I undertook the Payne Steps, from the overlook to the seashore, as I can’t pass up an opportunity for a cardiovascular workout, especially when faced with luscious New England seafood.  

These are examples of cairn art, a pastime I have seen elsewhere along the New England coast.  It seems to be in full flower here along Block Island’s eastern shore.

Here is a piece of detritus, actually adding some ambiance to the beach.

This “catapult” is of recent vintage, though several indigenous nations counciled here in the 17th Century, around the time of King Philip’s War.

The gypsum and limestone cliffs that ring the island provided a measure of protection for the gathered nations.

Moving inland, just a bit, one finds static, catchment-type ponds.

Along the approach to the glacial moraines of Rodman’s Hollow, an invitation to take a few swings at life.

Then, we get to Rodman’s Hollow.

Once out of the glacial moraines, I passed the airport and New Shoreham’s Town Hall.

Back in town, en route to New Harbor, I passed three more of Block island’s great hotels.  First, is the  National.

Next is the Surf Hotel.

Finally, here is the Harborside Inn.

I came to New Harbor, a mile west of the Old, as the day was drawing to a close.

There is “lethal” twist to New Shoreham’s rather formidable line of restaurants.

Finally, as the ferry back to Point Judith pulled out, I caught the sunset.

This island, like its Massachusetts and New York neighbours, is a place of dreams.

I spent about two hours on this stretch of the walk, and found it the most varied in scenery.  The crowds congregated around the great houses, between New Shoreham and North Point Fibers.

Here is the Manisses Hotel, owned by the Abrams family.

Lightburne House is a bed and breakfast, just south of the Manisses.

The Abrams’ also have an organic farm and exotic stock ranch.  The animals may be fed with pellets, which are purchased outside the pens.

As it happened, only the donkey was much interested in eating.

Tank, the Galapgos tortoise, was just glad to be out and about.

I have always liked long-haired, shaggy-looking Scottish cattle.

This seems to be my summer for emus.

The dromedaries were making a racket, but kept back from feeding.

The Birds of Paradise were not flying up anyone’s nose, in this early afternoon.

Free-ranging alpacas are the sources of wool for North Light Fibers, whose store is adjacent to the ranch.

1661 House is the southernmost of the Abrams Family properties.

The Spring House is the last of the great resorts in the southeast quadrant.

Occasional views from the road reminded me that there is good reason for these resorts to be expensive.

I arrived at Southeast Light House around 2:30.  The house is unoccupied, but is maintained by the Block Island Historical Society.

Like other communities, Block Island suffered a loss on September 11, 2001.

The view from Southeast Light is, nonetheless, breathtaking.

There were other gems awaiting:  Payne Overlook, and its Steps to the Shore, and Rodman’s Hollow.

These will be featured in Part 3.

The small island that lies between Rhode Island’s southern coast and Long Island’s eastern tip has elements of both New England and New York.  New Shoreham, the village on the north side of the island, is the business and administrative center of the island, and is home to most of the 900 or so year-round residents.

It is to New Shoreham that regular ferry boats come, each day, year round, from Point Judith (Galilee), RI, New London, CT and Montauk, NY.  I took the 11 AM from Point Judith, arriving in New Shoreham at noon, on Friday the 13th.   It turned out to be a fine day, and no one was brandishing a scythe.

I spent the day on foot, exploring much of the eastern portion of the island, from New Shoreham  to Rodman’s Hollow and Black Rock Point. This post shows New Shoreham, and Ocean View, its town park, overlooking the sea to the east.

Here are some views of North Point, as we steamed towards the island’s Old Harbor.

Around noon, we came into New Shoreham.

The Visitors Center greets one and all.

I enjoyed lunch at Finn’s, choosing an al fresco table.

Old Harbor Inn is one of nearly two dozen establishments where one could spend the night.  I, of course, was a day traveler.

The island’s sole rotary is in the middle of New Shoreham.

Another Cape Cod style structure is the chapel on the hill.

Just east of the chapel is Ocean View, with its meditation pavilion and short, but scenic trails.

Here are the stairs to nowhere.  Actually, the area is a remnant of a small farm house, from the 18th Century.

A small cenotaph memorializes a fisherman from New Shoreham.

From the overlook, one can see Ballard’s Beach and jetty.

The inland trail takes one around to a small farm, run by the town’s public school.  Ruins abound, of the abandoned farm.

The children decorated and laid these stones.

From Ocean View, the path took me past some other small farms.

Next:  Part 2, East Side resorts to the Payne Overlook.