinner.  We chose Julian Cafe, where we had dined last year, on a different occasion. The traditional meal was fabulous, from apple-pumpkin soup and hot cider, through the full dinner plate centered on roast turkey and cornbread stuffing with chicken sausage.  There was no dessert included, but I had hot pumpkin bread, as part of the meal and Aram got his caramel apple.  So this Thanksgiving/birthday dinner was worth it.

The day was topped off with Jen.  Ms. Lawrence and Company did a smashing job with “The Hunger Games:  Catching Fire”.  Even Donald Sutherland did a much better job this time, as the villain.  There are some plot twists, especially at the end- no spoiler here.

So, the convergence of special days was a fine one.  San Diego, Julian, and so many points in between, will always register dearly with me, because of over 30 years of family connections to the area.

Friday was lower key, being rather overcast.  After tending to Aram’s stuff, and my trying on his gift of new hiking boots (great fit!), we went to see “Thor:  The Dark World”.  Tom Hiddleston excels again, as Loki, and Asgard looks like the kind of multi-racial world where all is going so well- until stuff happens, courtesy of some dark forces.   The film is topsy-turvy, as is the universe during its plot unfoldment.  After this, we went to Zorba’s, taking along one of Aram’s barracks mates, and had fine Greek buffet fare.  The day ended with us watching several episodes from the first season of “Game of Thrones”- an HBO quasi-medieval-meets- Westerns series, that several of us have surely seen.  Unsettling, but entertaining, in a quirky way, the series is mostly faithful to the serial novels of  “A Song of Ice and Fire”, by George R.R. Martin.

The two days and three nights were among my fondest visits to SD.  Next:  Another fine day in the OC.