The Road to 65, Mile 37: Visions of Mars

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January 4, 2015, Valley of Fire, NV- I checked my social media messages this morning, and found a post which compared the temperature on Mars with that in Minnesota. Mars was reportedly warmer today.

I was reminded of our nearest planetary neighbour, once on the trails at Valley of Fire State Park, between Moapa and Overton, NV, northeast of Las Vegas. As you will see further on in this post, red soil abounds there.

I started the day with a hearty breakfast at Comfort Inn, joined by a family who were driving to Colorado, from San Francisco. They will have clear weather for their return, which is gratifying. After tooling around Vegas,unsuccessfully, in search of a Wells-Fargo branch, I just bit the bullet, paid the ATM fees and headed up I-15 to Moapa and the park.

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I shortly came upon the reason for the park’s name.

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The Beehives are well-named, in more ways than one.

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 Balancing Rock, near the Visitor Center, reminded me of a similar formation at Garden of the Gods, in Colorado Springs.

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The otherworldiness of the Southwest is in full voice, in Mouse’s Tank, so-named for an outlaw who hid out in this canyon.  The westernmost Ancient Puebloans also settled here, in the 800’s.SAM_3641 SAM_3657 SAM_3660 

The Tank itself was empty today.SAM_3667

 Life in the Mohave Desert is always a balancing act.SAM_3670

 I came next upon Rainbow Vista, so named for the striated Aztec sandstone found there.SAM_3684

The trail goes through a narrow, rough wash, to end with a gaze upon Fire Canyon.

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The apex of the journey into Valley of Fire was at White Domes, a mass of limestone and gypsum.SAM_3698 SAM_3699 

Several distance hikers were in this area today. Someday, I will be back and share their experience. On the way back towards the Visitor Center, I caught a few glimpses of the blend of colours.

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Seven Sisters, a sandstone formation just south of the Visitor Center, is a popular picnic spot.SAM_3720

Near the East Entrance to the park, a memorial is set up to honour Sergeant John Clark, who perished here in 1915, while en route from Bakersfield to Salt Lake City.SAM_3731 

Lake Mead National Recreation Area abuts Valley of Fire, to the southeast. Its terrain has less of the Aztec sandstone and more limestone and gypsum.SAM_3740 

The lake may be down, but it’s far from out. The scenery is still inspiring, especially around sunset. I enjoyed several stops along the North Shore.

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Sunset hit its true magnificence as I came upon White Hills, AZ, and Rosie’s Den Cafe.

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Rosie’s is another amazing serendipitous find. A homey, relaxing spot, with well-prepared food and engaging waitresses, it’s perfectly positioned between Hoover Dam and Kingman. A plus is that one of the waitresses is also a baker. Tracey’s no-sugar added cherry pie hits the sweet spot, of the palate, that is.

One caution, being in a rural community:

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JK. White Hills has a competent volunteer fire service. The stuff of holidays was still well in evidence.

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Rosie’s is definitely cracklin’.

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The Road to 65, Mile 36: Glitter, Followed by Reality

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January 3, 2015, Las Vegas- Tomorrow morning, a couple of “reality stars” will reunite, sort of, in a Federal prison. They will leave four young girls behind, and all because money mattered more than it should have. Money is a tool, a means to an end, and nothing more. Love, especially the love of a child, is beyond all measure, in its value to human life. At the very same time, a seven-year-old girl will live the rest of her life without her parents and older sister. She was saved by God’s grace- towards what end is known only to the Universe, and found her way to the home of a good man, and a caring community.

We often seek the quick fix, in the rush to a “good life”. This is the allure of glitter, though Mankind has known, deep down, since the days of Croesus, and of Solomon, that gilt is seldom golden. Flamboyance, a smooth tongue, glamour have their place in this world, and often that place is to serve as a red flag to the beholder. In the end, they matter not one whit. Good people suffer, as do the not-so-good. “Bad” people appear to prosper, as do some of those who live the Life. We each have our purpose, and all-in-all that purpose is to know and serve the Creator, the Life Force. We are each contributing to the Whole.

I drove up to Las Vegas today, stopping first in the little town of Ash Fork, AZ, at the junction of US Hwy 89 and I-40. The waitress in the small cafe appeared to be undergoing a serious amount of stress, but was keeping a fair focus on her work, and a brave face. Mentally, I found myself in thought-hug mode. As a stranger towards another man’s wife, though, what was mental did not become physical- except she got a bigger tip and “have a better day”.

I took a room at Comfort Inn, a ways north of the Strip, which I don’t frequent, being a non-gambler. I have enjoyed the shows and the exhibits at a couple of Steve Wynn’s properties, in times past. My purpose this time was to visit some friends, who turned out to be busy, and to spend some time in the Valley of Fire, which looked fascinating, from I-15, when Penny and I drove through to St. George, from California, so many years ago. Las Vegas has a burger shop, Farmer Boys, part of a chain that seems to be rooted in Southern California, as many chains are. The difference is that the ingredients are guaranteed fresh, hormone-free meat and organic vegetables. There is a genuine sense of warmth and graciousness about the staff. This is the reality that will bring about stability and success. It was a soothing meal, which I can’t always say, with respect to a hamburger.

Tomorrow, then, will feature the grandeur of nature, followed by a return to the reality which I have come to treasure. Work that is based on service is always that way.

The Road to 65, Mile 34: Within the Realm of Possibility

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January 1, 2015, Prescott- Bet you thought I’d never catch up. Well, the Moveable Feast that was 2014 is a springboar to endless possibilities, this year. I said farewell to  several friends, family and admired public figures:  Norman Fellman, Richard Keffer, Bill Warden, Steve Archambault,Brooke Bohner, Dane Mc Donald, Ginny Stobie, Helen Fellman, Howard and June Moxham,Bob Wittmann, Mardy Taylor, Norman Hansen, Mary Chrisos, Jack Harper and a few of whom you may have heard:  Pete Seeger, Eli Wallach, Robin Williams, Lauren Bacall, Edward Herrmann, Joe Cocker, Luise Rainer, Bob Hoskins, Christine Cavanaugh, Phil Everly, Dave Madden, Jack Bruce, Ann B. Davis, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Shirley Temple, Johnny Winter, Mickey Rooney, Sid Caesar, Paul Revere, Maya Angelou, Ruby Dee, Ralph Waite, Mike Nichols, Joan Rivers.

They have each moved on, and are in the Gallery, cheering us on, as we navigate the challenges before us. My path forward, this year, will soon come to a fork in the road. One turn would take me to a full-time position with a non-profit. Then, my free-lance travel will be limited, but I will be constantly on the road, making sure Disaster-Preparedness programs are in place, throughout northwestern Arizona, and that volunteers are receiving training, and are feeling appreciated.

The other turn would lead me to work as a substitute teacher in more schools than I am, at present. It would also continue my going to such places as I sense the Universe wants me to go. The one constant, on both paths, will be my using, and educating people on, essential oils. These have made a significant difference in my life and in my health.

So, stay tuned. 2015 will be another tumultuous ride. It started slowly today, with a few errands and a young friend’s birthday. Tomorrow, I visit and hike with my son, in the Phoenix area, and head up to Las Vegas, for a visit with friends and to Valley of Fire, on Saturday & Sunday. Then, it’ll be time to get serious again.

The Road to 65, Mile 33, Part II: The Gate Stayed Open

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December 31, 2014, Prescott- When I returned to North America, on 6/29/14, I had the pleasure of a long and varied conversation with a fascinating young lady from Montreal, who is a baker by trade. The flight back was thus energizing, rather than draining.

July-I spent the first week of July visiting family in the Boston area. My brother, SIL and I took in a Red Sox game on July 2, which was as marvelous an experience as the team itself was awful, in its play. Fenway Park and the surrounding area are old enough to be somewhat a cross, to me, between old Europe and the modern U.S. Our fireworks, two days later, were rained out, but some local youths tried anyway- so we had some sky colours. Going back to Phoenix was an experience. I ended up staying overnight in Charlotte, as the plane out of Boston was delayed for six hours, due to some problem in Miami, of all places. At least this way, I didn’t get to Phoenix at 1:30 A.M., so the Universe was looking out for me, in an oblique way.

August- The interment of my father-in-law’s remains, in Arlington National Cemetery, brought me back to the East Coast, at the beginning of the month, for four days. This was the least a grateful nation could do for him. I also visited several war-related places on the National Mall, and the 9/11 Memorial west of the Pentagon.

In a rustic camp, west of Prescott, a group of us formed a well-running team, serving Slow Food Prescott’s 50-Mile Dinner,consisting entirely of ingredients from within a fifty-mile radius of our town.

September- In the middle of the month, I drove from Prescott to Salt Lake City, for an annual convention. Staying in a cheap, Baha’i-owned motel and scrimping where I could, got me through this time, and still I got a lot out of the convention itself. Driving all the way back home, in one fell swoop, though, is probably something I would prefer to avoid in the future.

October- There is very little I won’t do for my son, the only responsibility I really still have, outside of self-care. When he called, in July, and said I was on the list to take part in the ship’s return cruise, from Honolulu to San Diego, I got the paper work done, made flight arrangements to Honolulu, and enjoyed 1 1/2 days in that exquisite city. Waikiki, Iolani Palace and Pearl Harbor were each every bit as fascinating as others had said. The cruise itself was 6 1/2 days, and I learned much about day-to-day shipboard life and about the many hues of blue and aquamarine that are visible from the deck. After a short few days in San Diego and Crystal Cove State Beach, I drove home, exhausted and just wanting to be in Prescott again.

November- The month was quiet, until  Thanksgiving weekend. I went back to San Diego, enjoyed the holiday with Aram and a friend, in Julian, and celebrated my 64th, in low-key fashion, visiting La Jolla and enjoying a Korean lunch.

December- Western New Mexico was where Penny and I first met, 34 years ago, in the Pueblo of Zuni. I had a salubrious visit to some of our old favourite spots: El Morro National Monument, with ancient Puebloan ruins and petroglyphs/inscriptions of several time periods and Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, with its myriad sandhill cranes and raptors. The town of Truth or Consequences, named for a 1940’s and ’50’s radio/TV show, was a lovely revelation. Its Old Town, centered around the original hot springs resorts, kept me fascinated to the point where my original plan, of visiting the Gila Cliff Dwellings, was put off until another date. Paying respects to the Apache chief Cochise was accomplished, as was Christmas Eve and Day with some friends who had moved to the Tucson area, from Oklahoma. The 30th annual Grand Canyon Baha’i Conference was a fitting end to this most filling of years. We got eight inches of snow, on New Year’s Eve. I rang in the new, by watching Prescott’s midnight fireworks, from my front porch.

The Road to 65, Mile 33: The Gate Swings Backwards, and Then……

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December 31, 2014, Prescott- I woke up around 6:30, on New Year’s morning, 2014, and knew that this would be the year I would hop on board a plane and head over to Europe. Exactly where, and for how long, remained subject to the vagaries of substitute teaching and my investment income. All year long, though, things that were meant to happen did, and other things had to be consigned to a later time.

January- The Boot dropped, on Whiskey Row, right at 12 Midnight, as I sipped the hot chocolate I had bought, fifteen minutes earlier in Devil’s Pantry. The rest of the month brought lots of hiking: Tucson’s Bear Canyon and Seven Falls, the depths of Kartchner Caverns,Casa Grande Ruins, Cave Creek’s Go John Trail, the northern portion of Black Canyon National Recreation Trail, a march through downtown Prescott on Martin Luther King, Jr. Day. It was a rather dry month.

February- I started the month by presiding over the Four Chaplains Commemorative ceremony, at our Legion post, went most of the way up Harquahala Peak, visited Desert Rose Baha’i Institute, studied my Faith a lot, and prepared for the sale of the house where I had lived for the past 2 1/2 years. We said goodbye to the unofficial “greeter” of Willow Creek Gardens.

March- Three years had passed since beloved Penny left her pain behind. I moved. Then, I went on an errand of mercy and tribute, to Denver-in a U-Haul, and made it safely through the blizzard that greeted me, just north of Pueblo. It was a fabulous little impromptu community, first at Walsenburg, then at Colorado City, which made things a whole lot easier. We who had to negotiate the snow, stuck together. On the Ides of March, I learned about a Loyalty Rewards Program; how ironic. The next day, we Legionnaires paid homage to those who left us since last March. We refer to the departed members as ” Post Everlasting”. Aram headed out on deployment, for seven months, on the last day of Winter. I saw him and the ship off, then joined other Baha’is, in San Clemente, for Naw-Ruz, the Baha’i New Year. Blue Herons and Egrets were plentiful at Dana Point and on Doheny Beach. History abounded in San Gabriel and Redlands. An International Dinner ended the month, at home.

April- My little apartment began to feel homey. I did not stray far, this month. The next several will be peripatetic enough. Prescott held the photo session for its Sesquicentennial. I would miss the real deal, on June 30, but one can’t be everywhere. Affairs of Faith dominated, as they do every April, on the Commemoration of the Declaration of Baha’u’llah, as to His mission. We call it the Festival of Ridvan, after its venue. It lasts twelve days, April 21-May 2.

May- My father-in-law, Norman Fellman, had been getting progressively weaker. He passed away, on May 7, at the age of 90. Few affected my life in so powerful a way. Pop held the bar high, but he’d occasionally help us over it, either with encouraging words, or his left foot- whichever he thought best for the situation. Mother’s Day was surreal- a silent breakfast with my heart-broken MIL, followed by the flight back to Phoenix. I would come back, three weeks later, to catch a flight to Frankfurt, Germany. In the meantime, more heartache struck. A little Baha’i child drowned, and a large gathering honoured his life, in the western suburbs of Phoenix. The month ended with my landing in Frankfurt, and getting a good day’s rest at the Q-Green Hotel.

June- This was a dizzying, dazzling and endearing month: Paris, with Tuilleries, Louvre, Tour d’Eiffel, Hotel Monte Carlo,Versailles- both palace and town, the residence of ‘Abdu’l-Baha during His 1911 visit to Paris, Montmartre, and Champs Elysees, the Roma along the Seine and the various refugees in the Metro;

Rouen, home of my paternal ancestors, prison cell and execution place of Jeanne d’Arc, Hotel Morand,Vieux Marche, my first glimpse of a great cathedral, Roman fortifications, hungry swans in a pond behind a church, Feast with local Baha’is, Palais de Justice;

Utah Beach, and the 70th Anniversary of D-Day, tanks on the beach, hordes in the village square of St. Marie-de-Mont and a couple of roundabout taxi rides;

Mont St. Michel, every bit as inspiring and cacophanous as I’d been told, a place of legends;

Rennes, capital of Brittany, more remparts, the great House of Brittany’s Parliament, more grand churches and forts, Hotel Grande Bretagne, a sad and lonely teenager, sobbing for her friends, engaging street people;

Vannes, great showcase of Breton culture, fascinating walks in the hills above town and along the quay, a large duck pond-off the beaten track, and cuisine lovingly prepared and served by Madame Virginie, side trip to magnificent Carnac;

Brest, the American Memorial, Le Chateau de Brest, “Speak Breton, forget French!”, the exasperated Cyber cafe proprietress, the helpful hotelier, leaping onto the early train back to Rennes;

Amiens, the canals, the great botanic gardens, bright nights, Jules Verne’s memorial, the helpful student, Restaurant Kathmandu, the Peace Church, the great cathedral, no one there named M. Foucault;

Lille, Hotel Balladins, the Cyber Laundry, the grand Arts Palace, one of the biggest City Halls ever, Paris Gate and Tournais Gate;

Bruges, a welter of medieval streets, Historium, first time dipping French fries into mayonnaise, flinty-eyed Flemish householders;

Ghent, officious train conductor (reminded me of Anthony Perkins, playing Inspector Javert), lovely Hotel Sint Pieters, more canals, saucy but adorable Flemish schoolgirls, Gravensteen, the Old Butcher’s Market, Turkish emigres in the New Quarter, interplay between hills and riverfront;

Brussels, chaotic, graffiti-ridden, bilingual, snarky coffee house baristas, inquisitive German schoolkinder, World Cup Victory Gathering at the Bourse, Hotel George V, vibrant Algerian neighbourhood, sweet-natured Italian couple and their Pizzeria Bella, Palais Royal, the Central Square, the Baha’i Centre near an apartment complex;

Bastogne, Batttle of the Bulge Memorial and Museum, Place McAuliffe, Hotel Leo, the train car as restaurant, vibrant teens at a music festival, happy young family at dinner, tough British motorcyclists with hearts of gold, the helpful drunkard at the bus station, Loup Garou;

Luxembourg, astonishing fortresses of two time periods,bustling Financial District, quiet neighbourhood of the Baha’i Centre, Monument to the Martyrs of World War II, Place Guillaume II, Hotel Vauban, Dani Kohll and Felix Schaber, the Luxembourg Philharmonic Plays Disney, a Sunday brunch in a Baha’i family’s garden, a great small nation honouring its sovereign;

Metz, Residhotel, Jardin de L’Eau, teen lovers seeking solitude, people eating lunch along the river, on a busy workday, everyone out in force on a Sunday evening, boys teasing an Arab girl and getting their comeuppances, a little boy’s first encounter with ducks, the German Gate, the enchanting woods, Bellecroix, the disaffected North Africans and their high rise ghettos;

Strasbourg, modernistic train station,hipster hotel manager, venerable cathedral and chateau, spacious and vibrant central park, supremely welcoming Baha’i community (They all were, but this one especially so), interesting city tour by night;

Heidelberg, three hours wandering through University District, walk along the Neckar, Robert Bunsen,gazing upward at Heidelberg Castle, pleading housewife seeking directions;

Frankfurt– The Dom, the bustling, enjoyable Main Walk, delectable Bosnian lamb chops, the long-suffering clerk at Penthostel, the Baha’i House of Worship at Langenhain,bratwurst and friendship in a small wurst haus, a night walk around the Messe and ignoring the working girls along the route;

Gera and Berga– Resurgence in the once downtrodden East, bumbling while trying to exit a city bus, engaging drunkards in a surreal conversation, a view of the mine where Pop worked as a prisoner, standing in front of the V-1 Rocketwerks, eating frozen yogurt in a quiet section of Neu Berga, a small memorial to those held captive in the Nazi Era, the POW barracks.

Part II of this retrospective:  July-December

The Road to 65, Mile 26: Homage to a Chief, and Hail to the Heathens

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December 24, 2014, Vail, AZ- Growing up, and especially in my teens and twenties, Christmas Eve almost achieved a holiday status all its own. As a young adult, it almost became a not-so-dry run for its sister Eve, a week later. This morning, I scouted around for a breakfast place in Lordsburg. The Pilot Truck Stop store turned out to be the closest thing to such an establishment, since I swore off fast food chains, a while back. (Well, I do go in Subway, now and then, but you get the picture.) Armed with a blueberry muffin and high test coffee, I checked out of Holiday Motel and headed west.

Cochise, the famed Apache warrior chief, was a complex man. His thoughts on the state in which he found himself and his people were summed up by his observation to General Crook that the common enemy of both Apache and American was the Spaniard, who had long since disappeared from these lands, to be replaced by the Mexican, whom Cochise neither understood, nor trusted. He didn’t particularly like Crook, but he did see the General as a man of his word. The feeling was mutual.

Cochise would probably like the way in which his old redoubt, the Stronghold that bears his name, has been kept largely wild. There are horse camps and vacation cottages nearby, but the campsites that are set aside, for those who come to pay their respects to him, are primitive. Pack it in, pack it out, just as the Chiricahua people did.

I walked a short distance, from the Day Use trailhead, to the base of the Dragoons, and said quiet prayers to the Father of us all. Like Quanah Parker did, at the Sipapu in Palo Duro Canyon, nearly three years ago, Cochise communicated with me: “You are ever welcome at this place. Return, at length, when you are able, my son. For now, go in peace and harmony, and above all else, keep your word.”

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The ruggedness of Cochise Stronghold was soon replaced by the wild yapping of those whose owners call them the Heathen Hounds. Hacienda Ranch lies a fair stretch down towards the road from Vail Steak House, one of my homes away from home, when I’m down this way. The Heathens and their people came this way, from Oklahoma, about six months ago. These are hounds (chihuahuas) that like all such little critters, would gladly enjoy me as their breakfast. Bob and Tamy are of a different opinion regarding yours truly, and so I was given a fine lunch and a nice little guest room. So, I hailed the Heathens from the other room, and went off with Bob, exploring the low country, and a winding hill.

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After such a repast, the confluence of the Chihuahua and Sonoran Deserts called out pretty loudly There are no sahuaro, or yucca, in this transition zone, but everything else is here, including the javelina and coyotes.

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Bob and I went a bushwackin’ through the scrub, and found this seasonal tank. He thinks a larger one lies just to the west of this one. Maybe on a future jaunt, one or both of us will find it.SAM_3513

The scene is recorded for posterity.SAM_3514

These next scenes are from the winding road up a nearby hill.SAM_3516 SAM_3519SAM_3517 SAM_3521

In the absence of sahuaro, the ocotillo take full advantage. The dogs didn’t take advantage of me, but even if they tried, I’d have been loved to death.

This Christmas Eve was spent watching a rebroadcast of A Christmas Story 2″, which bored me to tears, and . another, of “Pearl Harbor”, which delivered the full horror of that awful day. One element of surprise, though, led to another, and as Admiral Yamamoto said, the sleeping giant had been awoken.

The Road to 65, Mile 25: Truth, Consequences and Delayed Gratification

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December 23, 2014, Lordsburg- When I was a very young child, about 4 or 5, my maternal grandmother would occasionally babysit us, so both our parents could work. Grama would sometimes have the radio broadcasting something about truth or consequences. I could barely say the second name, but I knew what truth meant, and figured consequences were some kind of lies.

In March, 1950, shortly after I would have been conceived, the game show host Ralph Edwards, celebrating ten years of his successful radio show, “Truth or Consequences”, took an idea from a couple of staff members- to name an American town after the show. The town selected was Hot Springs, New Mexico, which had the advantage of already being a prime tourist destination, due to its eponymous mineral baths and nearby Elephant Butte Lake, a man-made reservoir of the Rio Grande. On April 1, Mr. Edwards, his wife and several crew members went to Hot Springs, for the official renaming, and the City of Truth or Consequences, “TRC”, was born.

I spent Monday night and Tuesday morning, enjoying the hospitality and vibrant civic spirit of this remarkable little community. Here are some scenes from the Hot Springs Historic District and Geronimo Springs Historical Museum, Sierra County’s place of record. The painted water tower and some brightly coloured homes reminded me of Bisbee, AZ.

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The San Andres Mountains rise to the southeast.SAM_3439 

Quirky shops and eateries are scattered throughout the town.SAM_3447 

Geronimo Springs Museum is a well-ordered and delightful place in which to learn of west central New Mexico

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A display of coloured glass and ceramic greets the visitor, outside.

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So, too, does a log cabin.

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Inside the museum are many features of paleontology, anthropology, local culture and history.  I started with Pleistocene relics, a mammoth skull, and one of a mastodon.

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Going backwards in time, here is a Devonian coral.SAM_3459 

Next, are some fern fossils.

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 This is the tale of a chair, brought from the original Sierra County Courthouse, in nearby Hillsboro.  The two towns disputed which would be county seat, and the State of New Mexico ruled in favour of Hot Springs

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 The historical exhibits showed portraits of Geronimo, Don Juan de Onate, and cowboy author Eugene Rhodes. This local hero outshines them all, in my opinion.SAM_3468 

I left “TRC” a bit later than I had planned, but some serendipity is worth delayed gratification elsewhere.  I would end up putting off a visit to Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument and a walk around Silver City, but along the way to that area, I encountered several little gems.

Hillsboro, the aforementioned rival, was mostly closed up for the holidays.

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Not far up the road is Percha Creek, with a truss bridge and adjacent walkway/overlook.

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Emory Pass, at 8230 feet, is the highest point along this exquisite highway. Here, I encountered a writer from Martha’s Vineyard, who is looking to relocate to warmer climes. I gave him a few possible sites to explore, in that regard. Emory was definitely not one of them- but it is a place of splendour.

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I stopped for lunch at La Tienda del Sol, in San Lorenzo, before visiting the Mimbres Ranger Station, which confirmed my suspicions about Gila Cliff Dwellings closing at 4 PM. This delightful little place was full into the holiday spirit, as was Sunset Grill, in TRC, last night and this morning.

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I headed to Silver City, in the end, spent a short time at Fort Bayard National Cemetery, then continued down to Lordsburg. The dusty desert town has its own gems, among them the comfortable and inexpensive Holiday Motel (NOT “Inn”) and Kranberry’s Family Restaurant, open for lunch and dinner. I was treated like royalty in both places. Days like this will bring me back to this area in the Spring, and then we’ll see about Gila Cliff Dwellings and vicinity.

The Road to 65, Mile 24: A Refuge and A Fortress

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December 22, 2014, Truth or Consequences-It was a mild day, which I started with a lovely breakfast of Strawberry Pancakes and sausage patties, at Socorro’s El Camino Family Restaurant. Once again, all the regulars were present; nobody named Strawberry, though.

I set out for my first visit to Bosque del Apache (Apache Woods), since Penny and I came here in 1983. It made an impression then, and did so now. There were more sandhill cranes back then, and one of the docents gave a reason for the relative decline in their numbers. The cranes have become dependent on corn that is grown by a farmer, who is employed by the Refuge. The farmer they had, left and so, if anyone is interested in growing corn, specifically to feed birds, and be part of an upbeat crew of wildlife managers- contact Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, US Fish and Wildlife Service.

I began my drive down El Camino Real (New Mexico Highway 1), with a stop at this defunct Catholic church, in San Antonio, NM. This little village has few remaining residents,but it is still worth remembering. Each small settlement along the Royal Road was once a major stop, for those on foot or on horseback.

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I was greeted, upon my entrance into the Wildlife Refuge, by a Greater Sandhill Crane, perched on a branch. Of course, he flew off immediately as I got my camera ready to shoot. Continuing on, I walked a 3-mile loop of Chupadera National Recreational Trail. The whole trail, up Chupadera Peak and back, would’ve been 9 miles. I had more on my agenda, so that can be done another time. The cairns mark each length of the trail.SAM_3355

Watch out! The snakes and scorpions may be hibernating. Not so, the thorny bushes.SAM_3358

Out in the distance, lie the San Andres Mountains.SAM_3360 

Ann Young was an avid birder, who has since passed on. To make up for the relative lack of wintering birds this year, here is a video of one of her last visits to Bosque: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyecyGVWrto.SAM_3361

New growth is taking its place, all over Bosque del Apache.SAM_3363

From the window of the Visitor Center, one can sit for hours, just watching the various finches, wrens and hummingbirds eat their fill. Many, though, prefer the findings on the ground and in the brush.SAM_3367

Believe it or not, a bald eagle is perched in the cottonwood tree on the right.SAM_3369

Trees growing up out of the sandbars create a safe haven for aquatic life, but also are a convenient place for raptors to sit and enjoy the view.SAM_3372 

I walked this berm, around a marsh that is full, seasonally. This is not the season of its fullness, but I got a sense of what it could be. A Cooper’s hawk followed me around the loop, screeching, but never quite finding its favourite meal.SAM_3376 

Raptors, cliff swallows and barn swallows make their nests in these sandstone cliffs.SAM_3383 SAM_3386 

Here is an overlook, above the Marsh Trail.SAM_3389 

When I climbed the path, this was my view. Some say the Chihuahua Desert is more barren than the Sonoran.  Right now, I’d say they are correct.

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This is an oxbow of the Rio Grande, and trends towards dry, even when the river itself is full.SAM_3395 

As you can see in Ann Young’s video, sometimes the bed under this boardwalk is full of water.  Not today

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It is good enough for cattails, though.SAM_3400 

My spirit friend was on the job.SAM_3401 

Once back along the main flow of the Rio Grande, I spotted a Lesser Sandhill Crane, by its lonesome.SAM_3412 

From the Eagle Scout Deck, more evidence of past drynesses and flows could be seen.SAM_3415 

On my next visit to Bosque, I will focus more on the North Loop and the Canyon Trail.  It’ll also mean taking in a Fly-In, at sunset.

Continuing down El Camino Real, I came to a dirt road, which led me to Fort Craig, five miles eastward. This National Historic Site is comprised of ruins, and figures in three sorry episodes of our nation’s history: The Mexican War, which was its raison d’etre; the Civil War, during which Confederates from Texas tried to use New Mexico as a steppingstone to Colorado’s gold fields; and the Trans- Mississippi Indian Wars, which just led to more suffering and misunderstandings, on both sides. That its ruins stand at all, however, show just how formidable Fort Craig was. Walking these paths brought me back to the ramparts and walls of France, Belgium and Luxembourg. The pilings below support the earthworks, which defended the fort against the Confederate force.

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 This is what’s left of the Guard House and Jail. Prisoners were segregated by race, as were the soldiers.SAM_3418

 These are the remains of the Commanding Officer’s Quarters.SAM_3420 SAM_3421

The perimeter walls were more formidable than they look now.SAM_3425SAM_3426

 Here is the Magazine Storage, where ammunition was kept safe and dry.SAM_3431 

The Battle of Valverde, near Socorro, was a Pyrrhic victory for the Confederates. They lost so much in materiel that they were unable to capture Fort Craig and hobbled on to Albuquerque, never gaining control of New Mexico.SAM_3435 

I don’t believe I have ever cast such a long shadow. Being tired by now, my course of action was to stop in the unique town of Truth or Consequences. The story has been told by someone on my Facebook wall, but I will discuss it at length in “Mile 25.”

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The Road to 65, Mile 23, A Very Full Solstice, Part II: Passed by This Place

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December 21, 2014, Socorro- I encountered two sets of people, atop Atsinna Pueblo, on El Morro. One was a worldly, sophisticated couple, who showed mild interest in my observations, before heading off to more intriguing things. The others were grandparents and grandson, who had several questions about the nature of the settlement, and whether the Zuni were related to the Puebloans who lived in Atsinna, before the Spanish came.

These chance encounters set me to thinking; What message, in picture and word, was each person who left his/her signature on Inscription Rock, trying to convey? How has each been received by those who have seen these messages since?

Before addressing that issue further, let’s have a look at what we found yesterday, at Atsinna.

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The area that was once farmed, below, is now home to junipers and a few Ponderosa pines.

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Snow and ice have given the Headland Trail a rest for several months.

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I turned around and headed to Inscription Rock, for a new look at some old friends, from thirty-one years ago. Here some of the better examples of each period’s messages to posterity. Can you see any resemblance to Mount Rushmore, above the lichen-created heart?SAM_3308

The next three frames show the natural pool, created by runoff and preserved by an artificial dam, and the striation caused by mineral absorption.SAM_3311

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  Next, are inscriptions by Puebloan peoples, Spanish explorers, and Americans headed west.

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A pair of Cliff Swallows also leave their mark, in the form of nests, barely visible under the slight overhang

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How many signatures and petroglyphs can you discern?

I spent a few minutes driving around Zuni Pueblo, but with all shops closed on Sunday, and my own practice of not taking photos inside a Pueblo village, I leave you with this view of a nearby mesa, which is sacred to the Zuni.

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I continued on to dinner, in Magdalena and a restful sleep, in Socorro.

NEXT UP:  Mile 24- Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge and Fort Craig National Historic Site.

The Road to 65, Mile 23: A Very Full Solstice, Part 1

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December 21, 2014, El Morro, NM-I don’t think I’ve made such a big deal about the December Solstice before.  Penny and I would have chai and watch the moon rise, with a group of Phoenix- area or Prescott- area Wiccans, but since her passing, it took me until this year to include the occasion in my life, in a meaningful way. (I use the term December Solstice, because the longest day is a great celebration for the indigenous people across the Southern Hemisphere, and I tire of seeing them left out of the celebratory messages.)

Today started with a marvelous shower and gradual wakening, by 7:30 AM, in my comfortable cabin, “Deer Cabin”. I was informed that breakfast would be served from 9-12, so there was plenty of time for me to take a few winter photos and pray for many people and situations. I posted a few of these on FB, but here are some scenes of the El Morro Lodge and Ancient Way Cafe.

First, here is the interior of Deer Cabin.

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Here’s the exterior.SAM_3257

Ancient Way Cafe was founded by a spiritual mentor who is known as Red Wulf. He paid us a visit at breakfast, but stressed “I’m not here”, as he is officially on sabbatical, until April, 2015. Several other local characters also gathered for breakfast. I selected “Donald’s Breakfast”, a hearty farmer’s breakfast ,which is fitting, since Donald is a self-sufficient organic farmer. He was present this morning, at the table next to mine, along with several members of Red Wulf’s spiritual circle, Wave Riders of the Ancient Way. They’ve been here since the 1970’s, as have many counterculture groups, around the Southwest.

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SAM_3261Hanging chilis are a symbol of welcome in New Mexico, and I certainly felt welcome.  The Wave Riders did not wish to be photographed. Many of them were quite exhausted from having attended an event at a gallery across the highway, until 2 AM. Our cook was one of them but fortunately he was rested enough to do a good job.

I checked out at 10:30, and headed up the road to El Morro National Monument. The place is distinctive in three aspects: Geologically, archaeologically and graphically. I will show photos of the geological aspect first. El Morro, Spanish for “The Headland”, is made of largely striated sandstone. Wind, water and lichen are breaking the sandstone down. Many, like the NPS film’s narrator, the actor, Edward James Olmos, bemoan this process. The National Park Service is trying to shore up the ruins, as we’ll see. The big picture, though, is that nature was here first, and will fulfill her mission, one way or another. Notice that there are pinon pines, and one-seed junipers, mixed throughout the park. A smattering of Ponderosa pines have grown on top of El Morro Mesa. The trees also break down the rock, by sending out roots.

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So, you can see the majesty of the sandstone massif, plus the effects of wind, water, lichen and tree roots, on the great structure. In the next post, “Mile 23.5”, I will address the human legacy of El Morro.