Supplying the Spirit Quest, Part II: Pipestone, from Winniwissa Falls to the Quarries

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Several of you found Winniwissa Falls to be a delight, in your responses to my first post.  I did, as well, and in following the trail to the true treasure of Pipestone National Monument, learned of the value of this water, in softening the stone, so that it could be used for the ceremonial pipes that are so valued by Native Americans.

Here are scenes leading to the quarries, and the rock supplies themselves. Let’s start with the rim of Pipestone Canyon.

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Atop the rim, lies The Oracle.  Do not ask what it foretold!! 🙂

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We proceed from The Oracle to the quarries, some of which had catlinite.

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There are four main quarries at Pipestone, each serving a different grouping of tribes.

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Quartzite fixed quarry, the northernmost of the four quarries.

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Here is a view of the tallgrass prairie, which once covered most of the upper Midwest.

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Once one says farewell to Pipestone’s main section,

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it’s worthwhile to stop at Three Maidens, also a site sacred to the Sioux and other nations.

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This was also a point on the North American Spiritual Arc, as I have styled the points along my journey of late July.

Next: I ended July 22 with an hour or so in the town of Pipestone, a delight in itself.

Supplying the Spirit Quest, Part I: Pipestone, from the Visitor Center to Winniwissa Falls

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Coming into the grounds of Pipestone National Monument, MN, I had a sense of the importance of the stone from which ceremonial pipes were being made.  It is instructive to me that the Chippewa, Sac and Fox, Lakota Sioux and Yankton Sioux regularly quarry the stone, from three places on this site.

I toured the visitors center first, though quite frankly, I was not impressed with the staff, other than one of the young women rangers, who seemed genuinely glad I had stopped there.  The others were either perfunctory or rude, to varying degrees.  The natural area was much more satisfying, but then, that is why I came here in the first place.

Here are some scenes from the  trail network, which features a creekside walk, a clifftop view, and Winniwissa Falls.

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The place itself is fascinating, as is the concept of fashioning ceremonial pipe from cut quartz and catlinite.  More on the quarries will follow, in Part 2.

Black Elk Peak, Segment III: Playtime on the Summit, then Back Down

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There were quite a few people on different parts of Black Elk Peak’s summit, on July 21:  The usual college-age guys posing for photos, on the most seemingly inaccessible rocks; the young ladies, sun-bathing, on their own “private” section of boulder, and folks like me, checking out pools of water in the area once used as a water-collection spot for the fire watch crew.

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Throughout nature, living creatures seek companionship.  Look closely, and you will see two butterflies.

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On the way down, along Trail # 9, I came across an injured man, whose party had already requested medical assistance.  The dangers of heat prostration cannot be minimized.  I was fortunate to have an abundance of water, on hand.  The Search and Rescue crew passed me, about a mile further down the trail.  They have some amazing equipment in this area.

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Passing the westernmost boulders, at the base of Black Elk Peak, I bid the fair mountain thanks and farewell.

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Thus ended this phase of my spiritual quest.  It brought me in touch with myself, forced me to confront my darker places, and helped cleanse those areas.  My focus now was on crossing the prairie, to Pipestone National Monument, in southwest Minnesota.

Black Elk Peak, Segment II: Cathedral Spires to the Summit

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Cathedral Spires is an area where I could camp for days on end, if it were permissible.

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Yet, there was something of grandeur lying ahead for me, on Sunday afternoon, July 21:  The summit of Black Elk Peak.

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The columbine were there to send me forward.

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As I ascended, the views of the surrounding Black Hills region underscored the uplifting air.

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While the haze was a small bit of a damper, one can look beyond it and be glad for such as this.

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The summit was now just a stone’s throw away, once past this little “tunnel”.

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Upon reaching the summit, I found several rather hazy views, but there was also this:

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and this,

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this,

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courtesy of this:

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It was a beautiful day, in the hawks’ neighbourhood.

Next:  Playtime at the summit and someone’s harrowing descent

A North American Spiritual Arc- Heart of the Black Hills, Part 4: Black Elk Peak, from Sylvan Lake to Cathedral Spires

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After spending about an hour at Crazy Horse Monument, I headed directly for Custer State Park, and Sylvan Lake.  From there, Trails 4 & 9 offer breathtaking choices, in heading for the summit of Black Elk Peak, another mountain that is sacred to indigenous people of the High Plains.    I will describe my hike of Sunday, July 21, in three segments.  Today,  I present the first half of the ascent:  Trail #4, from Sylvan Lake to Cathedral Spires.

The photos will tell the rest.  The approach to Custer State Park offers a hint of what lies ahead on Black Elk Peak.

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Next,we arrive at Sylvan Lake, a very popular fishing and swimming spot.

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Now, on to Trail # 4.

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The Black Hills remain heavily forested, yet have igneous, granite and limestone formations much like those of points further west.

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A spire, looking like a cave, got some new friends and I in the mood for further adventures, uptrail.

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The trail itself is quite moderate, in terms of elevation gain, up to and including the turnoff to Little Spirit Tower (which I did not visit, this time) and Cathedral Spires.  It was worth noting, however, the effects of heat on the quartz which is also ubiquitous here.

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Now, back to the various and wondrous shapes, which the rocks present.

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Wildflowers get in their two cents, every now and then.

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Through it all, the rock guardians keep watch.

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Soon, again alone, I came to Cathedral Spires.

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From these majestic volcanic uplifts, I would continue on a somewhat steeper course, to the awe-inspiring summit of the highest mountain in the Great Plains region.

Heart of the Black Hills, Part 1: Black Elk Peak’s North Side

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I decided to have a 3-4 hour look at the northern, less-traveled slope of South Dakota’s highest peak, on the bright and sunny Saturday afternoon, July 20.  There’s a Horse Camp nearby, but I found myself the only person on the trail, which is clear as far as a small waterfall.  This was a perfect place for me to turn around, after three hours on the trail.

Here are some views of this wilder side of the Black Hills.  I credit a family of horsefolk for showing me Trail #9.

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Limestone and granite abound here, as they do in the Southwest, as remnants of glacial movement and volcanic thrust.

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A lone butterfly was resting in the ash-coloured soil, as I passed carefully by.

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The fruits of the butterfly’s, and other pollinators’ labours, are much in evidence here.

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Monster-faced rocks added to the legends of the Arapaho, Shoshone and Crow, as well as the Siouan nations who occupied this area in more modern times.

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Greeting me, and anticipating the next day’s visit, were the spires of Black Elk Peak’s summit.

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Some smaller spires were well-hidden by the forest.

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Others very proudly thrust their chests out.

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I arrived at the falls of South Fork, Spring Creek, as the five-thirty “click” signaled to me that it was time to head back.

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Tomorrow, I would be full-on, along the south slope of this magnificent peak, and would reach the top.  In between, the more settled gems of Mount Rushmore, Custer and Crazy Horse Monument awaited.

A Brief Diversion Along A Spiritual Arc: The Aladdin Tipple

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No, it’s not THAT kind of diversion.  I don’t take alcohol, and this is not that sort of “tipple”.  Aladdin was a coal-mining community, and a tipple is a system for sending coal down a hillside.   Aladdin Tipple is no longer in use, but it is preserved by Crook County, WY, as an historical place.  Informational signs are placed appropriately, so we may know this aspect of our heritage, whether one likes the idea of burning coal or not.

Here are some views of the equipment that is preserved in the park, 1 mile east of the Aladdin Store.

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A short climb up the stairs brings one to the top of the sluice, now being reclaimed by nature.

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This was Wyoming’s swan song, for this trip.  I will be back in the Equality State, someday soon.  It has given me more than I can ever repay.  Now, on to South Dakota- the Spiritual Arc leading through the Black Hills, to Black Elk Peak and Crazy Horse Monument.  An iconic diversion will be covered:  Mount Rushmore.   We will consider the brilliant prairie sunsets, Corn Palace and decaying farm structures, as well as the openness and camaraderie found in small wayside cafes.  The human warmth found in a town named for one of  America’s most controversial military commanders also radiates well for the Artesian State.

Thank you, Wyoming, for honing my spirit.

A North American Spiritual Arc, Part 3: Tower of the Spirits

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Devils Tower, aka Spirit Tower, or Bear Lodge, was originally to be the third stop on a summer-long journey across North America.  Several things combined to effect a change in that plan.  I’m happier for it.  I will reach all the postponed destinations over time.

As it stands, the Tower is close to the culmination of a drive across Wyoming, which lasted three and a half days, and has provided fodder for several posts.  It is also near the western terminus of what has served me as a spiritual arc, along which I have focused on discarding baggage, that would ill-serve me in any future relationship and on putting spiritual energy into focus for several greater goods.

I awoke early on Saturday, July 20, and got myself together by 5:30 AM.  You have already seen the Tower at dawn.  Here are views of the phonolite monolith, from each direction, as well as of the boulder fields that lie at its base.  I started at the Visitor Center, which is one of the oldest log cabins in the region.

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My route that morning was counterclockwise, mostly because I had not woken up enough to focus on going through the boulder field and finding the southern part of the trail, which would have gone in a clockwise direction, far preferable in circling a place such as this.

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So, here are scenes on the southeastern face of the Tower.

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The phonolite, which gives the Tower its unique surface, is the result of an igneous intrusion, caused by volcanic uplift.  Devils Tower is still rising, throwing boulders out of its way as it shoots slowly skyward.

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Many people regard this laccolith as a sacred place.  Shoshone people associate it with  a boy, who turned into a bear, thousands of years ago.  It is held, in this legend, that the bear still lingers here, thus some call Devils Tower “Bear Lodge”.  The mountains north and east of the Tower are called Bear Lodge Range.

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Now, we see the Tower from a northeastern perspective.  Note the rougher corrugation of the phonolite on this side.

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The north side brings us to a  scene viewed from the top of  Bear Lodge Mountain.

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The phonolite is smoother on the west side of the Tower.

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Here is a full-on view of the Tower, from atop a rock, due west of the laccolith.

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When I rounded the corner, I  found the southwest wall looking slightly like the Temple of Karnak, with stone”guards” jutting slightly from the slats.

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At each place that is regarded as sacred by indigenous people in the uplands of the Plains region, prayer flags are very common, as people come for Vision Quests and other devotional exercises.  The Tower is no exception.

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Once I completed the Circle Trail, I went back to the commercial area and spent some time posting.  Then, it was time to greet my little friends.

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I was advised by the volunteer at the KOA counter to take the northern route to the Black Hills , through Hulett, and to stop at Rogues Gallery.  So, I took her advice, saying thank you and farewell to this Tower of the Spirits, from a northeasterly perspective.  I felt a very strong resonance, leaving this magnificent site.  It would give me great strength, in moving through the Black Hills.

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Next:  The Northern Bear Lodge Region

A North American Spiritual Arc, Part 2: Medicine Wheel to Spirit Tower

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This will be short on photos, mostly because it was largely raining that night, from Gillette to the Devils Tower park campground.

As I came down the mountain from Medicine Wheel, my heart was still very much in prayer.  Aram called at about the halfway point of the descending drive, just shy of Dayton.  It was a good 45-minute break from driving, and we covered all of what was up with him, and with me.  It’s always worth the time, and we come away understanding one another’s positions.  So, he knew how I felt about things, and people, and why.  There’s nothing earth-shaking about it, but I think maintaining clear communication channels obviates messy interpersonal situations later on.

Dayton and Ranchester are lovely, now quiet farm towns.  In the 1890’s, though, the area had its share of the conflict between the U.S. Cavalry and Plains Indians, being not that far from Little Big Horn.

The Battle of Tongue River took place in what is now Ranchester.

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Indian Wars always leave me in a dumpy mood.  The whole concept of owning the Earth is rather dicey, though I know we have to have some form of identity.  Still, setting oneself apart from others, by means of ownership, kind of countermands the sense of responsibility that ownership implies.  There are homes of friends, which I cannot visit, because one or more of the owners has/have serious trust issues.  Fortunately, most of these are places I seldom visit, anyway.

The Tongue River, and its commemorative park in Ranchester, provide relative peace and solace for about two dozen people, on any given night between May and October.

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After eating a picnic supper here, I headed on through Sheridan, Buffalo, Gillette and Moorcroft, without stopping,  It was raining, hard, all the way to Devils Tower National Monument.  A friend had shown me photos of shimmering lights circumnabulating the Tower’s summit, while cautioning that these might be Photoshopped.    Still, I had hope for the magic to break out of the clouds, and elected to sleep under the stars, when I awoke in my car, at 1:30 A.M., and saw a beautiful, clear sky.  Rolling out my tarp, mattress pad and sleeping bag, I reveled in the silhouette of the Tower, set under the shining canopy.  Sleep came easy, until 5:45, when it was time to hustle over to the Tower Trail.

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Next:  Tower of the Spirits

A North American Spiritual Arc, Part 1: The Medicine Wheel of the Bighorn

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I was advised to visit this Medicine Wheel, by my waiter at Elk View Lodge, once he learned that I was on a spiritual quest, of sorts.  This is ancient structure, first built, apparently, to keep track of the movements and positions of stars such as Aldebaran, Sirius, Rigel and Fomelhaut, particularly with regard to the solstices.  The Crow people, and other indigenous nations, send their youth here, as part of the vision quest process.

The U.S. Forest Service maintains the site, as a National Historical Landmark.  I was honoured to hike it, and found it to be the westernmost point in what was to prove the heartland of my journey:  The Bighorn-Bearlodge-Black Hills crescent. The Medicine Wheel is located about 15 miles east of the Bighorn River, and some 26 miles east of Lovell, WY.

Here are some scenes from my hike up to the Wheel, and of the structure itself.  Please don’t be disappointed, but out of respect to the sacred nature of the adornments being placed on the Wheel, as well as that of the Wheel itself, I have one lone photograph of this magnificent structure.

First, here are some views from the trail up Medicine Mountain.

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The Forest Service has placed informational signs and benches, at key points along the route.

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The limestone surface is unusual for this part of Wyoming.

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The route was perfect exercise for me, after a heavy meal at Elk View.

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Nearing the summit, I began to pray privately.

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At the Wheel itself, I stood to the side, away from other visitors, and continued prayers for healing and protection of a few blessed souls, and for mankind as a whole.

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The Medicine Wheel smiles on a wide swath of magnificent Wyoming, and on into Montana.

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Next:  The Road to Devils/Spirit Tower (aka Bear Lodge)