Highway 50: Loneliness Is All In The Mind

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June 2, 2016, Ely-  Sitting in the spare, but comfortable Silver State Restaurant, in this little anchor-town of the White Pine country of eastern Nevada, I had a bit of time to reflect on “America’s loneliest highway”.
I got on U.S. Highway 50,  in the eastern edge of Carson City, around 10:30 this morning, saying goodbye to my Baha’i sister, and her new home across town.  Gradually, the wonders of the Silver State itself unfolded:  The exit to Virginia City, the Comstock Lode historic site of Dayton, and the small commercial hub of Fallon, which serves as the western anchor of the so-called Lonely Road.

Fallon was rather quiet, on this first of many hot days to come.  It did have its share of business, though, and some of that filtered in to Susie’s BBQ, where I stopped for lunch.

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Susie’s BBQ, Fallon, NV

I opted for brisket, as it was not really a sausage kind of day.  A Big Heat has taken the West under its wing, probably for the next seven or eight weeks, so we move, eat and adjust accordingly.

On my last ride across Highway 50, in 1980, my driver pointed out an expanse of salt flat, a remnant of ancient Lake Lahontan.  This was a massive body of water, stretching from the Sierra Navada to the Toiyabe Range.  Its remnants include the much smaller Lake Lahontan, east of Fallon, plus Lake Tahoe, Mono Lake and Pyramid Lake.  I did not, given the nature of my visit, go to any of the three western lakes, and there is intensive road work around the present Lake Lahontan.  Thus, here are some surrealist, filtered scenes of the Carson Lake Salt Flats.

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Notice there are some graffiti, inscribed by local lovebirds and various passers-by, who find romance in the desolation.

My next focus was on the Toiyabe Range, one of three mountain ranges that stretch north to south, in central Nevada.  The Toiyabe and White Pine mountains, like the Sierra Nevada, are still somewhat snow- packed on their summits and high ridges.

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Toiyabe Range, central Nevada

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Toiyabe Range, Central Nevada

Austin is one of those little towns that used to be a link on the Pony Express, as well as where silver, lead and zinc were mined.  Silver still can be found, here and there. Lead being largely out of favour these days, for health concerns, is cause for several closed and shuttered mines.  The few folks who live here tend to be flinty-eyed towards anyone wearing shorts and a camera, but I find places like Austin intriguing, nonetheless.

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Main Street, Austin, NV

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St. Augustine’s Church, Austin, NV

The back streets have their appeal, as well.  Virginia Street alludes to the Mother Lode.

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Lander County Courthouse, Austin, NV

Back on Main Street, the courthouse and visitor center(closed at the time) give Austin a bit of gravitas.

The walls in back of the main properties were built to last, with land slides always being in the back of people’s minds.

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Retaining wall, behind Courthouse, Austin, NV

The old city hall was taken over by the American Legion, as John F. Hiskey Post 45, in 1947.

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Old City Hall, Austin, NV

Crowning the heights above Austin is Stokes Castle.  Anson  Phelps Stokes, The Elder, was an industrialist and entrpreneur in the late-19th Century.  He built the edifice as a summer “tower”, but only actually used it for two months, in 1897.  After that, the Stokes family abandoned the place.  Austin’s citizens have fenced the structure off, and it is indeed unsafe to enter.  It remains, though, as a testament to the town’s glory days.

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Stokes Castle, Austin, NV

An hour or so east of Austin lies Eureka, where people smiled, flashed peace signs and seemed quite relaxed, as their work day was coming to an end.

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Eureka Opera House, Eureka, NV

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Eureka County Courthouse, Eureka, NV

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A westward look down Main Street, Eureka, NV

I had miles to go, before I slept, so on east it was, to Ely, NV, a more contemporarily- built, commercial hub, at the end of the “Loneliest Road”.  I had dinner at the aforementioned Silver State Restaurant, then gave my camera a rest- until I came to the White Pine Range.  These mountains are named for the light-coloured wood of the local evergreens.

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White Pine forest, south of Ely, NV

Wheeler Peak, not to be confused with the mountain of the same name that is New Mexico’s highest peak, is the crown of the White Pines, and second only to Boundary Peak, (in western Nevada), in terms of high points in the state.

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Wheeler Peak, White Pine Range, south of Ely, NV

Thus, as you can see, loneliness is a definite state of mind.

NEXT UP:  Pioche, Panaca and the amazement of Cathedral Gorge

 

 

 

 

 

 

Extended Family, Reno & Carson, Days 3 &4: Tides of Transition

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May 31-June 1, 2016, Carson City- 

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Sundial, Carson City

We spent the past two days intermittently going through boxes, tending to errands in Reno, watching days 2 &3 of the new version of “Roots” and enjoying a fantastic barbecue, at the Sandoval residence.  Above is Veronica’s sundial, which keeps watch over her little swimming pool.  Uncle Gary, of course, had to get splashed, show her how to toss water at the far fence and discuss the meaning of an episode of “My Little Ponies”- which does have more intellectual fiber, for the minds of 3-5 year-olds, than we older ones might think.

Tuesday was busy, but peaceful here, roiling back at home base (Prescott) and generally a day that brought some enjoyment (see below), but which I was glad to see over. By bedtime on Wednesday, though, all was calm again.

We had a pleasant lunch at Mel’s Diner, in Reno, served by one of the most effervescent young women I have ever met.  Diner food is one of my guilty pleasures, anyway, so it didn’t take much to get me to agree to stop there, after Michele’s walk-through at her old apartment.

On the way back to Carson, we drove through Washoe Lake State Park, between Reno and Carson City.  The serenity of this place is reminiscent of several similar places in the Prescott area.

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Bridge along Hwy. 395, Washoe Valley, NV.  Mt. Rose is in background.

The bridge over Washoe Valley is remarkable for its length.  Mount Rose calls out to be hiked, but that is an item for another year’s agenda.  The Valley itself is stunning, as a place to unwind for many, and as a redoubt for the well-to-do.

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Deer, resting near irrigation sprinkler, Washoe Valley, NV

A herd of deer were roaming near this irrigation pipe, an excellent way to beat the mid-day heat.

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Beagle Rock, Washoe Lake State Park, NV

This rock was painted, by person or persons unknown, about ten years ago.

The crowning event of the day was Veronica’s tae-kwon-do session.  Watch out, world!

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Veronica gets ready to chop.

Watching my little angels grow has been a joy, for thirty six years and counting.  I thank the Lord this will be ongoing.  The session took me back to the late ’90’s, when my son was learning this martial art form.

The time here was capped with the above-mentioned barbecue.  The Sandovals pulled out all the stops, and presented us with everything from the usual hot dogs and burgers to carne asada and grilled pineapple.  Freshly baked  pan dulce capped the meal.  It was one of those “No more food for a month” affairs, which is what happens, in a loving environment.

Now, it’s time to head on down  to the next important event:  A 35th Anniversary Reunion of those who opened the Native American Baha’i Institute, in Burntwater, Arizona.

NEXT UP:  The highway that was once “America’s loneliest”.

 

Prescott Circle Trail, Segment 1, Part 2: Trail’s End

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May 22, 2016, Prescott- There are lots of challenges left in the world, for those who think it’s all been done by others.  I know that, no matter where I go, there will be someone who’s already “done” the trip, gone along the trail, gone up the mountain, forded the river, negotiated the canyon.  I’m happy for them, and hope that many will follow after us.  The world is for learning and for appreciating.

In twelve section hikes, I have explored the entire unpaved course of Prescott Circle Trail.  Ten segments, spanning 53 miles, separated only by a 1.8 mile gap of neighbourhood and ranch, offer a variety of terrain and ecosystems:  Pinon juniper forest, manmade lakes, grassland, highway underpasses, scrub oak forest, tall pines and, always, granite or shale badlands and Dells.

I started this effort last autumn, with a  view towards getting a holistic sense of my adopted home base and the condition of its natural environment.  This afternoon, the final section of trail presented itself:  A loop, starting and ending on the side of Granite Basin Road, a bit south of Cayuse Day Use Area, an equine staging area.

Hence, the photos:

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Two days of steady rain, this past week, have brought the fireweed into a healthy state of being.  I took a brief walk to an area I explored last week, to see how they were doing.

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Once up on the Ho-Kay-Gan Trail, the settled homes of Williamson Valley’s horse lovers come into view.

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As is often the case, the stone watchmen are on the job.

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A rock that resembled an ancient sage sits with its back to the trail.

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I like finding hills that resemble pyramids.  Ho-Kay-Gan is a steep little mountain, and the trail skirts its slope, with a sharp descent into Alfano Gorge.

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Here is a view of Alfano Gorge, headed upstream.  This part of Williamson Valley resembles Pioneer Park, not surprising, given that the two are  a scant two miles apart.

Above, is Ho-Kay-Gan Trailhead.

A nice party of three hikers, who had passed me, while completing their own loop hike, graciously took this keepsake.

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Ho-Kay-Gan Trailhead

So, my first completion of a long-distance trail system is now complete, at least the unpaved portion.  I will walk the gap, from Katahn Drive to Pioneer Parkway, for the sake of integrity, early next month.  Then, too, completing Black Canyon National Recreation Trail by the end of 2016 is also a goal.

Prescott Circle Trail, Segment 1, Part 1: In Granite Basin

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May 19, 2016, Prescott- This is a different sort of Throwback Thursday.  Last Sunday’s hike took place, in between two social gatherings.  It’s important, somehow, that I complete Prescott Circle Trail, before summer starts.  So, May 15’s sumptuous afternoon found me hiking from Iron Springs Road to just above Granite Basin Road, a distance of 3 miles each way.

I began by crossing the first fairly busy roadway, Iron Springs Road, then down a mildly steep path, across Willow Creek’s relatively benign gorge, and along an easy trail to the overlook for Granite Basin, one of the most majestic places in Yavapai County.

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South trailhead, Prescott Circle Trail, Segment 1, near Iron Springs Road

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Granite Mountain, peaking over the south ridge of Granite Basin

Granite Mountain lords it over this area, as it does, by extension, over the cities of Prescott, to the south, and Chino Valley, to the north.

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Thumb Butte, to the south, isn’t about to be ignored.

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As always in the Southwest, boulders are a huge presence in Granite Basin.

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This resembles an ancient philosopher king, from some city-state in the Mediterranean region.

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Granite Mountain comes into clearer focus, at the edge of the Basin.

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The Basin itself has been the source of hours of pleasurable exploration for me, in the past few years.

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The sweep of Granite Basin, leading to the great mountain.

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The summit of Granite Mountain, through the afternoon haze.

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An old friend, “Mini Sphinx”, about a mile along Willow Trail, my diversion for the early evening, before hiking back to Iron Springs.

Lastly, here are a couple of  flower-gems, so that the little beings are not overlooked.

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Fireweed flowers punctuate the sandy brushland.

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Desert Dandelion are found, closer to the Basin rim.

This area has been an old comfort to me, both when I first came here, in April, 2011, and at various points along the Grief Road.  That it is the near ending of a 55-mile circle around my adopted home base seems most appropriate.  In a few days, I will complete Segment One, from Willow Trail to Williamson Valley Road.  Summer looks to be soothing, followed by a return to a secure work environment.

In Utmost Isolation

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April 30, 2016, Black Canyon-  This is a few days late getting to print, but here is what happened today. I started out in mid-morning, stopping in for breakfast at Flour Stone Bakery, a lovely little spot in the old mining town of Mayer, some 30 miles southeast of Prescott.  It has authentic challah, and finely baked rye and other loaves of bread.  I am inclined to stop here on future forays along Black Canyon National Recreation Trail, which I started walking, in segments, about 15 months ago- just north of Mayer.

Here is Flour Stone Bakery, inside and out.

It seemed that the entirety of western Yavapai County, from Prescott to Mayer, was hopping, with one form of mass entertainment or another- Bicycle Marathon, Antique Car Show and, here, just plain Antique Shows.

I needed to get back into the wilderness, though, at least for several hours.  So, on to Black Canyon it was.

The segment I hiked today extended from Black Canyon City’s trailhead to Cottonwood Gulch, about 6 miles one way.  It is roughly 3/8 of the Black Canyon-Table Mesa Road section of this amazing high desert system.  In a nutshell, that means I have hiked a bit more than half of the entire trail (44 of 81 miles), over the past 15 months. Manageable segments work well for me, in this regard.

Here are a few scenes from along the trail, which alternates between hugging the Agua Fria and exploring the rugged hills and mesas, west of the river.

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Here is a view of Horseshoe Bend, about two miles south west of the trailhead.  A family was enjoying the water of Agua Fria, at this serene spot. They were among the few people I encountered this afternoon.  Six bicyclists, here and there, rounded out the “companionship”.  Mostly, though, it was the desert and me, alone.  Plants, though, were quite prolific.

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Flowering barrel cactus, Black Canyon

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Emerging cholla, in basalt field

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Mr. Sandstone

He didn’t bring me a dream, but his presence was oddly reassuring, in the quiet of the afternoon.

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Hilltop bench, Cheapshot Mine region

I chose this little redoubt, atop Cheapshot Hill, to rest and write a bit in my journal. After a brief interlude here, I kept on going to Cottonwood Gulch, just shy of an intriguing Thumb Butte-like mesa, whose name escapes me.  I will check that one out on my next segment hike, from Table Mesa Road, probably next Fall.  Here is where I chose to turn around.

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This bush reminded me a bit of mimosa, though I know it is something different- just don’t know its name.  It looks like a four-wing saltbush, but the flowers resemble those of saltcedar.

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Desert lily, Cottonwood Gulch

Well, those last two gave me a reason to pick up a wildflower book, which was actually part of a map of Death Valley, of all places.

This trail was certainly the most isolated I’ve experienced since Seven Falls, northeast of Tucson, and it was every bit as satisfying a challenge- 12 miles in a day.

.Upon returning to community life, a poetry reading and a lively jazz-funk concert rounded out this last day of April.

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Heart-shaped Prickly Pear colony

 

Prescott Circle Trail, Segment 2: Thumb Butte Road to Iron Springs

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April 24, 2016, Prescott- Today was another picture perfect day, with less wind than yesterday.  Thus, it was the right time to hike the 8-mile round trip, from one iconic landmark (Thumb Butte) to the near approaches of another(Granite Mountain).

Actually, I reversed the order, as Iron Springs’ parking lot is spacious and well off-road.  I was met by a couple who were on a short bicycle ride.  They went as far as the Fireplace Ruin, a distance of 1.8 miles.  That segment of trail follows an abandoned rail bed, the route of which once connected the mining camps of Iron Springs with downtown Prescott.  With those camps long closed, the route evolved into a Rails-to-Trails path.  There are several fine views, to the east, from the trail.

The left photo shows the Bradshaw Mountains, while the right-hand view is of two adjoining subdivisions, to the east. Below left, is a view of Badger Peak, five miles to the southeast.

The above right scene shows some of the rock that was cut away, to push the rail bed through.  Below it, new growth has helped in recovery from the Indian Fire, of 2002, but the area was hit again, in 2013, by the Doce Fire.

The dryness of our region concerns me, and we are doing all possible to avoid another serious fire season. This section of trail seemed drier than the last two, with sandy soil along much of the route.

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This pump house is situated to help, in the event of another fire.

Another 1/4 mile ahead, the ruins of an old mining cabin attest to the ravages of fire.  The only thing left standing is the fireplace!

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Fireplace Ruin, Javelina Trail, Prescott

Granite boulders signal the turn-off from the abandoned rail bed, and Javelina Trail heads around a couple of small foothills of the Sierra Prieta.

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Granite boulder field, Javelina Trail

Willow Creek’s South Fork is the only running water along the trail, and it was not running today.

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South Fork, Willow Creek

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Looking vaguely like a moai head.

This boulder reminded me,obliquely, of a moai, from Easter Island.

Once I hiked over and above the drainage area of Willow Creek, Thumb Butte could be seen to the southeast.

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Northwestern view of Thumb Butte.

Arizona woodpeckers are active here, as elsewhere along Prescott Circle Trail. As I learned last summer, in the Whatcom Museum, Bellingham, WA, these birds share nests with a variety of other creatures.

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Arizona Woodpecker nests, Javelina Trail

So I have explored another segment of our area’s comprehensive trail system.  One segment remains- the area between Iron Springs and Williamson Valley Road, a distance of 5 miles each way.  I will see whether the effects of the 2013 Doce Fire are as telling there, as they are, in patches, here.

Prescott Circle, Segment 3: Copper Basin to Thumb Butte Road

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April 9, 2016, Prescott- My companions today were about a dozen bicyclists, a few lone hikers, three herds of deer and birds-lots of them.  A wild turkey, or two, could be heard gobbling in the woods above Manzanita Creek- about a mile from Copper Basin Road.

With my Saturday afternoon appointment canceled, due to illness, and with a break in the storms, the trail called-loudly.  Who am I to turn down Mother Nature?

Choosing to use paved Thumb Butte Road, and one of its turnouts, as a safe place for my car, I opted to start the hike at the end point, and do the entire 10-mile round trip in an afternoon.  The jaunt took 4 1/2 hours.

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Miller Creek, near Thumb Butte Road

There are several creeks, coming off the Sierra Prieta, in this section of trail. Miller Creek is the northernmost, followed, north to south, by Butte, Aspen and Manzanita- which has the nicest little canyon in the area.

As I made my way up Porter Mountain’s northeast peak, also called Williams Peak, it was telling, just how severe the Indian Fire of 2002 was to this area, itself so close to the Granite Basin, which was later to be ravaged by 2013’s Dolce Fire.  These collective memories, compounded by the dire tragedy of Yarnell Hill (which followed Dolce by two weeks), make us here in Prescott that much more grateful for this morning’s rain- and that which is expected to follow, this coming week.

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Cloud, reaching up from base cirrus.

As if offering confirmation of my thoughts, a cirrus finger reached up from its base cloud, towards other clouds above.

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Granite Mountain, from Williams Peak

Williams Peak offers a fine vantage point for the majesty of Granite Mountain.

A pair of Arizona Woodpeckers hung around, while I was admiring the scenery, so I obliged them with a portrait.

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“Stormtrooper” Rock, Butte Creek Valley

As I headed into the Butte Creek watershed, I was watched by a Storm Trooper.

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Butte Creek Road, atop Williams Peak, Porter Mountain

The trail follows Butte Creek Road, along the flat ridge of Williams Peak, until one reaches the area known as “Hilltop”, where three trails converge.

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Thumb Butte, from Williams Peak

A clearing on Butte Creek Road afforded the best view of Thumb Butte, from the west.  It is two miles northeastward, from here.

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Butte Creek

Crossing Butte Creek, one heads into slightly more heavily forested, and somewhat more rugged, terrain.

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South Ridge, Williams Peak

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Manzanita Creek Canyon, near Dugan Camp, Copper Basin

Manzanita Creek Canyon is on my list of “picnic hike” spots, during the second half of June.  Dugan Camp, about a half mile southwest, is still an active resting place for trailer campers.

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Apparent ruin of miner’s cabin, south of Manzanita Creek

This area has been popular with campers and miners alike, especially during the heyday of Copper Basin, in the early 20th Century.

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Heart-shaped granite, near Copper Basin Road

There was another confirmation, waiting for me, close to the turnaround point, near Copper Basin Road.

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Stump, from 2002 Indian Fire

This stump stands as a silent sentinel, to warn humans of the lasting effects of careless camping and shooting.

Finally, in the spirit of Asian artists who leave a flaw in each of their works, here is a scene of one of the three herds of deer, who crossed my path on the hike back to Thumb Butte Road.

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Deer, the best wild animals for selfie poses.

On Quartz Mountain

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April 9, 2016, Prescott- Last Sunday, I threw in a 1-mile round trip side trail, to my Prescott Circle jaunt.  Quartz Mountain is a unique promontory, in the mostly pine-clad, dry-soil terrain that is prominent in the western half of Prescott Circle.  It appears to be the remnant of a volcano, which also makes sense, given that quartz is scattered from White Spar to an area just west of Thumb Butte.

I had the brief company of two men and three children, who had been atop the mountain for an hour or so, studying the quartz and learning of the different colour blends.  Most, as you will see, are white quartz, though there is a fair amount of pink, and some two-tone.

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East side of Quartz Mountain

I checked out this area, just below the summit, before heading up.

The views from any point near the summit are thrilling.

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San Francisco Peaks, from Quartz Mountain

Now, here are several scenes of the summit.

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Iron-tinged white and gray quartz, Quartz Mountain summit

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Southwestward, from Quartz Mountain, towards Sierra Prieta

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View of Quartz Mountain summit crest, from just underneath

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Agave and prickly pear cacti, Quartz Mountain summit

As you can see, the desert aspects of Prescott’s status as a transition zone are quite prolific, even at 6,000 feet.

This little gem is one of several good reasons for side hikes, off the main Circle Trail system.

As it happened, today (April 9), was a good day for Segment 3 of the Circle.  It’ll be featured in the next post.

Prescott Circle Trail, Segment 4: White Spar to Copper Basin, Part 2

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April 6, 2016, Prescott-  While we were living in Phoenix, in 2002, news came of a horrific wildfire, that was bearing down on Prescott:  The Indian Fire.  It could easily have swept through Thumb Butte and down Copper Basin, slamming full force into downtown Prescott.  That didn’t happen, thanks to the Forest Service, and the fates of Nature.  As it was, though, the Indian Fire seared a large area between White Spar and Copper Basin, leaving several square miles of sticks in its wake.

On Sunday afternoon, I walked in some of the same areas affected by the Indian Fire. Wolverton Mountain rises above the trail, though no family named Clowers lives there. Quartz Mountain is reached by a side trail, about 1/2 mile south of Wolverton.  Both peaks were singed in 2002.

I began at the Copper Basin end of the segment, starting out on the Aspen Creek Trail.  The creek comes down, from the western base of Wolverton Mountain, and flows down towards Granite Creek and downtown Prescott.  The creek is barely flowing, and indeed, the ground in this area is badly in need of a soaking.

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Trailhead, Aspen Creek Trail

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Gray granite, Aspen Creek Trail

I came soon enough to the upper reach of Aspen Creek Canyon.

As the sun was getting a bit lower, I came to the junction with Wolverton Mountain Trail and Quartz Mountain side trail.  Walking along the Wolverton, I had several fine views of the high ridge of the Sierra Prieta Range, of which these peaks are an eastern offshoot.

A glimpse of Wolverton Mountain’s practical use was visible from the trail, though the summit itself will be the focus of a future hike.

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Summit of Wolverton Mountain, from trail.

Shortly after passing Wolverton’s eastern edge, I came to Quartz Mountain Trail.  This unique promontory will be the topic of the next post.

Prescott Circle Trail, Segment 4:White Spar to Copper Basin- Part I

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April 5, 2016, Prescott- This past weekend, I was able to break this 6-mile section of juniper pine forest, quartz and gray granite into two hikes.  It was prudent, due to a commitment here in town, each day.  It also gave me more time to focus on the features of each part of the segment.

Saturday’s jaunt began at White Spar North Trailhead, going 3.5 miles to the junction with Quartz Mountain Trail. The entire segment is Wolverton Mountain Trail, about which more later.

Above, are three scenes at the south end of the trail.  Even this close to White Spar, there are many small fragments of pink quartz.  The trail is rather flat, for the first 2 miles or so, until past this magnificent view of a local observatory, privately-run, and of the majestic San Francisco Peaks, seventy miles northeast, as the hawk flies.  The Granite Dells may be seen, holistically, in the midground.

The East Peak of Quartz Mountain, seen in the next two frames, signals a slightly more rugged terrain.

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East Peak, Quartz Mountain

I noticed small wonders along the way, as well, including this white quartz(below) and the upper jaw bone of a hapless raccoon, which I have left out of this gallery.

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White quartz, at foot of East Peak, Quartz Mountain

This area was filled with blooming manzanita, another special treat.

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Manzanita in bloom, near Quartz Mountain

The stopping point gave me incentive for a Sunday completion of the segment, starting then from Aspen Creek Trailhead, off Copper Basin Road.  As this was done after a Sunday brunch, I was grateful for a somewhat more strenuous trail.

Here is the junction with Quartz Mountain Trail.

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Stopping place for hike on 4/2/2016